Location of the Caucasus Mountains on the map. The Caucasus Mountains - the impregnable border between Europe and Asia
Our planet has the most beautiful mountain system. It is located on, or to be more precise, between two seas - the Caspian and the Black. It bears a proud name - the Caucasus Mountains. It has coordinates: 42°30′ north latitude and 45°00′ east longitude. The length of the mountain system is more than one thousand kilometers. Geographically, it belongs to six countries: Russia and the states of the Caucasus region: Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan, etc.
Until now, it has not been clearly stated which part of the mainland the Caucasus Mountains belong to. Elbrus and Mont Blanc are fighting for the title of the most. The latter is in the Alps. The geographical position according to the plan is easy to describe. And this article will help you.
Borders
At times Ancient Greece it was the Caucasus and the Bosphorus that separated the 2 continents. But the map of the world was constantly changing, peoples migrated. In the Middle Ages, the Don River was considered the border. Much later, in the 17th century, a Swedish geographer led her through the Urals, down the river. Embe to the Caspian Sea. His idea was supported by the scientists of that time and the Russian Tsar. According to this definition, mountains belong to Asia. On the other hand, in the Great Encyclopedia of Larousse, the border is designated south of Kazbek and Elbrus. Thus, both mountains are in Europe.
Describe the geographic location Caucasus mountains as accurate as possible is somewhat difficult. The opinion regarding territorial affiliation changed solely for political reasons. Europe was singled out as a special part of the world, linking this with the level of development of civilization. The border between the continents gradually shifted to the east. She became a moving line.
Some scientists, noting the differences in the geological structure of the massif, propose to draw a boundary along the main ridge of the Greater Caucasus. And this is not surprising. mountains allow it. Its northern slope will refer to Europe, and the southern slope to Asia. This issue is being actively discussed by scientists from all six states. The geographers of Azerbaijan and Armenia believe that the Caucasus belongs to Asia, and the scientists of Georgia - to Europe. Many well-known authoritative people believe that the entire massif belongs to Asia, so Elbrus will not be considered the highest point in Europe for a long time.
System Composition
This massif consists of 2 mountain systems: the Lesser and Greater Caucasus. Often the latter is presented as a single ridge, but this is not so. And if you study the geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains on the map, you will notice that it does not belong to those. The Greater Caucasus stretches for more than a kilometer from Anapa and the Taman Peninsula almost to Baku itself. Conventionally, it consists of the following parts: Western, Eastern and Central Caucasus. The first zone stretches from the Black Sea to Elbrus, the middle zone - from the highest peak to Kazbek, the last - from Kazbek to the Caspian Sea.
The western chains originate from the Taman Peninsula. And at first they look more like hills. However, the farther to the east, the higher they become. Their peaks are covered with snow and glaciers. The ranges of Dagestan are located in the east of the Greater Caucasus. These are complex systems with river valleys forming canyons. About 1.5 thousand square meters. km of the territory of the Greater Caucasus is covered with glaciers. Most of they belong to central District. The Lesser Caucasus includes nine ranges: Adjaro-Imeretinsky, Karabakh, Bazum and others. The highest of them, located in the middle and eastern parts, are Murov-Dag, Pambaksky, etc.
Climate
Analyzing the geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains, we see that they are located on the border of two climatic zones - subtropical and temperate. Transcaucasia belongs to the subtropics. The rest of the territory belongs to the zone temperate climate. North Caucasus- warm region. Summer there lasts almost 5 months, and in winter it never falls below -6 °C. It is short - 2-3 months. The climate is different in the highlands. There it is influenced by the Atlantic and the Mediterranean, so the weather is more humid.
Due to the complex relief in the Caucasus, there are many zones that differ from each other. This climate allows the cultivation of citrus fruits, tea, cotton and other exotic crops that are suitable for temperate nature. weather conditions. The geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains largely affects the formation temperature regime in nearby areas.
Himalayas and Caucasus mountains
Often at school, students are asked to compare the geographical location of the Himalayas and the similarity in only one thing: both systems are in Eurasia. However, they have many differences:
- The Caucasus Mountains are located on the Himalayas, but they belong only to Asia.
- The average height of the Caucasus Mountains is 4 thousand meters, the Himalayas - 5 thousand meters.
- Also, these mountain systems are located in different climatic zones. The Himalayas are mostly in the subequatorial, less - in the tropics, and the Caucasus - in the subtropical and temperate.
As you can see, these two systems are not identical. The geographical position of the Caucasus Mountains and the Himalayas is at some points similar, at others not. But both systems are quite large, beautiful, amazing.
They are no less famous in the world than the Cordillera, a mountain system that stretches along the western outskirts of North and South America for as much as eighteen thousand kilometers in length and in width for 1600 kilometers, with the highest peak of Denali at 6190 meters above sea level in North America, in also Aconcagua - 6963 meters above sea level in South America. Many countries border the Cordillera - Mexico, Venezuela, Colombia, Ecuador, Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile. No less famous is the Cordillera mountain system of the Himalayas with the highest peak Chogori - 8611 meters above sea level on the border of China and Pakistan and with another peak Lhotse, exceeding a height of eight kilometers on the border of China and Nepal. On the globe Tibet is also admired with the highest peak in the world, Everest - 8852 meters above sea level. However, on Earth there are other mountain systems on different continents, attracting attention and which thousands and thousands of brave conquerors of peaks strive to climb.
From the legendary Taman to the gray Caspian
The Great Caucasus Mountains are essentially two mountain systems - the Greater and Lesser Caucasus in Eurasia. They stretched for more than 1,100 kilometers from northwest to southeast, and more specifically, from the Taman Peninsula in the region and along the Black Sea coast to the Absheron Peninsula near the gray Caspian and near the capital of Azerbaijan, Baku. The maximum width of the mountain system is 180 kilometers. Compared to the Cordillera, this is almost a ninth, but nevertheless noticeable and being the root cause of the appearance of a subtropical zone in Russia. In which over 15 million of our fellow citizens and guests from near and far abroad improve their health and have a good rest every year. The Greater Caucasus is divided into three parts: Western - from the Black Sea to Elbrus; Central - from Elbrus to Kazbek and finally the Eastern Caucasus - from Kazbek to the Caspian Sea. As for the height above sea level, then at Everest it is 5642 meters, at Kazbek 5033. total area The Great Caucasus Mountains are 1,400 square kilometers. In part, this is the land of eternal snows and glaciers. The area of glaciers goes off scale for 2050 square kilometers. A major center of icing is Mount Elbrus plus the Bezengi wall - 17 kilometers.
The land of five dozen nations
The Great Caucasus Mountains are densely populated. Meaning its foothills. Abkhazians, Ingushs, Ossetians, Armenians, Azerbaijanis, Adyghes (Circassians) and many other nationalities live here. common name- Caucasian peoples. Most of them are Muslims. But Christians are also widely represented - Ukrainians, Georgians, Russians, Armenians, as well as a noticeable part of Ossetians and Abkhazians. By the way, Armenian and Georgian churches are the oldest in the world. Thanks largely to them, these two peoples of the Great Caucasus have retained their identity, customs and customs. We add to this - the Caucasian peoples for a hundred years were under foreign control - the Turks, Persians, Russians. Now others have gained independence, become sovereign.
twenty-five sky-high peaks
That is how many of them the Great Caucasus has from Elbrus to Dombay-Ulgen - 4046 meters above sea level. Popular with climbers: Dykhtau - 5204 meters above sea level; Pushkin peak - 5100 m., we have already mentioned Kazbek; Shota Rustaveli - 4960m., Gulchi-Tau - 4447 meters, etc.
The Great Caucasus is abundant in rivers, lakes and waterfalls
Originating at the mountain peaks, some flow into - Bzyb, Kodor, Ingur (Inguri), Rioni, Mzymta, etc. B - the largest Kuban in the Krasnodar Territory. And in the Caspian - Kura, Samur, Terek, Sunzha, Baksan - there are more than two dozen of them in total. Among the majestic Caucasus Mountains is the world-famous Lake Sevan (Armenia). It is located at an altitude of 1900 meters above sea level. Its area is 1240 square kilometers, the depth is from twenty to over eighty meters. 28 rivers flow into the lake, but only one flows out - Hrazdan, a tributary of the Araks. By the way, it will be noted - both the Caspian and the Black Seas are the remnants of the once world ocean Tethys. The names of the Black Sea have changed since ancient times - Khazar, Sugde, Temarun, Cimmerian, Akhshaena, Blue, Tauride, Holy and even Ocean. The current name is due to its color in raging storms. It really does look black. In the old days, he was also fearfully called not hospitable, angry. The Caspian reservoir got its name from the tribes of horse breeders who once lived near its shores - the Caspians. It was also called Girkansky, Dzhurazhansky, Khvalynsky, Derbent - more than seven dozen names in total.
And about one more unique water body of the Great Caucasus - the Zeygalan waterfall, fantastic in terms of natural beauty (otherwise it is also called the Great Zeygelan waterfall). He is located in North Ossetia in the valley of the river Midagrabindon, seven kilometers south of the village of Jimara. The height of the fall is 600 meters. Translated from Ossetian - "falling avalanche". It is one of the ten most grandiose and famous waterfalls in the world. It pushes back fellow Gavarni in France - 422 meters high and Krimml in Austria - 380 meters. It originates from under the hanging glacier at an altitude of 650-700 meters. The peak flow occurs in the summer months of July-August. In winter it dries up and is marked only by ice smudges on the rocks. The waterfall area is part of the Kazbek-Dzhimarai mountain junction, the largest not only in North Ossetia, but in the entire Great Caucasus. The place is delightful in its beauties - on the slopes of the mountains, a sea of flowers, herbs, aromas of alpine meadows are dizzy. But you should be careful - the waterfall is dangerous for people: rockfalls happen, sometimes pieces from a melting glacier fly from above. Nevertheless, the waterfall is actively visited. Tourists shoot a grandiose panorama of the waterfall with a camera or TV camera.
Flora and fauna of the Great Caucasus
As for the flora, it is represented by almost six and a half thousand flowering plants. Of these, 166 are unique to mountains. The subtropics are famous for dozens of palm species. Relic juniper and pistachio grow here; Pitsunda pine, oaks, hornbeams, mimosa, tulip tree, magnolias, bamboo - you can’t list all the tree species. Individual patriarchal oaks over a thousand years old. Tourists are advised to walk in the juniper groves. Especially for those with asthma or bronchitis. The breath of juniper kills all microbes and viruses in a person in minutes. A day, two, three walks, and you seem to be born again! It also contributes to sea air, densely infused with salts of bromine, calcium, potassium, etc.
As for the fauna of the Great Caucasus Mountains, it is also rich and diverse here. You will also come across wild boars (beware of mothers and fathers with cubs: the fangs of males are sharp, and there were cases when a meeting with wild boars ended in serious injuries or, worse, death!). There are also chamois, mountain goats, and bears. Once lived both lynxes and leopards. Asiatic lions and tigers. The Caucasian bison became extinct in 1925. The last elk was killed in 1810. A great variety of invertebrates - only spiders in a thousand species. The Great Caucasus is also the habitat of golden eagles, which are caught by poachers and sold abroad for big money. They like to hunt with golden eagles in the Caucasus itself, and in Kazakhstan, and in Kyrgyzstan, and in Saudi Arabia, in other regions and countries of the planet.
Stele of the Soaring Eagle
It appeared in 2013 near the resort villages and Supsekh, not far from Varvarovka, from where the Turkish Stream gas pipeline originates, and was opened as a race for the Day of Russia. Nine kilometers from Anapa. The authors are the sculptor V. Polyakov in collaboration with the architect Y. Rysin.
The monument is made of cold bronze, which guarantees its durability and which is not afraid of any weather changes. A soaring eagle with a wide wingspan and head proudly raised to the sky means the beginning of the Great Caucasus Mountains. In front of the stele there is a platform for vehicles. Tourists, and here they are, passing to other resort villages of Bolshoi and Maly Utrish, thousands and thousands will definitely stop and take pictures or film the monument on a video camera. By the way, the "Soaring Eagle" offers a stunning view of Anapa and the bays, in which the city is freely spread out (in ancient times it bore the mysterious ancient Greek name Gorgippia, and the slave trade was actively conducted in it, its own coins were minted, and representatives of the nobility from different regions of the Caucasus came and sailed here for white-faced brides!). AT good weather the coast is visible up to the bank of Mary Magdalene, which is near the village - and where divers come and flock not only from all over Russia, but also from abroad. So, the Great Caucasus Mountains begin from the foothills and, in particular, from Bald Mountain with a height of only 319 meters above sea level, other hills are even lower. The foothills enter the very beginning of the Semisamsky ridge, which is part of the chain of the Caucasus Mountains. And Bald Mountain is called because of the absence of any vegetation on it at all. No, no, herbs and flowers are found there. But not more. Let us remind you once again - from the center of Anapa to Bald Mountain is nine kilometers, and from the outskirts of the city it is three times less. And with your hand, as they say, file up to the Small and. And these places are well known to tourists.
Near Bolshoi Utrish, one of the main attractions of the beginning of the Great Caucasus is a dolphinarium on the high seas and with a theater. AT high season There are several performances every day. Artists are sea animals. Towards the end of a kind of performance, bottlenose dolphins deftly jump onto the platform and willingly take pictures with everyone or filmed on a television camera. You can hug them heartily, kiss them or swim in the waters of the dolphinarium. Meanwhile, the seal, leaning on its tail, recklessly applauds the audience with its flippers. On the Big Utrish, according to legends, the hero Prometheus was chained to one of the rocks, who gave people the sacred fire and thereby caused fierce anger from the main god of Olympus, Zeus the Thunderer. Zeus ordered the disobedient to be chained to a rock with strong chains, and a bloodthirsty eagle flew to the martyr to torment his liver with sharp claws. True, residents of neighboring Sochi Anapa object, de Prometheus was chained in the Eagle Rocks area near the former capital of the 2014 Winter Olympics. And they even built a monument to the hero - Prometheus is standing on a mountain with chains torn in his hands, and he has a proud look of a winner! And yet, the assertion of the Sochi residents raises doubts: Eagle Rocks are located far from the sea, near a fast river. But in the open-air museum in the center of Anapa "Gorgippiya" they found a crypt with frescoes of the exploits of another mythological hero - Hercules. And from the myths of Ancient Greece it is known for certain that it was Hercules who freed Prometheus from the chains. He drove the bloodthirsty eagle away. Who is right and who is wrong - let the experts decide. But in Anapa, which is no less than two and a half thousand years old, they stubbornly believe that the rock of Prometheus is still located on Bolshoi Utrish. In their opinion, another legend is irrefutable - de the Argonauts, led by their brave captain Jason, sailed past the rocks of the Big Utrish in search of the Golden Fleece. These are the secrets shrouded in the beginning of the Great Caucasus Mountains near Anapa and the stele of the Soaring Eagle.
Peaks from Novorossiysk to Gelendzhik
Today there are five resort areas: Sochi, Gelendzhik, Tuapse, Anapa and Taman. From each of them to the other, as they say, within easy reach. And all of them stretched along the Black Sea coast with the exception of Taman, which also has access to the Sea of Azov. And the Black Sea coast is mostly protected by mountains. Except for Anapa, where, as we have noticed, the Great Caucasus Mountains begin, but in general the municipality goes from the sea to the steppe expanses. And only in the region of Novorossiysk, as a continuation of the Semisamsky ridge with Lysa Gora, the foothills gradually rise, passing into the Markotkhsky ridge or on the Adygsky to Markotkh, stretching from Novorossiysk towards Gelendzhik for more than ninety kilometers. The highest mountain towering over Novorossiysk is Sugarloaf (558 meters above sea level). Gradually rising, the Markotkhsky ridge in some places goes up more than 700 meters. It consists of limestone, sandstone, clay, but its main component is marl, which is used to make cement. This is especially noticeable near Novorossiysk - factories for the production of this type of building materials are operating, and dust is around the pillar. Markotkhsky ridge, we note, runs parallel to and south of the Main Caucasian ridge. There are many sights between Novorossiysk and Anapa. In particular, the natural monument is the Sheskharis juniper woodland. O healing properties relic juniper we told above, therefore we will not repeat ourselves, we only emphasize that it is especially useful in the treatment of asthma and bronchi. From Anapa to Novorossiysk directly 40 kilometers, along the highway - 52. You can overcome them in a little more than forty minutes. And if you drive another 14 kilometers towards Gelendzhik, then you will find yourself on the Abrau Peninsula, at the southern end of which is Bolshoi Utrish with its famous dolphinarium on the high seas and a theater. But the main feature of the peninsula is undoubtedly the place Abrau-Dyurso, nestled among the mountains and part of the municipality of the resort city of Novorossiysk.
Specific estate of Russian sovereigns
The village has a double name -. And this has its own reason. One village is located in the mountains, among fantastically beautiful nature. There is a river of the same name and the largest freshwater lake in the Caucasus with the same name as the village. With a population of about three thousand, living like in paradise. Mild climate, warm winters and vineyards, vineyards, vineyards. Lake Abrau is 3100 meters long, 630 meters wide, 8 to 11 meters deep, by the way, there are fish in it. Gorgeous embankment - with gazebos, benches. In summer, the water is warm, and you can swim in the lake with pleasure. But you can plunge into the Black Sea. At the second village of the royal estate - Durso. Today there are recreation centers and health resorts where you can relax and get medical treatment.
The village of Abrau is known in the world for its exquisite taste of Russian champagne. At the origins of its production was Prince Lev Golitsyn. And the baton was picked up, surprisingly, by Joseph Stalin, who ordered the production of domestic champagne in the southern regions of the country and in Abrau, in particular. And such an indication of his was contained in a government decree of 1936. As for the production of champagne under the patronage of Golitsyn, its first batch was produced in 1898. And two years later, a powerful winery appeared in Abrau. A highway was laid from Novorossiysk to the village. Now in Abrau there is a museum of famous wines, as well as a company store where tourists can buy Russian champagne under the Abrau-Durso brand, dry wines and even cognac if they wish. There are many entertainments on the coast in Durso - water rides, "bananas", "pills", you can rush through the waves on jet skis with a breeze. And in Abrau, horseback riding along the local foothills, mountain tourism, including jeeping or extreme trips, but already on mountain bikes, are popular.
Markoth near Gelendzhik
To the famous, no less than Anapa, resort from Novorossiysk, the distance is mere trifles - directly three dozen kilometers, ten kilometers more along the highway. The trip will take somewhere a little over forty minutes. And now you will see the longest embankment in the world - 14 kilometers. With a graceful figure of a bride made of white marble, which is clearly visible from the height of the Markoth Range at 762 meters above sea level. Translated from the Adyghe "Markotkh" literally means "berry places", and here you can collect really tasty blackberries in buckets. It pricks, it's true, but what is called "you can't even catch a fish from a pond without difficulty!". There are several high peaks in the vicinity of Gelendzhik - Shakhan near the Zhane River (700 meters above sea level); Pshada - 741 meters near the river of the same name and 43 kilometers long, flowing into the Black Sea; Gebius - 735 meters above sea level. The Markothsky Range itself stretches along the Gelendzhik Bay - charmingly beautiful from a bird's eye view, and even more so from the tops of the surrounding mountains. The resort is famous for its Safari Park, where vivo live lions, tigers, bears and other animals. You can also watch their life from the chairlift. At the top of the Mrkotkh Ridge there is a fantastic forest with a goblin, a mermaid on the branches of a tree, Baba Yaga and other fairy-tale characters. From the observation deck, yachts and other vessels in the bay, gulls, cormorants, petrels, soaring over the blue sea with white crests of waves, are clearly visible.
And the mountains are getting higher, and the mountains are getting steeper!
And this is true if you go from Gelendzhik to the Bolshoi - the southern capital of Russia, stretching along the Black Sea coast for as much as one hundred and forty-five kilometers. There is only one city in the world longer than the former capital of the last Winter Olympic Games, in which our team triumphantly won and which amazed the planet with their colorful opening and closing ceremonies - the capital of Mexico, Mexico City - 200 kilometers. And in the native Fatherland, Sochi is ahead of Volgograd in length, stretching along the great Volga River for more than 90 kilometers. So about the height of the local mountains. Having overcome the distance from Gelendzhik to Sochi of 246 kilometers in almost four hours (the game is worth the candle!), You can climb, including as part of excursion groups, one of the surrounding peaks. You can start small - Mount Akhun - 663 meters above sea level. And then the height of the mountains will increase: Sugar, fifteen kilometers from the city - 1555 meters; Przegishva - 2216 meters; Big Weaver - 2368 meters; Achishkho - 2391 meters; Bzerli peak - 2482 meters; Perevalnaya South - 2503 meters; Stone pillar - 2509 meters; Pshekho-Su - 2743 meters; Oshten - 2804 meters; Fisht - 2853 meters; Peak Kozhevnikov - 3070 meters; Peak Needle - 3168 meters; Sugar Pseashkho - 3189 meters; Atheist - 3256 meters and finally the highest peak of the entire Kuban Tsakhvoa - 3346 meters above sea level. This is not so little, considering that the highest peak of the Great Caucasus Mountains and even Europe is Elbrus, 5642 meters above sea level.
The famous ski resort "Krasnaya Polyana"
It is located in the middle mountain river Mzymty, which in translation from the Adyghe - "mad", uncontrollable", "indomitable" - there are other interpretations. It flows into the Black Sea. It is 39 kilometers long. Over the gorge above it, the famous pedestrian suspension bridge is the longest in the world. From it lovers extreme people jump into the abyss on an elastic cable. Here, a popular attraction is a giant swing with a pendulum span of half a kilometer. From the west near Mount Achishkho, from the east - the Aibga ridge. There is also Fisht peak in the vicinity, after which the stadium was named, where the ceremonies were held opening and closing of the Winter Olympic Games in 2014. Krasnaya Polyana is a ski resort that can compete with its counterparts in Switzerland or other mountainous places on the planet. extra kilometers of snowy slopes of different difficulty levels - 6 green, 8 blue, 16 red and 6 black, experienced skiers and beginners can feel comfortable on them e and children. Among the independent ski resorts are Rosa-Khutor, Alpika-Service, Gorki Gorod and the GTZ Gazprom. Skiing during the day, discos, karaoke in the evening, pleasant evenings in cafes, restaurants, casinos. There will be enough places for everyone - hotels, guest houses, you can rent a cottage. There are no problems with transport. Adler is forty kilometers away. You can fly there by direct flights from many regions of Russia. And then rail transport with the famous "Swallows", or regular buses, even faster personal cars. The road will not seem tedious to you. Especially with such fantastic natural beauties! By the way, in Krasnaya Polyana there are enough bases for renting skis, snowboards, sleds and so on.
Arriving in Sochi for rest and treatment (it receives more than five million tourists a year, not including those who prefer snow tracks that operate from November to April inclusive, and sometimes grabbing the beginning of May), be sure to visit the Olympic Park. It is located near the Black Sea. With the stadium "Fisht" and other sports facilities built for the White Olympics. All of them have unique architecture. The Ice Palace resembles the Beijing Opera - in the form of an icy drop. A Bowl Olympic flame! She looks like the Firebird from a Russian folk tale. In the Olympic Park there is a Formula 1 track, and the competition for pilots leaves no one indifferent. Fans come from all parts of the world and remain in great delight. The park has its own "Disneyland" with dozens of rides. Souvenirs, including the mascots of the Games, can be bought as a keepsake in local places. Just keep in mind - you can't get around the park in one day. It covers an area of almost two hundred hectares. In the Imereti lowland. Do not go around it in a day and on electric cars: there are so many sights in it. Natural beauty of Tuapse
Famous resort town located between Gelendzhik and Sochi. It is 117 kilometers away from the southern capital of Russia - less than two hours away. From Gelendzhik - 129 kilometers, a little over two hours drive. Protecting the resort from evil northern winds mountains with an average height of 1352 to 1453 meters above sea level. But there are exceptions - the top of Chessy ascended to the sky at 1839 meters. Among the attractions are Mount Semiglavaya, the Wolf Gorge, the rock of Alexander Kiselev, protruding into the sea and named after the artist. In the city itself - subtropical plants. in the foothills and locals and tourists are happy to collect European blackberries. In the resort area there are sanatoriums, boarding houses, children's health camps. Both cargo and passenger ships moor in the seaport. You can rent a yacht, go to the open sea on it, go fishing, swim in the clearest water or sunbathe on the deck. Tourists love to arrange picnics during boat trips.
Republic of Adygea
It is part of the Southern Federal District with the capital Maykop, with a population of half a million. Part of the North Caucasian economic region. It is surrounded on all sides by the Krasnodar Territory. There are forty-five auls in the republic, there are villages, villages, farms. From the streets of Maykop, the Main Caucasian Range is clearly visible. Sights - Lago-Naki plateau, popular with tourists. Ten waterfalls Rufabgo - each with its own name. Rivers Kuban, Belaya, Laba. The Belaya River is 260 kilometers long. And it is fed by mountain streams and springs of Fisht, Oshten and Abago. The granite canyon is four kilometers long and two hundred meters deep. Sahrai waterfalls. Mountain lake Pseudonakh. Often visited by tourists are the Devil's Finger rock, Monk, Big Weaver, Trident, Camel, Una-Koz ridge. The mountains are quite high, we recall that the top of Fisht ascended to 2868 meters above sea level. It was her name that was given to the stadium where the opening and closing ceremonies of the Winter Olympic Games in 2014 were held, so striking with their colorfulness and originality inherent in the Russian mentality.
Dagestan - a country of mountains
On this account, there are folk saying. It is especially often used in speeches on December 11, when the whole world celebrates International Mountain Day. And the highest of the peaks of the Great Caucasus here - Shalbuzdag - 4150 meters above sea level. In July and August, there is a real pilgrimage to her: here is the grave of the righteous Suleiman. The mountain resembles a pyramid with a jagged top. There is a belief that if you climb it, all desires and dreams will come true. And thousands of tourists are trying to do it. But the capital of Dagestan, Makhachkala, stretches directly along the Tarki-Tau mountain - a unique natural monument from a mountain monolith. It is also well known because in 1722 the army of Peter the Great entered Tarki. The peak of the Great Caucasus under the name of Bazarduzu is considered the southernmost point of Russia. She ascended to a height of 4466 meters above sea level. The first ascent to it was made in 1935.
You can talk about the mountains of Dagestan for a long time. But it has another unique attraction - just fifteen kilometers from Makhachkala, its capital, the gray-haired Caspian splashes - the largest closed reservoir on Earth, the largest drainless lake on the planet at the junction of Europe and Asia. Its area is 371 thousand square kilometers. The depth is more than a kilometer. It is home to more than 140 species of fish, of which the most famous is the beluga, which, if you meet, will get scared: is it really a shark?! There are sturgeons that produce black caviar and species such as bream, asp, bleak, river eel, spike, burbot - you can’t list them all! The great Russian river Volga, 3,530 kilometers long, flows into the Caspian Sea (lake), off the coast of which a 300,000-strong Nazi army led by Field Marshal Paulus was taken prisoner near Stalingrad. Every year, thousands and thousands of tourists, both our compatriots and foreigners, come to rest to the Caspian Sea. In particular, there are sanatoriums, boarding houses, and children's health camps near Makhachkala. True, the shores of the Caspian Sea have not yet been very well developed, but a course has been taken to create another popular resort area here. And what? White fine sand, clear water - sunbathe, swim, catch a fish, cook fragrant fish soup from it on the shore!
The mountains of the Caucasus, born in the collision of the Eurasian and Arabian plates, are like a symbol of the mentality of the peoples living next to them. Proud and tall, they stand as a miraculous wall between Asiatic and European parts our continent on dry land. Mankind has not decided whether to attribute them to Europe or Asia.
The height of the Caucasus Mountains: 5642 m (Great Caucasus) and 3724 m (Little Caucasus).
The length of the Greater Caucasus: 1100 km. small - 600 km.
See the geographic location of the Caucasus Mountains or where they are located and how they are located on the map. To enlarge the map of the Caucasus Mountains, just click on it.
Not crossed by rivers, the Caucasian ranges are called the watershed line. mountain system Caucasus, the same age as the Alps, with a history of thirty million years, is firmly inscribed in the memory of mankind through biblical lines and Greek myths. It was on one of the mountains of the system that a dove released from noah's ark, on top of Ararat. The legendary Prometheus, who gave fire to people, was chained to one of the Caucasian rocks.
The Caucasus is divided into two parts, which are called the Greater and Lesser Caucasus. The first stretches from Taman almost to Baku and consists of the Western, Central and Eastern Caucasus. One and a half thousand square kilometers of ice, the highest point of Eurasia - Elbrus (the peak of the Caucasus Mountains), an iron mountain, and six mountain peaks, five thousand kilometers high - that's what the Greater Caucasus is.
The Lesser Caucasus is a mountain range near the Black Sea, with peaks up to four kilometers high.
The Caucasus Mountains are located between the Caspian and the Black Sea coasts and simultaneously on the territory of several countries. This is Russia, South Ossetia, Abkhazia, Georgia, Armenia, Azerbaijan and Turkey.
The climate of the Caucasus is diverse: from typically maritime in Abkhazia, it changes to sharply continental in Armenia.
The Caucasus is inhabited by unique animals - chamois, mountain goats, wild boars, in especially remote and hard-to-reach places you can meet a leopard or a bear.
Alpine meadow grasses, coniferous forests climbing up from the foothills, turbulent rivers, lakes, waterfalls, mineral water springs, the purest air.
It is thanks to such a successful combination of values for human health that the region has a huge number of sanatoriums and resorts.
Rock climbers are attracted by the royal Elbrus and its neighbors - Shkhara, Kazbek, Dzhangitau, Dykhtau and Koshnantau. Among the snows of the Caucasus there is a place for skiers and snowboarders, lovers of hiking and thrills, adherents of rafting, as well as all those who value their health. Terrenkur, Norwegian walking, rock climbing, river rafting, skiing and many other activities active rest offers the Caucasus.
Once having visited the mountains, sung by the "genius of Lermontov", you will remember them for a lifetime.
Video: Wildlife of Russia 4 of 6 Caucasus Mountains.
Video: Hiking in the Caucasus mountains.
In clear weather, the top of the mountain Kezgen(4011 m) gives a unique opportunity to observe from the outside a rich and cheerful picture of the Central Caucasus. You can see almost all the main and secondary mountain ranges of the Main Caucasian Range, regions Tyutyus, Adyrsu, Chegema, Bezengi, Adylsu, Yusengi and upper Baksan Gorge, and over the passes and less high peaks of the GKH, distant prospects of mountains open Svaneti. On the opposite side of the horizon, the Caucasian monarch Elbrus shows a strictly end-to-end symmetrical view of its Eastern peak.
The source material of the publication is photographs taken from the top of the mountain Kezgen in July 2007 and July 2009. They formed the basis two basic panoramas.
PANORAMA-1:– evening panorama (July 2007). It covers the GKH sector from the Bezengi wall to Chatyn, as well as the areas of the spurs of the Main ridge descending to the Russian side - Chegem, Adyrsu and Adylsu.
PANORAMA-2:– morning panorama (July 2009). Partially overlapping Panorama-1, it represents the GKH sector from the Bezengi wall to Azau, the Russian spurs of the GKH - Adyrsu, Adylsu, Yusengi, Kogutai and Cheget, the Azau-Elbrus jumper, as well as South-Eastern (with Terskolak peak) and Vostochny (with Irikchat peak ) spurs of Elbrus.
Attached to the two main panoramas additional PANORAMA-3(July 2007). It gives a view of the spurs of the Eastern Elbrus in the Subashi-Kyrtyk-Mukal sector from the pass of Russian officers (which is near the top of Kezgen, 150 m below it).
Together, these three panoramas cover the entire viewing circle.
Camera- Nikon 8800.
More about Kezgen peak.
Kezgen is located in the highest of the eastern spurs of Elbrus - that stretches from the peak hanging over its ice fields Chatkara(3898 m) to the villages of Elbrus and Neutrino in the Baksan valley. The spur has a number of left branches towards the Subashi, Kyrtyk and Syltransu rivers, while it borders the Irikchat river valley and, after its confluence with the Irik, the Irik valley with its left side. The main peak in this spur is Irikchat(4054 m), slightly inferior to her Subashi(3968 m) in the northwest and the equally high duo Kezgen - Soviet warrior(4011 m) in the southeast.
The ascent to Kezgen is beautiful, pleasant and uncomplicated. The beginning of the movement towards Kezgen, the Soviet warrior and Irikchat is common - from the floodplain of the Irikchat river on a grassy slope, along a path that is clearly visible from afar. Then the paths diverge, the Kezgen path takes to the right. Upon reaching the scree slopes, it is lost on the upper traverses, but with sufficient visibility past the take-off opening to the left to the pass of Russian officers (tourist 1B) you can’t miss. The exit from the pass saddle to the summit (along the north-eastern ridge) is also simple - 1B climbing. (Kezgen was sometimes visited by climbers as part of the traverse Kezgen - a Soviet warrior, who was known in the Adylsu camps as a kind of exile.)
Kezgen is the nearest four-thousander north of Baksan, the peaks closer to the river are much lower. This advantageous feature of its location and the unpretentiousness of the route make Kezgen an excellent observation point.
PANORAMAS, SIGNS, INTERPRETATION.
PANORAMA-1 (more than 800 Kb, 8682 x 850 pixels) in its original form:
PANORAMA-1 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:
PANORAMA-2 (more than 1.2 Mb, 10364 x 1200 pixels) in its original form:
PANORAMA-2 with peaks, passes, glaciers and gorges marked on it:
Additional PANORAMA-3 - view to the northeast in the valley of the Mukal glacier:
Accepted designations and general principles.
On the panorama are marked:
Mountain peaks- colored circles
passes- crosses,
glaciers- rectangles,
gorges (river valleys)- double wave.
At passes, glaciers and gorges, the numbering is through, from right to left.
All signs glaciers and gorges blue. Signs passes and peaks painted in different colors, depending on their belonging to one or another mountainous region.
The color differentiation of the icons helps to more clearly represent and trace the location of the various mountain regions visible in the panorama, especially where they overlap.
Used colors:
- dense green: for objects outside the State border of the Russian Federation,
- red: for the peaks and passes of the GKH,
- purple light: for the peaks of the Bezengi region outside the GKH,
- Orange: for peaks and passes in the Adyrsu ridge,
– clear yellow: for peaks and passes in the Adylsu ridge,
- dirty yellow: for peaks and passes in the Yusengi ridge,
– purple dark: for peaks and passes in the Kogutai spur of Donguzorun,
- pale green: for peaks and passes of the South-Eastern spur of Elbrus,
- pale plum: for the peaks and passes of the Elbrus-Azau lintel,
– light brown: for the peaks and passes of the ridge in the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchat,
- white: for peaks and passes of the Eastern spur of Elbrus,
– blue: for peaks and passes in short spurs of the GKH (apex circles in this case in a red rim), as well as in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridges (apex circles in an orange rim) and Adylsu (apex circles in a yellow rim).
1. MOUNTAINS
Note. The heights of the peaks indicated below in some cases differ from those given by the "Classification of routes to mountain peaks" (hereinafter "Classifier"). These heights are given mainly according to the maps of the General Staff (hereinafter "General Staff") built on the basis of the results of methodically homogeneous measurements within the framework of a unified topographic program of the Soviet era. Altitude data are given by the General Staff with an accuracy of up to 0.1 meters, but it should, of course, be borne in mind that such an enviable accuracy could only claim to cover random measurement errors, and not the systematic errors of the measurement technique itself.
1.1. TOPS IN GEORGIA
1 - Tetnuld, 4853 m
2 - Svetgar, 4117 m
3 - Asmashi, 4082 m
4 - Marianna (Maryanna), 3584 m
5 - Lekzyr (Dzhantugansky), 3890 m
6 - Chatyn Glavny, 4412 m
7 - Ushba North, 4694 m
8 - Ushba South, 4710 m
9 - Cherinda, 3579 m
10 - Dolra, 3832 m
11 - Shtavleri, 3994 m
1.2. TOPS OF THE MAIN CAUCASIAN RIDGE (GKH)
1 - Bezengi wall (details on enlarged panorama fragment)
2 - Gestola, 4860 m
3 - Lyalver, 4366 m
4 - Tichtengen, 4618 m
5 - Bodorku, 4233 m
6 - Bashiltau, 4257 m
7 - Sarykol, 4058 m
8 - Ullutau massif, 4277 m
9 - Latsga, 3976 m
10 - Chegettau, 4049 m
11 - Aristov rocks (3619 m - Kaluga peak)
12 - Dzhantugan, 4012 m
13 - Bashkara, 4162 m
14 - Ullukara, 4302 m
15 - Free Spain, 4200 m
16 - Bzhedukh, 4280 m
17 - Eastern Caucasus, 4163 m
18 - Shchurovsky, 4277 m
19 - Chatyn West, 4347
20 - Ushba Malaya, 4254 m
21 - Eastern Shkhelda, 4368 m
22 - Shkhelda Central, 4238 m
23 - Aristov (Shkhelda 3rd Western), 4229
24 - Shkhelda 2nd Western, 4233 m
25 - Western Shkhelda, 3976 m
26 - Trade unions, 3957 m
27 - Athlete, 3961 m
28 - Shkhelda Malaya, 4012 m
29 - Akhsu, 3916 m
30 - Yusengi Uzlovaya, 3846 m
31 - Gogutai, 3801 m
32 - Donguzorun East, 4442 m
33 - Donguzorun Main, 4454 m
34 - Donguzorun West, 4429 m
35 - Nakratau, 4269 m
36 - Chiper, 3785 m
37 - Chiperazau, 3512 m
Peaks in short spurs of the GKH
1 - Germogenov, 3993 m
2 - Chegetkara, 3667 m
3 - Main Caucasus, 4109 m
4 - Western Caucasus, 4034 m
5 - Donguzorun Small, 3769 m
6 - Cheget, 3461 m
1.3. TOPS OF THE BEZENGI DISTRICT
1 - Dykhtau, 5205 m (5204.7 according to the map of the General Staff, 5204 according to the Classifier and Lyapin's scheme)
2 - Koshtantau, 5152 m (5152.4 according to the map of the General Staff, 5150 according to the Classifier, 5152 according to the Lyapin scheme)
3 - Ulluauz, 4682 m (4681.6 according to the map of the General Staff, 4675 according to the Classifier, 4676 according to the Lyapin scheme)
4 - Thought, 4677 m (4676.6 according to the map of the General Staff, 4557 according to the Classifier, 4681 according to the Lyapin scheme)
1.4. TOPS OF ADYRSU DISTRICT
1 - Adyrsubashi, 4370 m (4346)
2 - Orubashi, 4369 m (4259)
3 - Yunomkara, 4226 m
4 - Kichkidar, 4360 m (4269)
5 - Jailyk, 4533 m (4424)
From the Dzhailik massif, the Adyrsu ridge is divided into two branches:
(a) the northwestern branch,
(b) northeast branch.
Peaks of the northwestern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:
6a - Tyutyubashi, 4460 m (4404)
7a - Sullukol, 4259 m (4251)
8а - Steel, 3985 m
Peaks of the northeastern branch of the Adyrsu ridge:
6b - Kenchat, 4142 m
7b - Aurel, 4056 m (4064)
8b - Kayarta, 4082 m (4121)
9b - Kilar, 4000 m (4087)
10b - Sakashil, 4054 m (4149)
Peaks in the spurs of the Adyrsu ridge:
from Adyrsubashi
a - Khimik, 4087 m
b - Moskovsky Komsomolets, 3925 m
s - Triangle, 3830 m
From Jailyk
d - Chegem, 4351 m
From the city of Tyutubashi
e - Cullumkol, 4055 m (4141)
f - Theremin, 3950 m (3921)
From Kilar
g - Adzhikol (Adzhikolbashi, Adzhikolchatbashi), 3848 m (4126).
1.5. TOPS OF ADYLSU DISTRICT
(in brackets - heights according to the Lyapin scheme, if there is a difference)
1 - Kurmychi, 4045 m
2 - Andyrchi Uzlovaya, 3872 m
3 - Andyrtau (Andyrchi), 3937 m
4 - MPR (peaks of the Mongolian People's Republic): Northeast 3830 m (3838), Central 3830 m (3849), Southwest 3810 m (3870).
Peaks in the spurs of the Adylsu ridge towards the Adyrsu valley:
1.6. TOPS OF THE YUSENGI RIDGE
1 - Yusengi, 3870 m
2 - Yusengi Severnaya, 3421 m. According to the tradition, apparently dating back to the map of the General Staff, the names of these two peaks are confused with each other
1.7. Peaks of the Kogutai Spur of Donguzorun
1 - Interkosmos, 3731 m
2 - Small Kogutai, 3732 m
3 - Big Kogutai, 3819 m
4 - Baksan, 3545 m
5 - Kahiani (Donguzorungitchechatbashi), 3367 m
6 - Canteen, 3206 m.
1.8 TOPS IN THE LINK BETWEEN GKH AND ELBRUS
1 - Azaubashi, 3695 m
2 - Ullukambashi, 3762 m
1.9 TOPS OF THE SOUTH-EASTERN SPINK OF ELBRUS
1 - Terskol, 3721 m
2 - Terskolak, 3790 m
3 - Sarykolbashi, 3776 m
4 - Artykkaya, 3584 m
5 - Tegeneklibashi, 3502 m
1.10 THE TOP OF THE RIDGE IN THE UPPER REACH OF THE IRIK AND IRIKCHAT GORGONS
1 - Achkeryakolbashi (Askerkolbashi), 3928 m
2 - Red hillock, 3730 m
1.11 TOPS OF THE EASTERN SPINK OF ELBRUS
1 - Irikchat West, 4046 m
2 - Irikchat Central, 4030 m
3 - Irikchat East, 4020 m
4 - Soviet warrior, 4012 m
1.12 TOPS IN THE NORTH-EAST (ON THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER)
Shown separately on PANORAMA-3
Islamchat (3680 m)
Shukambashi (3631 m)
Jaurgen (3777 m)
Suaryk (3712 m)
Kyrtyk (3571 m)
Mukal (3899 m)
2. PASSES
1 - Hunaly Yuzh, 2B - connects the valleys of Hunalychat (tributary of Sakashilsu) and Kayarty (l. Kayart)
2 - Kayarta Zap, 2A - between the peaks of Kilar and Adzhikol
3 - Kayarta, 1B - between the peaks of Kayarta and Kilar
4 - Sternberga, 2A - between the peaks of Orel and Kayart
5 - Kilar, 1B - between the peaks of Kenchat and Orelyu
6 - Vodopadny, 1B - in the northern spur of Stal peak
7 - Sullukol, 1B - in the western spur of the peak Stal
8 - Spartakiad, 2A* - between the Tyutubashi massif and the top of the Spartakiad
9 - Kullumkol, 1B - between the Tyutubashi massif and the peak of Kullumkol
10 - Tyutyu-Dzhailik, 3A - between the top of Dzhailik and the Tyutubashi massif
11 - Chegemsky, 2B - in the shoulder of the city of Kichkidar
12 - Kichkidar, 2B - between the peaks of Yunomkara and Kichkidar
13 - Freshfield, 2B - between the peaks of Orubashi and Yunomkara
14 - Golubeva, 2A - between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi
15 - Garnet, 1A - in the northern spur of the peak of the Navy
16 - Kurmy, 1A - in the northern spur of the peak of the Navy
17 - Dzhalovchat, 1B - between the peaks of Fizkulturnik and the Navy
18 - Mestiisky, 2A - between the peaks of Ullutau and Sarykol
19 - Churlenisa Vost, 3A * - between Yesenin peak and Gestola shoulder
20 - Svetgar, 3A - between the peaks of Svetgar and Tot
21 - Dzhantugan, 2B - between the top of Dzhantugan and the rocks of Aristov
22 - Marianna, 3A - between the peaks of Marianna and Svetgar
23 - Bashkara, 2B * - between the peaks of Bashkara and Dzhantugan
24 - Pobeda, 3B - between the peaks of Ullukar and Bashkara
25 - Kashkatash, 3A * - between the peak of Free Spain and the top of Ullukar
26 - Double, 3A - between the peak of the Caucasus Vost and the peak of Bzhedukh
27 - Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and East
28 - Krenkelya, 3A - between the peaks of the Caucasus Gl and Zap
29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Zap and M. Ushba
30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the arrays of Ushba and Shkheldy
31 - Bivachny, 2B * - between the peaks of Athlete and Trade Unions
32 - Yusengi, 2B - between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi North
33 - Medium, 2B - between Malaya Shkhelda peak and Fizkulturnika peak
34 - Rodina, 2A (when moving along the buttress from the side of the Yusengi valley) - between the peaks of Yusengi and Yusengi Uzlovaya
35 - Akhsu, 2A - between the peaks of Yusengi Uzlovaya and Akhsu
36 - Becho, 1B - in the ridge of the GKH between peaks 3506 and 3728, it is also the lowest pass in the GKH section between Donguzorun and the Yusengi ridge and the closest to the top of Yusengi Uzlovaya.
37 - Becho False, 1B - in the ridge of the GKH west of peak 3506 and east of the lane. Olympian
38 - Yusengi Peremetny, 1B - glacial crossing through the short eastern spur of the Gogutai peak
39 - High Dolra, 2A - at the gathering of the GKH from the top of Vost. Donguzorun under Gogutai peak.
40 - Shepherd (Okhotsky), 1A - connects the Yusengi gorge with the upper Kogutayka
41 - Vladimir Korshunov, 1B - between the top of Big Kogutai and Baksan peak
42 - Pearl of Primorye, 1B * - between the peaks of Big and Small Kogutai
43 - Kogutai, 1B - between Interkosmos peak and Maly Kogutai peak
44 - Seven, 3B * - between the peaks of Nakra and Donguzorun West
45 - Donguzorun False, 1B - the pass closest to the top of Nakra (from the west) through the GKH
46 - Donguzorun, 1A - the easiest and lowest pass through the GKH to the west of the peak of Nakra, located west of the Donguzorun False pass.
47 - Suakkalar, 1B * - between the peaks of Artykkaya and Sarykolbashi
48 - Sarykol (conditional name), 1B * - between the peaks of Sarykolbashi and Terskolak
49 - Chiper, 1B * - the pass closest to the top of Chiper through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
50 - Chiperazau, 1A - the pass closest to the peak of Chiperazau through the GKH between the peaks of Chiper and Chiperazau
51 - Azau, 1A - between the peaks of Chiperazau and Azaubashi
52 - Khasankoysuryulgen, 1B - between the peaks of Azaubashi and Ullukambashi
53 - Terskolak, 1B - in the ridge under the top of Terskolak to the north of it
54 - Terskol, 1B * - between the top of Terskol and the ice slopes of Elbrus
55 - Assol, 1B - the more southern of the neighboring passes connecting the Irik glacier and a small "internal" glacial cirque between the upper reaches of the Irik and Irikchat gorges
56 - Frezi Grant, 1B - pass in the same summit circus as per. Assol (No. 55), north of it
57 - Irik-Irikchat, 2A - in the ridge between the glaciers Irik and Irikchat south of the top of Achkeryakolbashi
58 - Chat Elbrussky, 1B * - in the ridge between the glaciers Irik and Irikchat ridge to the west of the top of Achkeryakolbashi
59 - Irikchat, 1B * - between the Irikchat glacier and the peak of Chatkara
PASSES IN THE NORTH-EAST, IN THE SIDE OF THE MUKAL GLACIER (without numbering, shown separately on PANORAMA-3):
Mukal-Mkyara, 1B
Mukal-Mkyara false, 3A
Voruta, 1A
Ritenok, 1B
Baumanets, 2A
Khibiny, 1B
Zemprohodtsev, 1B
3. GLACIERS
1 - Kayarta Western (No. 485-b)
2 - Aurel (No. 485-a)
3 - Sullukol (No. 491)
4 - Yunom Severny (No. 487-d)
5 - Yun (No. 487-b)
6 - Nitrogen (No. 492-b)
7 - East Kurmy (No. 498)
8 - Adyrsu East (No. 493rd)
9 - Bashkara (No. 505)
10 - Kashkatash (No. 508)
11 - Bzhedukh (No. 509)
12 – Ushba icefall
13 - Shkheldinsky (No. 511)
14 - Akhsu (No. 511-b)
15 - No. 511-a
16 - Yusengi (No. 514)
17 - No. 515-b
18 - Ozengi (No. 515-a)
19 - No. 517-b
20 - Kogutai East (No. 517-a)
21 - Kogutai Western
22 – № 518
23 – № 519
24 – № 520
25 – № 538
26 - No. 537-b
27 - No. 537-a
28 – № 536
29 - Big Azau (No. 529)
30 – Garabashi
31 – Terskol
32 - Irik (No. 533)
33 – Irikchat
Mukal Glacier - see Additional PANORAMA-3
4. RIVER BASINS (GORKS)
1 - Cullumkol
2 - Sullukol
3 - Vodopadnaya (these three rivers: 1, 2, 3 are the right tributaries of the Adyrsu river)
4 - Shkhelda (Adylsu tributary)
5 - Yusengi
6 - Kogutaika (these two rivers: 5 and 6 are the right tributaries of the Baksan)
7 - Irik
8 - Irikchat (the last two rivers - 7 and 8 - left tributaries of the Baksan)
ENLARGED FRAGMENTS OF THE MAIN PANORAMAS.
a) Tyutyu-Bashi and Dzhailik.
array Tyutyu-Bashi(4460 m) on this fragment of the panorama is turned to us by the western end, so that all five of its peaks are lined up: Western(4350 m), Second Western(4420 m), Central(4430 m), home(4460 m) and Eastern(4400 m). The massif breaks off in the Tyutyu-Su gorge (left in the picture) with the Northern Wall with routes up to category 6A.
To the right of Tyutyu is located Jailyk(4533 m), the highest peak of the Adyrsu ridge and, note, the third highest in the Baksan valley and the Elbrus region, after Elbrus (5642 m) and Ushba (4710 m). On the right, from behind Dzhailik, peeks out Chegem(4351 m), famous for complex rock walls up to category 6A. Near Chegem, they usually drive through the Chegem Gorge, located between the Baksan and Bezengi Gorges parallel to the first.
In the foreground in the center is the Sullukol glacier. On the picture you can also see the Tyutyu-Dzhailik (3A) passes, it is between the peaks of Dzhailik and Tyutyu-Bashi, and Kullumkol (1B), between the peaks of Tyutyu-Bashi and Cullumcol(4055 m), the latter is visible under Dzhailik against its background. All of them are marked on the general panorama.
b) Koshtantau and Dykhtau.
Pictured on the left before us Koshtantau(5152 m), or simply Koshtan. This is the peak of the "technical Caucasus" - the highest mountain in the Caucasus with a route of the sixth category of difficulty, 6A on the left side of the central buttress of the Northern Wall. The route was first climbed in 1961 by a team from Bauman (MVTU, Moscow, leader Arnold Simonik), who dedicated it to the flight of German Titov, "cosmonaut number two". For a few more high peak Dykhtau "sixes" is not classified. Traverse Dykhtau-Koshtan was a "six", but at times he was undressed. The Koshtan-Dykh traverse with the ascent to Koshtan along 6A is completely illogical, and there are no "sixes" to the roof of the Caucasus - Elbrus, if not to talk about climbing to the top after passing the Kyukyurtlyu wall - which, you see, is also an illogical option.
From the left to Koshtan along the Northern ridge leads the “British” ridge 4B (G. Vulei, 1889), this is the easiest way to the top. (A peak in the GKH to the north of Shchurovsky Peak is named after Vulei. It is curious that German Vulei - Hermann Wooley, in some sources Woolley - came to mountaineering, already being a football player and boxer). In the lower part of the ridge, a characteristic hump is visible - an ice gendarme. Grassroots, most hard part route - climb from the Mizhirgi glacier to the Northern ridge of Koshtan - hidden behind the peak Panoramic(4176 m), which is in the spur Ulluauza(4682 m). Approaches to Koshtan from this side are extremely dreary, you have to go through all the steps of the Mizhirga icefall, of which there are three only up to overnight stays "3900", and there is also a zone of cracks located above. The first two steps pass along the moraine and then along the ice, adhering to the left (along the way) side of the glacier, and the third is bypassed along the scree on the left and go to the overnight stays "3900", the highest in the area.
In the foreground of the image is an array Adyrsubashi(4370 m). To the left, to the Golubev pass (2A, 3764 m), the North-Eastern ridge stretches from it with many gendarmes. Climbing Adyrsubashi along this ridge is a very long "five A". The Golubeva pass itself remained to the left of the frame, it is located in a depression between the peaks of Adyrsubashi and Orubashi and connects the upper reaches of the Adyrsu and Chegem, serving faithfully as one of the popular tourist routes.
Adyrsubashi is the nodal peak of the Adyr ridge. Its western spur asserts itself as peaks Chemist(4087 m), Ozernaya(4080 m), Moscow's comsomolets(3925 m) and Triangle(3830 m), behind this peak there is a descent towards the Ullutau alpine camp. Khimik and Ozernaya peaks are two snow humps with rock outcrops, in the picture they are to the left and below Adyrsubashi. From Ozernaya (to the right of Khimik and closer to us) a small Azot glacier flows into the Kullumkol valley (to the left). He received this “chemical” name by the name of the alpine camp, which operated (since 1936) from the eponymous DSO of workers in the chemical industry. In 1939, eight (!) alpine camps operated in the Adyrsu gorge. The fate of "Azot" was the most successful, now it is the alpine camp "Ullutau".
To the north-west of the Ozernaya peak in our direction, bordering the Azot glacier, a spur departs, in which the peak can be traced Panoramic, he is the peak Winter(3466 m), which received such a name in the everyday life of the Ullutau alpine camp as an object of low ascents during the winter shifts of the camp. Another spinal branch of the Ozernaya peak (to the right in the picture) leads to Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, the top of which falls exactly on the right cut of this fragment. Array in the background Mizhirgi with distinguishable Eastern summit (4927 m). Western Mizhirgi(5025 m) and the Second Western Mizhirgi, better known as the peak Borovikov(4888 m), almost indistinguishable in the ridge going from Eastern Mizhirga to Dykhtau.
On the right picture we have an array Dykhtau(5205 m), or simply Dykh. In the foreground near the left section of the fragment is Moskovsky Komsomolets peak, from which the crest of the ridge stretches to the low Triangle peak at the bottom in the center of the frame (both peaks were mentioned above in the comments on Koshtantau). In the distance are two peaks, more often attributed to the Chegem region: a huge Tichtengen(4618 m), standing in the GKH between the peaks of Ortokara and Kitlod, and - a little closer, against its background - the peak facing us with a snowy slope Bodorka(4233 m), also located in the GKH.
c) Bezengi wall.
On this fragment, approximately in profile, the entire Bezengi wall is visible, stretching in an arc from Shkhara to Lyalver. This unconventional angle can puzzle even seasoned experts in the area, it painfully "successfully" merges with the Bezengi wall of Gestol.
On the left of the image you can see the long NE-ridge of the "classical" ascent to Shkhara(5069 m) along 5A - the route of D. Kokkin (J.G. Cockin, 1888). It was first climbed by the British-Swiss troika U. Almer, J. Cockin, C. Roth as part of an expedition of the British Royal Geographical Society led by Douglas Freshfield. The photographer for this and subsequent expeditions in the 1890s was Vitorio Sella, who received the cross of St. Anna from Nicholas II for his photographs of the Caucasus mountains. The glacier and the peak of Sella (4329 m) are named after him, which is on the approach to the peak of Mizhirgi in the upper reaches of the eastern branch of the Bezengi glacier. In terms of technical complexity, Kokkin’s route to Shkhara is unlikely to pull even 2B, but it is dangerous because it relaxes, although there is practically nowhere to reliably insure on a long snowy ridge with cornices in one direction or the other, and there were cases of disruption of entire ligaments. In some sources (for example, A.F. Naumov, "Chegem-Adyrsu") the route is categorized as 4B. The category can be raised to the fifth, wishing to reduce the flow of climbers by cutting off those whom KSS Bezengi officially releases for "fours", but not yet for "five". Kokkin's route - in everyday life "Crab": rock outcrops resemble a crab with claws lowered down. This crab (it is not visible in the panorama) is clearly visible from the Jangi-kosh side in the lower part of the ridge, above the "cushion".
On the ridge you can clearly see the ice gendarme and the Eastern peak of Shkhara. There are no classified routes to it, it is passed almost on foot on the way to the Main Peak of Shkhara. From Eastern Shkhara, the GKH leaves us to the southeast, even closer to the south, and passes through the peak Ushguli(4632 m), also known as the South-Eastern Shkhara. The peak is named after the ancient village of Ushguli. Located in the Svan valley at an altitude of 2200 m, it is considered the highest European settlement of permanent residence (that is, excluding ski resorts and weather stations). There are several "fives" on the top of Ushguli from the Georgian side, as well as an extra-long 2A, the technical simplicity of which is compensated by the length of the approaches: two days from the Bezengi alpine camp in our country or from the Ailama alpine camp in Svaneti.
The most beautiful and logical route to Shkhara is perhaps the "Austrian" 5B Tomaszek-Muller (1930) - head-on climb from the Bezengi glacier along the Northern Ridge (in the picture it is on the border of light and shadow). In the days of the Stalinist USSR, there should have been no foreign expeditions in our mountains, however, a small diaspora of Austrian communists found refuge with us in the early 1930s and, judging by the records of its route achievements, did not waste time in vain (look at the Caucasian routes at your leisure of that period with German surnames).
inconspicuous peak Western Shkhara(5057 m) is worthy of mention in that only two routes go to it from the north (Anatoly Blankovsky, 1980 and Yuri Razumov, 1981), and both are very strong and objectively dangerous, rarely visited "sixes". They appeared in the early 1980s, thanks to progress in ice equipment - first of all, the appearance in the USSR of cat-platforms for ice and ice screws (previously they were insured with ice carrot hooks, which had to be hammered into the ice for a long time).
To the right of Western Shkhara, the ridge of the Bezengi wall gradually lowers in the direction of a small rocky peak of Shota Rustaveli peak (4860 m), hidden behind a peak closer to us Gestola(4860 m). Rustaveli Peak was first climbed by Georgians in 1937, from the south along route 4A. Recently, it has been often visited from the north, because the comparatively safe "Laletin's board" - a monotonous ice route, climbed in 1983 by A. Laletin's team from St. In the intramural class of the 1995 Russian Alpinism Championship, the deuces leaving at night managed to jump this route to the very top by 10 o'clock in the morning!
Even more to the left in the panorama, the Dzhangi-Tau massif is visible half-turned: Dzhangi East(5038 m), home(5058 m) and Western(5054 m). The route to the Eastern Dzhangi along the NE ridge is the easiest on the Bezengi Wall, only the routes to the extreme mountains of the Wall, Shkhara (technically easy 5A) and Gestola (4A with an ascent through peak 4310) are easier. In addition, the NE ridge (buttress) of Eastern Dzhangi is objectively the least dangerous option for climbing the Wall from the north, and it is often used as a descent route after ascending the Dzhangi massif (including the Main Dzhangi), Western Shkhara or Rustaveli Peak. Eastern Dzhangi, like Shkhara, was printed in 1888 by Kokkin's group.
To get the "Star of Bezengi" badge, it is not necessary to climb the Main Dzhangi (the only route to it from the north is dangerous with ice collapses 5A), any Dzhanga peak is enough - first of all, the simpler and safer East. There are no classified routes to Western Dzhangi from the north yet (except perhaps within the traverse of the Wall), and they are unlikely to appear soon: a beautiful and logical line to this peak is not visible from this side, but objectively dangerous ice faults are visible. But from the Georgian side to the Western Dzhangi, two 5Bs are classified. I wonder when was the last time they went? ..
Approximately the same ice "gardens" looks from the north and Katyn(4974 m), from which the huge and flat Katyn plateau extends to Gestola. Katyn was also climbed for the first time in 1888 by members of a British expedition, but the simplest route to it from the north - 4B hp (G.Holder, 1888) - is objectively more dangerous and less beautiful than the northeast ridge of the Dzhangi of the same category of difficulty.
The GKH line runs along the edge of the Bezengi wall through the massifs of Shkhara and Dzhangi, Katyn, Gestola and Lyalver, and a long ridge, leaving Gestola to the southwest (in the picture to the right) and partially hiding the Katyn plateau, leads to the peak located in Georgia Tetnuld(4853 m). It is not visible on this fragment of the panorama (it is to the right), but it is on the general panorama. In the 1990s, Georgians brought a metal cross with a characteristic shape, like on the Georgian flag, to the top of Tetnuld. The easiest way to Gestola(4860 m) from the north - this is 3B through the peak Lalver(4350 m), with an ascent to Lyalver along a technically simple 2B and then a simple traverse through peak 4310 and the shoulder of Gestola. This route (completed for the first time already in 1903) is categorized as 3B, perhaps solely for its height and length. There is an option to shorten this Chinese campaign - to cut off the path to peak 4310 by climbing it not through Lyalver, but head-on from the western branch of the Bezengi glacier. This variant of the route to Gestola is categorized as 4A (A. Germogenov, 1932), although there are no technical difficulties on it even on 3A (carefully in the upper part - destroyed rocks).
The story with the name pichka in the crest of the Bezengi wall to the west of the shoulder of Gestola is quite confusing. This slight ridge rise previously “passed” as peak 4310 or Peak Nameless. The latter name haunted renaming activists, and in the 1990s, two signs were erected on this peak in the neighborhood, one in affirmation Yesenin peak, the other - peak of the 50th anniversary of the CBD. The "anniversary" version of the name, it seems, sounded more weighty than the poetic impulse of Yesenin's admirers, because the sign "50 years of the KBR" was the result of a mass ascent along 2B through Lyalver with the support of the authorities from Nalchik. But in technical descriptions this tip is usually still passed as "4310". It is clearer: whatever you call it, the height will not change :)
Peak 4310 separates two passes in the Bezengi wall, Chiurlionis East and West. On the enlarged fragment of the panorama, Čiurlionis Vostochny is indicated, it is between peak 4310 and the shoulder of Gestola. Vertex Bashille(4257 m) - in the picture against the background of Lyalver - is located to the west of the Bezengi region and already belongs to the Chegem Gorge region.
A few words about the height of the peaks of the Bezengi wall and her highest point.
That Shkhara - highest point Walls, converge all sources. But they determine the heights of the Bezengi peaks in different ways. So, for Shkhara Glavnaya one can meet not only the traditional value of 5068 m, but also the more "prestigious" 5203 m, and for Dzhanga Glavnaya - values of 5085, 5074 and 5058 m (Lyapin's map). We rely on the data of the General Staff as more homogeneous (at least within a single area) and for the highest points Shkhara and Dzhangi take the values, respectively, 5069 m(5068.8 according to the General Staff) and 5058 m. Direct visual assessments also favor Shkhara. When looking at the Bezengi wall from the Northern massif, as well as when looking at Shkhara from Dzhangi (and vice versa), Shkhara always gives the impression of the dominant peak of the Wall.
Finally, oh curvature of the "arc" of the Bezegi Wall visible in the picture. The visual impression of its large curvature in the Shkhara - Gestola section is illusory, it is a pure effect of a large increase in the image, in which the image of a cluster of distant objects is stretched in azimuth, but does not move apart in depth. So it seems that the slender comb visible from the end wags its sides. In relation to this image: if we convert the VISIBLE angular distance between Shkhara Glavnaya and Katyn (or Dzhangi Zapadnaya) into kilometers, then it will turn out to be six times (!) LESS than the real distance from Shkhara Glavnaya to Gestola, but it seems that they are approximately the same.
d) the mountains of Svaneti and the Dzhantugan pass.
The main characters of this fragment are the dominant Svetgar(4117 m) and, to the right, a modest Marianne(3584 m), a bunch-two completing the Svetgar ridge stretching from the east (on the left). In the soft evening light of the sun, their rocky slopes amaze with a variety of color shades. Peaks lined up behind Marianne Asmashi Ridge, which are identified very uncertainly at this end angle. This entire mountain complex would be of great interest to mountain tourists and climbers, if it were open to visitors from the Russian side. Suffice it to say that most of the passes in the region - Asmashi, Marianna, Svetgar, Tot - are category 3A.
A few words about the Dzhantugan plateau and the Dzhantugan pass (3483 m, tourist 2B), which dominate the middle plan of the fragment. The Dzhantugan plateau is one of the western branches of the huge Lekzyr (Lekziri) glacial complex, the largest on the southern side of the GKH. It is formed by a system of glaciers framing the GKH in the area from the Kashkatash pass in the west to the Bashiltau peak area in the upper reaches of the Chegem Gorge in the east. These glaciers adjoin the passes connecting the regions of Adylsu, Adyrsu and Chegem with Svaneti. The Dzhantugan plateau resembles an apple that has rotted from the inside: its entire inside is broken by wide bottomless cracks, and only the narrow outer rim is edible. Any reasonable movements on the line Lekzyr - Bashkara - Dzhantugan - Aristov rocks - Gumachi - Chegettau - Latsga are possible only near the slopes of these peaks.
The glacier on the rise to the Dzhantugan pass is severely torn, but in recent years there is a simple way around the bergs and cracks, leading to the pass close to the end of the Aristov rocks (red spots in the picture). The pass itself is somewhat puzzling: you do not see a clear inflection in any direction, everything is flat, and only after passing 50-70 meters to the south and burying yourself in faults, you understand that a general decline has begun towards Georgia. (At the same time, the red-white border stick sticks out only twenty meters above the cliff to our northern side.) Near the top of Gumachi there is another pass leading to the plateau - East Dzhantugan, aka False Gumachi (3580 m, tourist 2B) . Climbing it from the side of the Adyl-su gorge is no more difficult than 1B, but to descend from it to Svaneti (along the tricky icefall, which determines the category of both passes), you have to bypass the plateau on the right and, therefore, follow the Dzhantugan pass. So for routes from Adyl-su to Svaneti, that one is clearly preferable. There is another option of climbing to the Dzhantugan plateau in the middle between these two passes, through the central depression in the chain of Aristov rocks.
Aristov rocks named in memory of Oleg Dmitrievich Aristov, who stood at the origins of Soviet mountaineering. In 1935, his group was one of the first to "hill" the peaks above the Dzhantugan plateau along the simplest paths and made several first ascents - Dzhantugan along 2A, Gadyl along 3A, Gadyl-Bashkar traverse (4A). That summer, the 1st All-Union Alpiniad of Trade Unions worked in the Adyl-Su Gorge, and 24-year-old Aristov led the School of Instructors there. Oleg died at the peak of Communism on September 13, 1937. He was appointed leader assault group, which had an order to bring a bust of Stalin to the peak of Communism (then - Stalin's peak). Oleg was walking with frostbitten feet and slipped, falling off at the very top.
The ascent to the Dzhantugan plateau from the side of Adyl-Su passes along the Dzhankuat glacier, which was chosen by glaciologists to study the processes occurring in valley glaciers. The thickness of this typical valley glacier is 40-50 meters in icefalls and 70-100 meters in flattened areas. Like other glaciers in the Caucasus, Dzhankuat has been rapidly retreating in recent decades. At its tip, in a clearing with a seductive name with a seductive name "Green Hotel" - the houses of the Glaciological Station of Moscow State University. In early June, a backcountry camp is sometimes arranged here, aimed at beginners and advanced riders. In the summer there are students at the station. In winter, it is convenient to use the houses for lodging for the night, they save from the winds from the side of the pass, which build up agility when descending into the wide flat part of the gorge below the Dzhankuat glacier.
From the Dzhantugan plateau it is convenient to make radial ascents to the surrounding peaks. In the east direction they are simple - to the peaks Gumachi(3826 m) along 1B (on foot) and Chegettau(4049 m) along 2B. This deuce-B is the oldest route of the region and the entire Elbrus region (excluding Elbrus itself) - Douglas Freshfield, 1888. In the western direction from the Dzhantugan plateau, it is convenient to climb Dzhantugan along 2A and 3A, as well as Bashkara along 3B, Gadyl along 3A and Lekzyr Dzhantugansky (1B).
Peak Jantugan(4012 m) at the right edge of the panorama fragment, a beautiful and simple route 2A leads to it from the pass. Dzhan is facing us here with its northern side, on which three triples-B are classified, one of them (along the NE edge) is clearly visible - this is the edge that casts a shadow. Bypassing the peak from the side of the plateau, you can climb the jumper between it and its western neighbor, the peak of Bashkar. Route 3A to Dzhan begins near this jumper (along the SW ridge), and a beautiful ridge route 3B leads to Bashkara.
The Bashkara-Gadyl massif borders the Dzhantugan plateau from the west. From the plateau it is clearly seen that the peaks Bashkara(4162 m) and Gadyl(4120 m) - the ends of one massif. He simply turned to Svanetia with the “Gadyl” side, and to Balkaria with the “Bashkar”, which is why he received from the corresponding observers different names. The Bashkara-Gadyl traverse (4A) is one of the oldest routes in the region (K. Egger, 1914). In the panoramic image from Kezgen, the peak of Gadyl is not visible, it is covered by Bashkara, which in all its severity is presented on an enlarged fragment (photo on the left). Bashkara breaks off towards the glacier of the same name with its northern wall, along which two routes 6A pass, technically the most difficult in Adyl-Su. The snow "cushion" to the right of Bashkara is the Pobeda pass, one of the most difficult in the region (3B according to the tourist classification). The Bashkara Pass, which is between Bashkara and Dzhantugan, is much easier. From the northern slopes of Bashkara, the Bashkara glacier descends, from the melting of which Bashkara Lake was formed, threatening to break through and mudflow down the Adylsu gorge.
e) from the Kashkatash pass to Ushba.
The same section with designations of peaks, passes and glaciers.
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(Recall that the peaks of the GKH are marked with solid red circles, the passes of the GKH are marked with red crosses).
From left to right:
Pinnacle 14 - Ullukara(4302 m), located in the GKH, breaks off with a wall of complexity 5B to the upper reaches of the Kashkatash glacier.
Peak 1 against the backdrop of Ullukara - peak Germogenova(3993 m) in the spur of Ullukara. From the side of the middle reaches of the Kashkatash glacier, a ridge stretches to the top, along which route 2B passes - one of the longest "twos B" in the region (along with the "two B" to the Eastern Donguzorun along the GKH ridge). Groups of beginners usually go this route with an overnight stay.
Pass 25 - Kashkatash, 3A * - located in the GKH between the peaks of Ullukara and Free Spain.
Glacier 10 - Kashkatash glacier, belonging to the Adylsu basin, the tributary flows opposite the lower houses of the Dzhantugan alpine camp.
Pinnacle 15 - peak Free Spain(4200 m), located in the GKH. The route to the summit along the eastern ridge from the pass is category 4A. Ice route 4B along the wall to the left of the rock tower (Aleksey Osipov et al., 1995) is recommended as a winter option; warm time of the year. Several "five Bs" have been laid along the rock tower. The rocky gendarme in the eastern ridge is sometimes called Gogol Peak, and the gendarme in the western ridge is called Lermontov Peak (I remember Yesenin Peak, mentioned in the description of Bezengi near Lyalver Peak). In climbing terms, these are still gendarmes, they do not lead independent routes, but topologically, “Lermontov’s gendarme” - whatever one may say, this is the nodal peak of the GKH. The Dollakora ridge branches off from it, which leads south to Svaneti and separates the Lekzyr and Chalaat glaciers there.
Pinnacle 16 - Bzhedukh(4270 m), located in the GKH. The snowy slopes of the bridge between the peaks of Free Spain and Bzheduha represent the simplest, but dangerous landslide route of descent from Free Spain, commonly referred to as the "Trough".
Glacier 11 - Bzhedukh, belongs to the Shkhelda basin.
Pass 26 - Double, 3A - is located in the GKH between the peak of the Caucasus East and the peak of Bzhedukh.
Pinnacle 17 - peak Caucasus East(4163 m), the key peak of the GKH. Here the Main Range turns away from us, to the peaks of Vuleya and Shchurovsky, and the rest of the peaks of the Caucasus are already in its spur, which descends into the Shkhelda valley.
Pass 27 - Saddle of the Caucasus, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the peaks of the Caucasus Main and East.
Pinnacle 3 - peak Caucasian Western, located in a spur of the GKH.
Pass 28 - Krenkelya, 3A - is located in the spur of the GKH between the peaks of the Caucasus Western and Main.
Pinnacle 4 - peak Caucasian Chief(4037 m), located in the spur of the GKH.
From Western Chatyn to Svaneti, a short but powerful spur with the top of Chatyn Glavny protrudes. It separates two branches of the Chalaat glacier, breaking off on the Chatyn plateau - the southern circus of the main, eastern branch of the glacier - with its famous Northern wall with solid "sixes". Approach from Russia to the Chatyn Plateau under the routes to the Northern Face of Chatyn - up the Shkhelda Gorge through the Chatyn South Pass, aka Chatyn False (2B). (For more on this pass, see Catalog passes and peaks of Oleg Fomichev, a link to him at the end of the article among other useful links.) From Georgia, it is difficult to enter the Chatyn plateau without a very strong desire, for this you need to either cross the additional Dalla-Kora pass in the southern spurs of the GKH, or go up through the difficult icefalls of the Chalaat glacier, which is extremely problematic even with equipment.
Near Malaya Ushba, an even more impressive short spur with the pearl of the Caucasus - the Ushba massif and its peaks extends from the GKH to Svaneti Northern Ushba(4694 m) and South Ushba(4710 m).
The main passes of the GKH in this junction are:
Pass 29 - Chalaat, 3B - between the peaks of Chatyn Zapadny and Malaya Ushba, the pass of Academician Aleksandrov is projected onto the same pass, 3B - between Chatyn and Shchurovsky peak
Pass 30 - Ushbinsky, 3A - between the massifs of Ushba and Shkheldy.
f) Shkhelda array.
Peak Heights Shkhelda massif(from left to right):
Eastern- 4368 m
Central- 4238 m
peak Aristova- 4229 m
peak The science- 4159 m
2nd Western- 4231 m
Western- 3976 m
By the way, in 1974 the titanic traverse of Shkhelda (all peaks) - Ushba - Mazeri (G. Agranovsky, A. Vezner, V. Gritsenko and Yu. Ustinov, 14.07-5.08 1974) was passed. The obligatory set of traverses of all peaks of Shkhelda includes five of the six named above: Shkhelda Western falls out, located on the far periphery, in the isthmus already on the outskirts of the Trade Unions peak.
The remaining peaks of the Shkhelda massif are considered gendarmes. Particularly stands out the gendarme Rooster - a tall rocky phallus next to the Eastern Tower of Shkhelda.
g) area of Malaya Shkhelda.
Not particularly noticeable, but interesting in its topology and rich in surrounding views of the mountain knot around Malaya Shkhelda(4012 m). GKH enters the frame on the left from the side of the peak adjacent to Shkhelda trade unions(3957 m) and, moving with a slight southern roll to the west through the lowering of the Bivachny pass (3820 m, 2B *), climbs the peak Athlete(3961 m, not to be confused with the peak Athlete's Day, which is in the Adyl-Su ridge), turns 90 degrees from it and by the northwestern course, bypassing the Sredny pass (3910 m), rises to the top of M. Shkhelda, the highest point of the region. Further, almost without changing course, the GKH passes along the double rocky ridge Akhsu (3916 m), which is visible from the edge from Kezgen and appears to be a front snowy slope with an easily recognizable berg at the base. Going down this slope (route 2A), the GKH turns due west and, slipping through the lane. Akhsu (2A, 3764 m), climbs a low and quite easy peak when approaching from any direction Yusengi Nodal(3846 m). Here the GKH says goodbye to us and goes beyond the right cut of the frame towards the Becho pass, and in the northeast direction (to the left and towards us) the Yusengi ridge departs from Uzlovaya. For more than a kilometer, it leads along a wide and flawlessly even snow ridge (the summit exit of the Akhsu glacier), while imperceptibly slips through the area of the Rodina pass (2A, 3805 m) and reaches its highest point at the top Yusengi(3870). Then it descends in a long course into the Baksan valley (in the picture along the ridge in our direction).
Both Yusengi peaks and the Rodina pass give gorgeous views towards Elbrus and Donguz, no other observation point will give you a larger view of the Elbrus-Donguz expanse. The top of the Malaya Shkhelda is an excellent viewpoint of the entire adjacent Georgian sector, and the Fizkulturnik peak gives an amazing close view of the Shkhelda-Ushba-Mazeri link and the Ushba glacier in the pit between them.
Ascent on foot to the peak Athlete from the lane. Medium - a matter of 6-8 minutes. Climbing from there to the top of Malaya Shkhelda - opposite 2A along the old fragile rocks. The rocky traverse M. Shkhelda - Akhsu is already classified as 2B, and the longer traverse in the other direction - M. Shkhelda - Fizkulturnik peak - Profsoyuzov peak - as 3A.
The peaks indicated in the picture form a chain above the cirque of the Akhsu glacier, open (not covered by moraine sediments) along its entire course from the source to the place where it flows into the Shkhelda glacier. There is no more extended section of the open glacier in the gorges from Adyrsu to Azau.
h) Donguzorun and Nakra array.
When you look at the Donguzorun massif with cover(4269 m) from Terskol, you wonder: well, why was this Nakra called Nakra and even called it, if it is nothing more than an appendage of a really serious and sign-defining mountain Donguzorun? When you stand in the upper reaches of the Yusengi gorge and look from the bottom up at the monumental eastern wall of Donguz under the age-old ice shell, you are even more surprised: what does Nakra have to do with it and where is she, this dependent baby? But when you look at the Donguz massif from Kezgen, the global picture becomes clear. The western peak of Donguz is the center of a regular three-pointed star. From it to the southeast (to the left in the picture) stretches the Donguz ridge, it is he who makes up the main part of the complex - the Donguzorun massif itself with its three adjacent peaks: Donguzorun East(4442 m), Main(4454 m) and West(4429 m). From the western summit, the northeastern spur of the Donguz descends directly on us, which, at the intermediate peak Interkosmos(3731 m, in the photo from Kezgen it is a gentle snow-covered pyramid) is divided into two branches, a very short northern one, which gracefully descends to the Donguzorun River above the Chegetskaya glade, and the one that is more authentic - the eastern, Kogutai (we see a shallow flat snow bowl of the western circus of Kogutai). In this branch, above the glacial cirque, two similar triangular tops are clearly visible - Big Kogutai(3819 m), it is to the left, and Small Kogutai(3732 m). The Main Range itself from the western peak of Donguz goes west (to the right), immediately jumps onto the Nakra tower and then gracefully descends to the hospitable Donguzorun pass (1A, 2302).
Nevertheless, it would be a great injustice - and a factual mistake - to consider Nakru not an independent peak, but just a side appendage of Donguz. The fact is that it is to her, and not to the dominant neighbor, from the south that adjoins ridge Tsalgmyl, which is very long in itself and to which, like a rod, numerous side spurs are attached, filling the vast space surrounded by the Inguri River (from the south) and its primary tributaries Nakra (from the west) and Dolroy (from the east). Only a small inner region was subjugated by Donguzorun - the one that occupies a modest and short Dolra Range, sheltered three kilometers to the GKH and adjacent to the Main peak of Donguz.
The topology of the Donguzorun-Nakra array is interesting. There is a general long and monotonous gentle ascent from the southern, Georgian side, where the multi-branched Kvish glacier is freely spread (and from where G. Merzbacher, 1891 and R. Gelbling, 1903 routes were laid to the peaks of Donguz at the turn of the 19-20 centuries - both 2A ), and then, upon reaching the border ridge line, everything abruptly breaks down, into Russia, by the eastern and northern walls of the massif, glorious for their difficult climbing routes (categories from 4B to 5B). And right behind the dumping of the eastern and northern walls of Donguz - greenery and the Cheget-Terskol charms of civilization.
In connection with such an extraordinary topology in the winter of 1989, the following story happened on Donguz. As part of the mountaineering championship on the Northern Face of Donguzorun (strong route 5B Khergiani), a deuce climbed from Kyiv, but soon after reaching the top they did not get in touch and disappeared. They didn’t have any food (they dropped it on the rise). Winter, February, frost, bad weather. We found them only on the 8th day ... at the Minvod airport (!). .
i) Elbrus.
To the observer on the top of Kezgen Elbrus converted to his Eastern summit(5621 m), and it is as symmetrical as possible in terms of the central center line and side exits. The western peak of the mountain (5642 m) is completely closed by the Eastern one.
On the Eastern peak in its right part, rocks are distinguishable against the sky; they border the summit crater with a 20-meter wall. The highest point of the dome is located on the southern (left in the picture) edge of the crater. This summit crater is open to the east, in the direction of us, and on the slope half a kilometer below it gapes a side crater, and under it the Achkeryakol lava flow (ALF) stretches further down - a chain of scree rocks of volcanic origin. This stream descends to the ice fields of East Elbrus, giving rise to the rivers Irik and Irikchat.
On the northern (right to the viewer) slope of Elbrus, two spots of rocky outcrops are visible against the sky - approximately at 4600 and 5100 m. The upper ones are Lenz rocks, so named in honor of the expedition member General Emmanuel who reached them: "..One of the academicians - Mr. Lenz - climbed to a height of 15200 feet. The total height of Elbrus above the level of the Atlantic Ocean is determined by the value of 16800 feet"(quoted). Each of these altitude values was obtained with more than a 10% error, but their ratio suffers from errors much less and, with reference to the currently accepted height of Elbrus (5642 m), allows us to estimate the height of the rocks reached by Lenz as 5100 m. So, we are talking about the upper rock outcrops.
A few words about the historical route of Douglas Freshfield to the Eastern peak of Elbrus (1868). The mountaintop route classifier leads Freshfield through Priyut-11, but he took a different route (described in detail in his bestselling book Exploration of the Central Caucasus). The group left the village of Urusbievs (Upper Baksan) and the first day on horseback moved along the Baksan valley, and the second day they climbed up the Terskol gorge, from where the dome of Elbrus first appeared, and reached the bivouac area near the Ice Base. The group reached the top at 3 o'clock in the morning. Stepping on the glacier, she went in bundles in a straight course to the cone and first reached a height from which the spurs opened towards the distant steppe, and then, already at the beginning of the ascent along the cone, she met the sun. By half past seven, at an altitude of 4800 m, the group reached the rocks of the upper part of the cone and at 10h40m reached the summit in the area of the current obelisk.
“This peak was at the end of a horseshoe-shaped ridge crowned with three elevations and framing a snowy plateau on three sides, open to the east. We walked—or rather, ran—up the ridge to the very end, passing two significant drops and visiting all three peaks. … [At the same time] we naturally looked out to see if there was a second peak somewhere, but it was nowhere to be found. It seemed to us that the western slope abruptly breaks down to Karachay and that there were no dense clouds that could hide a peak approximately the same height as ours. But we were wrong: the western, slightly higher peak was completely hidden by haze ... It must be remembered that before this ascent we had never seen Elbrus and, therefore, had only a vague idea of \u200b\u200bthe structure of the mountain.
Having built a “stone man” on top, the group at the beginning of the twelfth began to descend along the ascent path, descended into the valley in the evening and the next day returned to the Urusbievs, where they were greeted with greetings and treats.
“We were caught in the crossfire of questions about how it is up there, and we were sad to report that we did not see a giant rooster there, which lives in the sky and welcomes the sunrise with a cry and flapping wings, and greets intruders with a beak and claws, wanting to protect the treasure from people.
Routes are routes, but in the case of Elbrus one cannot remain silent about his own biography. Why is it that the Main Caucasian Range seems to be the main one, and its iconic peaks - Elbrus and Kazbek - are somewhere on the side? Because they are volcanoes. In the Greater Caucasus, volcanism is associated with crushing earth's crust on the late stage mountain building. The Elbrus volcano was formed in the Bokovoy ridge on the watershed of the Malka, Baksan and Kuban rivers, and it is confined to the intersection of the longitudinal Tyrnyauz fault zone and the transverse Elbrus fault. In the southwestern part of the mountain, the remains of an ancient crater have been preserved in the form of rocks of Khotutau-Azau. Now the two-headed volcano is planted on the upper part of the ancient crater - a highly raised pedestal (base) made of ancient rocks of granites and crystalline schists.
Elbrus as a volcano was born about 2 million years ago. All the mountains of this region then rose as low hills, and powerful eruptions of magma rich in gases formed first volcanic cone(its remnants in the area of the Irikchat pass). After many hundreds of thousands of years the volcano is working again- almost a kilometer-long cliff speaks of its power Kyukurtlu. On the section of this wall, one can clearly see how layers of volcanic bombs, slag, tuffs and ash alternate with frozen lava flows. Explosive eruptions and outpourings of thick and viscous lavas alternated many times, and when the volcano began to subside, hot gases and solutions still penetrated through the thickness of volcanic rocks for a long time. Due to this, layers of sulfur were formed, which are now turning yellow against the dark red background of the Kyukurtlu cliffs.
Now the wall routes to Kyukyurtly are considered one of the most difficult in the Caucasus.
Third phase of activity volcano, about 200 thousand years ago, was restrained. Outpourings of lava descended into the Baksan valley over and over again. The slowly cooling lava shrank in volume and cracked, and wonderful columnar structures formed in it, which we see on the walls rising above the road from the village. Terskol to the observatory, as well as forming the left side of the gloomy Azau gorge.
Fourth phase of activity volcano - 60-70 thousand years ago - was extremely stormy. Explosions knocked out a cork of frozen ancient rocks from the vent of the volcano, and the volcanic material spread for tens of kilometers (discovered near Tyrnyauz, in the Chegem Valley). At this time formed western peak Elbrus. The eruptions formed a loose stratum of volcanic bombs, tuffs, and other products, mainly on the western and northern slopes. When the energy of the volcano decreased, outpourings of lavas began - now to the upper reaches of the ancient Malka valley, and not to Baksan.
Elbrus area from space - on Google maps.Maps:
Topology of the Western and Eastern peaks of Elbrus close-up.
The highest point of the Eastern Peak is visible, located in the southern part of the summit dome. Being on the East Peak, it is not always obvious where the highest point is...
The Kezgen campaign of 2007, in which photographic materials for PANORAMA-1 were obtained, is described in the 2nd part of Igor Pasha's article .. The photographic materials themselves are also presented there, in a much larger volume ..
We also give a number of basic links on the topic of the publication:
http://caucatalog.narod.ru- Base of passes, peaks, valleys, glaciers and other objects of the Caucasus with photographs (more than 2200 objects and 7400 photographs as of January 2010), reports on mountain hikes. The author of the site caucatalog is Mikhail Golubev (Moscow).
The authors will be grateful for constructive comments, indication of factual inaccuracies and additional information provided. All this will be taken into account with gratitude when updating the article!
Caucasian mountains- the great division between Europe and Asia. The Caucasus is a narrow strip of land between the Black and Caspian Seas. It strikes with an incredible variety of climate, flora and fauna.
The pride of the Caucasus is its mountains! The Caucasus is not the Caucasus without mountains. The mountains are unique, majestic and impregnable. The Caucasus is amazingly beautiful. He is so different. You can look at the mountains for hours.
The mountain range of the Greater Caucasus is a lot of pastures, forests, as well as amazing natural wonders. More than 2 thousand glaciers descend through narrow gorges. The chain of large mountains stretched for almost one and a half thousand kilometers from the northwest to the southeast. The main peaks exceed 5 thousand meters and significantly affect the weather in the regions. The clouds that form over the Black Sea are pouring rain, running into the mountain peaks of the Caucasus. On one side of the ridge there is a harsh landscape, and on the other - rough vegetation. Here you can find more than 6 and a half thousand plant species, a quarter of which cannot be found anywhere else in the world.
There are many legends about the origin of the Caucasus Mountains:
A long time ago, when the earth was still very young, a huge plain stretched on the site of the modern territory of the Caucasus. Huge sled heroes lived here in peace and love. They were kind and prudent, they met with joy both day and night, they knew neither evil, nor envy, nor deceit. The ruler of this people was the gray-haired giant Elbrus, and he had a beautiful son, Beshtau, and his son had a charming bride, the beautiful Mashuki. But they had an evil envious - Kite. And he decided to harm the Narts. He prepared a terrible potion in which he mixed the teeth of a wolf, the tongue of a boar and the eyes of a snake. At a big feast, he poured a potion into all the drinks of the Narts. And, having drunk it, they acquired the greed of a boar, the anger of a wolf, and the deceit of a snake. And from that time on, the happy and carefree life of the Narts ended. The father decided to take the young bride away from his son and, sending him on a hunt, wanted to forcefully marry Mashuki. But Mashuki resisted Elbrus. And in an evil battle she lost her wedding ring. I saw the Beshtau ring and hurried to help the bride. And a terrible battle began not for life, but for death, and half of the Narts fought on the side of Elbrus, and the other half on the side of Beshtau. And the battle lasted for several days and nights, and all the sledges perished. Elbrus chopped his son into five parts, and the son, inflicting the last blow, dismembered the gray head of his father into two halves. Mashuki came out after the battle on the battlefield and did not see a single living soul. She approached her lover and plunged a dagger into her heart. So the life of a great and old people stopped.
And now the Caucasian mountains rise in this place: the helmet from the head of Beshtau is Mount Zheleznaya, the Mashuk ring is Mount Koltso, five peaks are Mount Beshtau, nearby is Mount Mashuk and far, far from the others - gray-haired or simply snow-covered handsome Elbrus.
The Caucasus Mountains are the result of the convergence of two plates
Let's look at one of the narrowest places in this grandiose mountain belt. At its northern outskirts, in the Ciscaucasia, there are flat areas that belong to a solid plate called the Scythian. Further to the south are the sublatitudinal (i.e., stretching approximately from west to east) mountains of the Greater Caucasus up to 5 km high, the narrow depressions of Transcaucasia - the Rionskaya and Kura lowlands - and also sublatitudinal, but convex to the north mountain ranges Lesser Caucasus in Georgia, Armenia, Eastern Turkey and Western Iran (up to 5 km high).
To the south are the plains of Northern Arabia, which, like the plains of Ciscaucasia, belong to a very strong, monolithic Arabian lithospheric plate.
Therefore, the Scythian and Arabian plates- it's like two parts of a giant vise, which are slowly approaching, crushing everything that is between them. It is curious that directly opposite the northern, relatively narrow end of the Arabian Plate, in Eastern Turkey and Western Iran, there are the highest mountains in comparison with the mountains located to the west and east. They rise just in the place where the Arabian plate, like some kind of solid wedge, squeezed the pliable deposits most strongly.