Algae in the aquarium. Brown algae in the aquarium: how to fight? How to care for an aquarium at home
If you notice brown mucus on the walls of the aquarium, it's time to sound the alarm - harmful algae has started in your pond. She leaves her marks on the bottom and on the leaves of aquatic plants. If you do not fight brown algae, it will clog the reservoir very quickly, worsening the habitat for fish.
What is brown algae
Brown algae are microscopic living organisms that can exist both unicellularly and take the form of colonies. They are referred to as diatoms, which means "divided in half."
This is their structure: 2 halves of a single whole - epithecus (upper) and hypothecus (lower). All this is denounced in a single hard shell. Through its porous walls, the metabolism of brown algae occurs.
Like any protozoan, brown algae reproduce by division. When divided, the daughter cell gets a piece of the mother's shell. And these halves of the shell are able to recreate themselves, dressing both the "mother" and the "daughter" in new armor.
Since the shells are impregnated with silica, they are not able to increase in size. Because of this, each subsequent generation of diatoms is smaller than its ancestors. But they also manage to leave brown raids on any surface of the aquarium.
Among these algae there are also individuals that gather in tubular colonies that have the shape of brown bushes. They grow very quickly, sometimes reaching a height of 20 centimeters. But to a greater extent, they look like flat formations that we perceive as plaque.
Brown algae prefer shady corners of water bodies with an abundance of organic matter. This just encourages them to actively develop. Filling the entire aquarium, this algae deprives other inhabitants of the right to a normal existence.
Reasons for the appearance of diatoms
If the reservoir is new, then the appearance of brown blotches on the walls of the aquarium or the surface of the water in a couple of weeks is considered the norm. The reason is still uninhabited habitat - a fairly high content of carbon and organic matter in the water. Apparently, there are still a small number of fish and green vegetation in the reservoir that would absorb all this abundance.
But if the “brown junta” began to take over the space of the old aquarium, then here one should already think about where the regime was violated.
- Perhaps the aquarium is not well lit - "drillers" are very fond of partial shade.
- The increased content of iodine is also the cause of brown algae.
- Brown algae also receive nourishment from the silicates contained in the reservoir. Their source can be substrates containing silicon, or sand at the bottom of the reservoir.
But no matter which of the reasons that affect the appearance of brown algae, it is necessary to start fighting it immediately, as soon as the first signs of a problem are noticed.
Brown algae control
To make the inhabitants of your home pond feel comfortable enough, get rid of brown algae by all available means. Don't let these "amoebae" breed in your aquarium. 
- In a young aquarium, it will be enough to do mechanical work, removing all plaque from the surfaces. To do this, you can purchase a special scraper or take a regular blade.
- From the leaves of aquatic plants, you will have to clean off brown raids simply with your hands. Never use foam or sponge material to remove algae. And do the cleaning carefully so as not to damage the plants.
- Do not forget about the accumulated dirt at the bottom of the reservoir - it is better to remove it with the help of a hose designed for this.
- Remove pebbles, shells, pebbles (when changing water) from the aquarium and rinse them well. Do the same with decorative elements (artificial locks, decorative snags, etc.).
- Rinse should also be under running water and filters, as well as compressor hoses.
- Get in the aquarium biological weapons"- fish that feed on brown algae: girinocheilus, catfish ancistrus, Siamese algae eater, etc. Mollusks (neritic olive snail, horned snail) are also good cleaners.
But various chemicals to combat brown "evil spirits" should not be used - harm other inhabitants of the reservoir. But some antibiotics (such as penicillin) can be used. And be sure to put the aquarium as close to the light as possible.
Preventive measures
To no longer have to deal with such a scourge as brown algae, follow the basic rules for caring for home water bodies.
- First of all, ensure that there is sufficient lighting in every corner of the aquarium. If daylight hours are too short, use additional lighting fixtures. It is better to use lamps that give red spectral light.
- Always keep the temperature in the reservoir at the optimum level (+ 22-28 0 C) - brown algae like just the opposite, cooler.
- Regularly change the water in the aquarium, monitor its technical indicators (pH, iodine, nitrates, phosphates, silicates). Never use water directly from the tap - only purified water is needed.
- Install filters in the pond that can absorb silicates
- Plant an aquarium with a large number of aquatic plants - they will "take away" part of the nutrition from brown algae, thereby slowing down its growth.
- Aquarists with experience recommend putting zinc and copper products on the bottom of the reservoir. These metals are capable of destroying brown algae.
Every time you do a water change or kelp cleaning, make sure to provide the inhabitants of the pond with round-the-clock lighting for several days.
How to get rid of brown algae:
Some time after the launch of the aquarium, the owners begin to notice that a brown or brown coating has appeared in it, on the walls and interior decorations.
Weekly cleaning with complete rinsing does not help, plaque returns again and again, and already in more. This is how diatoms or diatoms grow.
Beginning aquarists need to know that it is possible to restore the former aesthetics of a fish dwelling, and quite quickly and easily. However, certain rules must be followed. We have compiled some tips for you on how to deal with brown algae in an aquarium.
Botanical characteristic
When a brown coating appears on the glass of the fish tank, plant leaves, appliances and decor items, it must be dealt with. Otherwise, the fish dwelling will look unkempt and cause not aesthetic feelings, but disgust.
Diatoms (Bacillariophyta)- These are unicellular or colonial forms of underwater plants, the reproduction of which occurs through division. Unlike others, their cells have an outer hard shell in the form of a porous shell with silica in the composition. They are microscopic in size - 0.75–1500 microns.
As a rule, diatoms are absent in aquariums densely populated with real ones, since the latter absorb all the nutrients from the water, and representatives of brown algae simply have nothing to eat.
The most favorable environment for their growth and development is in freshly launched, unlit or dimly lit reservoirs with artificial decorations. Also, brown plaque appears in long-term, which are not properly cared for. 
Did you know? The largest holding tank in the world is marine life volume of 10 million liters, located in the largest mall Dubai. It contains about 33 thousand aquatic inhabitants. And the largest home aquarium is owned by the Englishman Jack Hiscot - its capacity is 20 tons.
Popular Representatives
About 300 genera and 25 thousand species of diatoms are known. In most often there are representatives of the genus Navicula, Pinnilaria and Cymbella.
Navicula
Navicula is the most numerous genus among other representatives of diatoms - it has approximately 10 thousand species. Naviculae can vary in shape. They feed phototrophically. They themselves serve as food for young fish. AT aquarium conditions most often appear in spring or autumn.
Pinnularia
Representatives of the Pinnularia genus in the aquarium can be seen in summer or early autumn. About 10 species of these plants are known. They reproduce by division within 4-6 days. When dividing, the mother plant gives half of the shell to the daughter, the second half grows from it. These algae vary in size. 
Cymbella
The genus Cymbella is also common. He has rich species composition. Cells have the shape of a ball, oval, ellipse, spindle. These under aquatic plants may be mobile or immobile. Most often found in summer. Cymbells are fond of insect larvae, which are eaten by fish.
Damage and causes
The main causes of brown plaque:
- poor lighting and short daylight hours (less than 6-8 hours); /li]
- water pH above 7.5;
- low water temperature (below 22 °C);
- high level of silicates in water;
- aquarium overcrowding;
- overfeeding fish;
- excessive content of nutrients and organic matter;
- too high iodine content in water;
- rush to fertilize a new reservoir;
- clogged ;
- untimely water changes and cleaning of the fish dwelling;
- untimely replacement of the lighting lamp.
The introduction of diatoms occurs with the addition of new inhabitants from other aquariums, the planting of new ones, the introduction of any items that have already been used in the aquarium hobby. They can also actively develop after the treatment of fish with salt, preparations with copper and iodine in the composition. Did you know? The creators of the first aquariums are the British. They created containers for keeping fish in the 19th century. The name of the container was invented by the English naturalist Philip Henry Hesse.
Brown plaque does not harm the inhabitants of the aquarium, but it upsets the owner and annoys him. In addition to the fact that even a slight layer of brown algae makes the fish dwelling look untidy, they also provoke the growth of other unnecessary algae - green, red, which becomes a problem to get rid of.
Settling on the leaves of living plants, diatoms disrupt their photosynthesis. As a result, beautiful and useful ones begin to hurt, rot and die. At the same time, the rate of spread of brown plaque is quite high - you can see how a new leaf that has just appeared will be completely brown by evening or morning. The division of some types of diatoms occurs every 4–8 hours. 
Thus, brown aquatic plants are mainly harmful. Therefore, it is very important to know the methods of how to deal with diatoms in an aquarium.
Did you know? aquarium fish, which lived the longest, is considered an eel named Pati from Sweden. Pati died in 1948 when she was 88 years old.
Fighting methods
Diatoms are not the most difficult algae to colonize an aquarium. There are several effective ways to get rid of them.
Maintaining optimal conditions
First way - proper care behind the aquarium and regulation of water quality. Tanks with and without live plants will have slightly different control methods, just like new and old aquariums, since the reasons for the reproduction of diatoms in each of these cases are likely to be different. 
So, you have a new aquarium, and during the first 3 months of its maintenance, diatoms settled in it. If it is not very massive, you can wait a while. There is a chance that when the water in the aquarium returns to normal, the algae will disappear on their own. Until then, it will be necessary to carry out mechanical cleaning.
You should also increase the daylight hours or put a more powerful lamp.
If the plaque has not disappeared, then there are 4 ways to solve the problem:
- try to change the lighting - for an aquarium without live plants, an 8-hour daylight hours will be optimal;
- measure the water temperature - if it is below 22 °С, install a heater and raise the water temperature to 24–25 °С;
- plant live plants;
- run .
Important! Most of the new running aquariums go through a dominance of diatoms. Take any action to combat them only if, after 2-3 weeks they didn't die naturally from the lack of organic nutrients for them and after the restoration of biobalance.
When a brown coating appears in an old aquarium, there are also several ways to deal with it. Since the main reason for its occurrence is the excess of the level of organic matter, it will be necessary to regulate its content. This is achieved by regular (3-4 times a week) 20% water changes.
Analyze, perhaps your aquarium contains more living creatures than it can accept. Then you need to think about either reducing the number of its inhabitants or purchasing a high-quality biofilter.
In a long-running aquarium, the quality of lighting and cleanliness should also be checked. Perhaps the length of daylight hours will need to be extended or the lamp replaced. For reservoirs with living plants, it is optimal to maintain light for 8–10 hours.
Watch the fish while feeding - if they have time to eat all the food after 5 minutes. Remove all residues immediately after this time. It may be necessary to slightly reduce the amount of food used for one feeding. 
Make sure the aquarium is not exposed to direct sunlight during the day. If this happens, then it is worth finding another place for the fish to live.
If a within a couple of weeks, methods such as frequent water changes by 20%, mechanical cleaning, reducing food, did not help get rid of brown plaque in the aquarium, which means you need to think about acquiring more powerful light.
Also, in case of failure, it is necessary to analyze the tap water. Perhaps the reason lies in the fact that it contains too much phosphorus.
Important! It is important not to overdo it with light, as too long daylight hours and powerful lamps can trigger an outbreak of other algae. The lamp should be more powerful than the previous one by no more than 2-2.5 times.
mechanical cleaning
Diatoms are perfectly removed by mechanical cleaning - you don’t even need a scraper for this, just wipe the aquarium glass with a rag, rinse the bottom with a hose, clean with a siphon, wipe plaque from objects and plant leaves. 
biological warfare
Highly effective way the fight against brown representatives of the "underwater garden" is biological. In order to prevent the appearance of diatoms and their destruction, the following inhabitants should be launched into the aquarium:
- otocinclus catfish (4–5 per 100 l), girinocheilus and;
- Siamese algae eaters;
- shellfish;
- olive nerite snails;
- shrimp.
Experienced aquarists consider the use of "chemistry" inappropriate, since diatoms, unlike other insidious unfriendly algae, are easy to get rid of. The main thing is to achieve optimal conditions and constantly maintain them. An important role in this process is played by living plants and aquarium inhabitants who love to eat these algae. On average, the process of getting rid of diatoms takes 3-4 weeks.
The issue of algal outbreaks in the aquarium periodically torments both beginners and pros of the aquarium trade. And all why? Because these unwanted guests can appear both "in a young" and "in an old" reservoir.
An experienced aquarist will immediately notice unwanted algae and, knowing approximately its name or genus, will quickly neutralize it, preventing an outbreak. But for beginners, it's hard!
The situation is further aggravated by the diversity of information on the issue of algae control. Who says: keep the aquarium in the dark, who, on the contrary, increase the daylight hours! Some say: you have an overdose of fertilizers in the aquarium, while others, on the contrary, you have little macro fertilizers, etc.
Let's figure out what's wrong in the aquarium ?! How to deal with it! Let's debunk the legends and myths about algae.
What is aquarium algae?
Many beginners call algae aquarium plants and vice versa plants are called algae! This is a fundamental misunderstanding vegetable nature.
aquarium plants- these are the highest flora. In the aquarium, these are the same plants as in the field or on the lawn near the house. This is a biological kingdom, one of the main groups of multicellular organisms, including mosses, ferns, horsetails, club mosses, etc.
Seaweed are the lowest. heterogeneous environmental group predominantly phototrophic unicellular, colonial or multicellular organisms, living, as a rule, in an aquatic environment, systematically representing a combination of many departments. Entering into symbiosis with fungi, these organisms in the course of evolution formed completely new organisms - lichens.
Having demarcated these two concepts, we decided with whom specifically we need to fight. Our aquarium enemy is algae, the lowest of the plant world!
How to deal with and get rid of aquarium algae
At the dawn of the formation of our site, a simple article was written: PLAQUE ON AQUARIUM WALLS AND STONES. Time passed, and to our surprise, even such a short article gained popularity! Yes and on forum, guys often ask for help in the fight against these nasty "raids".
Well, perhaps it's time to paint everything on the shelves!
So here are the main effective methods fight against green, brown, brown, black, blue-green algae.
1. IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO DETERMINE WHAT IS A PLAQUE AND WHAT IS ALGAE!
Like plants, there are a large number of algae, as well as their species and subspecies. Of course, it is impossible to know all of them, but you need to know the group, the genus of these algae! The effectiveness of the struggle and the actions that need to be taken depend on this.
This is where all the confusion in the advice on the forums lies: turn off the light, turn on the light ... Everyone has different outbreaks of algae, different aquariums, different lighting, water and aquatic organisms.
Below, in this article, there will be an overview of the main and most common algae in the aquarium and the specifics of dealing with them.
2. AQUARIUM BIOBALANC IS OUR EVERYTHING!
The root cause of any aquarium trouble is the absence or violation of the biobalance in the aquarium, that is, the mutual balance of all hydrobionts (fish, plants, mollusks, algae, fungi, bacteria, etc.).
You will be surprised, but in the aquarium there are always, constantly spores of various algae, as well as bacteria and fungi! All of them perform their function, for example, cleaning the aquarium of dead organic matter, removing poisons (ammonium, nitrites and nitrates) from the aquarium, etc. In other words, the aquarium is not sterile - it is a living organism, from various groups, colonies visible and not visible to man living organisms.
An algae outbreak is a visual evidence of a violation (absence) of the biobalance in an aquarium. This is the loss of any link in the balance!
Having found out which link fell out, you need to return it to its place. Which is hard for a beginner to do!
Here are the main reasons for the loss of the biobalance link:
- lack of daylight hours or using the "wrong" lamps with the "wrong" spectrum. Accordingly, it is necessary to increase daylight hours or remove lamps with a “bad” spectrum and buy lamps of the desired spectrum or purchase lamps of the missing spectrum. More Aquarium lighting and lamp selection and Do-it-yourself aquarium lighting. This item, for example, is relevant for diatoms that appear in "young aquariums" and which do not like intense lighting.
- the presence in the aquarium of excess dead organic matter and dirt(dead plants, fish, food residues, waste products of hydrobionts, etc.). Simply put, the aquarium does not have time to cope with such an amount of "garbage" and the only way out for our beloved, live aquarium is to call for help from algae, which will happily gobble up all this garbage.
Accordingly, you need to remove all the “garbage”: siphon the bottom of the aquarium, clean the walls, decor and equipment, try to mechanically remove algae, as well as do more frequent and more complete water changes with fresh water, in the end, you can pour aquarium coal into the filter compartment .
Next reason follows from the above and is a disastrous continuation of the accumulation of "dirt" in the aquarium. All dead organic matter is decomposed by beneficial bacteria and fungi, and removed from the aquarium. If there is a lot of this dead organic matter and it accumulates, microorganisms do not have time to process it! Poisons begin to accumulate in the aquarium - decomposition products: ammonia, nitrites and nitrates, which leads not only to the appearance of algae, but generally destroys all living things in the aquarium.
In addition to the above measures for thorough cleaning of the aquarium, you need to use aquarium preparations that either absorb poisons or increase the colony of beneficial nitrifier bacteria, for example: 
A) zeolite. Sold in pet stores or other places. A mixture of zeolite and coal is found everywhere Fluval Zeo-Carb.
On a note: you need to know that aquarium charcoal is not effective against poisons and only ion-exchange resin - zeolite removes them.
B) Biostarter drugs, as well as drugs that increase the colonies of beneficial bacteria. Simply put, these are preparations that contain the very bacteria that decompose poisons. There are a lot of such drugs, for example, popular ones: - colony of bacteria,Tetra NitratMinus , Tetra NitrateMinus Pearls - these preparations for feeding beneficial bacteria and others.
3. A large number of plants in the aquarium. No one has yet scientifically proven that plants suppress algae, but the fact remains that in an aquarium with live aquarium plants (1/2, 2/3), there are no algal outbreaks, except sometimes green dots appear, and then from strong lighting.
Therefore, if you have the opportunity to provide plants proper care: LIGHT, CO2, UDO- be sure to plant beds!
4. There are useful fish that fight - eat algae and algal plaque:
A) Siamese algae eaters- tireless workers of the aquarium, sometimes it seems that the only meaning of their life is an insatiable desire to kiss all the plants and all the stones, and walk through all the aquarium decorations. They can also be found under the abbreviation SAE, which stands for Siamese Algae Eater and translates as Siamese algae eaters. There are also KAE and IAE - Chinese and Indian algae eaters. Effective against algae "black beard", "thread" and "deer horns", etc.
B) Otocinclus- no less effective fish. Due to the structure of their mouth, they carefully and well remove algae from plants, decor and walls. Copes with green, brown (diatoms), etc.
B) ancistrus- are also useful. But, unlike the aforementioned fish, adults of Ancistrus are lazy. Yes, and they say that in addition to algae, they also eat plants.
G) To good helper in the fight against algae, the whole family also applies pecilian- guppies, swordtails, mollies, platies and others.
D) All possible shellfish- pugulars, coils, physes, marizas, etc.
E) Amana shrimp. Help in the fight against thread.
Note that you can rely on the help of these fish, but not rely on them.
5. And finally, aquarium preparations that suppress algae will come to the rescue. There are a lot of such drugs sold in pet stores, as a rule, they contain the word “Algo” (algae) in their name, for example, .
These drugs must be used carefully, wisely and according to the instructions. We recommend Tetra products, as their preparations contain monolinuron, which has a milder, more gentle effect. At correct application- taking into account all the circumstances in the aquarium, Tetra products do not negative impact on fish and plants. Read more.
Another and rather extensive group of algae preparations contains glutaraldehyde, a more powerful algaecide. It can be used in advanced cases or, for example, in dense herbalists. In general, in practice it has been noticed that if the aquarium is just with fish, then it is better to use Tetra and monolinuron. What if we are talking about the herbalist - an aquarium with plants, preparations based on glutaraldehyde are well behaved and effective. There are a lot of such drugs, including domestic brands. Of all the variety, we can recommend the algae preparation from the Medos VladOx company - glutaraldehyde, at the right price! You can learn more about this drug. 
So, we have examined the main causes of algae in the aquarium, and also analyzed the main methods of dealing with them. Finally, it should be noted that, as a rule, “an algae trouble comes in a complex”, and therefore it is necessary to deal with it in a complex way, i.e. not one method, but several at once, or even all at once.
Algae in the aquarium - know the enemy by sight!
Types of aquarium algae with a photo
As previously mentioned, there are a lot of varieties of algae. There are over 30,000 species! Below are the most common algae, the reasons for their appearance in the aquarium and the individual features of solving problems with them.
But first, a classification. Due to the abundance of algal mass, they were simply divided according to the color of the thallus (thallus) into:
- Diatoms - Diatomeae;
- Brown algae - Phaeophceae;
- Green algae - Chlorophceae;
- Yellow-green algae - Xantophceae;
- Red algae - Rhodophceae;
- Golden algae - Chrysophceae;
- Blue-green algae - Cynophceae;
They include the following "popular algal pests":
Brown or diatoms
(brown coating on the walls, soil, stones of the aquarium)
photo brown, brown algae in the aquarium
These are the simplest and, if I may say so, harmless algae. They are placed at the very top of the list, as they often appear in beginners - in young aquariums. The first reason for their appearance is the lack of lighting, the second is the lack of biobalance in young aquariums - tuned.
As soon as a young aquarium is set up or lighting is added, diatoms will disappear on their own. You can remove them mechanically and with the help of snails.
Red algae or black algae
Vietnamese seaweed or deer antlers
photo of Vietnamese aquarium algae
This algae is probably written on everyone! And all the same, the ranks of the unfortunate owners of this infection in their aquarium, everything is replenished and replenished.
This algae is very tenacious and difficult to remove. Its appearance speaks primarily of the high content of dead organic matter in the aquarium, which it feeds on.
The methods of struggle are common: we carefully remove everything, siphon the soil - we remove the organic matter. We put coal and zeolite in the filter, do frequent water changes (up to 50% per week), well, we use algicides and algae eaters.
Seaweed black beard
photo seaweed black beard
Many people confuse her with "Vietnamese", because. it is similar and has the same causes of appearance. As a rule, appears in "young aquariums". The extraction methods are the same.
Filamentous algae (popularly - filamentous)
Seaweed Edogonium 
photo of thread in an aquarium 
This is the most common type of filamentous algae that attacks the aquarium. At first it looks like a green fluff, then like long green strings. When they occur, it is recommended to apply the above methods of struggle. And also in the literature it is noted that this algae appears due to a lack of macroelements. Surprisingly, in particular, phosphates and nitrates (which all remove). There is a positive effect when they are added. In advanced cases, algaecide-containing preparations are used.
Cladophora (popularly - cladophora thread) 
It has branches and does not have long threads. As a rule, it appears in aquariums with poor filtration, poor water flow and the presence of stagnation zones, where it "blooms".
You can get rid of it by eliminating negative factors, mechanically (by hand) and algaecide.
Spirogyra
This algae is very nasty, not only because it is slimy and green, but also because it grows exponentially. It is difficult to withdraw - neither algaecide nor SAE will help. It is difficult, but it can be defeated mechanically: we collect it with our hands, rubbing it with our fingers (it is fragile), siphoning from the bottom. As additional measures fight helps: turn off the lights, fish and algae shrimp.
Rhizoclonium
It can also be attributed to filamentous algae, because. has a filamentous structure. As a rule, it appears in young aquariums, where the biobalance, which can be identically called the nitrogen cycle, has not yet been adjusted. This is not such a terrible algae! In fact, it disappears after the establishment / restoration of biobalance in the aquarium. Applicable to it, all are effective common methods fight. Most effective: water change and algaecide.
Xenococcus - green plaque on the walls of the aquarium
Everyone, both beginners and pros, is already faced with this algae. It appears from an excess of lighting or an incorrect daylight regime. In this case, plant biomass does not play a role. It appears in aquariums, both with lush vegetation, and in an aquarium with "three streaks".
Recommendations for the fight against xenocrocus ( correct name- colheta) general: reduce, adjust daylight hours, algicide, mechanical cleaning, fish and shellfish helpers, frequent water changes.
blue green algae
photo of blue-green algae in an aquarium
These are rare guests of our aquariums. However, you need to know them. They are formed at the tips of plants or the tops of the decor. Unlike other algae, blue-green algae is a colony of bacteria, while being very toxic (they release toxins into the water).
Well, since these are bacteria, you can get rid of them with the help of human antibiotics and septic tanks or antibacterial aquarium preparations, for example, Sulfur Baktopur. If you do not want to poison the aquarium with harsh chemicals and antibiotics, you can use it locally hydrogen peroxide in the right doses.
That's all! We wish you success and an eternally stable aquarium!
If you decide to start an aquarium at home, or you already have one, then you know that a lot of problems can arise with it if it is improperly maintained. Our article is devoted to the care of the "fish house", you can learn about all the nuances of keeping it clean so that the inhabitants feel as comfortable as possible and you admire the underwater world without inconvenience. The main topic of this publication is brown algae in the aquarium. How to deal with this pest - read the further content. You will also find out how often you will have to change the water, what kind of cleaner to get for the neighborhood with the fish, what should be optimum temperature water and lighting. Following our instructions, you will not have additional worries about caring for your home underwater kingdom.
What is brown algae?
If you have a rapidly cloudy water in the aquarium, and you have to change it too often, be sure that harmful brown algae has settled in it. Of course, we decorate aquariums with ornamental algae, but diatoms (brown) algae look completely unaesthetic. Besides the fact that they spoil appearance"reservoir", they also cause discomfort to its inhabitants. This creature is a single-celled organisms that multiply rapidly. They have a silicon shell, and many are able to move! The value of brown algae in natural marine ecosystems large, since they make up a solid part of the plankton and form almost a quarter of the organic matter of our planet.
In artificially created reservoirs, including aquariums, this algae is an unwanted guest. It forms a slimy coating, especially in darkened corners, near the bottom and in places with an incorrect focus of light.
By the way, when we say "brown", we mean their color, and not their systematic affiliation, because brown algae is a separate department of highly developed marine organisms, which has large bodies-thallus.
Most often, brown algae form in a new aquarium where the ecosystem has not yet been established. In long-standing ones, they start up due to weak and incorrect lighting, but there are a number of other reasons, which we will discuss in the future content.
Brown algae in the aquarium: causes
In a new aquarium, which was installed less than three months ago, diatoms appear due to an unidentified nitrogen cycle, where ornamental plants have not yet had time to take root. During this period, the oversaturation of water with organic matter will become an activator of the reproduction of brown algae, this is an inevitable process of decay, which plants and microorganisms have not yet learned to absorb. In addition, freshly poured water is slightly alkaline or, under such conditions, many compounds are simply not available for most plants. Let's say that at a pH less than 7, most of the ammonia contained will be in the form of NH4 + (ammonium ions), which can be consumed by plants living in an aquarium. If the pH is more than 7, then ammonia will remain ammonia and form the basis of algae nutrition.
The most common mistake many beginner aquarists make is too long daylight hours. When starting a new aquarium, you can not immediately turn on the lamps for all twelve hours. good remedy from brown algae in the aquarium - antibacterial powder.
If you dream of beautiful decorative ones, then do not rush to add fertilizers to the water for their growth and health. In the first two months, no top dressing, except for potassium, can be launched into the water, this can contribute to the appearance of brown algae.
If this pest appeared in a long-running aquarium, then the pump for the aquarium may be the cause. It can work poorly due to the accumulation of organic matter that overfed fish reproduce. Other causes of clogging can be over-fertilization, irregular water changes, and cleaning. Do not forget to monitor the condition of the filter and pump for the aquarium.
The reason for the appearance of diatoms in your aquarium can be outdated lamps. Just do not change everything at once, but at intervals of a month, so that all the inhabitants have time to adapt to the lighting normally.
The temperature of the water in the aquarium also plays a huge role. Brown algae loves to settle in cool places. If the water temperature in the aquarium is below 22 degrees, then you run the risk of starting this unpretentious and very harmful plant.
If the fish were treated in community aquarium, then this can also cause a brown coating. Preparations containing such toxic components as copper or iodine can disrupt the microflora and cause serious damage to it. In this case, diatoms will live with you until the ecosystem is fully restored. Exactly the same result can give the use of salt.
Brown coating in the aquarium may appear after a change of owner or maintainer. For example, the previous owner forgot to change water, lamps, make the necessary fertilizers, and his aquarium was transparent, like a tear. And then it appears new owner. He begins to repair, change, create comfort, and immediately a brown turbidity of the water forms. How to deal with it - read on.
Symptoms of the appearance of diatoms
The characteristic feature of brown algae in your aquarium is a brownish dusty coating. It appears on stones, snags, glasses, plant leaves. Initially, it is almost invisible, but every day it becomes darker.
In the first stages of the lesion, the plaque is quite easily removed from the glass, it can be shaken off the plants. If you run your finger over the surface on which brown algae has settled, a cloud of dust will rise, as it were.
In advanced cases, it is very difficult to get rid of diatoms. The plaque becomes almost black, multi-layered. The top layer will still be dusty, and the bottom ones are practically not removed. The plants look as if they were sprinkled with earth, visibility in the aquarium becomes poor due to plaque on the glass.
Danger for the aquarium
Brown algae do not affect the health and behavior of fish in any way, but are dangerous for aquarium plants. They, growing on the leaves, interfere with normal photosynthesis. If you do not take measures to get rid of the pest, then the plants will soon simply die.
Diatom algae reproduces very quickly, it affects every newly appeared leaf. It also becomes an ideal substrate for the growth and development of more difficult-to-remove algae, and contributes to the appearance of a black beard.
If you notice the first symptoms of the appearance of brown algae in the aquarium, then immediately take measures to eliminate it. It must not be allowed to grow. The algae itself will not leave the chosen place, so you should not hope that it will disappear over time. In just a week, diatoms are able to completely hit the aquarium, oppressing the situation in it. Getting rid of this actively developing and growing creature will take at least three weeks. How to deal with brown algae in an aquarium?
New aquarium
If the attack of plants and glasses occurred at the start-up stage, then it will be enough to eliminate the brown algae in the aquarium. How to deal with it? You just have to follow the basic rules. Raise the temperature of the water a couple of degrees, this will slow down the growth of diatoms. Do a 30% water change once a week. At the same time, do not forget to clean the plaque well from plants, stones and glasses. Soon decorative algae will begin to grow actively and will displace brown algae.
To clean off brown plaque, use a toothbrush, the leaves must be washed under running water. Perform these operations until there is not a single trace of diatoms left.
stabilized aquarium
If you have an aquarium for a long time and there was an outbreak of brown algae growth, then you will have to try a little to get rid of it. Start with consistent water changes up to 30% twice a week. It is necessary to carefully clean the plaque. A sponge, brush or scraper will help if several layers have already appeared.
Check the aquarium filter and pump. Perhaps the water intake was clogged or the filter could become airy, and the speed and quality of filtration decreased, which contributed to the appearance of brown algae. If necessary, clean, rinse under running water.
Daylight hours
Sunlight can promote the reproduction of brown algae. If your aquarium is located in a well-lit place, then put it in a darker place for a couple of days so that daylight hours do not exceed six hours. Then slowly add time over the course of two weeks so that by the end of the period the light has penetrated the water for ten hours.
If the lamps installed for lighting are more than a year old, you will have to change them. As we already wrote, you should not change them all at once. One at a time, within a month, make a replacement. Keeping up with these times is very important so that the plants can adapt to the new, brighter light.
organic matter
To get rid of brown algae and prevent its occurrence, you need to properly feed the fish. There should be enough food so that underwater inhabitants can eat it in two minutes. If food remains after this time, then it is surplus. Don't worry that your fish will go hungry if you reduce your food intake. They are capable of eating too much, that is their nature. The amount of food depends on the amount organic matter in water, and the more of them, the higher the likelihood of the appearance of diatoms. If they are already wound up, then reducing the amount of food for fish will help get rid of them.
dense vegetation
If diatoms have appeared in your aquarium, then plant a few more bushes of ornamental plants. They will consume more microorganisms, minerals, and there will be nothing left for brown algae. Over time, with consistent water changes, they will simply disappear.
Who eats brown algae in an aquarium?
Diatoms are a favorite delicacy of otocinclus catfish. A dozen of these fish are able to maintain constant cleanliness in an aquarium of 200 liters. With such inhabitants, you will not have problems with the appearance and reproduction of brown algae. Get theodoctus snails, mollusks, plecostomus, gyrinochleilus or Siamese algae eaters. These inhabitants will help you in the fight against annoying diatoms and diversify the fauna of the aquarium.
emergency measures
If no method helps, and brown algae continues to multiply in the aquarium, a pet store consultant will tell you how to deal with it. He will select the best chemicals to eliminate the pest from your underwater kingdom. Do not buy any products without professional advice, as you can only exacerbate the problem by negatively affecting other, useful vegetation. Chemical preparations should be such as to inhibit brown algae and promote the growth and development of ornamental plants. You can try to add a prophylactic dose of algaecides to the water, which are aimed at plant growth.
If brown algae has struck many plants, attacked the bottom of the aquarium, you can not do without an antibiotic. Erythromycin is the best option. Relocate the fish to another aquarium during the period of the fight against diatom antibiotics so that they are not accidentally harmed. Leave only catfish and snails, they will help to overcome the pest much faster.
The period of activity of diatoms
The most dangerous time for brown algae to appear in an aquarium is winter. Daylight hours during this period are too short, and insufficient lighting is a threat to the appearance of diatoms. It is necessary to create good artificial lighting to prevent the appearance and reproduction of brown plaque.
How often to clean the aquarium winter period? It is necessary to perform this action at least once a week. Do not change all the water, this will adversely affect the microflora of the aquarium, which will lead to diseases of fish and ornamental plants. Change from 20 to 30 percent of the water, be sure to clean all decorations and aquarium glass from dirt and organic matter.
If brown algae appeared in winter time, in the spring it should completely disappear as soon as daylight resumes. During this period, clean the aquarium up to twice a week, use a scraper to remove plaque from the glass.
Water for aquariums
We examined the features of brown algae and the main methods of dealing with them. We suggest that you familiarize yourself with the basic rules for caring for your home underwater kingdom. For scaly pets to live in comfortable conditions, did not get sick, lived as long as possible, you need to know how to care for an aquarium at home. If you are a beginner aquarist, then this publication will come in handy.
The first thing everyone should know is that water cannot be poured into the aquarium from a tap, or immediately brought from a reservoir. In order for the inhabitants of your underwater world felt good, the water should stand for at least three days. There are fish species for which water that has been settled for a day is unacceptable, as many do. It is considered too fresh, saturated with oxygen. In such an environment, fish can get sick, after which they will recover for a long time.
If you do not have enough time to settle the water, you can bring it to normal more simply and quickly. Take the required amount, place in a metal container, heat over a fire to seventy degrees. It is important not to miss the moment and not to boil! After heating, cool to room temperature and proceed with the replacement.
We wrote throughout the article that 30% of the water needs to be changed. This is the optimal weekly change, but there are fish that do not tolerate such a change, it is acceptable for them to change only a fifth of the volume. But if brown algae appeared, they will have to be patient, and you will get rid of the pest according to the scheme recommended by us.
Cloudy water
If you carefully monitor the cleanliness of the aquarium, change the water consistently, and cloudiness still appears, you should not immediately worry. Such an effect on the water can have food left after a fish meal. For a while, stop giving the fish this type of food, switch to another and do not fill it a lot.
Carry out a general cleaning in the aquarium with the cleaning of all decorations and glass. If the water still continues to become cloudy, an unpleasant odor emanates from it, move the fish to another tank, and place daphnia in the aquarium, it will clean everything perfectly.
Cloudy water can also be caused by the aquarium itself, which has outlived its own. If the tank is too old, it will need to be replaced.
Adapting a New Aquarium
Having bought a new house for fish, do not rush to populate it. You need to adjust it within a week. Pour water into it, change it every other day. In this way, you can eliminate all harmful substances from plastic and glass that can adversely affect the health of the fish.
After replacing the water twice, you can fill the bottom with soil and plant ornamental plants in it. During the week, observe the behavior of the soil: if it begins to cake, change it, as the entire microflora may be disturbed. Most often, this is what causes the death of plants and fish that happily lived in another, old aquarium.
Settlement of fish
Keeping a home aquarium sounds simple, but it's far from it. When the planted ornamental plants have taken root, you can launch the fish, and this is also done according to the rules. It is necessary to select those species that are able to get along together, live in the same environment. If this is not done, then only the most adapted species will be able to survive, while others will be oppressed. In the end, they will die.
If you have purchased new fish and they are suitable for living together with existing ones, then do not rush to identify them in the aquarium. It is worth waiting from a month to three, to quarantine. It's not even that the pets may not make friends, but that the new ones may be sick and infect other fish. They may also have microorganisms that are not adapted to live in your aquarium environment.
Conclusion
Home aquariums are undoubtedly very beautiful. Looking at the measured life of fish, you can calm down, relax. Knowing how to properly care for the aquarium and its inhabitants, you can maximize the life of each. From this article, you were able to learn how to deal with brown algae in an aquarium, and this is the most common problem for many aquarists. By following our tips, you can keep your pond in perfect cleanliness.
Algae in the aquarium- this is probably one of the main problems of the aquarist. There are many discussions on this topic. However, as a rule, attempts to cope with algae are not so successful. This is due to the fact that many aquarists do not delve into the essence of the problem and use various means at random, which only increases the number of ineffective ways to fight.
There are two categories of algae of concern to aquarists: "good" and "bad". Good algae are present in small quantities, indicating good quality water, they are easy to control with the help of fish using algae for food or by simple removal during routine maintenance. These algae are a natural consequence - in a container of water, with nutrients and a light source. Bad algae is usually an indication of poor water quality.
To fight the enemy, you need to know him by sight. Algae are the oldest group that, having survived various climate changes, has learned to adapt to difficult conditions. There are 4 main types of algae in the aquarium.
Types of green algae:
Green Water/Water Bloom.
Green single-celled algae sometimes multiply so rapidly that the water turns green color. This is commonly referred to as "blooming" and is usually caused by too much light and direct sunlight. sun rays. When darkening the aquarium, they can be removed by filtration with a micron cartridge or diatomaceous earth filters. UV sterilizers take the first place in the fight against water bloom. Green water - very useful when growing daphnia and shrimp larvae. A film of algae on the glass of the aquarium forms a thin coating. Easy to remove by wiping the glass.
Overhead lighting of 0.5 W/l is considered normal for an aquarium, which is necessary for good plant growth.
Algae in the form of spots.
Grows in thin, hard, round, bright green patches, usually on aquarium glass and plants in high light. Considered normal for an aquarium with plants. Are removed mechanically. In acrylic aquariums, use a cloth. In glass tanks, the blade is the most efficient.
Tufts/tufts of algae.
They grow mainly on the leaves of plants in the form of separate, short (2-5mm) or long (4cm) strands. Easy to control with algae-eating fish.
Filamentous algae.
They grow in long, thin strands up to 30 cm. Closer to a dull green color. Indicate, as a rule, an excess of iron. Easily removed with a toothbrush, by rotating/winding.
2. Brown/diatoms
Occurs as a soft brown coating. Typically, the presence of brown/diatoms indicates a lack of light or an excess of silicates. When the light level increases, they usually disappear. Easy to remove by wiping the glass or by siphoning the affected area.
3. Blue-green algae
Grows and spreads rapidly as a blue-green film/mucus, usually indicating poor aquarium water quality. Blue-green algae are able to absorb nitrogen, it can be found in aquariums with extremely low level nitrates. They can be physically removed, but this is not a solution to the problem, if conditions remain favorable, then these algae will quickly return. Treatment 200 mg of erythromycin per 10 liters of water is usually sufficient to eliminate blue-green algae, but some believe that this may also have an adverse effect on the biological filter. If erythromycin is used for treatment, ammonia and nitrite levels should be monitored. Blue-green algae can only exist in stagnant water, so by circulating the water in the aquarium, you can stop the development of these algae.
4. Red algae.
Grows in feathery tufts/brushes of olive, gray or reddish color. In nature, they grow mainly in the sea, but some species exist in fresh waters. The most unpleasant for the aquarist are "Blackbeard" and / or "Vietnamese", which are tenaciously fixed on glass, snags and leaves. Dark gray brushes / tufts multiply quickly and spoil the appearance of the entire aquarium.
Unfortunately, the formation of algae in the aquarium is a natural process and therefore it is almost impossible to get rid of them once and for all. Even if absolute sterility is observed, algae spores can still enter an aquarium with plants, fish or water. Strong agents capable of destroying the algae cell, first of all, disrupt the ecosystem / biological balance of the reservoir, harm fish and higher plants.
You cannot completely get rid of algae, but you can reduce their development:
1. Maintain your aquarium regularly, including water changes.
2. Water must contain enough macro and microelements necessary for the development of aquarium hydrobionts.
3. Place fast growing plant species such as , and in the aquarium. These plants actively absorb nutrients from the water, thereby depriving the algae of nutrition.
4. It has been noticed that algae develop better under cold blue light, so it is better not to use lamps of this spectrum at all or install them only near the front glass. All other lighting should be warm or neutral.
5. It may not sound strange, but algae in the form of a ball - is also a competitor of "bad" algae, as it is active and in in large numbers consumes phosphates and other nutrients.