The Volga River is amazing and powerful. Great Russian river Volga

Volga- this is the most long river in Europe and the longest in the world among the rivers flowing into an inland reservoir.

The river originates in the Valdai Upland, near the village of VolgoVerkhovye in the Tver Region, crosses the Central Russian Upland of the European part of Russia and reaches the foothills of the Urals, turns sharply south and runs down the Ponto-Caspian Lowland and flows near Astrakhan into the Caspian Sea. In the upper reaches within the Valdai Upland, the Volga passes through the small lakes Verkhit, Sterzh, Vselug, Peno and Volgo. As early as 1843, a dam (Upper Volga Beishlot) was built at the source of Lake Volgo to regulate the flow of water and maintain navigable depths in low water. The Volga begins at an altitude of 228 m, and its mouth is 28 m below sea level.

The source of the Volga

It is customary to divide the river into three parts: the Upper Volga - from the source to the mouth of the Oka, the Middle Volga - from the confluence of the Oka to the mouth of the Kama, the Lower - from the confluence of the Kama to the mouth.

In total, about 150,000 rivers and streams flow down to the Volga. Although the river receives its main food from melt and groundwater.



Before the peoples who have chosen its shores, it appears in different guises. The name Volga comes from the Baltic "flowing stream, wetland", as the common version says. Indeed, the largest river in Europe is born from a small spring, lost in the middle of swampy lakes. One can hardly recognize a great river in a thin stream, which becomes full-flowing only after a few tens of kilometers from its source.






The Volga reveals all its beauty after the confluence with the Oka near Nizhny Novgorod. The Volga actually flows into the more full-flowing Oka (this is clearly visible from a bird's eye view), although it is commonly believed that the opposite is true. In a similar way, the Volga flows into the more full-flowing Kama south of Kazan, retaining its former name. And this Volga is the most famous river in Russia, one of largest rivers the globe and the largest in Europe. Among the Russian rivers, only the Ob, Yenisei and Lena can compete with the Volga. The length of the Volga is 3530 km. The Volga is more than a thousand kilometers longer than the Danube and three and a half times longer than the Rhine.





Nizhny Novgorod. Confluence of the Oka and Volga.
The Volga is one of the symbols of Russia. Over the centuries, the river has repeatedly changed its name. In written sources, the Volga is found for the first time in the "Geography" of Ptolemy in the II century. n. e. under the name Ra - "generous." Turkic-speaking peoples - Tatars, Mari, Chuvashs call it Idel, Yul, Atal, which translates as "Great River". Arabs and Byzantines also called it Itil. The lower reaches of the Volga River lie on the route from Asia to Europe. The passage between the Ural Range and the Caspian Sea was called by historians the Great Gates. Through them, the peoples of Asia penetrated into Europe.

Since ancient times, the river has been beneficial to people.

From the 13th century, the Volga trade route became known. The upper reaches of the Volga lead to Europe, and the Middle and Lower Volga through the Caspian Sea open the way to the East. Forests were floated along the river, fishing flourished.

In the Middle Ages, the Volga was a natural border between the forest principalities of the Slavs and the territory of the steppe nomads. The importance of the Volga as the most important trade route between East and West influenced the growth of cities on its banks. But this river was of particular importance in the history of the formation and development of the Russian state. For many centuries, the Volga and its tributaries have seen many bloody battles between Russian knights and steppe conquerors. This struggle lasted until the middle of the 16th century, when in a short time the government of Ivan the Terrible managed to take control of the entire territory of the Middle and Lower Volga region from Kazan to Astrakhan. The entire Volga river system is in the hands of the young Russian state. This contributed to the new flourishing of the Volga trade.

There are several dozens of Russian folk songs dedicated to the Volga, in which this river acts as a symbol of the Motherland and at the same time a symbol of Russian will. Having subjugated the entire territory of the Volga basin, the tsarist government was far from immediately able to control it. Volga robbers - the famous "Ponizovaya freemen" - robbed the Volga merchants until the beginning of the 19th century. Twice - under Stepan Razin and Emelyan Pugachev - the Volga basin became the scene of a fierce war.

Several dozen cities are located on the Volga, and several dozen peoples inhabiting Russia live along its banks. Flowing through a large part of the regions of European Russia, the Volga is a magical thread on which a necklace of the most beautiful Russian cities is strung. Rzhev and Staritsa, Tver and Kimry, Kalyazin and Uglich, Yaroslavl and Kostroma, Nizhny Novgorod and Kazan, Samara and Saratov, Volgograd and Astrakhan, and my beloved Ulyanovsk - these are just the most famous of them. In 1942, it was on the banks of the Volga, near the walls of the city, then called Stalingrad, that a radical change occurred in the course of the Great Patriotic War and the entire Second World War. The winged words: “There is no land for us beyond the Volga” then sounded like a symbol of faith for every Soviet person.


Bridge in Saratov


Astrakhan, embankment


View from the Volga.


Ulyanovsk (the narrowest point of the Kuibyshev reservoir in Ulyanovsk)


Ulyanovsk.


The center of Ulyanovsk on the banks of the Volga.


View from the Volga to Ulyanovsk at night


Volgograd.

Bridge. Volgograd.

Panorama of the city of Cheboksary from the Volga


Cheboksary

River port of Cheboksary


Ah, Samara is a town


Samara


Nizhny Novgorod


View of the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin


The confluence of the Oka and Volga in Nizhny Novgorod


Chkalov Stairs in Nizhny Novgorod


Kazan
But the Volga is not only a necklace of cities, but also a necklace of the peoples of Russia. Along its banks, besides Russians, Maris and Chuvashs, Tatars and Kalmyks, and many smaller peoples have long lived. All of them have been residents of a single Russian state for many centuries. This is symbolized by the domes of Orthodox churches and minarets of Muslim mosques rising above one of the most beautiful cities of the Volga region - Kazan, the walls and towers of the Kazan Kremlin, built by Russian and Tatar masters, look into the Volga.


Kazan.



Kazan Kremlin
Many peoples and rulers for several centuries tried to "improve" the Volga, to improve its transport capabilities. Back in the 16th century, the Turkish Sultan Selim II made the first attempt to connect the Volga with the Azov and Black Seas. The grandiose work on the construction of this canal that he began was not completed. Later, Peter the Great also decided to connect the Volga with the Don, breaking through a canal just south of the canal of Sultan Selim. In the 19th century, several canal systems were created connecting the Volga with the then capital, St. Petersburg. The Soviet state opened a new era in the creation of artificial shipping lanes. In the memorable year of 1937, the Volga-Moscow canal was put into operation. In the 1940s, the Volga-Baltic waterway was reconstructed. Finally, in the early 50s, Tsar Peter I came true - the Volga-Don Canal connected the Volga with the Azov and Black Seas.

Thanks to the Volga-Baltic, White Sea-Baltic and Volga-Don canals, the Volga became the core of the unified water system of European Russia, and Moscow became the river port of five seas. But man improved the Volga not only with canals. In the 20th century, the grandiose Volga cascade of hydroelectric power stations was created. Huge dams blocked the river, creating new reservoirs - Ivankovskoye (Moscow Sea), Uglichskoye, Rybinsk, Gorky, Cheboksary, Kuibyshev, Saratov and Volgograd.










It is customary to divide the Volga into three parts: the upper Volga - from the source to the mouth of the Oka, the middle Volga - from the confluence of the Oka to the mouth of the Kama, and the lower Volga - from the confluence of the Kama to the Caspian Sea. After the construction of the Kuibyshev reservoir, the boundary between the middle and lower Volga is usually considered to be the Zhigulevskaya HPP upstream of Samara.
Between Tver and Rybinsk on the Volga, the Ivankovskoye reservoir with a dam and a hydroelectric power station near Dubna, the Uglich reservoir (hydroelectric power station near Uglich) and the Rybinsk reservoir (hydroelectric power station near Rybinsk) were created. In the Rybinsk-Roslavl region and below Kostroma, the river flows in a narrow valley among high banks, crossing the Uglich-Danilov and Galich-Chukhloma uplands. Further, the river flows along the Unzha and Balakhna lowlands. At Gorodets (above the city of Nizhny Novgorod), the Volga, blocked by the dam of the Nizhny Novgorod hydroelectric power station, forms the Gorky reservoir. The main tributaries of the upper Volga are Selizharovka, Tvertsa, Mologa, Sheksna and Unzha.




In the middle reaches, below the confluence of the Oka, the Volga becomes even more full-flowing. It flows along the northern edge of the Volga Upland. The right bank of the river is high, the left is low. The Cheboksary hydroelectric power station was built near Cheboksary, above which the reservoir of the same name is located. For a number of reasons, the hydroelectric power station has not yet been brought to its design capacity, and the level of the Cheboksary reservoir is 5 meters below the design level. In this regard, the section from the Nizhny Novgorod hydroelectric power station to Nizhny Novgorod remains extremely shallow, and navigation on it is carried out thanks to water releases from the Nizhny Novgorod hydroelectric power station in morning time. The largest tributaries of the Volga in its middle reaches are the Oka, Sura, Vetluga and Sviyaga.

In the lower reaches, after the confluence of the Kama, the Volga becomes a mighty river. It flows here along the Volga Upland. Near Togliatti, above Samarskaya Luka, which forms the Volga, skirting the Zhiguli mountains, the dam of the Zhigulevskaya hydroelectric power station (the former Volga hydroelectric power station named after V. I. Lenin) was built; above the dam extends the Kuibyshev reservoir. Downstream - near the city of Balakovo, the dam of the Saratov hydroelectric power station was erected. The Lower Volga receives relatively small tributaries - Samara, Big Irgiz, Eruslan.







In these photos, the Kuibyshev Sea along the coast of Ulyanovsk
21 km above Volgograd, the left branch separates from the river - the Akhtuba River, 537 km long, which flows parallel to the main channel. The vast space between the Volga and Akhtuba, crossed by numerous channels and old rivers, is called the Volga-Akhtuba floodplain; the width of floods within this floodplain reached 20-30 km before. On the Volga, between the beginning of Akhtuba and Volgograd, there is the Volzhskaya HPP (the former Volzhskaya HPP named after the 22nd Congress of the CPSU).

The Volga Delta is a huge region. Breaking into hundreds of branches, the Volga has created an amazing world here, where nature has retained its original beauty. Among the lotus fields in the Volga delta, thousands of birds, fish, and animals live. From the sea, sturgeon, beluga, stellate sturgeon often enter the channels, carp, bream, pike perch, crayfish are numerous in these waters, reaching fantastic sizes here. Desert landscapes give way to meadows, coastal forests, dense thickets of reeds and the rarest and most beautiful miracle flower - the lotus, which occupies 5,000 hectares in the delta. The river delta begins at the point of separation from its channel of the Buzan branch (46 km north of Astrakhan) and is one of the largest in Russia. There are up to 500 branches, channels and small rivers in the delta. The main branches are Bakhtemir, Kamyzyak, Staraya Volga, Bolda, Buzan, Akhtuba. The Volga Delta is the only place in the European part of Russia where you can see in the wild amazing plant- lotus. The lotus from the Volga delta is somewhat different from the typical one and therefore it is separated into a separate species - the Caspian lotus. Lotus fields in the Volga delta - the largest flowering areas on the planet - reach 15 km in length and 3 km in width. The Volga Delta is a real kingdom of birds, where more than 280 species of birds live. In 1919, one of the first reserves in Russia, Astrakhansky, was created here, in 1984, by decision of UNESCO, it was given the status of a biosphere reserve. In 1997, another reserve was created in the Volga delta - Bogdinsko-Baskunchaksky.







The water temperature of the river in the middle of summer reaches 20-25°C. At Astrakhan, the Volga opens in mid-March. In the first half of April, the opening occurs on the upper Volga and below Kamyshin, on the rest of its length - in mid-April. The river freezes in the upper and middle reaches at the end of November, in the lower - at the beginning of December; Free from ice remains about 200 days, and near Astrakhan - about 260 days.

Geographical position The Volga and its major tributaries determined already by the 8th century its importance as a trade route between East and West. Fabrics, metals were exported from Central Asia, furs, wax, and honey were exported from the Slavic lands. In the 9th-10th centuries. such centers as Itil, Bolgar, Novgorod, Rostov, Suzdal, and Murom played a significant role in trade. Since the 11th century, trade has been weakening, and in the 13th century, the Mongol-Tatar invasion disrupted economic ties. The exception was the basin of the upper Volga, where Novgorod, Tver and the cities of Vladimir-Suzdal Rus played an active role. Since the 14th century, the significance of the trade route has been restored, and the role of such centers as Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, and Astrakhan has been growing.

The conquest of the Kazan and Astrakhan khanates by Ivan IV the Terrible in the middle of the 16th century led to the unification of the entire Volga river system in the hands of Russia, which contributed to the flourishing of the Volga trade. In the 17th century, new large cities appeared - Samara, Saratov, Tsaritsyn; Yaroslavl, Kostroma, and Nizhny Novgorod play an important role. Large caravans of ships float along the Volga. In the 18th century, the main trade routes moved to the west, and the economic development of the lower Volga was hampered by sparse settlement and nomad raids.

In the 19th century, there was a significant development of the Volga trade route after the connection of the Mariinsky river system the Volga and Neva basins (1808); a large river fleet arises, the first steamboat of which went in 1820. A huge army of barge haulers (about 300 thousand people.) Works on the Volga. Large shipments of grain, salt, fish, and later oil and cotton are made along the river. The Nizhny Novgorod fair acquires great economic importance.

Until the middle of the 19th century, the territories of the Volga basin were mainly famous for their fertile soils. At the turn of the 19th-20th centuries, machine-building, metallurgical, chemical, and timber processing plants began to appear along the Volga.

In the 1930s, the development of rich oil fields along the lower reaches of the river began. Before the discovery of oil and gas in Western Siberia The Volga region occupied the first place in Russia in terms of reserves and extraction of minerals. From the end of the 1930s, the Volga also began to be used as a source of hydropower. At this time, the plan "Big Volga" was adopted, which involved the construction of a cascade of hydroelectric power stations on the Volga and its tributaries.

In the post-war period, the economic role of the Volga increased significantly, especially after the creation of large reservoirs and hydroelectric power stations. After the completion of the construction of the Volga-Kama cascade of HPPs, the total electricity generation reached 40-45 billion kWh per year, the area of ​​​​the reservoir mirror was about 38 thousand square kilometers, the total volume was 288 cubic kilometers, and the useful volume was 90 cubic kilometers. .. Today the Volga-Kama cascade, one of the largest in the world, provides 20% of hydroelectric power in Russia.

Today, the possibilities of the river are enormous - it is woven into the country's water network with man-made canals. The Volga is connected to the Baltic Sea by the Volga-Baltic Waterway; with the White Sea - through the White Sea-Baltic Canal and the Severodvinsk system; with the Azov and Black Seas - through the Volga-Don Canal. An important role is played by the Moscow Canal, which connects the Volga with Moscow and was created for the purpose of navigation, water supply of the capital and watering of the Moscow River. Currently, regular navigation along the Volga is carried out from the city of Tver. The Volga is connected to five seas of Europe and carries more than half of the country's river cargo and passengers.












The Volga generously distributes its resources, but it is becoming increasingly difficult for it to renew them.

After the creation of reservoirs for hydroelectric power stations, the Volga resembles a chain of flowing lakes: the water regime of the river has changed, and annual climatic shifts are noticeable. Fish are disappearing, the river is becoming shallow due to excessive water consumption. The toxic load is great: the Volga basin accounts for more than a third of the country's industrial effluents.

The problems of the river are known, and there is hope that many of them will soon be resolved, because the importance of the Volga for Russia can hardly be overestimated. It flows through the entire European part of our country, covering 17 subjects of the Russian Federation, and the area of ​​its basin is 1360 thousand square kilometers, which is 8% of the territory.














Photo from the Internet.

There are stories about travels to Cuba, Jamaica, the Dominican Republic, Switzerland, Spain, Peru and Venezuela.

Description: Volga (in ancient times - Ra, in the Middle Ages - Itil, or Etel), - a river in the European part of Russia, one of the largest rivers in the world and the largest in Europe. Length 3530 km (before the construction of reservoirs 3690 km). The area of ​​the basin is 1360 thousand km2.

The Volga originates on the Valdai Hills at an altitude of 228 m and flows into the Caspian Sea. The mouth lies 28 m below sea level. The total fall is 256 m. The Volga receives about 200 tributaries. The left tributaries are more numerous and more abundant than the right ones. The river system of the Volga basin includes 151 thousand watercourses (rivers, streams and temporary watercourses) with a total length of 574 thousand km. The Volga basin extends from the Valdai and Central Russian uplands in the west to the Urals in the east. At the latitude of Saratov, the basin narrows sharply, and the Volga flows from Kamyshin to the Caspian Sea without tributaries. The main, feeding part of the Volga drainage area, from its sources to Nizhny Novgorod and Kazan, is located in the forest zone, the middle part of the basin to Samara and Saratov is in the forest-steppe zone, the lower part is in the steppe zone to Volgograd, and to the south - in the semi-desert zone.

It is customary to divide the Volga into three parts: the upper Volga - from the source to the mouth of the Oka, the middle Volga - from the confluence of the Oka to the mouth of the Kama, and the lower Volga - from the confluence of the Kama to the Caspian Sea. After the construction of the Kuibyshev reservoir, the boundary between the middle and lower Volga is usually considered to be the Zhigulevskaya HPP upstream of Samara.

The source of the Volga is the key near the village of Volgoverkhovye in the Tver region. In the upper reaches, within the Valdai Upland, the Volga passes through small lakes - Verkhit, Sterzh, Vselug, Peno and Volgo. As early as 1843, a dam (Upper Volga Beishlot) was built at the source of Lake Volgo to regulate the flow of water and maintain navigable depths in low water. Between Tver and Rybinsk on the Volga, the Ivankovskoye reservoir with a dam and a hydroelectric power station near Dubna, the Uglich reservoir (hydroelectric power station near Uglich) and the Rybinsk reservoir (hydroelectric power station near Rybinsk) were created. In the region of Rybinsk - Yaroslavl and below Kostroma, the river flows in a narrow valley among high banks, crossing the Uglich-Danilov and Galich-Chukhloma uplands. Further, the river flows along the Unzha and Balakhna lowlands. At Gorodets (above the city of Nizhny Novgorod), the Volga, blocked by the dam of the Nizhny Novgorod hydroelectric power station, forms the Gorky reservoir. The main tributaries of the upper Volga are Selizharovka, Tvertsa, Mologa, Sheksna and Unzha. In the middle reaches, below the confluence of the Oka, the Volga becomes even more full-flowing. It flows along the northern edge of the Volga Upland. The right bank of the river is high, the left is low. The Cheboksary hydroelectric power station was built near Cheboksary, above which the reservoir of the same name is located. For a number of reasons, the hydroelectric power station has not yet been brought to its design capacity, and the level of the Cheboksary reservoir is 5 meters below the design level. In this regard, the section from the Nizhny Novgorod hydroelectric power station to Nizhny Novgorod remains extremely shallow, and navigation on it is carried out thanks to water releases from the Nizhny Novgorod hydroelectric power station in the morning. AT this moment the final decision on filling the Cheboksary reservoir to the design level has not been made. As an alternative option, the possibility of constructing a low-pressure dam combined with a road bridge above Nizhny Novgorod is being considered. The largest tributaries of the Volga in its middle reaches are the Oka, Sura, Vetluga and Sviyaga.

In the lower reaches, after the confluence of the Kama, the Volga becomes a mighty river. It flows here along the Volga Upland. Near Togliatti, above the Samarskaya Luka, which is formed by the Volga, skirting the Zhiguli mountains, the dam of the Zhigulevskaya hydroelectric power station (the former Volga hydroelectric power station named after V. I. Lenin) was built; above the dam extends the Kuibyshev reservoir. Downstream - near the city of Balakovo, the dam of the Saratov hydroelectric power station was erected. The Lower Volga receives relatively small tributaries - Samara, Big Irgiz, Eruslan.

21 km above Volgograd, the left branch - Akhtuba (length 537 km) separates from the river, which flows parallel to the main channel. The vast space between the Volga and Akhtuba, crossed by numerous channels and old rivers, is called the Volga-Akhtuba floodplain; the width of floods within this floodplain reached 20-30 km before. On the Volga, between the beginning of Akhtuba and Volgograd, there is the Volzhskaya HPP (the former Volzhskaya HPP named after the 22nd Congress of the CPSU).

The river delta begins at the point of separation from its channel of the Buzan branch (46 km north of Astrakhan) and is one of the largest in Russia. There are up to 500 branches, channels and small rivers in the delta. The main branches are Bakhtemir, Kamyzyak, Staraya Volga, Bolda, Buzan, Akhtuba (of which Bakhtemir is navigable).

The Volga is mainly fed by snow (60% of annual runoff), ground (30%) and rain (10%) waters. The natural regime is characterized by spring floods (April - June), low water levels during the summer and winter low water periods, and autumn rain floods (October). Annual fluctuations in the level of the Volga before the construction of a cascade of waterworks reached 11 m near Tver, 15-17 m below the Kama mouth, and 3 m near Astrakhan. With the construction of reservoirs, the flow of the Volga was regulated, level fluctuations sharply decreased.

The average annual water consumption at the Upper Volga Beishlot is 29 m3 / s, at Tver - 182, at Yaroslavl - 1110, at Nizhny Novgorod - 2970, at Samara - 7720, at Volgograd - 8060 m3 / s. Below Volgograd, the river loses about 2% of its discharge to evaporation. The maximum water flow during floods in the past below the confluence of the Kama reached 67,000 m3/s, and near Volgograd, as a result of a spill over the floodplain, they did not exceed 52,000 m3/s. In connection with the regulation of the runoff, the maximum flood discharges have sharply decreased, while the summer and winter low water discharges have greatly increased.

Prior to the creation of reservoirs, during the year, the Volga carried to the mouth about 25 million tons of sediment and 40-50 million tons of dissolved minerals. The water temperature of the river in the middle of summer (July) reaches 20-25°C. The Volga breaks up near Astrakhan in mid-March, in the first half of April, the break-up occurs on the upper Volga and below Kamyshin, for the rest of its length - in mid-April. The river freezes in the upper and middle reaches at the end of November, in the lower - at the beginning of December; Free from ice remains about 200 days, and near Astrakhan about 260 days. With the creation of reservoirs, the thermal regime of the Volga changed: in the upper pools, the duration of ice phenomena increased, and in the lower pools it became shorter.

Historical and economic-geographical essay. The geographical position of the Volga and its large tributaries determined already by the 8th century. its importance as a trade route between East and West. Fabrics, metals were exported from Central Asia, furs, wax, and honey were exported from the Slavic lands. In the 9th-10th centuries. such centers as Itil, Bolgar, Novgorod, Rostov, Suzdal, and Murom played a significant role in trade. From the 11th century trade weakens, and in the 13th century. the Mongol-Tatar invasion disrupted economic ties, except for the basin of the upper Volga, where Novgorod, Tver and the cities of Vladimir-Suzdal Rus played an active role. From the 14th century the significance of the trade route is being restored, the role of such centers as Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, Astrakhan is growing. Conquest by Ivan IV the Terrible in the middle of the 16th century. The Kazan and Astrakhan khanates led to the unification of the entire Volga river system in the hands of Russia, which contributed to the flourishing of the Volga trade in the 17th century. There are new large cities - Samara, Saratov, Tsaritsyn; Yaroslavl, Kostroma, and Nizhny Novgorod play an important role. Large caravans of ships (up to 500) float along the Volga. In the 18th century the main trade routes are moving west, and the economic development of the lower Volga is constrained by poor population and nomadic raids. The Volga basin in the 17th-18th centuries was the main area of ​​operations of the rebellious peasants and Cossacks during the peasant wars under the leadership of S. T. Razin and E. I. Pugachev.

In the 19th century there is a significant development of the Volga trade route after the connection of the Mariinsky river system of the Volga and Neva basins (1808); a large river fleet appeared (in 1820 - the first steamboat), a huge army of barge haulers (up to 300 thousand people) worked on the Volga. Large shipments of grain, salt, fish, and later oil and cotton are made along the Volga. The Nizhny Novgorod fair acquires great economic importance.

During the Civil War of 1918-1920, major military operations took place on the Volga, and it acquired important military and strategic importance. Since the end of the 30s. In the 20th century, the Volga also began to be used as a source of hydropower. During the Great Patriotic War of 1941–45, the largest Battle of Stalingrad (1942–43) took place in the East. In the post-war period, the economic role of the Volga increased significantly, especially after the creation of a number of large reservoirs and hydroelectric power stations. After the completion of the construction of the Volga-Kama cascade of HPPs, the total generation of electricity reached 40-45 billion kWh per year, the surface area of ​​the reservoirs was about 38 thousand km2, the total volume was 288 km3, and the useful volume was 90 km3.

The Volga is connected to the Baltic Sea by the Volga-Baltic Waterway; with the White Sea - through the White Sea-Baltic Canal and the Severodvinsk system; with the Azov and Black Seas - through the Volga-Don Canal. An important role is played by the Moscow Canal, which connects the Volga with Moscow and was created for the purpose of navigation, water supply of the capital and watering of the Moscow River. Currently, regular navigation along the Volga is carried out from the city of Tver. (According to the materials of the site: www.riverfleet.ru)

A.S. Glednev report "The Volga River - and its significance"

In Russia there are many large and beautiful rivers, such as - IRTYSH, LENA, ANGARA, OB. One of the largest and most beautiful Russian rivers in Europe is the Volga River, the 16th longest in the world.

"Each country has its own national river- wrote Dumas. - Russia has the VOLGA - the largest river in Europe, the queen of our rivers - and I hastened to bow to Her Majesty the Volga River! "One of the seas slowly retreated to the south about twenty million years ago, and then the Volga River flowed in its wake. The Volga did not begin in Valdai, but near the Ural Mountains. It seemed to cut a corner, taking the direction from there to the Zhiguli, and then carried water much further east than now. earth's crust, the formation of new heights and depressions, sharp fluctuations in the level of the Caspian Sea and other reasons forced the Volga River to change direction.

RA - this is how the Greek scientist Ptolemy called the Volga River in his "Geography". He lived far from the Volga, on the coast of Africa, in the city of Alexandria, but rumors about the great river also reached there. It was in the second century AD. ITIL, ETIL, ATIL... Such names of the Volga River are noted in medieval chronicles.

The source of the Volga River on the Valdai Upland, where groundwater comes out. Volga - typical flat river. The Volga River flows into the Caspian Sea. At the confluence of the Volga forms a delta with an area of ​​19 thousand square meters. km.

For almost 370 km. she rolls her waters from them for 3500 km. ships are allowed to move. At this distance, it descends no more than 250 m. The fall of the river is small. average speed currents - less than 1 m/s.

Most of the rivers are tributaries of other larger rivers. OKA is the right tributary of the Volga, KAMA is the left tributary of the Volga River. Smaller rivers, when flowing into larger ones, form the basin of the main river, due to which the rivers are full-flowing. The Volga river basin is 1360 thousand square meters. km.

The main food of the Volga River is melted spring waters. Rains, which fall mainly in summer, and groundwater, due to which the river lives in winter, play a lesser role in its nutrition. In accordance with this, in the annual level of the river, there are: high and prolonged spring floods, a fairly stable summer low water and a low winter low water. The duration of the flood is an average of 72 days. The maximum rise in water usually occurs in the first half of May, half a month after the spring ice drift. From the beginning of June to October - November, a summer low water is established. Thus, most of the navigation period, when the Volga River is ice-free (on average 200 days), coincides with the period of low low water levels (2 - 3 m).

The upper Volga - from the source to Nizhny Novgorod, to the confluence of the Oka, the middle - from the mouth of the Oka to the mouth of the Kama, the lower Volga - from the confluence of the Kama to the Caspian Sea.

From the city of Nizhny Novgorod, after the confluence of the Volga with the Oka, as is commonly believed, the middle course of the Volga begins. The width of the riverbed immediately more than doubles, then fluctuating in the range from 600 to 2000 m. And more.

The middle Volga is characterized by three main types of banks. On the right, rise unflooded at any water level older than the shore descending to the river in steep slopes; sometimes, at a turn, such a bank protrudes into the Volga River, forming a cliff. On the left, extremely gentle, gradually rising to a low meadow floodplain, sandy shores predominate, alternating with "ravines - steep, almost sheer slopes, clayey, sandy-clayey; in some places they reach a considerable height." noiselessly, solemnly and unhurriedly flow its waters; the mountain shore is reflected in them with a black shadow, and on the left side it is decorated with sandy rims of shallows, wide meadows with gold and green velvet "(M. Gorky," Foma Gordeev ").

The difference between the right and left banks of the Volga River affects the settlement and economic development of the banks of this river. The quiet backwaters of the left bank are widely used for mooring, wintering, repair and construction of ships: along the entire Trans-Volga coast of the Volga there are settlements of shipbuilding and ship repair plants.

Left-bank villages on the Volga River, and settlements are located, as a rule, far from the river, outside the low, flooded floodplain, with the exception in this respect are the villages on high ravines. The wide left-bank floodplain is rich in meadows; Collective farmers also come here to mow from the right bank, where floodplains are small. Another thing is on the right bank. The villages are often located "right above the Volga River", on the top of the bedrock bank and on the slopes.

The high right bank of the Volga River is fraught with a constant threat of landslides and landslides, which is unfavorable for settlement on it. The condition for their occurrence is the interbedding of water-resistant clayey and aquiferous sandy horizons observed on the right bank, with their exit towards the river. The Volga rivers saturated with water after snowmelt or summer showers, the upper sandy-argillaceous strata begin to slide along the water-resistant layer towards the river. This sliding can be very slow, but in the end, it can lead to a collapse. Landslides are being combated by strengthening dangerous sections of the coast, the construction of drainage systems.

Abstract: The Volga River

Volga river

1. Volga - the great Russian river

Our country is rich in rivers: there are almost 200 thousand of them. And if you pull them out one after another, you get a ribbon about 3 million km long, many dozens of times it could wrap around the globe along the equator.

"Throw a look at Russia from above - it has turned blue with rivers."

V. Mayakovsky

“Each country has its own national river. Russia has the Volga - the largest river in Europe, the queen of our rivers - and I hastened to bow to Her Majesty the Volga, ”Dumas wrote.

The Volga is the 16th longest river in the world and the 5th in Russia. Like a giant tree, the Volga spread its branches - tributaries - across the great Russian plain. It captured almost 1.5 million km2 within the boundaries of its basin. Born as a small stream among forests and swamps near the village of Volgoverkhovye in the center of the Valdai Upland, the Volga, on its way to the sea, receives tribute from numerous tributaries (the largest of them are the Oka and Kama) and turns into a mighty river, the largest in all of Europe, with a length of 3700 km, carrying its waters into the inner Caspian Sea-lake. In the lower reaches (after Volgograd) it has no tributaries.

“... - seven thousand rivers

She collected from all over -

Big and small - up to one,

What from Valdai to the Urals

They furrowed the globe of the earth "

A. Tvardovsky

(poem "For the distance distance")

The Volga is a typically flat river. From source to mouth, it descends only 256 meters. This is a very small slope compared to other great rivers in the world, which gives very great convenience for navigation.

“... they are slowly moving towards the banks of the Volga, - the left one, all drenched in the sun, spreads along to the edge of the sky, like a lush, green carpet, and the right waved its steep slopes, overgrown with forest, to the sky, and froze in stern peace. A broad-breasted river stretched majestically between them; noiselessly, solemnly and unhurriedly flow its waters ... "

M. Gorky

According to its natural features, the natural, former Volga is a typical Eastern European river mixed food with a predominance of snow, with a prolonged freeze-up and a summer decline in water.

During the year, a huge amount of water flows down the Volga - about 250 km3.

According to natural features, the Volga is usually divided into three parts. From the source to the confluence of the Oka, it is called the Upper Volga, then to the confluence of the Kama - the Middle and from the Samara Luka to the mouth - the Lower. The territory where the river flows is called the Upper Volga, Middle and Lower Volga regions, respectively.

2. Historical Volga

The great Russian river Volga has long been known to the Greeks. Ra (which meant "Generous") - this is how the Greek scientist Ptolemy called the Volga in his "Geography". He lived far from the Volga, on the coast of Africa, in the city of Alexandria, but rumors about the great river also reached there. It was in the 2nd century AD.

The Finnish tribes living on its banks called the Volga River - “Light”, “Shining”, and the Arabs in the Middle Ages called it “Iyshl” - “River of Rivers”. Some geographers believe that the name "Volga" comes from the Russian words "moisture", "water". Entire pages of the history of the Russian state and its people are connected with the word Volga. There was a time when, crushed by extortions, driven from the land, hungry and impoverished, the Volga peasants went to the great river. Here they huddled together in artels and pulled barges down the Volga day and day, in rain and snow, in heat and cold. This is well reflected in the picture by I.E. Repin "Barge haulers on the Volga". Even the strongest could not stand this hard labor, and brought many to the grave ahead of time. But others made millions from their slave labor. "The river of slavery and longing" called the Volga N.A. Nekrasov.

"Come out to the Volga, whose groan is heard

Over the great Russian river?

We call this moan a song,

That barge haulers are towing.

In some years in the past, when a lot of snow fell in winter, the water level near Volgograd reached 10-14 m. But it was not always so. More often, there were periods when there was little water, and the Volga became very shallow in summer.

In 1885, a cute picture was depicted on the cover of the Alarm Clock magazine: a beautiful woman lies on her deathbed - this is the Volga. Nearby, her daughters, Oka and Kama, are crying in a kneeling pose. Saddened stand at the bed of the dying - History, Trade, Poetry. The doctor throws up his hands - I can’t help you with anything. The shallowing reached the point that large ships no longer sailed above N.-Novgorod.

The Volga and its cities endured many trials during the years of the civil war and the military intervention of foreign states. Counter-revolutionary rebellion in Samara ("death trains"), military threat (1918) to Samara and Simbirsk, now from Kolchak's army. In the battles for the liberation of these cities, units under the command of V.I. Chapaev. Fierce battles went on for Tsaritsyn, which was the key to the grain regions of southern Russia and Baku oil.

In the first half of 1918, 5,037 wagons of food were sent through Tsaritsyn to Moscow and Petrograd. That is why the White Guards rushed to Tsaritsyn: they sought to deprive the young Soviet Republic of bread and fuel. In the second half of 1919, the city was occupied by the White Guard troops of General Wrangel, where the defenders were brutally massacred. 3.5 thousand people became victims of terror. In January 1920, the Red Army drove the troops out of the city. To fight for the Volga and its cities during the Civil War, at the suggestion of Vladimir Ilyich Lenin, in April 1918, the first Soviet river military flotilla was created. It consisted of river vessels and a group of warships delivered from the Baltic Fleet. The flotilla operated on the Volga and its channels and went down in history as the Volga military flotilla. With the participation of the Volga flotilla, the White Guard units near Sviyazhsk were defeated, Kazan, Syzran, Volsk, Samara were liberated. In July 1919, she became part of the Volga-Caspian military flotilla.

Special mention should be made of those terrible and difficult months when, during the Great Patriotic War (WWII), the fate of our state was decided on the banks of the Volga. We are talking about the Battle of Stalingrad, which marked a turning point in the course of the war, seeing that it was not possible to take Moscow by storm, the Nazi command changed its plans. It decided to send main blow south of the capital, seize Ukraine and the Volga region with their innumerable food and material resources. Particular importance was attached to the early physical destruction of Stalingrad - the largest industrial center on the Volga, which supplied the fronts of World War II with tanks, armored personnel carriers, guns, and ammunition. Then it was planned to advance to Astrakhan and cut the main channel of the Volga there. The plans of the enemy were unraveled. On the near and far approaches to the city, 100 thousand people erected four defensive lines in a short time. Leaving the fortifications, the builders wrote on the walls: “Fighter, be steadfast! Not a step back, remember, behind your back is the Volga, Our Motherland! From the summer of 1942 to February 1943, the heroic saga of the battle for Stalingrad and the Volga lasted. At the beginning of 1942, the Volga military flotilla was re-created from the converted ships of the Volga River Shipping Company, which in the period from 11/19/1942 to 12/16/1942. (during the counter-offensive near Stalingrad) transferred over 27 thousand people and 1300 tons of military cargo to the right bank of the Volga. The Nazis were squeezed into "pincers", and then completely surrounded. On February 2, 1943, the Germans surrendered. This battle lasted 6.5 months. For Germany, the battle on the Volga for Stalingrad was a grave defeat, and for Russia - greatest victory. After the defeat on the Volga, the Nazis were no longer able to recover. There was a great turning point in the war. The victorious offensive of our troops began on all fronts.

After the liberation of Stalingrad, the Volga Flotilla did a great job of clearing mines from the Volga.

On the site of the ruins, the ashes of Stalingrad, people created a new, even more beautiful city and called it Volgograd, in honor of the great Russian river.

3. Great Volga Cascade

The young Soviet state got: a shallow river, the miserable remnants of the fleet, the ruined port facilities. To prevent catastrophic consequences, it was necessary to transform the Volga system. To this end, even before the war, a plan was conceived and developed to turn the Volga into a cascade of dams, reservoirs and the construction of new canals on it. The prophetic words of the poet K.A. Nekrasov:

Other times, other pictures

I foresee the start...

Freed from shackles

The people are relentless

Ripens, densely populates

coastal deserts;

The science of water will deepen

On their smooth plain

Giant ships will run

Innumerable crowd,

And cheerful work will be eternal

Over the eternal river

On the creation of this grandiose plan worked large group scientists and engineers. This plan was given the strategic name "Big Volga". He was complex. This means that during its development, the needs of navigation, irrigation, energy, water supply and much more were taken into account and provided for. According to the project, the Volga was supposed to turn into a wide waterway, connect with the northern and southern seas, become a powerful factory of electrical energy and direct part of its waters for irrigation in arid regions. The Great Volga project began to be implemented from the moment when the construction of the Moscow Canal began.

The canal was built from 1932 to 1937. It was necessary to immediately solve two important problems: to make the capital a large river port and give it plenty of fresh drinking water. Its length is 128 km. Water by five pumping stations rises 40 meters to the Volga-Moscow watershed, and then follows by gravity.

About 200 structures were erected on this "man-made river": 10 dams, 11 locks, dozens of bridges. 8 HPPs have been built. Many buildings are decorated with bas-reliefs, statues, frescoes. When you float along the canal, it seems that you are in a museum of monumental sculpture. Channel traffic never stops.

Ivankovsky waterworks - the main structure of the canal. Near the village of Ivankovo, the Volga was blocked by a dam and forced to spill over the floodplain. The Moscow Sea arose here, and the river began to rotate the turbines of the Ivankovskaya hydroelectric power station. The news that the Russians for the first time in history stopped and forced to work for themselves the greatest river in Europe spread all over the world. The HPP's capacity was modest, only 30,000 kW.

Later, below Ivankov, the construction of the Uglich and Rybinsk hydroelectric facilities began. The Uglich HPP with a capacity of 110 thousand kW was built in 1940, and the first stage of the Rybinsk HPP was built in 1941. The Upper Volga hydroelectric power stations during the difficult war winter (1941-1942) supplied up to 3.5 billion kWh. electricity. The Rybinsk "sea" at that time was the largest artificial reservoir in the world.

The Upper Volga, for 1300 km, became subject to man. The central energy system was filled with new strength, deep-sea Astrakhan river ships reached Moscow.

In the 1950s, the construction of the Rybinsk hydroelectric power station was completed on the Volga. In 1956, the construction of the Gorkovskaya hydroelectric power station (Nizhny Novgorod) was completed.

At the beginning of the Samarskaya Luka above the city of Samara, in 1950, work began on the Volga near the Zhiguli to build the Samara hydroelectric power station. After 8 years, the work was completed, the Volga Hydroelectric Power Station named after V.I. Lenin (Samara) with a capacity of 2.3 million kW. This is a powerful building. The building of the Samara HPP "Palace of Electricity" is longer than the building of the Admiralty in St. Petersburg (it was considered the longest in the USSR).

A river approximately equal to the Oka flows through each turbine, and the Kuibyshev reservoir occupies about 6 thousand km2. In general, a titanic work has been done. It was necessary to bring the railway tracks, hang over the Volga cable cars, break up settlements, drive a steel fence into the bottom of the river, go deep behind it with excavators much lower than the channel, lay a mountain of concrete, wash a shaft of earth across the entire river and launch cars and trains along its crest, raise the Volga by 25-26 meters, arrange locks and to mount units - each with an 8-storey building height, to stretch the wall of the dam 5 km long. Help came from everywhere: automatic concrete plants from Moscow, bucket-wheel electric excavators from Kyiv, dump trucks from Minsk, turbines from Leningrad.

In 1951-62. the Volgograd hydroelectric complex is being built from the Volgograd hydroelectric power station with a capacity of 2.5 million kW. The Volgograd and Kuibyshev reservoirs irrigate over 2,000 hectares of fertile arid lands.

In the same years, the first hydroelectric power station was built on the Kama, not far from the city of Perm - the Kama hydroelectric power station with an original design (combines a spillway dam and a hydroelectric power station building), which results in savings in the cost of concrete structures.

Then the Volzhskaya hydroelectric power station with a capacity of 1 million kW and the Nizhnekamsk hydroelectric power station are being built. Since 1967, the first units of the Saratov hydroelectric power station began to give current. The launch of the Cheboksary HPP has practically completed the construction of the Volga-Kama cascade. The whole complex of structures on the Volga was called the "Great Volga Cascade". The Volga-Kama HPP cascade formed a system of reservoirs (from Kostroma to Volgograd), which makes it possible to redistribute the flow of water according to the seasons in accordance with the requirements of the national economy and irrigate the arid lands of the Middle and Lower Volga region (more than 2 million hectares, which is about half of all irrigated lands of Russia).

The Volga supplies water to thousands of enterprises and dozens of urban settlements located on its banks.

Volzhsky and Kamsky HPPs allow saving up to 25-30 million tons of coal annually. In addition, the hydroelectric power station performs the functions of regulating the load schedule of power systems. The cost of energy from hydroelectric power plants is 4-5 times lower than the cost of electricity from thermal power plants in the regions of the Volga region and the Center.

The creation of a cascade of HPPs improved navigation conditions: a deep-water route was formed with uniform guaranteed depths (3.65 m) over 3,000 km on the Volga and 1,200 km on the Kama, which reduced the cost of transportation in the Volga basin by 2-3 times compared to other inland waterways. ways and 2-3 times in comparison with the adjacent railways.

But there were also negative aspects in the transformation of the Volga. In order to obtain a large amount of electricity, they went to flood land over large areas. Two million hectares of land, thousands of villages and even some cities were under water. After the construction of hydroelectric dams, the fishing value of the Volga decreased due to the deterioration of water quality (industrial effluents) and the difficulty for fish to spawn.

4. Volga - transport highway

In distant geological epochs, it so happened that nature “offended” the Volga, depriving it of access to the ocean, and forcing it to flow into the inland sea.

This circumstance has long caused great inconvenience to the Russian people who communicated with other neighboring peoples. The lively Black Sea market has always attracted Russian merchants.

The need to connect the Volga with the Don is long overdue. The first attempt to connect the great rivers was made by the Turks, who wanted to transfer warships, heavy guns and troops by water along the Don and Volga in order to take away Astrakhan from us, annexed to Russia in 1556.

For this, their Sultan Selim II ordered a tunnel to be made in the place of the drag between the rivers. Ivan the Terrible, having learned about the uninvited guests, sent a large army to the place of work, but they fled even earlier from the inhospitable Russian land. "Turkish ditch" has survived to our time.

Peter I also dealt with the problem of connecting the Volga and the Don. But this idea was really implemented only from 1948 to 1952. The Volga was connected to the Don. Here the Volga-Don canal arose. It starts from the Volga near Volgograd and comes to the Don near Kalach. The length of the route is 101 km. There are 9 locks on the Volga slope, 4 on the Don slope. Tens of millions of tons of all kinds of cargo go through it. So the Volga got access to the southern seas - the Azov and the Black.

But it wasn't enough for her. She badly needed access to the northern seas - convenient and accessible for large modern ships. On the site of the outdated "Marinka" (a waterway connecting the basins of the Volga and Neva rivers in 1810), a new large deep road Volga-Balt - the Volga-Baltic waterway 360 km long was created. Instead of dilapidated small locks, seven new ones with several hydroelectric stations were built here. In 1964, for the first time, large ships and motor ships passed through it from the Volga to the Baltic.

And, finally, the White Sea-Baltic Canal connected the Volga with the White Sea.

Thus, the modern Volga is a waterway connected with the five seas of Europe. Day and night, a variety of goods flow along it in an endless stream - building materials and timber, cars and coal, oil, salt, bread, vegetables and fruits. Two-thirds of the republic's river cargo is transported along the Volga and its tributaries. It has 1450 ports and marinas and all the largest cities of the Volga region. The Volga unites them as a great transport artery. Freight turnover on it is 10 times higher than the railway in this area.

5. Volga - the economic axis of the Volga region

At the turn of the 19th and 20th centuries, the industrialization of the Volga region began. It becomes a major area for the production of marketable grain and the flour-grinding industry. The importance of the Volga is growing. It becomes the "main street of Russia" (grain, oil are transported, timber is rafted). The most powerful sawmills in Russia appear in Tsaritsyn (Volgograd).

The industrialization policy during the years of the pre-war five-year plans (the largest tractor plant in Volgograd) and the first years of the war (in connection with the evacuation of defense enterprises here in 1941-42) made the Volga region from an agrarian - industrial, from a flour-grinding - machine-building with an enhanced development of the military industry.

In the post-war period, especially since 1950, for two decades, the Volga region became the main region of Russia for oil production and its processing of petrochemicals. The main areas of oil and gas production and processing are located in Tataria (Almetievsk, Yelabuga), Samara region (Novokuibyshevsk, Syzran, Otradny). The flow of oil has changed. She has now gone down the Volga. The Volga region has become a land of oil and gas.

At present, the main branches of specialization of the Volga region are mechanical engineering and petrochemistry. Mechanical engineering (18.6% of Russian) is represented mainly by military-industrial complex enterprises, the main branch of specialization of which is the aviation and rocket and space industries. The largest centers of the military-industrial complex are Samara, Kazan, Saratov, Ulyanovsk.

A special place in the mechanical engineering of the Volga region belongs to the transport region of the Volga region - the automobile workshop of the country. It is the largest manufacturer of cars and trucks (Naberezhnye Chelny, Ulyanovsk, Tolyatti, Nizhny Novgorod).

Of the other modes of transport, aircraft manufacturing is developed (Kazan, Nizhny Novgorod, Saratov, Samara, Ulyanovsk), shipbuilding (Rybinsk, Volgograd, Astrakhan) - sea and river vessels, including hovercraft (Sormovo, Nizhny Novgorod).

The Volga region is a major manufacturer of tractors (Volgograd, Cheboksary), car building (Tver), machine tool building, instrument making, excavators and much more are developed.

Although oil production is declining, but oil refining and petrochemistry are switching to Siberian oil, Astrakhan gas, so the Volga region is still the country's largest region for oil refining, chemical products, and organic synthesis.

It produces plastics, chemical fibers, synthetic rubber, tires ("shoes for cars"), mineral fertilizers.

The share of the Volga region in the chemical and petrochemical industry is 15.1% of Russia (Kazan, Balakovo, Engels, Volgograd).

Light industry has retained its importance and is growing. This is textile (Tver, Kineshma, etc.), food (everywhere). Of particular note is the extraction and processing of table salt from Lake Baskunchak, which has long been used as the “All-Russian salt shaker”. The only mustard plant in the country operates in Volgograd. The mining and processing fish industry (Astrakhan) is successfully developing.

There are 67 cities on the banks of the Volga. They all stretched out along or near it. The largest of them are as follows.

Nizhny Novgorod (former Gorky) - the first city on the Volga and the third largest in Russia (1 million 357 thousand inhabitants), was founded in the 13th century by Prince Vladimir Yuri Vsevolodovich and was of great strategic importance at that time. Its location at the confluence of the Oka with the Volga contributed to the development of industry and trade.

In 1817, the Makariev Fair was transferred to Nizhny Novgorod (previously it was held in the town of Makaryevo, on the left bank of the Volga), which occupied a huge area on the spit of the Oka and Volga. Now she is reborn again.

Since the middle of the 19th century, the city has gained industrial importance. The Sormovo Shipbuilding Plant, now Krasnoe Sormovo, was built there, where sea and river hydrofoil ships (Rocket, Meteor, Kometa) are built. Gorky's passenger cars and trucks "Volga" (with the emblem of a deer figure on the hood) and GAZ (famous "gaziki") are known all over the world.

There is a large river port in Nizhny Novgorod. The department of the Volga United River Shipping Company is located here. The history of this city is connected with the life of many prominent people Russia. The Ulyanov family lived here. This is the birthplace of A.M. Gorky, Russian inventor Kulibin, mathematician Lobachevsky and many other prominent figures. The grave of Kuzma Minin is located in the Archangel Cathedral of the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin. The Cathedral of Alexander Nevsky and others are also known.

The second largest population in the Volga region (1 million 156 thousand) is the city of Samara, founded in the 16th century as a fortress in the bend of the Volga near the confluence of the Samara River (which gave the city its name). During the Second World War, dozens of industrial enterprises, which turned the city into one of the largest centers of mechanical engineering (aircraft, various machine tools, drills for wells, electrical equipment for cars and tractors). Samara is a center for the manufacture of bearings of all-Union significance. The metal-working and chemical industries are developed here. Samara is famous for the largest and most comfortable embankment, dressed in concrete and Ural granite. Samara is the birthplace of the famous Zhiguli beer. The city is also known for its chocolate factory "Russia".

The capital of Tatarstan - Kazan (1 million 101 thousand people), was founded in the 12th century as a fortress and shopping center, on the border of the Volga Bulgaria and Russian lands. It is a large industrial center and the main center of Tatar culture in Russia. Here are developed: mechanical engineering and chemical industry. It supplies the national economy with turbo-refrigeration and electronic computers, compressors, synthetic rubber, polyethylene, film, household chemicals, and so on.

Kazan is the most university city. Scientists of Kazan University N.I. Lobachevsky, V.M. Bekhterev, A.V. Vishnevsky brought glory to domestic science. Leo Tolstoy studied at Kazan University. F.I. was born in this city. Chaliapin, passed his "universities" A.M. Bitter. In the former bakery where he worked, a museum was opened to them. Gorky.

There are many memorable places in Kazan connected with the development of the labor movement, with the revolutionary events of 1917, with the liberation of Kazan from the White Guards and interventionists in 1918. Near the walls of the Kazan Kremlin there is a monument to the hero of the Soviet Union, Musa Jalil, who wrote his immortal poems about the fearlessness and steadfastness of the Soviet people (“Moabit Notebook”) in fascist dungeons. For these poems in 1957, the poet was awarded (posthumously) the Lenin Prize.

The Kazan river port is one of the largest on the Volga. Routes of all transit, transport and tourist lines of steamships of the central basins pass through it.

The largest city of the Lower Volga region is Volgograd, known since the end of the 16th century under the name Tsaritsyn (from the river Tsaritsa, which flows into the Volga). The city is stretched along the right bank of the Volga for 80 km from the dam of the Volgograd hydroelectric power station to the locks of the Volga-Don Canal. It arose in the place of the closest approach of the two great rivers of the Russian plain, the Volga and the Don, and developed as a center of trade, transshipment of timber, extraction and processing of the Volga fish resources.

Today's Volgograd is a major industrial center of the Volga region. It has developed metallurgy (Krasny Oktyabr plant), mechanical engineering, including the largest tractor-building plant, chemical oil refining, light industry, food and other industries. Volgograd is a major transport hub.

With Volgograd (Tsaritsyn and Stalingrad), as mentioned above, the history of Russia is connected during the Civil and WWII wars. Volgograd residents honor the memory of the heroes who died during the defense of Tsaritsyn, and during great battle near Stalingrad. On Mamaev Kurgan, a monument was created - the ensemble "To the Heroes of the Battle of Stalingrad".

The second largest city in the Lower Volga region is the city of Saratov (874 thousand inhabitants). It first became a center for the processing of agricultural products, especially grain. Then machine-building, shipbuilding, nail-and-wire plants appeared, later large oil refineries, chemical plants, the largest technical glass plant in Europe (used in the construction of the Kremlin Palace of Congresses in Moscow), a large-panel housing construction plant were built. Mobile power plants, refrigerators, and light and food industry products are produced.

Saratov is a major center of science, culture and education. Saratov is the birthplace of N.G. Chernyshevsky (he has a museum and a monument), writer K.A. Fedin. In the Saratov province were born A.N. Radishchev (marble bust), P.I. Yablochkov, inventor of the electric light bulb. Here, in the industrial technical school, Yu.A. Gagarin. The city has an embankment astronaut. Among the fields in the Saratov region, a high obelisk was built, where, after flying around the globe, the first cosmonaut of the world, Yu.A. Gagarin. This year, April 12 marks the fortieth anniversary of his flight (Cosmonautics Day).

Saratov is home to the oldest university in the Volga region, an art gallery created by the artist Bogolyubov, one of the largest in Russia.

The modern Volga city of Tolyatti is located on the left bank of the Kuibyshev reservoir, the population is 722.6 thousand inhabitants. The largest enterprise in Togliatti is the Volga Automobile Plant (VAZ). The car plant "Zhiguli" produces cars of three names: "Zhiguli", "Niva", "Lada".

It manufactures equipment for the cement, mining, and chemical industries. Nitrogen-fertilizer and synthetic rubber plants were built. Tolyatti is one of the largest elevators, a highly mechanized river port, which is connected with other cities by high-speed lines. Today Tolyatti is the largest industrial center of the Middle Volga region.

Ulyanovsk is a large river port on the Kuibyshev reservoir, with a population of 667.4 thousand people. This ancient city (until 1924 - Simbirsk) was founded as a fortress in 1648. Being in the center of the Middle Volga region, it more than once found itself in a whirlpool of historical events. Here stood and fought the troops of Stepan Razin. Simbirsk peasants joined Pugachev's detachments, and during the Civil War, Simbirsk was captured by the White Guards. Commander of the Iron Division G.D. Guy, after the liberation of Simbirsk, sent Lenin a well-known telegram: "... The capture of your hometown is the answer to your one wound ..." (Simbirsk is Lenin's birthplace).

There are many historical monuments and monuments to outstanding personalities (Lenin, Karamzin, Goncharov, etc.) in the city.

Ulyanovsk is a major center of the automotive industry (UAZ). A whole family of trucks (vans, ambulances) is produced here. Cutting machines, sprinklers, washing machines, shoes, furniture, knitwear are produced. Ulyanovsk port is connected with dozens of ports in other cities. The cargo and passenger flow of this city is very large.

Astrakhan is the southernmost of the Volga cities. In the past - the capital of the Astrakhan Tatar Khanate. In 1717, Peter I made Astrakhan the capital of the Astrakhan province. Its attraction is the five-domed Assumption Cathedral, built in the time of Peter the Great with a white Kremlin built of stone from Saray, the capital city of the Golden Horde, which stood on Akhtuba.

Currently, Astrakhan is an important port and the main fishing center for breeding, harvesting and processing fish. Known fish canning refrigeration plant, where the fish is cut, frozen, salted, smoked, canned, etc.

An important role in the economy of Astrakhan is played by enterprises of mechanical engineering and metalworking. Seiners, tankers are built here, refrigeration equipment, cellulose, cardboard, paper are produced, salt mining and woodworking are developed. In the delta, a canal was dug to enter the Volga from the sea, but not all ships can come close to Astrakhan. At sea, about a hundred kilometers from the coast, their cargo is reloaded onto smaller ships and transported to Astrakhan.

Mechanical engineering is well developed in Naberezhnye Chelny, mainly the automotive industry.

All the leading fundamental industries of the Volga region are located in port cities, which the Volga connects and unites into a single communication. The Volga provides the entire region with water, hydropower, and cheap transport, thus being the economic axis of the Volga region. Its importance for the economy of this area is equivalent to the importance of the spine for the human body.

We are also interested in the Volga as a tourist route for water travel, replete with unique historical monuments. These are world-famous Kremlins in Nizhny Novgorod, Kazan, Astrakhan, memorials in Ulyanovsk and Volgograd, a unique nature reserve in Astrakhan.

6. Problems of the Volga (Volga region). Improving the economic situation on the Volga and its tributaries

The role of the Volga region in the economy of Russia is great, but the burden of this region with the most acute problems is also great. The catchment area of ​​the Volga is huge. It is 1 million 350 thousand km2. It receives effluents from industrial enterprises, including from VLK, city sewerage, wastewater contaminated with pesticides from the vast fields of the Volga region. The Volga is also polluted by water transport (port runoff, oil leakage, etc.). All this causes great damage to the fish industry, especially sturgeon, always former glory Russia. Therefore, it is necessary to improve methods of wastewater treatment using both mechanical and chemical, as well as biochemical methods, to protect water resources from depletion (very high evaporation from twenty thousand square kilometers of the Volga reservoirs) by reducing the consumption of fresh water for technical purposes (reuse of waste water , after its preliminary purification).

Fish hatcheries have been built to restore fish stocks. They release young sturgeon, beluga, stellate sturgeon into the river. The Black Sea mullet was airlifted to the Caspian by planes. (The annelids were transported to feed the fish, especially for sturgeon and beluga).

But not only the water of the Volga and its dwindling fish stocks require improvement, but also the lands of the Volga region, the air basins of the Volga cities, saturated with enterprises of chemistry, oil refining, metallurgy, etc.

For solutions environmental issues In this region, the Federal target program "Revival of the Volga" was developed and adopted. The program is designed for 15 years (1996-2010).

As a result of the implementation of the measures provided for by the program, the discharge of polluted effluents into water bodies will be reduced by 30%; the use of drinking water for industrial needs will be reduced by 40%, the specific consumption of raw materials and energy resources will be reduced by 20%, atmospheric emissions from stationary sources will be reduced by almost 2 times, and there will be 2 times more fish in the Volga reservoirs.

At all times of the existence of Russia, the Volga has been and remains the great Russian river, on which the life of the entire Volga region largely depends.

We are Russians. We are the children of the Volga.

For us the meanings are full

Her slow waves

Heavy as boulders.

Russia's love for her is imperishable.

All souls are drawn to her

Kuban and Dnieper, Neva and Lena,

Both the Angara and the Yenisei.

I love her all in threads of light,

All in the edging of willow ...

But the Volga for Russia is

Much more than a river.

And I live young and loud,

And forever I make noise and bloom,

As long as you, Russia, are.

E. Yevtushenko.

Bibliography

1. Alekseev A.I., Nikolina V.V. Geography: population and economy of Russia. - 1999.

2. Geography of Russia: Textbook. / Ed. A.V. Darnitsky. - 1994.

3. Medvedev A. Shaburov Yu. Moscow - the port of five seas. - 1985.

4. Muranov A. The Greatest Rivers of the World. - 1968.

5. Verkhotin. Electric power system of the USSR.

6. Soviet encyclopedic Dictionary. 3rd edition - 1984.

7. Soviet historical encyclopedia. T.3. - 1963. Fishing bases on the Volga (Astrakhan region)

With its "Rostov mountains" and "the sea coast of Belarus", on I have an even happier generation coming.

According to the results of a 2014 survey, less than 60% of the students of the Faculty of Journalism of Moscow State University were able to confidently say where the Volga flows. Students went through options from the Azov and Black to the North and Baltic Seas, at the Higher School of Economics they suggested that the Volga flows into Baikal, Oka, the Pacific Ocean, and Moscow State University - into the Moscow River, Yenisei, Ob. Some students decided that "the Volga does not flow anywhere."

In total, 151 students of the Faculty of Journalism of Moscow State University, 84 students of the Higher School of Economics and 35 students of MGIMO were interviewed in approximately equal numbers from all courses. Answer options were not offered to students. The candidates were chosen randomly. Not a single student could answer all the questions, 15 people could not answer any question at all. You can test yourself by passing a simple test, created on the basis of questions asked to students.

Modern the common truth "Volga flows into the Caspian Sea" is quite enough to know d for general development. But those who want to understand history should keep in mind that this statement is essentially false and first understand hydrological concepts.

First of all, it would be more correct to talk about the confluence of the river into the Caspian Lake, because the seas are called parts of the World Ocean, and the Caspian Sea is an endorheic lake that has no connection with the World Ocean and is traditionally called the sea because of the salty water and large size.

In other words, the Volga river basin with the Caspian Sea-lake isan inland waterway system completely isolated from the World Ocean. And this circumstance must be taken into account when studying the history of civilization, which spread mainly along the seas and waterways.

For example, there are only three "entry points" to the Volga basin from different seas to understand their historical significance.

1. From Baltic Sea the first route along the rivers Neva - Volkhov - Msta - Tvertsa, that is, the cities of St. Petersburg-Veliky Novgorod - Tver. That is why here, and not somewhere else, the capital was founded Russian Empire- Petersburg.

2. From the Black Sea along the Dnieper through the island of Khortitsa (the base of the Zaporizhzhya Cossacks) and Kyiv in the upper reaches of the Dnieper is the iconic "key-city" Smolensk, then on the tributary of the Dnieper, the hub city of Vyazma, from where it was possible to get to the upper reaches of the Oka and Volga basins.

3. From the Sea of ​​Azov along the Don, then along the tributary of the Tsiml (in the place of this river is now the Tsimlyansk reservoir) and dragged to the Volga near modern Volgograd. To anal Volga-Don approximately corresponds toto the former land portage, and it is not at all accidental that it was there in the settlement of Dubok that the administrative center of the Volga Cossacks was located, and not in the area of ​​​​the mouth of the river, like all the other river Cossacks. Yes, yes, that's right, each Cossack army initially controlled its own river, the Cossacks in general were originally waterfowl and only at the turn of the 18-19 centuries they moved to horses.

Secondly, not the Volga, but the Kama flows into the Caspian Sea-lake. According to one of the main hydrological criteria - full-flowing, at the confluence of the Volga and Kama, the latter is more full-flowing + an additional criterion of a direct channel at the confluence, the Volga should be considered a tributary of the Kama, and not vice versa, and then it is the Kama that flows into the Caspian Sea. Therefore, the ancient authors are not at all mistaken when they write that the Ra (Volga) river flows from the Riphean / Riphean(Ural) mountains.

River basins can be compared to trees standing next to each other, whose crowns close together. Like trees along trunks, all rivers are uniquely identified from the mouth, and further up the river, for transport purposes, the main watercourse must be determined, which is not always obvious.

For example, at the confluence of the Volga with the Oka, the latter was full-flowing and, according to this criterion, could be considered the main watercourse, in which case it would be considered that the Volga flows into the Oka. But in this place, the Volga has a straight channel and, with approximately equal visual assessments of the full flow, it wins the right to be called the main watercourse from the Oka.

In other words, the name of the river used to apply to the watercourse starting from the mouth and upstream, based on the practical purposes of navigation. In the 19th century, this principle was reversed, appointing "one of the branches of the tree crown" as the source of the river - this is simpler, but does not make any practical sense, shipping distances in many places are still counted from the mouths of the rivers.

So the answer topoll "Where does the Volga flow?"most consider it well-known, primitive only because ofmodern view of rivers from top to bottom, from source to mouth andfamiliarity clearcertainty of the main stream.

At present, the Volga is usually divided into three parts: the Upper - from the source to the dam of the Gorkovskaya hydroelectric power station, the Middle - from the dam of the Gorkovskaya hydroelectric power station to the dam of the Kuibyshev hydroelectric power station, and the Lower - from the dam of the Kuibyshevskaya hydroelectric power station to the mouth.

Upper Volga

The Upper Volga basin lies in the forest zone. The climate of this territory is mainly determined by continental air masses of temperate latitudes. However, cyclones from the Atlantic often come to the Upper Volga basin, which bring thaws and snowfalls in winter, and cooling and rains in summer. Within the Valdai Upland, the annual precipitation reaches 800 mm, decreasing downstream to 600 mm. Food is mainly snow, it accounts for 55-65% of the total runoff per year; the share of rains is 10-15%, and groundwater - 35%. The amount of water that the tributaries of the Upper Volga collect from each square kilometer of their basins varies from 10-12 l/s (in the upper reaches) to 6-4 l/s (in the Oka basin).

The river network of the Upper Volga is dense and well developed. From the north, water is carried to it by Selizharovka, Tverda, Medveditsa, Mologa, Sheksna, Kostroma, Nemda and Unzha, these are its right tributaries. Of the left tributaries, the Vazuza and Shosha are the most significant. On average, the density of the river network of the Upper Volga is 0.30-0.35 kilometers per kilometer of the catchment area. In the old days, with platoon (against the current) navigation, the abundance of streams and rivers created additional difficulties. Here is how the conditions for escorting ships along Tvertsa are described in the “Naval Road Worker” of 1854: “... and in other places, through small rivers flowing into Tvertsa, bridges and swampy places, bridges have not been made, and horse guides must go around five miles away or swim. And in other places, the townsfolk themselves arrange bridges and ferries, for the crossing of which across the rivers they take an arbitrary fee from the horsemen.

Beginning of the Volga River

The Volga originates in the northwest of the Tver region, not far from its border with Novgorod. Boardwalks near the village of Volgo-Verkhovye lead through a grassy swamp to a small gazebo house. Look through the opening cut in the floor - at the bottom of the pit, now rising, now falling, the key pulsing out of the bowels of the earth is pulsing. Sedge sways in the swamp, bowing to a bright stream, as if it knows that it is destined to give rise to the largest river in Europe. A brook slowly makes its way through the reeds among the bushes, runs damp spruce forest, fearlessly dives into lakes. In the upper reaches, one after the other, there are several reservoirs - lakes Maly Verkhit, Bolshoy Verkhit, Sterzh, Vselug, Peno and Volgo. The Volga dives in a thin stream into its first lake - Maly Verkhit, and from Lake Peno it flows like a real river. Behind Lake Peno, the river Zhukopa flows into the Volga, its first right tributary. Writing out intricate turns, the Volga flows in steep banks to the last lakes on its way, bearing the same name as it - the Upper and Lower Volga. Following one after another, similar to a river flood, they are 7 km long and only 2 km wide. At the end of the 1st - beginning of the 2nd millennium AD, along the lakes Volgo, Peno, Vselug and Sterzh, a waterway passed from the cities of the Upper Volga basin to Veliky Novgorod and further north, to the Baltic.

There was another way to Veliky Novgorod. Before swimming to the Upper Volga Lakes, it was necessary to turn into the Selizharovka River and climb along it to Lake Seliger. From there he was dragged to the Polu River. By the way, until the middle of the 19th century, local residents sailed in boats from Lake Seliger not only to Novgorod, but also to St. Petersburg.

It was also possible to get to Novgorod from the Volga by ascending its left tributary, the Tvertsa. From Tverda he was dragged to Meta. This third road, as you already know, was chosen by Peter I for the construction of the first artificial waterway in Russia.

5 km below Lake Volgo, almost a hundred and fifty years ago, in 1843, a beishlot (water-retaining dam) was built. In the spring, when spring waters accumulate in front of it, the backwater spreads upstream the river up to Lake Sterzh and in the place of the Upper Volga Lakes a single large reservoir almost 100 km long appears. The Upper Volga Beishlot was built to improve the conditions for navigation along the Upper Volga in low water. Thanks to water releases, it was possible to raise the river horizon near Tver by 27 cm, near the mouth of the Shoshi River - by 22 cm, near the city of Kalyazin - by 16 cm, and near Rybinsk - by 7 cm. The water accumulated during the spring in the Upper Volga reservoir was usually consumed within two months. At the same time, the work of the Upper Volga Beyshlot was linked with the work of the Vyshnevolotsk hydroelectric complex in such a way that water releases from the reservoirs controlled by them came alternately. At the same time, water from the Upper Volga and Vyshnevolotsk reservoirs was rarely supplied to the Volga - only in emergency situations. Then the water level in the river rose by 13 cm near Rybinsk.

Passenger navigation on the Volga

And today, passenger navigation along the Volga from Tver to Rzhev, for more than 180 km, is carried out thanks to water releases from the Upper Volga Beishlot. Usually, in dry years, water reserves behind the dam are enough until mid-August. The average long-term annual water flow through the Upper Volga Beishlot after its reconstruction in 1943-1947 is 29.7 m3/s, the minimum is 14.2, and the maximum is 54.1 m3/s. The hydrological regime of the Volga is now affected by water releases from the Upper Volga Reservoir only up to the mouth of the Tma River, which flows into the Volga near Tver, downstream the backwater of the Ivankovo ​​Reservoir is felt.

The section from the Upper Volga Beishlot to Tver is rarely mentioned. Maybe because it lies away from the main waterways, or maybe because the Volga here is completely different from the one we know from the canvases of Levitan, Repin and other Russian artists. Here it is narrow, rapids; steep banks overgrown with forests, stones and a strong current that strives to knock you down at the fords make it look like a river in the foothills. Between Selizharovka and Itomlya, for 73 km, there are 12 rapids on the Volga. Water bubbles among the stones, tight jets collide, collide with each other, forming breakers, whirlpools and swirls. The largest rapids, Vienna, are located near the village of Eltsy. Once they were the heaviest for piloting ships. The fall of the river here for one kilometer reaches 3 meters. In this section, the Volga is a chain of foamy, noisy waterfalls.

Some of the rapids in the channel arose from clusters of boulders washed out by water, and some were formed at the places where limestones came to the surface. The rapids of the village of Koshevo, for example, are rocky, the rapids of Dyagel and the rapids are gravel, and the rapids of Mnroslavl and Spas arose at the outcrops of a smooth limestone slab. In former times, when lifting ships, each barge was supposed to have 9-12 horses with 2-3 grooms, and when rafting, 8-16 rowers at oars and a pilot was required.

Like a gorge, the Volga water rushes through the Staritsky Gates - a deep, narrow valley near the town of Staritsa. In some places, at the foot of the banks, similar to stonework destroyed by time, rather powerful spring springs break out.

Only after the village of Brody, when the Volga enters the Upper Volga lowland, does its valley expand to 200 m, and the banks go down. There are fewer rapids on the river after it leaves the Valdai Upland, but shallows appear. The most impassable were considered the Otmechenskaya shoal near the mouth of the Tma River and upstream, next to the gravel rift Bereza, - the Voevodinskaya shoal. At present, the channel of the Volga from Tver upstream has been deepened and cleared of shoals by about 30 km. Higher up the river, the depths necessary for navigation are supported very successfully by semi-dams, which are built from rocks raised from the bottom of the river during cleaning of the fairway. The soils here are heavy, and the channel is stable.

In the 19th century, navigation in the Upper Volga basin lasted approximately 190 days. The first ships set off when there were still blocks of ice on the shore and on the islands, although the willows were already rinsing their fluffy earrings in the fast water and the yellow lights of the coltsfoot were flashing along the slopes of the ditches. The last caravans passed at the end of October, when the first frosts whitened the fallen leaves and grass in the mornings, and at times a rare snow began to fall from the low sky. The Upper Volga rose in early November, and the spring ice drift on it within the Tver province (Kalinin region), according to observations for 1837-1853, began on April 10. After the creation of the Moscow Sea, both the freezing and opening of the Volga moved to a later date. And now the spring ice drift on it will probably begin even later. After all, since 1977, the Vazuza runoff has been transferred to the system of Moscow reservoirs.

In the "Navigation Road Worker" of 1854, it is indicated that the level of spring waters in the rivers of the Tver province exceeded the low water by 8.5 m, and in other years - by 13 m. , 1838, 1849, 1855, 1867, 1908, 1926 and 1947. “On the city part along the river bank in the stone quarters, lower housing, as well as most of the bourgeois houses and the Yamskaya settlement, Zatmatskaya and Zatveretskaya parts, almost everything, except for the houses standing on the highest places, were understood by it,” describes the floods in Tver in 1770 and 1777 "Geographical Monthly Book" for 1780. In the flood of 1838, more than 760 houses were flooded in Tver, and the low-lying parts of the city were under a layer of water of 3.2 meters! Nowadays, in spring, the water in the Volga near Tver usually rises by 6-7 meters, but it can also be higher: in the flood of 1947, its rise reached 11 m.

Near the city of Zubtsov, the highest water rise in the Volga recorded since 1892 was observed on April 23, 1908 - it exceeded the low water level by 12 m, and near the city of Staritsa, downstream of the river, by 11 m. At the same time, the highest level of water rise coincided with its highest discharge reaching 4060 m3/s near Staritsa. The lowest water consumption in the Volga near this city was noted on January 12-13, 1940, it was equal to only 11.2 m3 / s. Near Tver, the lowest water consumption was noted in 1941, it was 14 m3 / s, which is 15 times less than the average annual value. Very low water levels in the upper reaches of the Volga were observed on August 23-24, 1939. Previously, in dry years, it was possible to ford the Volga near Tver in the low water. It is difficult to believe in this when you stand today on the embankment of the river in Tver. After the creation of the Ivankovskoye reservoir, the width of the Volga there reaches 250 meters, and large three-deck motor ships moored at the pier of the River Station.

The water flow in the upper reaches, depending on the season and the water content of the year, can vary 365 times! Remember the water flow near the town of Staritsa - 4060 m3/s and 11.2 m3/s. However, after the dam blocked the path of Vazuse near the town of Zubtsov, seasonal fluctuations in water flow downstream somewhat smoothed out. Indeed, in the spring, Vazuza carried the main part of the flow (about 80%) to the Volga. And when a reservoir appears under the city of Rzhev, the flow of the river will be regulated almost completely. The Rzhev hydroelectric complex will protect the villages and agricultural lands located downstream from spring floods, and in the future, it may also be used to replenish the Volga water of the Dnieper.

Nearly 100 years separate the construction of the first Upper Volga reservoir and the second, Ivankovsky, which is often called the Moscow Sea. In 1937, near the village of Ivankov, the channel was blocked by a dam, and the floodplain was blocked by a dam. The total length of the barrier was about 9 km. As a result of the water spill, a vast reservoir of 327 km2 was formed, with many islands, bays and bays of the most intricate outlines. Do not look on the map for the village of Ivankov, in its place is now green, somewhat subtly reminiscent of the southern city of Dubna.

From the Ivankovskoye reservoir, the Moscow Canal begins, connecting the Volga with the capital. The lock was assigned number one, and the pier, although small, was named the Big Volga.

At the top, the Moscow Sea looks like a full-flowing river, with pine forests along the banks, islands, sandy beaches. There are also a lot of forests below, but the coast is swampy for a long distance. In some places, a quagmire crawls from the shore onto the immovable, as if in a slumber, immersed water. Approximately half of the water area of ​​the reservoir is shallow - no more than 2 m deep - and heavily overgrown. About 40% of the area of ​​the water surface of the Shoshinsky Bay is already covered with water lilies, telorez, watch, cinquefoil and other aquatic plants.

All tributaries of the Volga, which flow into it below the River Darkness, are backwater from the Moscow Sea. Along Tvertsa, for example, backwater extends for 31 km, and the lower reaches of the Shosha have completely turned into a bay - the Shoshinsky reach. Rivers bring the Moscow Sea 98.1% total water entering it, and precipitation - 1.9%. At the same time, the Volga accounts for 57% of the surface inflow, the Shosha - 18%, and the Tverda - 25% (however, it also includes 8% of the flow coming from the Vyshnevolotsk reservoir, which belongs to the Volkhov basin).

The amplitude of water level fluctuations in the Ivankovsky reservoir is significant - up to 6 m. Its hydrological regime is determined not only by the operation of the hydroelectric power station, but also by the needs of Moscow's water supply. As a rule, 25% of the total volume of water releases from the Ivankovo ​​reservoir is sent to the Moscow Canal, and 75% goes further down the huge water ladder that descends from Tver to Volgograd.

The second step of this ladder is the Uglich reservoir. It stretched from the dam of the Ivankovsky reservoir to the dam of the Uglich hydroelectric power station. In terms of area, the Uglichskoye reservoir is smaller than the Ivankovskoye, but deeper, and as a result, the useful volume of water in them is the same. The Volga valley here is not wide - from 0.5 to 1.0 km, and its banks limited the flood of the river during the construction of the dam near Uglich. Dark forests, sandbanks and a leisurely current make the Uglich reservoir quite picturesque. At this time of the year, in the section from the lock to the city of Kimry, the speed of the current sometimes reaches 7 km / h. Only when you swim past the mouths of the Medveditsa and the Nerl, which have turned into bays, and the banks part to a width of up to 3 km or more, and even when you see the half-flooded bell tower near Kalyazin, you understand that this is still a reservoir. The city moved to higher places, and left the bell tower in its old place, and now it rises from the water like a lighthouse. How narrow was the great river near Kalyazin, if even now the distance between the banks here is no more than 200 meters, and the bell tower looms almost in the middle!

Prior to the regulation of the Volga by the Ivankovsky and Uglich reservoirs, in dry years, small steamboats ran from Uglich to Tver for only 10-12 days, and even then only in the first half of the summer. The river in this area abounded with shoals, boulder rapids and whirlpools. What has not been done to improve the conditions of navigation! The shores bristled with numerous dams, impenetrable walls and semi-dams. For their device, both old, outdated barges and matting coolies stretched on stakes were used, but most often wooden shields and fascinated fences were used. The Medveditskaya shoal near the mouth of the Medveditsa River, Sukharinskaya near the village of Sukharino and many others, which caused so much trouble for the rivermen, disappeared forever in the depths of the reservoir. And it seems that the Volga has always been wide and deep here.

Rybinsk reservoir

Behind Uglichskoye is the Rybinsk Reservoir. Filling it with water began in the spring of 1941, but the Rybinsk Sea acquired its final shape only in 1947. In terms of area, it is 14 times larger than the Moscow Sea. Its central part, similar to a lake, is called the Main Reach. Far to the north-west stretch from it along the flooded valleys of the rivers Sheksninsky and Modogsky reaches, and to the south, to the Uglich dam, the Volzhsky reach goes. From the Uglich dam to the Sheksna hydroelectric complex - 250 km. The greatest width of the Rybinsk reservoir is 56 km, and the greatest depth - where the Ukhra River once flowed into the Sheksna - exceeds 30 m. The share of precipitation in the annual supply of this huge reservoir is about 10%. Meanwhile, in run-of-river reservoirs, the share of precipitation in the annual balance of nutrition usually does not exceed 2%.

Once, a very long time ago, about 17 thousand years ago, on the site of the Rybinsk Sea there was a cold glacial lake. Gradually, over many hundreds of years, the rivers lowered it, and the vast Mologo-Sheksninskaya lowland arose. Now the waves are crashing over her again. The shores of the Rybinsk Reservoir are mostly low, damp meadows, forests, swamps stretch along its coast, in some places there are placers of boulders washed out by water, and stumps similar to octopuses exposed by erosion come across in shallow waters.

The ship fairway along the Main Reach goes far from the coast. It ripples with silvery scales, the water sparkles under the sun, reflecting the dim northern sky. An hour passes and another, the earth is not visible. Even the seagulls have fallen behind, you can't hear more than their burry cries. It seems that the diesels will turn off - and you will become deaf from the silence that surrounds you, and around, as far as the eye can grasp, the silvery radiance of the water and the sky overturned above it still shimmers, sparkles. True, the Rybinsk Sea is rarely so deserted - after all, a shipping route passes through it. It is not often that it is so serenely calm. Storms on the Main Reach are sometimes violent, the height of steep asymmetric waves, according to some sources, reaches 2 m, according to others - even 3 m! And then suddenly the reservoir will be wrapped in fog, as if covered with a cloud. From the stern of the boat, her nose, sometimes, is not visible, and then the ships stand, waiting, until more than once - the fog is visible and the fog disperses.

With the advent of the Rybinsk Sea, the climate in the areas adjacent to it has changed somewhat. The summer became cooler, and the amount of precipitation during the growing season increased from 250 to 300 mm.

More than 60 rivers carry water to the Rybinsk reservoir. The share of surface inflow in its supply is 91.5%, and precipitation 8.5%. The average annual amplitude of water level changes in the Rybinsk reservoir reaches 3.5 - 4 m. Its level regime reflects not only the operation of the hydroelectric power station, but also wind denivelations (i.e., surge fluctuations of the water surface). With a stable direction of winds, the skew of the water surface of the reservoir reaches 1 m or more.

The ice regime of the Rybinsk Sea is severe. Its main reach is cleared of ice only three weeks after the end of ice drift on the Volga. In order not to delay the start of navigation, the ice on the reservoir has to be broken by icebreakers. By the way, even before the regulation, the Upper Volga was usually opened not everywhere at the same time. In the section from Rybinsk to Gorky, the ice cover on it always stayed 10 days longer than upstream and downstream. And the floods of water began there on the river even before the passage of ice.

Three waterways diverged in the 18th-19th centuries from Rybinsk - along the Sheksna (Mariinsky water system), along the Mologa (Tikhvin water system) and up the Volga (Vyshnevolotsk water system). The city served as an important transshipment base; above it, only small boats sailed along the rivers of the Volga basin. In the midst, or, as they used to say, in the collapse, of shipping near Rybinsk, so many ships used to accumulate that it was possible to cross them, like a bridge, from one bank of the Volga to the other. And the width of the river near the burlak capital was considerable - almost 500 m. Rybinsk was the largest port city of the Upper Volga, tens of thousands of barge haulers and loaders gathered there for navigation. Only grain cargoes passed through it up to 100 million poods, and this is quite a lot by modern standards. In 1840, 1078 ships departed from Rybinsk along the Sheksna, 1491 ships along the Mologa, and 3298 ships up the Volga. On the way from Rybinsk to Tver, they had to overcome 31 miles of shallows. Meanwhile, in other years, the depths above the Koprinsky shallows near the mouth of the Mologa during the low water did not exceed 28-44 cm. Literally on their belly crawled their barges. It is hard to even imagine now that it was so. Today, large-capacity river-sea vessels and three-deck passenger motor ships transit Rybinsk, calmly gliding along the water surface of the man-made seas. High floods no longer threaten the Volga cities with floods, but before the regulation of the Volga, the water level in it near Yaroslavl used to rise 10 meters above the low water, near Kostroma - by 11 m!

Among the man-made seas of the Upper Volga, Rybinsk is the largest. The area of ​​the Gorky reservoir lying below it is three times smaller, although its length is considerable - 430 km. The filling of the Gorky reservoir with water began when the Rybinsk Sea was already eight years old. Fleeing from the rising water, the ancient Puchezh moved to the mountain, climbed higher, having previously strengthened their banks, Plyos, Yuryevets and other cities. By April 20, 1957, the level of the river had risen by 12 m near the dam. The sandy spits, wide meadow floodplains and Volga rivers, secondary Volga branches, disappeared in the depths of the waters of the island. Simultaneously with the Gorky reservoir, to replenish its water reserves on the Kostroma River, the Kostroma, a subsidiary reservoir, was created. As a result, Kostroma now flows into the Volga not near the city of Kostroma, but 14 km upstream - near the village of Samet. In its lower reaches, up to the dam blocking the river near the village of Kunikova, a bay arose. The Ipatiev Monastery, which stood on the right bank of Kostroma, turned out to be on an island, albeit a very large one. A number of monuments of ancient architecture, including a charming wooden church of the early 18th century, were transferred to his courtyard from the flood zone in the Kostroma lowland. Although the area of ​​the Kostroma reservoir is 26 times smaller than the Gorky reservoir, it is by no means small - the Moscow Sea is only 2 times larger.

Gorky reservoir

The Gorky Reservoir stretches along the Volga valley, either narrowing to almost 200 m, or spreading for many kilometers in breadth, from Rybinsk to the ancient Russian city of Gorodets, in which Alexander Nevsky died. Where the Volga crosses the Uglichsko-Danilovskaya and Galichsko-Chukhloma uplands, its deep and narrow valley limits the flood, and the reservoir in the section from Rybinsk to Kineshma is like a leisurely full-flowing river with white sandbanks, high forested banks, from which wonderful views open to the meadows and beyond the rivers. But then the Volga enters the Unzhenskaya lowland, and its valley expands. From the city of Yurievna, the opposite bank of the reservoir is only guessed - it is 16 km away. Vast bays formed in the lower reaches of the Unzha and Nemda. True, in the old days in the spring there also appeared wide, sometimes up to 30 km, spills.

Almost along the entire length, the right bank of the Gorky reservoir is high and steep, and the left bank is low, meadow. Only within the Yaroslavl-Kostroma lowland from the ship on both sides are the surrounding green hills, villages and copses hidden in other places behind the high bank clearly visible. Blocking the view, the red wall of the coastal cliff sometimes stretches for many kilometers. Its top, as if it were really a wall, is absolutely even, as if someone had cut off every single hillock and tubercle with a knife. Along the edge of the cliff, as if on a parade, trees lined up, in some places the grass just turns green. It seems that further from the coast, to the very horizon, the surface of the earth is even and flat, like a table. In some places - near Yuryevets, Chkalovsk - the steep banks of the reservoir are open to the wave surf. In storms with force, one after another, muddy shafts fall on them. Like a battering ram, a wave hits the shore and, rolling back, takes away pieces of rock with it. In the coastal zone, the turbidity of water in bad weather reaches 10,000 mg/l. In the Yellow River, which is called the most muddy river in the world, 1 liter of water contains 6000 mg of suspended sediment. Usually, the turbidity of water in the rivers of the Volga basin does not exceed 100 mg/l, even during floods. Also in late XIX century, scientists have noticed that shoals arise not only from river sediments. The wind also contributes to their formation. He not only spreads the waves that destroy the banks, but simply blows sand from them into the river. The Urakovskiy roll, for example, always became very shallow after storms. According to the estimates of the railway engineer V. A. Nefedyev, a storm once brought about 400 thousand cubic meters of sand to the Shaluginsky rift. And this is not surprising: after all, the banks of the Volga and the rivers of its basin have been bare of forest since the 16th century, it was cut down by shipbuilders, timber merchants and just peaceful farmers. In 1785, the expedition of Lieutenant Commander of the Russian fleet Joseph Billing, heading to Siberia, passed through the Kazan province among dense oak forests, and returning 30 years later on the same road back, they did not find not only individual trees, but even bushes - everything was bare …

In 1829, to assist in escorting ships through the rapids on the Volga, a special Hardcoat semi-battalion was created with 18 rowboats. Near the city of Kostroma, the fairway was so narrow that oncoming ships diverged with difficulty, and in dry years they often had to be pulled aground by the “people”. In the summer, both near Kostroma and Yaroslavl, the Volga could be forded. In order to guide ships through the Kharchevinsky shoal, which was 21 km upstream from Kostroma, it was necessary to build a temporary dam from bast sacks stretched over stakes during low water. A serious hindrance to navigation was the Varvarinekaya strand between two islands, about 6 km downstream of Yuryevets, and the Kostinsky roll - 28 km below it, and the Shirmokshanskaya stranded near Puchezh, and the Perelomkskaya stranded ...

The annual amplitude of water level fluctuations in the Gorky reservoir usually does not exceed 2-3 m. In the upper part, its hydrological regime depends on the operating mode of the Rybinsk hydroelectric power station, in the lower part it depends on the Gorky hydroelectric power station, and in the central part, the water regime set by hydroelectric power plants is also superimposed the influence of tributaries. In the area of ​​the mouth of the Elnat River, for example, at a depth of 4 m, direct currents make up 64%, and reverse currents - 36%. During the spring flood period, little water usually comes from the Rybinsk Sea, so the filling of the Gorky reservoir is determined mainly by its flow from tributaries, the total area of ​​which is 79,000 km2. During the two spring months, April and May, 16% of the total annual runoff flows near Yaroslavl, and before the regulation of the Volga, 50% of the annual runoff passed here in the same period. On the other hand, the average monthly runoff during the winter period increased by about three times. According to M. S. Pakhomov, after the regulation of the Upper Volga, its runoff increased by 20-30% during low-water years in high-water years, and by 90% in low-water years.

From the dam of the Gorkovskaya hydroelectric power station to Gorky is a little more than fifty kilometers. In the 16th century, this city, then called Nizhny Novgorod, was "the easternmost limit of Russia." For many years it served as the water gates of Moscow, covering the way up the Oka upstream. After the confluence with the Oka, the amount of water in the Volga increases sharply, and the valley expands greatly. From the high bank from the Nizhny Novgorod Kremlin to the distance beyond the river, such a view opens up that it takes your breath away. As if on a model, there are meadows, villages, oxbow lakes, groves in front of you, and behind them in a light foggy haze - again meadows, again villages, and oxbow lakes, and groves ... you can’t take a look at everything at once, you can’t cover ...

“There are few such areas,” wrote V.V. Dokuchaev, “which were separated by a water belt 300-500 sazhens wide and so sharply differed from each other.” At Gorky, where the Kasimovskaya ridge passes, the right bank of the Volga rises by 80-90 m, in the Ulyanovsk region its height reaches 200 m, and in the Sengiley region - 300 m. on the slope people and galloping horses. In places, yellow-brown cliffs, colored with white horizontal stripes, are absolutely sheer, in places paths wind along steep slopes and landslides are visible. Through numerous gullies and ravines cutting through the coast, as if through an open gate, the right bank distances open from the water. The soft line of hills running towards the horizon looks like frozen waves. And along the left, low bank - white sands shoals, flood meadows and expanse, vast expanse ...

After confluence with the Oka, the Volga continues to flow in a latitudinal direction approximately to Kazan, and then turns south along the eastern slope of the Volga Upland, and the climate begins to noticeably change. Summer is getting hotter and drier, and spring and autumn are getting shorter. The annual amount of precipitation, decreasing in the direction from the northwest to the southeast, is usually 700-500 mm. At the same time, the difference in precipitation between the opposite banks of the Volga reaches 100 mm: on the right, upland, they fall more than beyond the river.

The river network of the Middle Volga is well developed, among its right tributaries it would be enough to name one Oka, among the left - only Kama, and there would already be plenty; but Sura, Sviyaga, Kerzhenets, Vetluga, Bolshaya Kokshaga and Bolshoi Cheremshan also carry their waters into it. Unlike the tributaries of the Upper Volga, most of which originate from watershed swamps, the rivers of the Middle Volga begin from springs at the bottom of ravines and gullies.

The Middle Volga is not fully regulated yet. The section from Gorodets to Cheboksary has so far remained riverine, but soon the waters of the Cheboksary reservoir will come there. Its filling began in the summer of 1980. In the meantime, vessels of the "river - sea" type pass Kocherginsky ogrudki, Gorodetsky and other rifts between Gorky and Gorodets with water releases from the Gorky reservoir, which are provided for these purposes at a certain time. The hydrological regime here is complex. In the spring, during high water, when little water comes from the Gorky Reservoir, the backwater from the Oka extends upstream the Volga up to Gorodets. But the flood subsides, and the water level in the Volga, determined by the backwater from the Oka, also falls. The dam of the Cheboksary reservoir will raise the horizon of the Volga near the city of Gorky by 5 m. This will be quite enough not only for all the rifts that interfere with navigation, but also for numerous islands to disappear into the depths of the waters. The backwater from the Cheboksary reservoir will spread tens of kilometers up the Bolshaya Kokshaga, along the Sura, Vetluga, Kerzhents and Oka, forming bays. Now the confluence of the Oka with the Volga in the city of Gorky is clearly visible. At the Oka, the water is yellowish-brown, similar in color to coffee with milk, and at the Volga - with a gray, steel tint. Chips and small debris floating on the water along the border between two rivers strictly adhere to this border, emphasizing it even more. If you go up to the observation deck to the Kremlin, then with binoculars you can distinguish small gray-blue and brown waves going perpendicular to each other.

Having spilled over an area of ​​2270 km2, the Cheboksary reservoir will not only improve navigation conditions on the Middle Volga, but also decorate a number of cities and villages in the Middle Volga. In Cheboksary, for example, on the site of two deep ravines dividing the city, blue bays will appear and the remote dusty city outskirts will turn into a green zone.

In spite of a large number of water that the Oka brings, and downstream of it, navigation along the Volga did not become noticeably easier and safer. In the "Navigation Road Worker" in the section between the Oka and Kama, 11 versts of shallows are indicated. The most tricky of the rifts were considered there Sobshchensky and Telyatinsky, which was sometimes called the Veal Ford. In low-water years, during low-water periods, ships often had to pause before these rifts - to reload goods into small, shallower pauses in the water. You can get some idea of ​​how difficult the Volga fairway was by reading the notes of Adam Olearius, secretary of the Schleswig-Golyntinsky embassy. The ship on which he sailed, overcame the Calf Ford for nine hours, and in fact it probably had a pilot.

The Dutch sailing master Jan Streis also complains in his notes that it is difficult to move along the Volga because of the many shoals. Taking off from them, his ship lost several anchors. Particularly painful for Streis was a shallow area in the area where the Kokshaga River flows into it, where he had to break through supposedly 11 miles of shallows.

The Volga, like any river, carries not only water, but also sediment. At low flow rates, sediments are usually deposited on the bottom of rivers in the form of transverse ridges. On large rivers, their height can reach 10 m, and their length can be several kilometers. If, going down any river, you measure the depths on a boat, you can find an alternation of holes and uplifts. What is surprising is not the presence of ridges in the riverbeds in itself, but their movement downstream. The Soviet hydrologist I. V. Popov in his book “Mysteries of the Riverbed” tells how a sandy ridge sliding along the Volga covered the pipe of the dissipating wastewater outlet of the Volzhsky car factory. The thickness of the sand deposits turned out to be 4 m, and the pipeline laid in the same area along the bottom hung at a height of several meters.

Before the regulation of the Volga, sand along its bed moved from 2 to 16 km per year, constantly making changes to the sailing directions. Some shallows disappeared, and easily overcome rifts suddenly seemed to grow when they were covered with a sandy ridge. Rivers are very mobile systems. They quickly respond to the slightest changes in their basin of precipitation, temperature, and the nature of vegetation, not only by changes in water levels and current velocities, but also by the amount of sediment, and by modifying the channel profile. Channel processes usually develop most intensively in spring, when the water flow acquires the greatest speed and strength. During floods, new shallows are washed in the riverbeds, old channels are covered with sand, new ones are washed away, while their channels sometimes move along the bottom of the valleys at a speed of up to 10 m per day.

In the middle of the 19th century, the main stream of the Volga near Samara in five years completely moved from one side of the sandy shoals that lay in the middle of the river to its other side. Vasilsursk was built on the Sura River, but the Volga, washing away the right bank, constantly pressed the river flowing into it, until it finally occupied its mouth. So Vasilsursk found himself on the Volga. Yuryevets was built on the banks of the Volga, but by the middle of the 19th century, the river had moved away from it for a considerable distance. By the beginning of the 20th century, the ruins of the ancient capital of the Volga Bulgarians were 10 km from the Volga, and Kazan, which once also stood on the banks of the Volga, was 5 km away.

There are many examples of channel movement. In 1587, she washed away the shore near the walls of the Pechersky Monastery near Nizhny Novgorod so much that a landslide occurred and the church was destroyed. More than once the river approached the Makaryevsky Monastery, which stood near the mouth of the Kerzhenets River. In the spring flood of 1839, the Volga bed moved so close to its walls that the monks immediately began to strengthen the bank. After 10 years, the Volga again went on the offensive, tearing a pool 30 meters deep near the southeastern tower of the monastery wall. This was its last onslaught on the holy monastery, after which the river began to move away from the monastery.

Rarely, when the spring ice drift on the Middle Volga did not bring trouble. Huge blocks of ice stripped and crushed the shores, climbed into the backwaters, breaking the ships wintering there. In 1879, the river destroyed and washed away the bank near the Simbirsk pier in Nizhny Novgorod. Unable to withstand its pressure, many Volga tributaries in the spring for 10-20 km flowed, it happened, back. In the high-water years, the riot of the Volga knew no bounds. Huge waves tossed large ships like chips, every minute threatening to smash them against the rocks of the high shore. Diving in muddy waves, uprooted trees, houses, fences, barrels, boards rushed along the surging river. There were severe floods in the Middle Volga in 1709, 1829, 1856, 1888 and 1926. In April 1829, the Volga near Nizhny Novgorod was still under ice, when the water began to rise quickly and rose by 12 m!

Fluctuations in the water content of the Middle Volga before its regulation were very large. On May 9, 1926, the flow near Nizhny Novgorod, for example, reached 38,000 m3/s, and in March 1940 it was only 432 m3/s in the same alignment (the average annual water flow for the period from 1911 to 1950 was 7647 m3/s). with). High waters were especially powerful, majestic in their unrestrained elemental force in the area of ​​the Kama mouth, where the waves of the largest of the Volga reservoirs, the Kuibyshev reservoir, are now splashing. In the Kuibyshev reservoir, everything is huge - both the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe water mirror, equal to 6500 km2 and consisting of eight reaches, and the depth, reaching 45 m in the near-dam part. In the narrowest places, its width is 3-5 km, and opposite the Kama mouth it reaches 38 km! Three-deck passenger ships seem quite small in the vastness of the Kuibyshev Sea.

The left bank of the reservoir is low for almost the entire length of the meadow, and the right bank is high, steep and in some places so heavily indented by ravines that from a distance it seems to be composed of separate pieces of rock. From the water, they can be mistaken for huge gloomy windowless houses lined up along the river. Downstream, the rectangular shape of the “houses” is replaced by a tented one, and huge dark yurts appear along the water's edge… Gradually, the right bank, softly outlined by landslides, becomes lower.

But here at the bay, at the site of the former mouth of the Usa River, Karaulnaya Gora appears - a large hill from which you can see for almost a hundred kilometers around. Once upon a time, Cossacks were on guard duty there. Seeing the Tatars or Nogais, they kindled a fire on the top of the mountain. Further downstream, Molodetsky mound stands and nearby, as if leaning on it, a small round hill - Devya Gora, behind them more hills turn blue. Forest, rocks… Zhiguli start from here. Bypassing them from the east, the Volga describes a steep 150-kilometer loop, which is called the Samara Bend after the city of Samara (Kuibyshev) located at its top. Between the ends of its distance is only 25 km. Before the regulation of the Volga, a circular water route passed along the Samarskaya Luka, the remarkable thing of which was that it was possible to go with the flow all the time. From Kuibyshev the boats went down to the southern end of the Samarskaya Luka, from where there was a two-kilometer drag into the Usa River. Boats quickly rushed along the Mustache downstream. Trees leaned over the water, the water rustled on the riffles, the blue expanse of the northern end of the Samarskaya Luka suddenly opened up. And again down the Volga - already in Kuibyshev. The length of the Zhiguli "circumnavigation" was 170 km.

Dam and reservoir of the Volga hydroelectric power station

The dam of the Volga HPP named after Lenin raised the water level in the Volga by 26 m, and the waters of the Kuibyshev reservoir spread widely across the river floodplain, flooding numerous oxbow lakes, lakes, Volozhka, islands and shallows. About 300 villages and towns have changed their location with the advent of the Kuibyshev reservoir. For example, the city of Sviyazhsk turned out to be on the island, which used to stand on the Sviyaga River, a tributary of the Volga. And Stavropol, located in a lowland on the left bank of the Volga, found itself at the bottom of the reservoir. Two and a half thousand of his houses had to be moved to a new location. Near Ulyanovsk, the water level in the Volga rose by 22 m, the entire left-bank part of the city would have been flooded, but dams blocked the way for the water. More than 10 million m3 of soil had to be moved to protect Kazan from reservoir spills; nine dams, two dams, several pumping stations and a network of drainage channels. But the waters of the Kuibyshev reservoir nevertheless penetrated quite far to the meadow shore. The monument to Russian soldiers who fell during the storming of Kazan in the 16th century, which stood there, is now on the island.

In the lower reaches of the rivers flowing into the Kuibyshev reservoir, as a result of backwater, deep and extensive bays stretching for tens of kilometers arose. The cities and villages that had previously stood far from the Volga now found themselves on its banks. So, for example, Dimitrovgrad, which stood on the Big Cheremshan, became a major port on the Volga.

100 rivers carry water to the Kuibyshev Sea. On the left bank, the Kama, Bolshoy Cheremshan, Sok, Bolshoy Kinel flow into it, on the right - Sviyaga, Mustache. The surface inflow occupies 98.7% in the water supply of the reservoir, and only 1.3% falls on the share of precipitation falling on its mirror.

The Kuibyshev Sea is the most stormy of all the Volga reservoirs. In autumn storms, the wind strength on it often reaches 9-11 points, and the wave height exceeds 3 m. Having received a warning about an impending storm, ships rush to take refuge in ports of refuge equipped in estuaries and flooded ravines, hide until shreds of dark clouds and water dust and spray flying over the foamy shafts did not merge into one wildly spinning and howling chaos.

But this is autumn. Storms are rare in summer. In summer, the greenish water surface basks under the sun for a long day, the distant shore melts in a haze. In the evening, a hot red ball slowly descends in the west into the heated water, the sunset fades, and the first stars appear in the darkening sky. And at night, a sea of ​​lights opens from the captain's bridge. Some of them burn with a calm, even light, flashing beacons and alignments wink, as if talking in Morse code. Darkness hides distances, and it is difficult to figure out which lights are farther, which are closer, and where they are - on the shore or in the water, moving or not. Probably, those that are higher are coastal ones, or maybe they are stars? You throw your head back and the sky seems like an extension of the dark river...

The water regime of the Kuibyshev Sea depends on the operating mode of the HPP. Its influence is clearly felt even 100 km from the dam. However, winds that are stable in direction can cause noticeable surges of water along one coast and surges from the opposite. In the Tolyatti region, for example, with a northerly wind, the water rises by almost 1 m. The usual annual fluctuations in the water level in the Kuibyshev reservoir are 6-7 m. kilometers.

The ice regime of the Kuibyshev reservoir is complex. By the end of winter, the thickness of ice near the coast over shallow depths often reaches 1 m, and in the open part - 70 cm. As if in the north, somewhere in Lake Ladoga, hummocks here are 3 m high! When the Volga at the top is already free of ice and during the day the sun is already baking like summer, icebreakers pave the way for ships in the Kuibyshev reservoir. It’s hard to believe your eyes when at the end of April you suddenly find yourself in ice fields after free water and heat. Everywhere you look, there is gray icy crumbling everywhere, among which spots of white ice floes that are still quite bright in winter are brightening in places. There is fog over the reservoir, the ship is moving slowly, sighing and rustling the ice crumble it pushes apart, swaying on the waves, the glass of ice tinkles.

Lower Volga

From the Kuibyshev reservoir, 241 km3 of water per year enters the Lower Volga. However, the Volga brings only about 240 km3 of water to the Caspian Sea. No, not only because its water is taken for irrigation and other needs of the national economy. Recall the drawing of a hydrographic network. The lush crown of the Volga "tree" ends approximately at the Samarskaya Luka, just where the Lower Volga begins. The last major tributary is Yeruslan, there are no more “branches” below it on the “trunk” of the river, and the Lower Volga flows through a zone of steppes and semi-deserts. The climate there is continental, arid, the average annual rainfall decreases to the south from 500 to 200 mm.

Despite the huge amount of water that the Lower Volga carries, it also had many shoals and rifts, a whole network of them stretched from Syzran to Astrakhan itself. And one had to know the river well in order to navigate the ship there. Large waters usually subsided in the Lower Volga by August and so quickly that ships that unsuccessfully chose a place to anchor at night often found themselves stranded by morning.

To ensure the depths required for navigation, the fairway on the river had to be systematically cleared of sand drifts. In the late 80s of the XIX century, an iron rake by engineer Bykov was used for this. They were a huge "harrow" that was suspended at a certain depth between two boats slowly towed by a steamer. Then rakes replaced dredgers. As soon as it fell big water, they began to collect sand from the fairway and worked until freezing. Low water on the Lower Volga has always been stable. But the river carried sediment again and again, it lived according to its own laws.

It is not easy to stop or direct the channel processes in a different way even in small rivers. The unstable sandy bed of the Volga has always given rivermen a lot of trouble. At the beginning of the 20th century, near Kamenny Yar, a thin Volga branch separated from the Volga, and Saralevsky Island arose between it and the channel of the Volga. Several decades passed, and the main flow of the river began to move intensively to the side of the Volozhka, and the old ship's passage was covered with sand. In the 19th century, sediments blocked the approach of ships to Syzran, which was an important trading pier. During the low water period, the steamboats had to stop before reaching the city, near the island, 4 km away. In an even more unenviable position, Khvalynsk found itself in low water, from which, at the end of the 19th century, up to 5.2 million poods of various cargoes were sent each navigation - steamers anchored, not reaching it 7 km.

Although, after the regulation of the Volga, the channel processes slowed down, and now one cannot ignore them. Near Balakovo, for example, near Devushkiny Island, the river always carries sand to the fairway, and motor ships bypassing the spit, leaving the Saratov reservoir, are forced to turn almost 90 ° to the right. In the area of ​​the Volga HPP named after Lenin, due to the strong erosion of the channel, there is no stable relationship between water discharges and its levels. The very first water releases after the completion of the construction of the hydroelectric complex led to the formation of a pit 14 m deep in the downstream and erosion of the coast for 6 km. Therefore, the main provisions of the rules of use water resources there are restrictions on the daily regulation of the water regime. The flow rate of water supplied to the downstream of the reservoir - the so-called basic release - during the day should not be less than 2000 m3 / s. And the amplitude of daily fluctuations in the level of water in the downstream should not exceed 2.5 m at the dam and 2 m at the exit from the lower lock channel during the entire navigation period; at the same time, the water level at the outlet to the river should not fall by more than 30 cm at average daily water releases of 4000 m3/s, and at lower ones - by more than 1 m.

The Lower Volga begins behind the dam of the Volga hydroelectric power station named after Lenin by the Saratov reservoir, which extends along the Volga valley to Balakovo. Zhiguli stretch along it for almost 100 km. “The shores there are as beautiful as one can imagine,” wrote Jan Streis. Indeed, the green hills running over each other, among which here and there mountains rise, overgrown with fir on the tops, are very picturesque. Confidingly clung to the foot of them, drowning in the spring in the white boiling of bird cherry villages. In autumn, the banks here are colored with gold and crimson, and everything around is filled with a reflection of a cold fire raging in the Zhiguli. Deep, gorge-like hollows crawl like snakes into the bowels of the mountains. Behind the ledges of the rocks overgrown with forest, once, waiting for merchants with goods floating from below, the daring freemen of the Volga lurked. The entrances to the caves, where falcons and red ducks used to nest in a multitude, grow dark in the steep banks. Some of them can be reached only by descending from above a sheer cliff on a rope.

The huge Bahilova Mountain with three peaks of a narrow ridge, clearly visible against the sky, looks like a petrified prehistoric monster. Behind it downstream is the village of Shiryaevo, in which I. Repin wrote "Barge Haulers on the Volga". It is a pity that limestone is being mined there now open way. The belly of the wonderful mountain, opened by tiers, turns deadly brown, only its top is still intact and bristles with forest. Failed to keep his head in our industrial age and the famous Tsar's Kurgan. It is torn down to almost half and no longer stands out among the surrounding hills. Behind the Tsarev Kurgan, on the left bank of the reservoir, the Sokoly Mountains begin, and on the right, Sulfur Mountain rises - sulfur was mined there under Peter I. Cramped on both sides by cliffs, the Volga valley narrows - in front of the famous Zhiguli Gates. In former times, the current speed here reached 2.5 m / s, but now the surface of the water is always calm.

Beyond the Zhiguli Gates, the Volga valley expands again. And again - islands, backwaters, white shallows. Before the river was regulated, the fairway ran almost all the time near the right bank, and from the steamer the Zhiguli seemed even more majestic and beautiful. Melting in a bluish haze left astern Mountain country. Downstream, the Shelekhmetovskiye mountains begin. On the steep banks, talus is visible everywhere; here and there in the form of rounded columns, then acute-angled pilasters, the parent rock emerges through them. And it seems from afar that an ancient fortress wall is hiding behind the scree.

Screes and landslides are common on the banks of the Volga. On the steep slopes of its valley there are thick sandy-clayey strata interbedded with aquifers, and the sandy riverbed is unstable. About 100 years ago, not far from the city of Syzran, the whole village of Malaya Fedorovka sank into the water. Adam Olearius, in his notes, tells about a case that happened shortly before his voyage, when a ship anchored under the high bank of the Lower Volga was crushed by a huge block that collapsed into the river. Due to landslides, the city of Cherny Yar had to be moved to another place. Several times its buildings collapsed into the water along with part of the shore. The Volga also tried to dig under the village of Lebyazhinskaya, located not far from Astrakhan. Only after the reservoirs were regulated, the river became calmer.

Of all the reservoirs, the Saratov is most similar to a powerful sluggish river, although its width in some places reaches 10-17 km. But after all, the Volga, before regulation, with all its volozhkas, islands and backwaters, was also not narrow! The resemblance here, however, is not only superficial. The process of water exchange proceeds in the Saratov reservoir much faster than in other Volga reservoirs; it is the only reservoir among them with weekly rather than seasonal flow regulation. Its useful volume of water is only about 14% of the total, while in all other Volga reservoirs it exceeds 50%. In the Rybinsk Sea, the useful volume of water, for example, is approximately 66% of its total amount, in the Uglich Sea - 67%. When the Kuibyshev reservoir discharges water, the Saratov reservoir passes it through its possessions in transit. Precipitation on the water surface in the supply of the Saratov reservoir is only 0.3%, and surface inflow - 99.7%. The rivers Sok, Samara, Big and Small Irgiz carry water into it.

Due to the relatively fast water exchange, the ice regime of the Saratov reservoir is much lighter than the ice regime of the Kuibyshev Sea located behind the dam of the Volga HPP named after Lenin. The Saratov reservoir usually freezes in the 20th of November, and it opens from the ice in mid-April. The navigation period on the Lower Volga is 24 days longer than on the Middle - it is 224 days.

The wet walls of the sluice slide quickly upward, lowering the ship to the level of the last, deepest and longest Volga reservoir - Volgograd. Its length is 546 km, the average depth exceeds 10 m, but in terms of area, the Volgograd reservoir occupies only the third place. From Volsk to Saratov, along its right bank, the gloomy Serpent Mountains stretch. early spring and late autumn their white chalk peaks and gray slopes that seem almost black in places resemble the delicate drawing of an ancient engraving. In summer, the shores are powdered with light chestnut dust of the steppes. The sky is cloudless, faded from the heat, and in the evenings the wind brings the smell of ripe bread and dry herbs to the river. Near Saratov, the longest bridge in Europe was built across the Volga. However, the river here is so wide and powerful that the bridge is lost in its open spaces and does not make an impression of great.

Behind the village of Zolotoe, the right bank of the Volga breaks off to the water with a pinkish-yellow limestone wall. Below it is decorated with dark purple screes, and on top it covers such a thin layer of soil that it seems that it can be rolled up like a carpet, along with houses and trees. The pinkish-yellow wall is replaced by greenish, greenish - gray with yellow and purple stripes. Kamyshinskiye Ushami is the name given to the outcrops of gray quartzite sandstones near Kamyshin. From the depths of millennia, they brought to us the prints of plants of the Tertiary period, similar to patterns on frozen glass.

Kamyshin is known not only for the beauties of nature located in its vicinity. In this city, for the first time in Russia, D. Perry in August 1700 measured the flow of water in the Volga. The obtained value was equal to 6360 m3/s. On its basis, the annual flow of the great Russian river into the Caspian Sea was determined by D. Perry at 235 km3.

Previously, the water content of the Volga in the area now occupied by the Volgograd reservoir fluctuated very strongly depending on the year and season. According to observations over more than 80 years, from 1879 to 1962, the average annual water discharge near Volgograd was 8380 m3/s. At the same time, in the year 1926, rich in precipitation, it was 12,400 m3/s, while the highest average daily water flow in the spring of this year reached 51,900 m3/s. And in the dry year of 1921, the average annual water flow near Volgograd was only 5180 m3 / s. The high floods that happened on the Lower Volga before are evidenced by at least the fact that the city of Tsaritsyn, originally founded on the island, after several floods in the 16th century, was moved to the root bank to a high place. During periods of summer and winter low water flow in the Lower Volga used to decrease to 1000 m3/s. At the end of the 20s of our century, the summer on the Volga was very hot, and the river became shallow so that the sands sliding along its channel near Saratov formed “hills” up to 5 m high, among which lakes with warm water shone. Navigation near the right bank of the river was supported only by non-stop dredging. After the regulation of the Lower Volga, its runoff, according to M.S. Pakhomov, increased by 15-29% during low-water years in high-water years, and by 60-70% in low-water years. At present, the average annual discharge of the river near Volgograd is about 7650 m3/s. Downstream, without receiving additional supply from tributaries, the Volga loses about 6% of its flow. The last tributary of the great river - Yeruslan flows into the Volgograd reservoir above the city of Kamyshin. By the way, Eruslan passes along the zero horizontal, and the area located to the south of it lies below the level of the Baltic Sea, from which it is customary to count the heights of the earth's surface.

The hydrological regime of the Volgograd reservoir is determined by the operation of the HPP and economic water releases. Usually, the fluctuations in the water level in it are about 2 m. The Volgograd hydroelectric power station has created such water and thermal regimes that freezing on the Volga is now spreading not from north to south, but vice versa - from Astrakhan to Volgograd. The ice edge usually approaches Volgograd in the last days of December, but there is still a polynya below the hydroelectric dam, the length of which in mild winters reaches 60 km or more. Winter for the rivermen of Volgograd is a turbulent time. Due to fluctuations in the water level, the ice constantly breaks, and so many ice floes pile up to the landing stage that it has to be moved from place to place. There is a known case when the landing stage moved 12 times during the winter.

Near the dam of the Volgograd hydroelectric power station, the left branch of the Akhtuba departs from the Volga. From here to the mouth it is still more than 600 km, but the nature here is already different. At Volgograd, the Volga Upland ends; further south goes zone semi-deserts, through which the Volga-Akhtuba floodplain ran in a wide ribbon to the Caspian Sea.

Akhtuba near Volgograd looks like the most ordinary Volozhka, which does not inspire much respect, and yet it accompanies the Volga, maintaining communication with it from time to time through channels, for 450 km. During floods in the Volga-Akhtuba floodplain, there are 279 watercourses. If it were possible to put them all together and then stretch them into one line, its length would be 4800 km. The width of the Volga-Akhtuba floodplain ranges from 15 to 45 km. It stretches like a green oasis among the desert lands scorched by the sun, where in places only spots of white, aquamarine and golden-red salt lakes glisten. There are no rivers or streams around, only rare wells, in the names of which there is a yearning for fresh water - “Bitter Drink”, “Three Sheep”.

The banks of the Volga after Volgograd are gradually lowered, the trees disappear. Reviving the dull landscape, only the holes of the nests of shore swallows darken in the cliffs above the water. Then they disappear too - the banks become quite low. A wide ribbon of the river winds among the sandy islands overgrown with bushes. You won’t understand - the native coast, whether the islands ... And you can’t see people. The Lower Volga is deserted, even now it is deserted. And what was it like before?

The first military settlements appeared here in the 16th century; A. Jenkinson, an English traveler and ambassador, counted six of them. The first guard of 50 archers stood 7 versts below Perevoloka, and the sixth, last, 30 versts above Astrakhan. The archers must have felt uncomfortable on the great Russian river, the only road that connected them with distant Russia.

In spring and autumn, thick white fogs are frequent in the Volga-Akhtuba floodplain. Sometimes they spread over a considerable distance, and sometimes they are surprisingly local, so that from afar they can be mistaken for a small cloud descending from the sky and entangled in the coastal reeds. You can't swim in fog. And in good visibility, you have to be very careful here. It's not a reservoir, it's a river. The fairway is not wide and very winding. It seems that the ship on your left side is going along the neighboring channel, but some time passes - and it turns out to be directly in front of you on the course. The bright sun bakes alternately the starboard side of the vessel, then the left. And in the evening, red and yellow lights of buoys and alignments are lit on the river. Mockingly winking, they surround the ship from all sides, and the uninitiated in the secrets of navigation finally loses all orientation in the surrounding space. A dense aroma of blossoming leaves, herbs and some flowers flows in waves from the shore. And then, when the shore becomes dark already with one common mass, the moon will rise, and it will run along the water, the lunar path will stream. Shining with lights, an oncoming ship will sail, for a moment it will splash you with the noise of cheerful voices, music, laughter - and again the darkness of a wide and quiet river will surround you. The diesel engines will hum evenly and calmly, as if alive, the hull of the ship will tremble a little, confidently paving the way along the lights of the ship situation scattered around. By the way, the illumination of buoys and alignments was introduced only at the end of the last century, before that they did not swim along the rivers at night.

Before the regulation, the Volga overflowed in the spring away from the channel, it used to be 25-30 km away. In other years, the water level in the river rose by 8-8.5 m near Volgograd, and by 5.5 m near Astrakhan, flooding low-lying lands. Now there are no spring floods below Volgograd. Only changes in the water level in the river during surges and surges from the Caspian Sea remained from the past. The southerly wind, locally called the sea wind, sometimes raises the water near Astrakhan by 2 m above the ordinary or more, causing a reverse flow in the Volga. The "tides" caused by the sea, roll up to the city of Enotaevsk. Northerly winds can cause a lowering of the river horizon near Astrakhan by 80 cm, while the fresh Volga jet can be traced into the sea at a distance of 55 km.

Astrakhan is located on 11 islands. Wherever you go there, there are channels everywhere, channels - Kutum, Bolda, Kizan, Cossack Erik, Pervomaisky Canal. It is curious to note that the Pervomaisky Canal, running from the Volga to the city center, was dug at the beginning of the 18th century by decree of Peter I. Probably, earlier, when ships and boats stood in all the channels and eriks of Astrakhan, the city looked like Venice.

From the Astrakhan Kremlin to the pier in our time, you need to walk ten to fifteen minutes. In the 18th century, the Volga flowed under its walls. In recent centuries, the main flow of the river has constantly moved in a westerly direction. In the 16th century, A. Jenkinson descended into the Caspian Sea along the deep and full-flowing branch of the Volga Bolde, Adam Olearius in the 17th century could no longer use this route, he went to the west - along the Ivanchug branch. In the 18th - early 19th centuries, the Volga itself served as a road to the sea, but then its channel began to be covered with sand and strongly split into branches. I had to move the ship's passage even further west - to Bakhtemir.

Volga Delta

Astrakhan smells of the sea, although it is still 200 km from here, and 50 km to the delta. The beginning of the delta is considered to be the place where the large Bakhtemir canal separates from the Volga. From here begins a particularly intensive division of the Volga and its channels into multiple branches. At the beginning of our millennium, the Volga flowed into the Caspian Sea with 70 branches, in any case, as many of them are indicated in the Tale of Bygone Years. In the 40s of the XX century, there were about 800 branches near the Volga, while the total length of all the watercourses of the Volga delta was about 70 thousand km, which is almost 20 times the length of the river itself. At present, the number of Volga branches is again decreasing, and the delta region is shifting to the south. From 1930 to 1951, the level of the Caspian Sea dropped by 2.05 m and continues to fall, although now it is not so intense.

The Volga delta is a complex interweaving of countless branches and channels on an area of ​​19 thousand km2. There are many oxbow lakes, floods, or locally ilmens, islands, islets and impassable green jungles in shallow waters. Gallery plantings of willow stretch along the banks of some channels, others are bordered by a dense wall of reeds - you swim in a green corridor sometimes for more than an hour, seeing nothing but the sky above your head. On some channels you can swim on oars, on others - only with a pole, in some it is better not to meddle with a pole, they are so densely overgrown with various aquatic plants. Water chestnut flowers froze like white butterflies on the water. Its four-horned, anchor-like fruits reach a diameter of 50 cm. Astrakhans call this plant chilim. But we do not chill the main wealth of the delta, but thickets of lotus, or water rose, as it was once called. In total, they occupy about 2 thousand hectares. More than 60 years ago, in 1919, V. I. Lenin signed a decree establishing the Astrakhan State Reserve in the delta to protect its unique natural resources.

source of the great river

A small, as they say, knee-deep stream flows out of a swamp overgrown with reeds, located in a dense forest. And its beginning is under a platform of logs, on which local residents a chopped decorated hut was set up.

Many people come here to look at the beginning of this great river, take a few sips of spring water. Under the platform in an oak frame, a key (spring) freely breaks through the ground, from which the largest river in the world originates. Yes, we were not mistaken, the longest river in the world that does not flow into the sea. The Caspian Sea, into which the Volga carries its waters, is actually an endorheic lake. But if you still count it as a sea, then the Volga River will be in 6th place in Russia (after the great Siberian rivers) and 16th in the world. This place is located near the village of Volgoverkhovye, not far from Tver, a few hundred kilometers northwest of Moscow. In ancient times, the Volga was very long - 3690 km. But as a result of the construction of a whole cascade of hydroelectric power plants, it lost 160 km due to the straightening of the channel in the reservoirs. Now its length is 3530 km. But the Volga River does not flow alone, but with sisters - Kama, Oka, Sura. And it has about 200 smaller tributaries. Its name comes from the ancient Slavic word "vologa", which means moisture. But different nations called it differently. For example, the ancient Greek Claudius Ptolemy, who lived in the famous Alexandria, where merchants talked about the great river, called it Ra in his Geography. Later, in the Middle Ages, her name was Atel, and Itil, and Etel, etc. The Old Russian Tale of Bygone Years tells that the Volga River “originates from the Okovsky forest (Valdai forest), runs at sunrise, with seventy branches flows into the Khvalis Sea ... ”(now the Caspian Sea).

Amazing places on the Volga

Volumes can be written about the Volga. We will only talk about what seemed surprising to us. Since ancient times, people have settled near water sources. The Volga River was no exception. Cities rose from those ancient settlements over time. Of the 15 millionaire cities in Russia, 4 are on the Volga. These are: Nizhny Novgorod, Samara, Kazan, Volgograd. Nizhny Novgorod and Kazan have medieval fortresses (kremlin) overlooking the river bank. In the 1930s, during the construction of the Uglich hydroelectric power station, almost the entire city of Kalyazin was flooded. Part of the buildings and St. Nicholas Cathedral were blown up, but the bell tower of the cathedral was left for orientation to passing ships. Removing the bell, they dropped it into the basement of the already flooded bell tower. There is a legend that since then he sometimes calls underwater. This happens on the eve of tragic events for the country: in June 1941, before the Moscow battle, on the eve of the Stalingrad and Kursk battles. The last time he called was in 1979 before the Afghan war. Before the Moscow Olympics, the base of the bell tower was covered with stone and sand, making an artificial island. They are taking it there now

tourists. On the opposite bank of the river there is now a parabolic antenna of a radio telescope. In the lower reaches of the Volga, in Astrakhan region, in 1818 the largest Buddhist temple in Europe was built - the Khosheut khurul (temple). It was built with the money of the Khosheut princely family and voluntary donations from the people. The head of the family Serbedzhab Tyumen (1774-1848) supervised the construction. S. Tyumen was the commander of the 2nd Astrakhan Kalmyk regiment in the war of 1812 and was repeatedly awarded for heroism. Khurul became a monument to the victory in the war. In the 1960s, part of the structure was dismantled for building materials. In 1985, restoration began, but the Union "collapsed" - the construction site also collapsed. Now they are slowly rebuilding. The photograph shows the khurul in its original form.

Volga Delta

Place in the Caspian Sea , where the Volga River flows is called a delta. These are about 500 branches and ducts, flowing one into another, constantly changing their place, depth and width. The delta begins with the Buzan channel north of Astrakhan. Of all the branches, only Akhtuba is navigable. All other watercourses, as they approach the sea, are divided into smaller channels. Therefore, the mouth of the Volga River occupies more than a hundred kilometers in length on the sea coast. Every year, the coastline recedes into the sea by 130-150 m.