boil and process with pyrohydrol

Excuse me, only pyrohydrol will help, there are no simpler drugs?

yes, you can ask her at the pharmacy, they will tell you where you can get it, there are no special problems, just take care of your hands, you can only work with it with gloves

Good afternoon! find hunting magazine number 7 for 2009. everything is described there.

Sapan, where is the promised rug.

Have you dumped me?!

You can buy hydroperite at the pharmacy. In fact, the same perhydrol, only in tablets. 🙂 I wonder if it's in chlorine bleach?

So, I soaked the bone in Whiteness. I'll see what happens.

Nothing will come of it.

oos, it's out. The bone completely bleached to the state of printer paper in a couple of days. (The only spongy bone, partially dissolved.) Soaked in chlorine bleach "Whiteness"

The whole world bleaches with hydrogen peroxide and does not realize that this problem is solved with ordinary Russian whiteness. Congratulations on the opening. Expect a yellowing state of the printer paper soon.

I bleached with peroxide, it was interesting to try bleach.

Bad idea with bleach. The whiteness remains. It's just that the bone is burned out but inorganic, and now it is gradually crumbling like chalk. It’s good that a lamb bone from a roast was taken for the experiment. 🙂

Trophaenbleiche 250ml. Composition for whitening trophies.

Application: Prepare a solution (15-30 g. Trophaenbleiche in 100 ml of cold water), put the bone into it and slowly heat to a boil, then leave to cool. After about 15 hours, remove the bone from the solution and rinse with water. If bleaching is insufficient, repeat the process. The solution, after use, is drained into the sewer.

I haven't tried it myself, I just remembered that there is such a thing.

The problem is not bleaching, but degreasing.

quote: The whole world bleaches with hydrogen peroxide

could you tell me how long to keep the skull in peroxide? is one day enough?

Good day, tell me about the bear skull. The skull is quite old, about 7 years old. brewed at the same time. Now I got it, I began to bleach it, with peroxide + ammonia, then with whiteness, but it does not bleach, but the color of the bone has improved significantly.

And what is usually done with the bones inside the cranium and nasal cavity? how to properly process them, or paint them with varnish?

quote: Originally posted by mamoot:

Can you tell me what else I can try to bleach?

Try to boil it for 20-30 minutes with some kind of degreasing agent (fairy, etc.), if it doesn’t help, you have to soak it in gasoline.

quote: then whiteness

I already had a sad experience with bleach:

quote: Bad idea with bleach. The whiteness remains. It's just a burnt bone

quote: How to make an animal skull white?

COLLEAGUES, there is a question in the TOPIC: How to make a fish skull white? The customer took out a brown-amber Marlin skull from the "attic", maybe someone whitened the spines of Whales and similar sea creatures? For the past 3.5 months I have been degreasing IT alternately in Gasoline, then in Acetone. it remains to arrange a "steam" bath! The process is VERY slow! What are some ideas?

Haven’t you tried cooking? Do the waste from the fish soup turn out to be white or not an option due to size or softness? Some museum workers kept whale bones at sea for several years before collecting the skeleton.

I only came across shark jaws. Whitening with peroxide did not give any special results, sharks, as you know, are cartilaginous fish and the jaws themselves remained yellowish anyway. I didn’t think of anything else but toning with a white matte color. .

Thanks, baby! You can not cook, the bone loses its elasticity. I will continue to “rinse” in heated solvents. And this is my SHARK. I also had to powder her nose!

Colleagues, I decided to show the result of whitening Marlin's skull in the final stage, so to speak!

Alexander, how long did the degreasing take?

Oleg, just stopped today. it's like a REPAIR! In work, I took the shard in November last year, AN ADVENTURE OF COURSE, but it was interesting to try. I led him through all sorts of processes, he begins to “spread” through the PUZZLES, it is very difficult to put it back together. I'll be sure to post the final version!

Sanya, hello. Have you tried coloring? Many are not shy in relation to animals, in principle, it doesn’t work out badly if it’s not super important for you to preserve nature.

For that, now I know: WHAT HOW MUCH, in every sense! Fish fat“faster” than that of mammals, it will break through any paint, varnish !!

NOW IT LOOKS LIKE THIS:

earlier, when I studied as a veterinarian, I boiled bones for tests in soda, I don’t remember the concentration, but it turned out specifically white

quote: Originally posted by Yur4er:

when I was studying to be a veterinarian, I boiled bones for tests in soda

quote: Originally posted by robinson777:

Good afternoon! find hunting magazine number 7 for 2009. everything is described there.

what concentration of peroxide should be and how long should a beaver's head be kept in it

quote: Originally posted by SStarley:

pinned))) magazines for 2009 in every kiosk heaps.

Degreasing and bleaching

No matter how the skull is cleaned, fat remains in the bones, which gives them yellow so the bones need to be degreased. by the most in a simple way is the soaking of the skull for a day in pure gasoline, then it is lowered into water and boiled quickly. In this case, fire safety measures are especially carefully observed.

For bleaching, you can use a 30% solution of hydrogen peroxide (H 2 O 2). The skull is immersed in the solution, making sure that it does not get on the horns, keeping for 15 minutes (no more). Using a solution of hydrogen peroxide of this concentration should be extremely careful not to damage the skin of the hands and not burn the clothes. The bleached skull is washed with water and dried.

The third method of rapid whitening is boiling the skull for 5–15 minutes (depending on the size of the skull) in a 25% ammonia solution (250 cm 3 per 1 liter of water). Make sure that the horns do not touch the water. At the end of boiling, a 33% solution of hydrogen peroxide is applied several times to the hot bones with a brush and, without washing it off, the skull is dried. It is better to work with hydrogen peroxide in rubber gloves.

The fourth method - the washed skull is covered with cotton wool or gauze soaked in a 7-10% hydrogen peroxide solution with the addition of 5 ml of 25% ammonia solution per 1 liter of water. Bleaching is carried out for 4-5 hours in a dark place.

Fifth method - the skull is soaked for 1-2 hours in water, then boiled for several minutes, after which it is taken out of the water, slightly dried and a 33% solution of hydrogen peroxide mixed to a density of sour cream with fine chalk or magnesium powder is applied to it, placed it in a dark damp place for 10-24 hours. Then the skull is washed with water and a brush, dried in the sun. Make sure that this solution does not get on the horns. After bleaching, light cosmetics of the horns and skull are allowed, light horns can be slightly tinted with a weak solution of potassium permanganate or infusion of walnut shells, for this the shell is dipped in hot water and infused for several hours.

It is necessary to tint the horns very carefully, since experts can give a discount for light horns during evaluation, and remove them from the competition for clumsily tinted horns.

Covering the horns with varnish or other dyes is not allowed, otherwise they will not be allowed to participate in competitions and exhibitions.

Before cosmetics, the skull should be tied in a plastic bag. The tips of the processes of deer antlers can be polished white with fine sandpaper. To give shine, dry horns are coated with a brush with paraffin or stearin dissolved in gasoline. After the solution has dried, the horns are polished to a shine with a shoe brush.

In order to eliminate the roughness on the skull, it is polished with fine sandpaper and rubbed with chalk powder dissolved in denatured alcohol. Talc is applied to a cleanly rubbed bone and covered with a thin layer of a liquid solution of a colorless synthetic varnish or the bones are rubbed with cotton wool soaked in polish. Such varnishing is usually carried out on the skulls of predatory animals.

How to whiten an animal skull at home

There are hunters who hang animal skulls on the wall as trophies. They shock others no worse than scarecrows.

Previously, skulls of bears, wolves or exotic animals: rhinos, crocodiles, elephants were very popular as decorations for hunting interiors. Nowadays, such trophies are also of scientific, hunting value. There are cases when the head of an animal is so damaged that the most best way out- do not suffer, but stop at only one skull. If you process the skull correctly, place it beautifully on a decorative stand, a stone, a saw cut of a tree, then such an item will decorate the wall not only of a hunting lodge, but also a wall with a hint of European-style renovation - in any city apartment. About the requirements that the stand must meet, we will talk further.

The whole process of working with the skull consists of the following stages: - skinning, removal of muscles, brain and blood from the skull; - digestion, removal of tendons and teeth; - removal of fat, bleaching and surface finishing; - arrangement of a trophy in a hunting interior. The trophy skull must be free of defects and flaws. The skin from the skull must be removed, and the muscles and tendons removed carefully so as not to damage it. We remove the skin from the head with our fingers; with a knife we ​​only cut the neck, remove the eyes and muscles. The brain can be removed through a hole in the back of the head with a wire spiral, and its remnants and brain film - with a strong jet of water and tweezers. If conditions permit, the skull is cleaned of blood in running water at a temperature of 10-18 °C. If the skull is cleaned in still water, table salt is added to make a 1% solution. The solution is often stirred and changed. The skull is boiled as we already know, and we put it only in cold, not hot water. We tie the lower part of the horns with a clean rag to avoid exposure to boiling water and steam, otherwise the natural color turns pale. When water boils, foam forms, dirt floats - they must be removed.

After boiling, we immerse the skull in clean running water for about 8 hours, then take it out and put it in the shade in a draft to dry. We clean the dried skull from fatty substances that act as dark spots. We remove them with a 10% solution of ammonia. The skull is placed in this solution for 24 hours. Chloroform (trichloromethane) and carbon tetrachloride(tetrachloromethane), gasoline and ether. It is enough to wipe the skull with them several times, and it will sparkle, “like new”. We bleach the skull in this sequence. We fill all the cavities of the skull with cotton. We wrap it in cotton wool and tie it with twine. We put the wrapped skull in a dish closed to light. Otherwise, under its action, hydrogen peroxide will turn into water. Pour hydrogen peroxide into the dishes to a height of 1-2 cm. Cotton wool absorbs it into itself. Whitening time - 15-20 hours. Dishes are closed all the time. The skulls of small animals can not be wrapped in cotton wool, but completely immersed in hydrogen peroxide. The bleaching time of such skulls is reduced to 4-5 hours. The optimal concentration of hydrogen peroxide is 7-10%, while hydrogen is leached with ammonia. Per liter of hydrogen peroxide requires 5 ml of a 25% ammonia solution; it speeds up the whitening process. In order for the skull to acquire ivory color after all these procedures, it is placed in a 1% solution of phosphoric acid for 3-6 days, depending on the size of the skull, or in a 10% solution of chloramine for 7 days. Previously, skulls were bleached in anthills, but ants still severely damage the surface and integrity of the skull.

After bleaching, we proceed to the finishing of the skull. It is not recommended to varnish it. We polish the rough surface of the skull with a mixture of one part of “elutriated” (hydraulically enriched) chalk and two parts of lime. The mixture is applied to the surface of the skull and polished with a clean cloth. For polishing, you can also use a mixture of "elubricated" chalk with denatured alcohol, reminiscent of sour cream in density. We polish not for the shine of the skull, but to smooth the surface on which dust lingers. We rub the skull with paraffin and polish it with a clean cloth. Dropped teeth and bones are returned back and glued. The whole process is described by me as required by the classical processing of skulls. At home, you may find an easier and more affordable way to process the skull. In the end, the skull itself, not even processed properly, already attracts the attention of others with its appearance. Now let's move on to the methods and requirements for placing skulls on decorative stands.

Stands can be wooden, stone and others, of any shape and for every taste, as long as they are in harmony with the skull and with the decor in the house. Skulls, just like the horns and stuffed animal heads, are wonderfully combined with natural materials such as stone, skin, fur, bark, reeds, wood with or without bark, bast. The stand should not be decorated in such a way that it attracts more attention than the trophy itself. Care must be taken to ensure that the trophy stands out in its natural color: white on a darker stand, dark on a white stand. It will not be difficult for you to choose one or another stand for your trophy in order to fulfill your plan.

A few lines about horns. If the hunter spends a lot of time in the forest, hunting, then he will have horns - a hunting trophy. Every self-respecting hunter strives for one thing - to keep this beauty as long as possible and show off to friends.

Horns can be not only "taken away" from the beast, but simply found. Consequently, the horns are not only trophy, but also discarded. Trophy horns can be with a part of the skull, without a skull, not even all the horns, but only their fragments. In any case, it is desirable that the horns are not damaged: rodents, as well as hares, like to feed on discarded horns. The bases of the horns must be strong enough to be screwed to a stand or wall. If a appearance the horns are not pretty enough, they are tinted and varnished. For normal man who knows how to hold a screwdriver or a hammer in his hands, attaching the horns to a stand or to a wall is not difficult. The main thing is to be beautiful and reliable.

Types and properties of skins

The main mistakes when shooting the skins of ungulates, made by hunters

The second circular incision was made not behind the shoulder blades, but closer to the base of the neck.

The third incision was made not along the yal, but along the bottom of the neck. This is not permissible, since in order to extract the skull with horns, you still have to make an upper incision.

When removing the skull, the ears are cut not along the ear canal, but along the ear cartilages.

Cuts on the eyelids and nose. Not inverted ears.

The lower part of the skin of the sternum and front groins is missing.

If the raw material is frozen, do not try to get the tongue out unless you can do it carefully without cutting the skin.

One of the most necessary items of hunting equipment is a tactical (barrel lantern), which will not let you down in any unforeseen situations.

The information posted on the site is for informational purposes and is not a public offer.

Among the hunters you can meet a considerable number of real collectors. In their collections, you can often find exhibits of ungulates, in particular their skulls and horns. Such an exhibit is the pride of any hunter and a real hunting trophy. If desired, such a trophy can be made by hand.

Brief information about ungulates

Among ungulates, hunters are mainly interested in two families - full-horned and bovids. Let's consider them in a little more detail.

1. Bovid family- the most large group artiodactyls, numbering about 50 genera and 130 species. They differ from their relatives in the structure of the horns, which fall off every year, and then grow again. Bovids have sharp bone outgrowths on their foreheads, pointed in shape, which are surrounded by a horn case. These growths grow in length constantly, and at the base they constantly become thicker. New layers are formed on them, which for them also become a case. Thus, they grow in many layers from year to year.
2. Deer family. Their horns are formed on the bone processes of the frontal bones, grow and fall off annually. This is a process that ossifies, is not covered with a horny sheath, as in bovids. After the antlers fall off, in deer, the bone stump is overgrown with a cartilaginous cap covered with wool. A new horn develops from this cap, they are very sensitive, but as they grow, they harden and ossify.

How to choose horns for trophies

There are several simple rules, according to which it is necessary to select the horns of artiodactyls, from which a hunting trophy will be made.

• The horns, which are about 2-3 years old and have already been shed by animals, are not suitable for a trophy, because they have lost their strength and color qualities. They can only be used for making souvenirs and crafts.
• For a good trophy, fresh, untouched by rodents and without damage, artiodactyl horns are suitable.
• In order to wash the dirt, it is unacceptable to use water, this will spoil the structure of the fabric and mold will appear.

How to handle

As an example, we will consider the features of processing elk antlers.

In order for the trophy to look good and be stored for a long time, it is necessary to process it correctly:

1. Let the trophy dry a bit.
2. Remove dirt with a soft-bristled brush.
3. Polish with a natural cloth using wax.

After processing, the trophies are fixed on a stand. Thus, you can easily figure out how to make deer antlers with your own hands.

Stages of processing the skull

When the task is - how to make a skull, then there are several stages in which it is necessary to process it.

When processing, you must follow all the steps:

1. Without using a knife, the skin, muscles and adipose tissue are first removed from the head. With a knife, only the eyelids are cut off and the tendons are cut off.
2. Removal of the brain. To do this, they take a wire, twist it in the form of a spiral and insert it into a hole in the back of the head. With the help of a wire, the brain is "shaken" and then removed through this hole. If any part of the brain remains, then it is removed with elongated tweezers. Under running water, the head of the animal is washed from all residues.
3. In order to get rid of the tendons and teeth, the head is boiled. This is a very neat and meticulous process. To do this, take water from a stream, spring or melted water, you can rain. There should not be any in the water chemical elements and chlorine. Otherwise, the skull and horns may change color, collapse and lose their appearance. The dishes are taken in the appropriate sizes - the head must be completely placed in it. Poured cold water and the container is placed on fire. Animal horns do not touch water. To avoid touching, a plank is tied to them, and the bottom is wrapped with a dry cloth.
4. If the head of the animal is small, then it is boiled in one stage. A sign that the head is ready is that the tendons and muscles have pulled away from the bone. But this process takes several hours. When boiling, water will begin to evaporate, so you need to constantly add fresh water to the dishes, while avoiding getting on the horns.
5. After cooking, leave to cool for about 8 hours. They are not taken out of the water. Water should not be higher than 20 degrees, but not fall below 10.
6. After cooling, the head is taken out of the water and left to dry in a place where the sun's rays do not fall.

Filing

This process is very delicate and responsible, since it will be very unpleasant to spoil so many efforts made earlier.

There are several rules, following which, all the work done will not go to waste:

• The skulls of deer, rams and goats are not filed. The reason for this lies in the fact that this hunting trophy becomes more valuable with teeth. According to the wear of the teeth of the animal, in turn, connoisseurs can determine the age of the artiodactyl. In these animals, the lower jaw is attached to the upper jaw with a cord or wire.
• If there are massive and large horns in the hands, for example, of an elk, deer or deer, then only the base of the skull and teeth are removed. Meanwhile, the nasal, intermaxillary bones, as well as the eye sockets are left.

To prevent the skull from crumbling, it is sawn only while it is wet. If after boiling, dirt remains, then it can be rinsed in water with the addition of salt or soda. Wipe with ammonia from greasy stains.

How is the sawing off of the skull:

1. The base of the skull is sawn off with a joiner's or surgical saw, which has very fine teeth.
2. The cut line will be the part that remains above the water after immersion.
3. After this procedure, the skull is taken out of the water and along a wet line, mark with a pencil where the cut will take place.

Skull whitening

This stage prepares the hunting trophy for completion.

In order for bone whitening to be of high quality, you must again follow a few quite simple rules:

• Wrap the skull with cotton wool and tie with a cord. Do not wrap the horns. If there are not many bones, then wrapping is not necessary.
• In a sealed container, mix 25% ammonia and 15% hydrogen peroxide in a ratio of 5:1. These actions should be done with gloves, goggles and a mask so as not to damage the respiratory tract.
• The skull in the wrapper is filled with the mixture so that it does not fill the horns, but a couple of centimeters above the sawn off base.
• In order for bone whitening to be of high quality, the skull is kept in the composition for about 15 hours.
• In order for the bone to acquire a natural color, it is necessary to keep the skull in phosphoric acid (1%) from 3 to 6 days, then place it in chloramine for no more than a day.

Polishing

This stage is the final in the manufacture of the trophy.

1. For polishing, a mixture of Viennese lime and powdered chalk is prepared in a ratio of 2: 1. The mixture is applied to the skull with a dry cloth, not forgetting a single notch.
2. Another polishing method: denatured alcohol is mixed with chalk in a ratio of 2:1 and the skull is treated.
3. To give a matte sheen to the skull, it can be treated with paraffin, only its layer must be very thin.

A few tricks of the taxidermist

There are several secrets, using which to understand how to mold a skull perfectly:

• If the horns of the animal are of a light shade, then they can be made darker with a solution of potassium permanganate or an infusion of alcohol on a walnut. The horns are rubbed with one of the solutions. A large number of solutions do not need to be used - you can ruin everything. In order not to spoil the skull in this process, it must be wrapped in polyethylene.
• The processes of the horns are rubbed with soft sandpaper with a fine grain.
• When cooking, it happens that the teeth fall out. They are put in place and glued
• It is impossible to attach skulls made of clay, plastic or other materials to the horns.

Processing a skull without horns

At exhibitions, you can find options when the horns are displayed with a skull from a completely different animal. Avid exhibitors always have a few skulls in stock, made according to all the rules. How to make it?

In fact, skulls without horns are easier to bleach. To do this, after boiling, the bones are treated with 15% hydrogen peroxide or the wrapped skull is placed in the oven, heated to 80 degrees for five minutes. Then, when the gauze cools, it is moistened in turn in a solution of soda and alcohol. This procedure is done about three times. After these actions, the skull is dried and only after that a part of the skull is cut out. Where the stubs for the horns are located on the skull, two holes are cut out. The horns are attached to them.

After these steps, the skull is completely treated with acetone. The bases at the holes are laid with clay, and inside with epoxy or glue that does not allow water to pass through. A day later, the clay is removed, the skull is cleaned, and the joints are covered with colorless glue. The hole for the horns is treated with acetone and the edges are filled with glue, and the horns are already attached to the skull with wire.

So, making a hunting trophy in the form of horns with your own hands is not so difficult, but still this process requires endurance and patience.

Video

In our video you will find step by step instructions on the processing of the skull on the example of a roe deer.

For many hunters, the purpose of hunting is to get trophies. Skins, fangs, horns are the most popular hunting trophies. Less popular are such trophies as animal skulls. This is due to the complexity of preserving and manufacturing such trophies. However, if you follow the instructions, this task may not be so difficult. Therefore, we would like to tell you how to properly file and process the skull of a hunted animal.

How to file a skull

First you need to carefully clean the skull from meat, brain and ligaments. You can read about it in separate article. Now
one must very skillfully, masterfully, one might say, proceed to filing. In animals such as deer, goats and rams,
the skull should preferably be preserved in its entirety. This trophy is much more valuable because
that by determining the wear of the teeth, it will always be possible to determine the age
the animal itself. And the lower jaw should preferably be attached to the trophy
or string, or thin wire.

In some cases, with horns, you can leave only a small
and a shapeless piece belonging to the frontal bones, the horns in this case can
lose its natural connection with the skull itself. processed in this way
the horns already look as if apart, but do not look like fighting and tournament
the weapon of a horned male. To avoid this, with the horns you need to leave the frontal and
nasal parts, as well as part of the parietal bone. If an animal has horns
huge and very massive, then remove only the cranial base with teeth.

To file the cranial base, use
surgical or ordinary carpentry saw with fine teeth. In advance
mark the line along which you will saw off. For this purpose, immerse the skull in
water, but in such a way that only parts to be
conservation along with the horns. Fix the skull in this position and outline now
pencil on the bones of the water level, then remove the skull from the pan and
line, planned in advance, lead the cut. When filing a skull, it should
keep in a state of moisture, otherwise those bones that remain dry will easily
crumble.

how to degrease and
bleachscull

Whatever method you use when cleaning the skull, in
bones, one way or another, will remain fat, and it gives an unsightly yellow tint,
and sometimes color. That's why bones need to be degreased. The easiest way -
is to soak the skull using pure gasoline for this (soaking time
approximately one day). Then lower the skull into the water and begin to boil quickly.
There is, of course, some danger in this method - carefully observe
fire safety to avoid undesirable consequences. Before,
how to whiten the skull, it is recommended to wash the horns with a brush in water, first
dissolving a little detergent in it (powder, for example).

When bleaching, you can use a 30% solution
perhydrol (hydrogen peroxide). Immerse the skull in this solution, but no more,
than fifteen minutes, make sure that this solution in no case
did not hit the area of ​​the horns. The use of a peroxide solution in the concentration
which is indicated, one must be extremely careful, because one can easily
damage your skin on your hands and ruin your clothes. Skull after bleaching
Rinse in running water and dry thoroughly.

Here is another way that you can quickly whiten the skull -
is to boil it for five to fifteen minutes (it all depends on the size
skulls) in ammonia (based on a 25% solution, i.e. 250 ml must be diluted
in one liter of water). Make sure that the horns do not come into contact with water in any way.
When finished boiling, on the bones, while they are hot, apply several times
brush hydrogen peroxide - 30% solution, without closing it. And then
dry the skull. When working with peroxide, it is better to use rubber
gloves so as not to hurt your hands.

There is also a third interesting way. After washing overlay the skull
cotton wool or gauze, previously soaked in a peroxide solution
hydrogen - it should be 7-10%, add 5 ml of ammonia to one liter of water -
the solution must be made 25%. Do bleach for about four or five
hours, the place for this should be as dark as possible.

And here is another way. Soak the skull for two
hours in water, then boil it for a few minutes. Then slightly
dry it and apply hydrogen peroxide on it - a 30% solution, which before
with this you need to mix to the consistency of sour cream with crushed powder of ordinary
chalk. At the same time, make sure that this mess does not fall on the horns. Place the skull in
dark place so that it is sufficiently moist and keep it there for about
ten hours to a day, then rinse thoroughly in running water,
brush and lay to dry in a sunny place.

After you have bleached it, you can make a light
cosmetics on the horns and skull. Light horns will look good on light
tint with weak potassium permanganate or walnut tincture. Drop the shell into
boiling water and insist for several hours. Tint the horns with a big
caution, because if the horns are light, the experts reduce the points when evaluating, and
if the horns are clumsily tinted, they are generally removed from the competition. varnish the horns
or some paints are not allowed, in such cases they are not allowed to
participation in exhibitions and competitions. Before
how to make cosmetics of the horns, the skull must be tied with a plastic bag.
Deer antler processes, or rather, their tips, can be polished white with
using fine sandpaper. And to give shine to dry horns, coat them with
stearin or paraffin with a brush - stearin and paraffin must be dissolved
in gasoline. As soon as the solution dries, brush the horns to a shine with a brush to
shoes.

To eliminate the roughness on the skull, it is necessary to
polishing, for this you need fine sandpaper. Wipe with chalk
powder, mixed in advance in denatured alcohol. After wiping clean the bone, cover it
synthetic varnish, but it must be colorless and applied in a very thin layer. Wipe
bone with cotton wool soaked in polish. This method of varnishing is usually done on
turtles are carnivorous animals.

Trophy horns - the pride of the hunter

As we mentioned in the first part about making hunting trophies, among the numerous trophy collections, the most valuable are exhibits of ungulates, in particular skulls with horns. Such a trophy, and even an animal obtained with one's own hand, is the pride of any hunter. Most often, for the manufacture of a trophy, the head is given into the hands of a specialist. But if desired, everyone can independently make a high-quality trophy skull. This will be a huge additional reason to be proud of yourself, and for the family budget - a big savings.

As we mentioned in the first part, among the numerous trophy collections, the most valuable are exhibits of ungulates, in particular skulls with horns. Such a trophy, and even an animal obtained with one's own hand, is the pride of any hunter. Most often, for the manufacture of a trophy, the head is given into the hands of a specialist. But if desired, everyone can independently make a high-quality trophy skull. This will be a huge additional reason to be proud of yourself, and for the family budget - a big savings.

A trophy exhibition is a way to show yourself as a hunter and see what others are worth

A bit of zoology

All ungulates are classified as bovids - bulls, yaks, bison, rams, goats, chamois, saigas, goitered gazelles, antelopes and full-horned (deer). Deer include fallow deer, reindeer, elk, muntjac, white-tailed deer, musk deer, deer.

A distinctive feature of full-horned ungulates is the presence of bony horns. Female deer, elk, roe deer (except female reindeer) do not have horns.

Full-horned ungulates are the most coveted trophies

The second stage is the removal of the brain. To do this, take the wire, twist it into a spiral and insert it into the hole in the back of the head. With a wire, the brain is shaken up and taken out through this hole. Remains are removed with long tweezers. Then through it is necessary to rinse repeatedly under a strong stream of water.

Water should be taken from rain, spring, stream, melt water - without the slightest chemical impurities and chlorine. Otherwise, the skull and horns may change color, lose their attractiveness, and even collapse when boiled for a long time.

For cooking, you need to take such a vessel so that the skull fits completely there. It needs to be filled cold water and put on fire. At the same time, the horns of roe deer, deer, and elk themselves should not come into contact with water. To do this, they tie a transverse plank to them, and lower part must be wrapped in dry cloth.

Boiling the skulls of small animals is done in one step until the muscles and tendons move away from the bones. This may take several hours. Boiling water must be constantly replenished to its original level - carefully pour boiling water along the walls of the container so that splashes do not fall on the horns. After boiling, the skull is left to cool in water for 8 hours. At the same time, the water temperature is not higher than 20 and not lower than 10 degrees. Next, remove the skull and let it dry in the shade, out of direct sunlight.

Trophy antlers of an elk - high-class exhibition samples

Skull filing

This is a very important stage, because it would be a shame to spoil the trophy after the most unpleasant operations have been completed.

Rule 1. The skulls of deer, rams and goats are not filed.

The fact is that a trophy with teeth is very valuable, because the age of the animal can be determined by the wear of the teeth. For these ungulates, the lower jaw is attached to the upper part with a wire or cord.

Rule 2. If the horns are very massive - in an elk, or red deer, then the base of the skull and teeth are removed - the nasal, intermaxillary bones and eye sockets are left.

Sawing off the base of the skull should be done with a carpenter's or, better, a fine-toothed surgical saw. At the same time, the sawing line is set as follows: the skull must be immersed in water so that the necessary parts remain above the surface. Then carefully remove the skull and mark the water level with a pencil, sawdust will be made along this line.

Be sure to do it in a wet state of the skull so that it does not crumble.

If after cooking the skull remains dirty, then it must be washed with water with the addition of table salt or soda. Then clean from greasy stains - with the help of ammonia, you can wipe with chloroform, in extreme cases - with gasoline or pharmacy ether.

Skull whitening

This is the stage of preparing the trophy for exhibition condition. In order to qualitatively whiten the bone, the entire skull is wrapped with cotton wool and tied with a cord. The horns remain open. If the bones are small - you can not wrap. Next, in a closed container, a 25% ammonia solution is diluted with hydrogen peroxide (15%). The ratio of components is 5 to 1. All this must be done with gloves, goggles and a breathing mask. The wrapped skull must be carefully poured with this solution (2 cm higher, but without affecting the horns). Exposure time - 15 hours for small skulls and 20 for large ungulates.

Skull polishing

This is the last procedure in the manufacture. For polishing, use the following mixture: 2 parts of Vienna lime and 1 part of powdered chalk. It must be applied with a clean, dry cloth and lightly rub the entire surface and all recesses. Second recipe: 1 part crayon to 2 parts denatured alcohol. If you like the matte sheen of the bone, treat the skull with paraffin, gently rubbing it into the thinnest layer.

By the way, when participating in exhibitions of hunting trophies, the use of light cosmetics is allowed.

If the horns are very light, then they can be darkened - rub with a solution of potassium permanganate or alcohol infusion walnut shells. This must be done, adhering to a sense of proportion - too much potassium permanganate will simply ruin the horns. So that the skull itself does not suffer - it is wrapped in a plastic bag. The processes of the horns must be polished with a soft fine sandpaper.

If the skull was supposed to be made with teeth, sometimes they fall out during digestion. They must be inserted into place and fastened with quick-setting glue or eco-adhesive.

Even at exhibitions, it is allowed to show exhibits with an imitation of a skull - made of wood, clay, plastic, plaster or metal. There are no special rules here, the main thing is that the stand should be visually similar in shape to the skull or head of an animal.

Processing of skulls without horns

It also allows the variant when the horns are exhibited with the skull of another animal. For example, deer antlers on. For this purpose and for many collectors, there are a couple of prepared skulls with stumps. Such skulls are prepared in accordance with all the rules from the extracted animals that have already shed their horns. Before last stage processing, special fasteners are inserted into the hemp, on which the horns will be attached.

Patterned decoration on the skull is a rare but very valuable way to present a trophy

Skulls without horns can be bleached more easily than those with horns.

After boiling and cleaning, the bone is treated with a 15% hydrogen peroxide solution. Or another way - to wrap the skull with natural cloth - you can use gauze in several layers and place it in the oven, where I slowly heat it up to 70-80 degrees for a few minutes. Further, after cooling, the fabric is alternately moistened with a solution of soda and denatured alcohol - so 2-3 times. Then the skull is dried, clamped with a vise and the lower part of the skull is cut out. In place of the stumps, holes of 6 mm are drilled - there the horns will subsequently be attached. Hollow tubes in the form of stumps, 3-4 cm long, are inserted into these holes.

Next, the skull must be thoroughly wiped with acetone, from the outside, the base of the stumps should be sealed with clay, and from the inside - with epoxy or any water-repellent glue. After 24 hours, the clay must be removed with a damp cloth, the skull thoroughly cleaned, dried and the joints covered with transparent glue. The transition from the forehead to the horns must be carefully processed - to make the transition as natural as possible. For this, a mixture of clay, chalk, nitrolac and glue is prepared. The horns are attached with screws that are inserted into the drilled base. Be sure to treat the hole with acetone for degreasing and fill the screw with glue. The skull is attached to the stand with a wire.

Video - deer antlers

Moose antlers - home collection video

Products made of ivory appeared in the days of the primitive communal system, although at that time they were essential items related to the life of people: arrowheads, knives. Later, the use of tusks became widespread in art and was considered a sign of luxury and wealth. Yes, in Ancient Greece wooden statues were erected, which were covered with ivory plates, but, unfortunately, no examples of this art have been preserved. Jewelry, jewelry boxes, furniture decoration elements, attributes for various board games(chess, dominoes), and even keys for musical instruments.

In our time, the manufacture of bone products is a fairly rare occurrence. This is due to the widespread restriction on the extraction and trade of this material. Therefore, small jewelry is most often made from it, famous for its amazingly beautiful carved ornaments, original texture and variety of shades, from milky to golden and even brown.

When purchasing an ivory jewelry, you need to remember the rules for caring for this rather delicate thing. Firstly, it is not recommended to store ivory in closed boxes, as the lack of sunlight contributes to the yellowing of the product. Secondly, if you put on a bone ring, you need to be very careful and not allow strong blows. Lack of care when wearing can lead to the formation of cracks, through which the ring may burst in the future. If such a nuisance nevertheless occurred, you can glue the product with transparent glue. Thirdly, jewelry should not be allowed to get wet so that the bone does not begin to exfoliate. Therefore, before showering or washing your hands, remove your ivory items and leave them in a dry, bright place.

The relief surface of carved jewelry gets dirty quickly and requires delicate cleaning. Severe dirt is removed with a solution of mild soap, after a little brushing, and quickly wiped off, preventing complete wetting. If the product is not very dirty, you can wipe it with a soapy cloth and dry it immediately. In the event that you are the owner of, for example, an old bone box of high artistic value, you should not clean it yourself, but leave it to professionals.

"Whiter than white": how to clean favorite decoration from bone

Ivory jewelry is very durable and, according to experts, does not require special care. They are not afraid of water, sun or intense wear. However, over the years, they can fade, and their color can lose its whiteness. Restoring the beauty of your favorite jewelry is not at all difficult: the procedures will not require a significant investment of your time, special skills or expensive funds - some of them can be found in almost every home.

To whiten the "bone" product at home, you can use several methods.

The first of them is "whitening" with hydrogen peroxide. It is considered one of the most reliable ways. When decomposed, peroxide releases oxygen, oxidizing colored substances into colorless compounds, and decomposes most quickly into alkaline environment and when heated.
When buying a 3% peroxide solution, remember that the jewelry is completely immersed in it: it is obvious that you will need a different volume to clean earrings and a bone bracelet. The container with the product must be placed in a very warm place- with a temperature of +30, +35 ° C. After 24 hours, your jewelry will only need to be washed, left to dry in the air or wiped with a soft cloth.

To use the second method, you will need baking soda and bleach. It is necessary to make a 5% soda solution from soda, and mix lime with water in any ratio. First, the product is thoroughly washed in a soda solution, then covered with a freshly prepared slurry of bleach. It should lie in it for 10-12 hours. After that, it remains only to rinse the gruel with running water and wipe it thoroughly.

The third method involves pre-washing the product with soapy water mixed with a drop of ammonia. After it, you need to immerse it in a 1% hydrosulfite solution and wait until it turns white. Rinse the bone product with warm clean water. It is advisable to add a little vinegar to it.

When choosing the fourth method, it is proposed to add a little ammonia not to a soap solution, but to a 3% peroxide solution. The product must lie completely immersed in this liquid for at least 12 hours, after which it must be washed and wiped.

There is another, more radical way to clean the "bone" product - with the help of denatured alcohol, gasoline, turpentine and even oxygen-containing bleach. After that, the product can be polished with chalk powder, rubbing it with a piece of leather dipped in denatured alcohol.

As you can see, returning the original beauty to your favorite bone beads is not at all as troublesome as it might seem. And besides, it is not at all expensive.

Ivory is back in fashion

Bone is perhaps the earliest material that primitive man began to use. During the excavations of the Neolithic era, bone jewelry, carvings and figurines from bone were found. Primitive wore them in the form of various jewelry, amulets and necklaces, but used not only the fangs of predators, but also the teeth of other animals - sperm whales, narwhals, wild boars, sharks and, of course, elephants. Pendants, knife handles were made from thin plates of the milk teeth of an elephant, they were used for inlay and decoration of other interior and household items.

Since ancient times, bone products have been valued for their ease of processing, density, pleasant cream color and relative durability. True, over time, the bone begins to turn yellow, especially in dampness, for example, this is how figurines, beads or keys on old pianos changed color.

Today, bone products are especially highly valued, but for many household and everyday purposes, such as the manufacture of knife handles or piano keyboards, cheap celluloid materials are used.

Mammoth tusks, whale teeth, and other "bones".

Interestingly, elephant tusks, bones of sperm whales, walruses, narwhals, mammoths, less often hippopotamus teeth, as well as plant materials (outwardly similar in structure and color) began to be called ivory.

Ivory is the tusks of elephants (reaching 3 meters in length), which are the most valuable jewelry and ornamental raw materials. From tusks African elephants living in Ethiopia, Kenya and Tanzania, receive the best raw materials of a uniform white or light fawn color with a slight light green tint; slightly worse bone Asian species elephants (Sri Lankan, Thai or Indian).

Mammoth bone is the tusks of female and male mammoths who lived in North America, Asia and Europe more than 4 thousand years ago. The tusks of these animals were more than 2 meters. Color from white with shine (Siberian) to dark or light brown (Alaska and Great Britain).

The bone of sperm whales is the teeth of various cetaceans, some of which reach more than 10 meters in length. They were used to make small figurines, decorative necklaces covered with ornaments and netsuke. The color is uneven, from light brown to white color with a porcelain or silky sheen.

Walrus bone - teeth and fangs of walruses living in the coastal zones of the Arctic. Reach 0.75 meters in length; were used in the past to make decorative figurines and figurines (Eskimo carving), sometimes used for inlay in weapons. Cream to light yellow in color with a silky and porcelain sheen.

"Plant Bone" for a long time used in the manufacture of buttons, reels, buttons, imitation of ivory products and became known in European countries only at the beginning of the 19th century. These were the seeds of the bone palm South America which are pure white.

imitation bone

The most common bone imitation is plastic, formerly known as celluloid or xylolite. This material was first obtained in England in 1865 as the main product in the interaction of camphor alcohol and nitrocellulose. The impetus for this invention was a strong desire to find cheap substitutes for ivory, which was traditionally used in the manufacture of billiard balls.