Making a concrete pool with your own hands. concrete pool

Summer holidays in a country house equipped with a swimming pool become several times more pleasant and healthier. However, not everyone can afford the installation of such a design, because the services of qualified specialists are not cheap. That's why most of homeowners are used to being content with a simple summer shower, resigned to the fact that having the opportunity to swim in their own backyard is

In fact, building a concrete pool with your own hands is quite simple, you just need to purchase everything necessary materials and have a couple of assistants, without which you can not do in the process of digging a pit and pouring concrete. But how exactly and in what sequence such work is performed, we will consider in our article.

Preparatory work

Before you start building a concrete pool with your own hands, you need to decide on its location and dimensions of the structure. At this stage, one should take into account the fact that the greater its depth and width, the more finance will be required for construction.

If you want the rest in the pool to be as comfortable as possible, it is recommended to do the excavation calculations based on the following facts:

• In order for an adult to swim normally, the minimum depth of the pool should be 1.5 meters, and the length should be about 5 meters. How many tracks there will be - the owner himself decides, but their minimum width should be 1.5 meters.
• The arrangement of the side walls and the bottom of the structure will take about 0.5 meters of the width and depth of the pit, so it is recommended to make calculations taking into account this margin.

For those who have no idea how to build a concrete pool with their own hands, a step-by-step instruction will help determine the sequence of work.

In advance, you should decide on the type of location of the pool. It can be completely recessed or protrude slightly above ground level.

If you have little construction experience, then it is better to equip the pool with simple and regular shapes. A rectangular bowl in this case will be the best solution.

Do not forget that, in addition to a place for swimming, it is necessary to equip a place for draining and installing equipment (filters, heaters, etc.). To do this, dig a small pit (slightly deeper than the main bowl).

When choosing a place for the pool, pay attention to the depth of the groundwater. The bowl should be installed in the driest place in the area where there are the fewest trees (so that the falling leaves do not pollute the water).

Necessary materials and tools

So, when the project of the future pool is drawn up and the place for its construction is determined, it's time to start purchasing materials and prepare all the necessary tools.

To make (from concrete) you will need:

• cement (for these purposes, products labeled 500 and 600 are used);
• crushed stone (middle fraction);
• sand;
• waterproofing materials;
• geotextile;
• fittings and metal mesh;
• wooden boards and timber (to create formwork);
• Sander;
• concrete mixer;
• rebar tying tool.

When all materials are delivered to the construction site, work can begin.

swarm excavation

Earthwork is the first and most time-consuming stage, without which it is impossible to build a pool with your own hands from concrete. Step-by-step instruction for this period is as follows:

1. Marking is carried out on the ground. Along the perimeter of the future pit, pegs are installed on which the twine is pulled.
2. When marking the perimeter of the pool, about 80 cm should be added to the width and length of the bowl. This stock will come in handy during the installation of formwork with spacers.
3. When the contours are marked, you can start excavating. So that during the work the walls of the pit do not crumble, they are made with a slight slope (about 5 degrees).
4. If specialized equipment was involved for earthworks, then the final cleaning of the bottom should be carried out manually (with a shovel).

Foundation preparation

The bottom plate is one of the most important elements of the entire structure, on which the maximum load is exerted. Therefore, pay special attention to its arrangement, creating a pool with your own hands (made of concrete). Waterproofing and backfilling give the bottom plate additional strength and extend the life of the bowl itself.

At this stage, the following work is performed:

1. At the bottom of the pit, a trench is dug leading to a pit. A drain pipe is installed in it. If the pool area is large enough, one pipe may not be enough, so it is better to think over several drains at once. They are installed with a slope towards the pit (10 mm slope for each meter of pipe length).
2. The bottom of the pit is leveled and compacted.
3. To prevent cracking of the bottom plate, the bottom of the future pool is covered with a geotextile. The rolled material is overlapped by about 20 cm.
4. A waterproofing material is placed on top of the geotextile. For these purposes, roofing material or plastic film can be used. The waterproofing is laid in 2 layers, the overlap of adjacent strips is 15 cm. The edges of the roofing material should lie on the side walls by 20 cm.
5. The prepared bottom of the pit is covered with a sand-gravel drainage cushion. Its width should be at least 20 cm. Gravel can be used instead of crushed stone. The bedding is leveled, carefully compacted and spilled with water.

Reinforcing mesh manufacturing

1. Along the entire perimeter of the bottom of the pit, formwork of a small height is installed, after which they begin to tie the reinforcement. To create a reinforcing stack, metal rods with a diameter of 12-14 mm should be used. For deep pools, you can take the material thicker. The distance between the rods can vary between 10-50 cm (with a horizontal arrangement).
2. In places of turns and on curved sections, reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm is used. In this case, the step should be reduced in order to give the structure sufficient strength.
3. If the thickness of the slab is within 20 cm, then the height of the reinforcing frame should be at least 10 cm.
4. In order for the horizontal frame to be in the center of the concrete screed, it is installed on bricks (5 cm thick).
5. The extreme bars of the reinforcement, located along the perimeter of the grid, are bent by 90 degrees in order to further tie the bars of vertical reinforcement to them.
6. To prevent corrosion, the reinforcement is coated with special protective compounds. Excellent for these purposes is suitable which is applied to the product in several layers.

Pouring concrete to the bottom of the pool

To build a concrete pool with your own hands, you will need a lot of mortar. If finances allow, it is better to order ready-made concrete, which will be brought to your site in a special machine. In order to save money, you can make the desired solution with your own hands, adding special water-repellent additives to it, which will give the product additional strength.

When building a pool with your own hands from concrete in the country, it should be remembered that the foundation must be poured in one day so that a strong monolithic slab is obtained at the bottom. In the process of pouring the bottom slab, the solution should be pierced with a wooden rod to release the air accumulated below.

When the concrete is poured to the desired level, the bottom of the pool is covered with a film and left to dry for 10 days. If the weather is hot outside, the solution is periodically moistened with water to eliminate the possibility of cracking.

Building walls

For small pools, whose capacity does not exceed 15 cubic meters, they equip walls 20 cm thick. Focusing on this indicator, the construction of formwork and vertical reinforcing mesh begins.

When creating a pool with your own hands (made of concrete), the reinforcing frame is made in the same way as for the bottom slab. Its planes are poured with concrete 50 cm thick. The rods of the vertical wall frame are tied to the protruding rods of the bottom reinforcing layer.

Formwork is installed on both sides of the resulting frame. It can be assembled from any wood materials not thinner than 2 cm. From the outside and from inside supports are installed on the wooden structure, which will not allow the walls to bend under the pressure of concrete.

After making sure that the frame for the walls is strong enough, you can begin to fill it with concrete. The work is also carried out on the same day. The final curing time of the walls depends on weather conditions and can be from 10 to 30 days.

Finishing work

As you can see, building a concrete pool with your own hands is not so difficult. Of course, the process is quite laborious, but it does not require special experience and knowledge.

At this stage, the most complex work are running out. Now you need to do the protective treatment of the bowl.

After removal plaster. To do this, they are attached to them. The work is carried out using a cement-sand mortar (in a ratio of 1: 2) with the addition of latex additives and microfiber. The walls are covered with a uniform layer of plaster and left to dry.

When they are completely dry, you can proceed with the installation of lighting fixtures, nozzles and bottom drain.

Completing the construction process, the inner surface of the walls is impregnated with liquid waterproofing.

If groundwater is too close, the surfaces are pre-treated with a primer. External waterproofing is carried out using welded or liquid materials. This completes the construction of the pool, and the owners can begin to decorate it.

Do-it-yourself pool made of concrete indoors

AT recent times pools are installed not only on the street, but also inside houses. A large number of private cottages are equipped with steam rooms, after visiting which you really want to freshen up by jumping into the pool with cool water. That is why I would like to separately consider how to build a pool with your own hands (from concrete) in a bath.

In fact, the process of building an indoor pool is no different from the above method. The only significant difference is that the foundation pit must be dug out at the stage of building a house. In this case, the reinforced concrete bowl is installed on the foundation, in a previously prepared pit.

If the foundation of the house is strong enough and deep enough, you can pull out the pool already in the finished building, but here you need to be extremely careful. If groundwater is too close to a house, it can erode the foundations of the house, leading to big problems.

It should also be remembered that the walls of the pool should in no case come into contact with the walls of the building, since water that exerts great pressure on all surfaces adjacent to the pool can cause cracks. Therefore, it is better to leave a small gap, which is filled with foam or sand.

Decorative finish of the pool

Completing this topic, we will touch on the most popular way of finishing pools - facing with ceramic tiles. Such wall covering is considered the most aesthetic, hygienic and practical. Therefore, if you decide to build a pool with your own hands from concrete and tiles, you can be sure that the end result will certainly please you.

But are all tiles suitable for swimming pools? Let's look at exactly what materials should be purchased for this purpose.

1. When choosing a tile for the pool, you should give preference to products with high water-repellent qualities.
2. Special attention on the reverse side of the product. It should be rough with anti-slip grooves. Such a tile will stay on the surface longer.
3. For laying tiles in the pool, you should choose only waterproof glue.
4. Grouting is carried out using titanium compounds that are resistant to moisture and do not form mold.

Products are laid on a plastered surface. The wall cleaned of dust is smeared with an even layer of glue, after which the tile is pressed tightly against it. Thus, the entire pool is laid out.

After the glue dries, the seams are rubbed with a moisture-resistant grout. At this stage, the pool is completely ready for operation.

In this article, we tried to tell in detail, from concrete with our own hands. Photos of some stages will help you imagine the construction process and assess the degree of complexity of the work being done.

Please note that when building a pool, you should not save on basic materials, as in this case you will waste money, time and own forces. We hope we have answered all your questions regarding this topic. All the best.

Currently, it is increasingly possible to observe how private owners are building pools on their plots. This is not only a means for entertainment and relaxation, but also part of the interior of the whole house. Building a pool with your own hands is not so easy. Particular attention in its manufacture should be paid to the filling of the floor and walls. Most often, concrete is used for these purposes. It is an artificial construction material, consisting of several components: sand, cement powder, crushed stone or gravel and water. It has high strength and is widely used in construction. Thanks to the introduction of special additives into its composition: stabilizers, sealants, water repellents, it is possible to obtain a material with desired properties.

Today it has become popular to build a swimming pool in your country house. Particular attention during construction is paid to the foundation. The floor and walls are usually filled.

For example, pouring is relevant only if the bowl does not let moisture through. hygroscopicity is very important property. Since the pool is built directly on the ground and in its upper layer, the structure will be exposed to both surface and groundwater. Therefore, its durability, strength and moisture resistance will largely depend on the quality of the fill. Let us consider in more detail how the filling is carried out, its main stages.

Preparatory work

Filling the pool involves additional work. These include the design of the formwork.

The construction of the pool implies the mandatory construction of formwork.

Formwork installation is a very important part of the work, and it will be necessary to observe the thickness of the protective layer. Formwork can be wood or plywood. Reusable formwork will be required when constructing from reinforced concrete; for steps, slopes, disposable formwork is optimal. Before pouring, it will be necessary to pour an underlying layer in the form of sand, crushed stone or gravel with a thickness of 100 - 200 mm. Next, reinforcing with steel mesh is carried out.

To fill the pool with a solution, you will need a whole set of raw materials and tools. First of all, it is a concrete mixer, mixing containers, buckets, a shovel, purified river sand without clay impurities, tap or well water, high-grade cement powder and crushed stone (gravel). It is necessary to prepare the solution, observing all proportions. The mixture is prepared as follows: 1 part of cement is taken, for example, grade 500, mixed with water. Water must be taken as much as cement or a little less. All this is thoroughly mixed, half of the required volume of sand is added, that is, 1 part, then 2 buckets of crushed stone and the rest of the sand are added. The ratio of components depends on the grade of cement and the required grade. It must be remembered that after the preparation of concrete, it must be used within 1 - 3 hours.

Pouring technology

Filling the pool is a rather simple matter, the main thing is to follow all the basic requirements. Pour concrete into the prepared formwork up to the top board of the shield. Such work involves the phased pouring of the bottom of the bowl first, and then its walls.

Filling the pool involves a phased filling: first the pool bowls, and then its walls.

To fill the bottom, a mixture of grades not lower than B 15 in terms of strength, and grades not less than W 15 in terms of water permeability, is used.

For an open variant, such a quality indicator as frost resistance will be very important. The mark on it is allowed not lower than F 100 - F 150. It is advisable to introduce anti-corrosion additives, strength stabilizers and water repellents into the mixture.

There are 2 main ways to fill the pool: continuous and in 2 stages. In the first case, the work is carried out in 1 step, and a monolithic block is obtained. With it, the next layer seizes with the previous one without cold joints. This method is bad in that it may be required special equipment: concrete pumps and concrete mixers. Concreting is carried out using submersible vibrators.

Method in 2 doses

If it is not possible to organize a continuous supply, then use the second method.

The device of the reinforced concrete bowl of the pool: 1. Fittings class A-I, A-III
2. Anti-corrosion coating of fittings. 3. Concrete М350В25W6-8
4. Sealing cold seam. 5. Primer. 6. Leveling plaster layer. 7. Waterproofing on a grid. 8. Tile adhesive
9. Mosaic. 10. Grouting. 11. Floor tiles. 12. Thermal seam.

It is based on the use of a special key, which makes it possible to ensure tightness at the junction of two layers of concrete: hardened and fresh. Thus, here the use of a cold joint takes place. First, the bottom is poured, and only then the sides. A self-expanding cord with a diameter of 2–3 cm is laid at the joints of the two layers of the solution. The mass is poured onto it. The tightness of the structure is ensured by the fact that in aquatic environment the cord sharply increases in size, closing all possible gaps and thereby does not let water through.

There is also the so-called layer-by-layer pouring of concrete. In this case, after the first poured layer has solidified, wooden shields are removed. They are rearranged higher so that the lower edge of the shield remains 20 mm below the filled layer. Shields are fastened with nails or dowels. After the poured concrete is level with the ground, the shields are placed at a height of about 30 cm from the ground level. At a distance of 300 mm from the inner one, an external shield is installed around the entire perimeter, the shields are fastened together. Between the shields there are 2 layers of reinforcing mesh and a layer of reinforcing bars. At the end, pour the thickest part of the walls of the pool. After pouring, the entire surface is rubbed.

Making a pool with your own hands from concrete is not easy. The complexity of the task is not diminished by reducing the size of the pool.

The classic option for building a pool is a concrete bowl lined with tiles.

When designing, it is necessary to take into account the location of cleaning equipment, technical equipment, pipelines, microclimatic systems, recreation areas and bypass paths. The thickness of the bottom plate, the walls of the pool, the brand and diameter and grade of the main reinforcement are determined on the basis of hydrostatic calculations. At the same time, various load options are considered and the most unfavorable version is selected. The level of groundwater flow and the density of the earth are also taken into account. These factors are of decisive importance when choosing the method of carrying out construction activities and determining their scope. If all the above work is not done, the pool can quickly fail.

To make a pool with your own hands, you will need tools and materials:

• cement grade 500 and 600;
• medium fraction crushed stone;
• sand;
• waterproofing plasticizing additives in concrete;
• reinforcing mesh, steel reinforcement;
• timber and wood board for formwork;
• grinder, concrete mixer, rebar gun.

The preparation of the base is carried out before construction work. If they build outdoor pools with their own hands, it includes the creation of a foundation pit, and if necessary, a sand cushion is installed (the thickness of which is made from 15 to 30 cm), laying a concrete substrate (with a thickness of about 10 cm). If the location of the bottom plate is below the groundwater level, then the drainage is located under it and around the perimeter.

If you try to make a pool with your own hands, there may be problems with underground and flowing atmospheric waters that can fall under the product.

Therefore, it is recommended to equip the outlet channel and the main slab around the perimeter with drainage. To do this, they dig a trench in the space of the channel that drains water and along the perimeter, and then fill it with gravel. The depth of the trench depends on the method of arranging the floor of the pool and the level of its immersion in the ground (if the pool is partially settled above the surface level).

Formwork assembly

Before the start of concreting, embedded elements are installed and fixed: bottom drain, nozzles and mortgages for them, headlights, skimmers, countercurrent mortgages, etc. Tie all this equipment with cables, PVC pipes. And then all these elements are poured with concrete. When installing embedded elements, it should be borne in mind that bowls are usually cast using concrete, which shrinks after laying. Therefore, you need to use a technology that does not allow voids and shells to appear. In addition, during the pouring of concrete bowls, shrinkage deformation occurs, which can lead to a shift and turn of embedded elements.

These consequences are undesirable, since it will be impossible to correct the position of embedded elements and the accuracy of the shape of an already cast bowl. It is possible to prevent the movement of embedded elements during concrete placement by providing the necessary fastening rigidity.

Formwork installation is a very responsible operation. To make a pool with your own hands, it is necessary to ensure the desired geometry of the bowl, the strength of the elements and the specified accuracy of the dimensions of the formwork in order to avoid bulging of concrete masses under hydrostatic pressure. Reinforced concrete bowls of pools are made using reusable (unified metal, plywood) and disposable (wooden) formwork. When making roundings, steps and other complex elements, one-time formwork is used. This is due to the fact that the shape of the bowls near concrete pools is usually non-standard (private sector). The bottom of these bowls happens with steps, "broken".

Using standard formwork, it is not always possible to provide such forms with your own hands. In addition, using a wooden disposable formwork, it is necessary to spend more leveling mixtures. This is explained by the lower accuracy in the manufacture of formwork at the construction site in comparison with factory production. Because of this, it is better to use a unified reusable formwork for straight sections. Formwork type has great importance, since the number of materials for leveling the surface of the bowl depends on this.

Pit reinforcement

During the work on reinforcing the pool, all niches and strobes necessary for filtering and sewerage are laid.

The installation of reinforcement is started after an underlying layer of crushed stone, sand, gravel (from 100 to 200 mm) and a sand-cement screed (30 mm) is arranged at the bottom of the pit. A concrete slab is not reinforced with steel mesh unless the excavation pit is dug on an embankment or in dense earth. Otherwise, use a steel mesh with a mesh size of 150 x 150 mm and reinforcement with a diameter of 6.3 mm. If the pool uses a bottom outlet for draining water or as a suction element for filtration, it is necessary to create technological channels in the main plate in accordance with the drawings. Be sure to observe the slope of the slab or the exact horizontalness of the plane, since any unevenness will appear after filling the pool with water. The edge of the pool will not be parallel to the water level.

To make a pool with your own hands, the most common method is the construction of tongue-and-groove walls, consisting of wooden or metal vertical elements. The tongue-and-groove walls strengthen the soil, preventing it from crumbling, thanks to which the bath can be deepened lower than the base of the foundation.

For strengthening, reinforcement of a periodic profile is used. The cell pitch and reinforcement section are determined at the design stage. Most often, rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm are used for horizontal and vertical reinforcement. Horizontal rods have a pitch of 3-60 cm, and vertical 15-30 cm.

It is unacceptable to use electric welding, as this violates the microstructure of the metal, carbon burns out, and during operation, corrosion is observed at the welding points. Reinforcing volumetric frame for an outdoor pool is assembled on a concrete substrate. Closed structures located on the ground floor are installed on special supporting structures. This process is complex, it is easier to lay pipelines, place equipment, organize control, preventive and repair work.

Rebar processing

The reinforcement is tied with steel wire. For the installation of embedded parts, “windows” are left. Welded frames are not used: strong internal stresses can occur in reinforced concrete. Reinforcement outlets are made according to the outline of the bottom plate to fix the wall frame. The bottom formwork is made of waterproof laminated plywood or edged boards.

The fittings must be treated with a special anti-corrosion compound that ensures the durability of the structure. Polymer paints are usually used. Standard hot-rolled rebar has a layer of iron scale on the surface, mechanical and physical properties which are different from the reinforcing material. The scale is quite hard, but brittle.

The connection between it and the base metal has a low strength, therefore, when exposed to oxidative reactions, the scale exfoliates from the base metal. The reinforcement is coated with a polymer, which will create an additional film to protect the metal from corrosion. When applying paint in one layer, there is a high probability of corrosion, since the solvent, evaporating, leaves microscopic unpainted zones on the metal. Double staining is produced for higher reliability. When corrosion resistance is required the highest level, polymer mastics or multi-layer staining are used. To create, use special clamps. They ensure the exact position of the frames and maintaining the design thickness of the protective layer, which prevents corrosion of the reinforcing steel.

Concrete walls are erected in the same sequence. Rectangular pools are concreted using inventory metal formwork, curved sections are arranged using plywood circles and boards. The stability of the formwork is guaranteed by metal or wooden retaining elements.

Pool concreting

Concreting of the bottom of the pool bowl and walls is carried out in stages.

To build a reinforced concrete pool using traditional technology, the walls and bottom of the bowl are concreted in stages, while the construction must be very High Quality. This concerns not only the data of strength, water tightness and stability, but also affects the geometry of the pool. The sides should be ideally even, the slope of the bottom plate to ensure complete drainage of water.

For casting, bowls are used in strength not lower than class B15 and in water resistance not lower than grade W4. For a mixture that is used in the construction of outdoor pools, a brand for frost resistance F100-F150 is chosen. In this case, the design will be able to withstand from 100 to 150 freezing cycles. Concrete must be waterproof, durable and ductile.

The density of concrete provides both a strict dosing of the amount of water that is used when mixing cement, and its high-quality compaction. But the lack of liquid prevents monolithic work, so it is necessary to add plasticizers to the mixture, which have waterproofing properties.

There are two ways to make pool concreting: continuous pouring and casting in two steps. In the first case, a monolithic bowl is obtained, it is made in one step. The next layer of concrete sets with the previous one without "cold joints". This is the most reliable method of concreting, but involves the use of advanced technology in construction: truck-mounted concrete pumps and mixer trucks.

It happens that during the casting of the pool bowl it is not possible to create a non-stop supply and acceptance of concrete. In this case, the technology "in two stages" is used. It is carried out using a key that ensures the tightness of the bowl at the junction of hardened and new concrete (“cold joint”). First, the bottom is concreted, and then the sides. At the junctions of freshly laid and hardened concrete, a dowel is preliminarily laid, then concreting is carried out. Thanks to the properties of the cord (key), the tightness of the joints is ensured. When lowered into water, its volume increases, all gaps overlap, and water does not seep through.

Monolithic work is carried out at a positive temperature of at least five degrees, regardless of the technology used. Freshly laid concrete is protected from direct sunlight and moistened.

Construction waterproofing

The pool is a complex structure, where the formation of cracks in concrete is not excluded. For this reason, an elastic waterproofing coating is applied to the surface of the bowl. For this, the inner surface is impregnated with a special solution. The shells found at the end of concreting are covered with special putties and impregnations, which ensure the tightness of the bowl. Pre-treat the surface with a solution to open the pores of the concrete surface. It is possible to improve the penetration of impregnating liquids into the depths with the help of solutions of mineral acids.

In general, internal waterproofing is determined by finishing materials. If PVC film is used as a finishing material, labor-intensive waterproofing work will not be required. The base for mosaic or ceramics is prepared very carefully. First, minor errors and defects are corrected with plaster or repair composition. For better adhesion of the plaster layer, a pre-adhesive composition is applied to the concrete. Plastering is carried out on a grid, which is fixed to the concrete surface with dowels. This ensures the stability of the waterproofing, finishing and leveling layers in relation to dynamic loads. Deviation from the horizontal and vertical is controlled by metal rack beacons.

Critical areas are finished with alternative waterproofing. The joints of the bottom and walls must be additionally pasted over with sealing tapes. Required condition when building a pool of concrete, lined with ceramic tiles or mosaics, this is a test for water tightness. When concrete pools are built, a water leak test is carried out after the surfaces of the concrete pool are made and leveled. To do this, the pool is filled with water and kept for ten days. After plastering, embedded elements are installed. In order to seal the frames, special cords or expanding concrete are used. Upon completion of the waterproofing measures, the bowl is tested. After pouring water into it, the state of the pool is monitored for three days. If there are no leaks and the tightness is confirmed, the pool is drained, backfilled and the structure is finished.

Rice. 1. If on suburban area there is a swimming pool summer rest becomes brighter. And if the cottage also has a steam room, then this is completely wonderful. What could be better than cool water after a steam room? It seems that building a swimming pool is a very difficult task that only specialists can handle. Of course, one pool is different from another. It can have filters, lights, etc. But it is quite possible to build the simplest concrete pool with your own hands. It will take only 2-3 assistants to help dig a pit, mix concrete and pour it into the formwork.

Figure 1. Making a concrete pool is not as difficult as it seems, all you need is the necessary materials and a few helpers.

Construction stages

Such a construction can be divided into the following stages:

1. Site selection and marking.
2. Digging a pit.
3. Drainage equipment for water.
4. Formwork installation.
5. Preparation and pouring of concrete mix.
6. Finish lining.

When choosing a place, it should be noted that the bowl of the reservoir should not be adjacent to the foundation of the house. Should not be planted next to it. big trees, which with their roots can damage the structure. It is best if any trees grow at a distance from the reservoir. In this case, you do not have to remove fallen leaves from the bowl.

Figure 2. Stages of construction of a concrete pool.

The pool should be made in such a way that you can swim freely in it. The dimensions of the average bowl are 6:3 m. When choosing the size, it should be taken into account that a pool that is too small is inconvenient for use, and water is drawn and drained from a large one for a long time.

If the family has small children, very often some place in the concrete bowl is made much smaller than the rest of the pool. Or, for children, a special small "process" is built on the side of the main bowl. But keep in mind that children must be supervised so that they do not move into a deep pool.

When you have decided on a place, you can start digging a pit. The depth of the pool is best done a little more than human height. Then it will be possible to dive into it without fear of hitting your head on the bottom. The pit can be dug by hand, or you can use a mini excavator if possible. The pit must be dug exactly according to the markup so that the pool has an even shape. It can be round, rectangular, square or any other. It all depends on your imagination. But it must be taken into account that the presence sharp corners makes it difficult to clean the bowl.

After the pit is dug, you need to take care of the drain into which it will drain dirty water from the pool when you want to change it. Change the water at different intervals. Depending on the time of year. There are special preparations that prevent the formation of microorganisms in the water. They can be added to water. But still, you will have to update the water in the concrete bowl from time to time. To do this, equip the drain.

Building a swimming pool with your own hands the simplest drain often made from a metal barrel, in the walls of which holes are punched. Holes can be punched with a chisel. The barrel is dug into the ground at one end of the bottom of the pool.

It should be below the bottom. A pipe made of metal or plastic is immersed in the barrel. The barrel itself is filled with large boulders to the very top. When concreting the bottom of the bowl, the pipe must be brought to the surface and a drain hole made in this place. The diameter of the hole must be such that it can be hammered into plastic bottle with water (1.5 l). The bottle will act as a cork. The bottom of the pool should have a slight slope towards the drain hole.

Rice. 2. The formwork is installed along the walls of the pit. It is made from boards, plywood, drywall or any other suitable material. Inside the formwork, a power frame is constructed. To do this, you can use any scrap metal. The walls of the formwork are laid with polyethylene so that when the concrete dries, moisture does not go into the soil. Crushed stone is poured at the bottom of the pit and a metal mesh is placed. When installing the formwork, it should be taken into account that the walls of the bowl are best raised above the ground by 50-70 cm.

The concrete solution is prepared at the rate of 1 part of cement, grade not lower than M 400, 3 parts of washed coarse sand and 5 parts of crushed stone. Liquid glass must be added to the solution. To pour a concrete bowl 6X3 meters deep 2m 30 cm, 15 bottles of liquid glass (0.5 liters each) are required. Prepare the solution in such an amount that you can immediately fill the entire bowl. This is easier to do if you use a small concrete mixer. When pouring, you need to ensure that the solution is well distributed between the bars of the power frame and voids do not form. The use of a vibrator is recommended. If it is not there, then the solution is repeatedly pierced with a bayonet shovel, which contributes to its better compaction. The bottom of the pool is poured along with the walls.

The solution should dry for 4-6 weeks. If it is hot at this time, cover the concrete with a damp cloth. And if the weather is rainy, you need to protect it from rain by laying polyethylene.

After the concrete becomes strong, you can proceed to the finishing cladding. It depends on how beautiful your building will look. You can use ready-made tiles specially designed for lining the walls of pools. And you can use other material.

A good and inexpensive material for finishing is the waste of marble production. Such waste can be bought very cheaply at a marble processing plant. Shards of marble tiles are placed on a cement mortar with the addition of liquid glass. The solution is prepared from 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sifted sand.

lovers water procedures sooner or later they come to the idea of ​​​​building their own pool on a summer cottage or a suburban area. There are a lot of options for its arrangement, and there are inflatable and frame pools on sale, which are inexpensive and very quickly mounted. If the main requirement for the pool is durability, strength and ability to withstand frost, temperature changes and mechanical damage, it is better to opt for concrete bowl. You won’t be able to buy a ready-made one, so you have to get confused and fill in a pool of a certain shape. This can be done by resorting to the services of specialists, or you can do it on your own - although the process is laborious, it is quite feasible with some skills, and the savings are significant. So, what steps does the construction of a concrete pool consist of and what materials can be used to finish the walls and bottom of the pool? We study the intricacies of the process and evaluate our own strengths to decide whether it will be possible to do all the work with your own hands, or whether you will need at least partial help from professionals.

Before proceeding with the arrangement of a stationary concrete pool, once again make sure that it is the best option, and it fully meets the requirements of the family and the frequency of rest by the water:

No. 1. Advantages and disadvantages of a concrete pool

Owners of cottages and suburban areas opt for concrete pools due to their numerous benefits:

• durability. The design will last at least 25 years, and during this time about a dozen inflatable pools and 3-4 frame pools will become unusable. The benefit is there;
• aesthetics. To finish the walls and bottom, you can choose a material of any color, and tiles or mosaics will last a long time;
• Possibility to build a swimming pool any size and shape;
• comfort.

The main disadvantages are the cost of arrangement and the complexity of the process. In addition, the functionality and durability of the pool will largely depend on a properly drawn up project, the choice of finishing materials and the quality of all technological processes.

No. 2. Do I need a permit to build a concrete pool?

In most cases, you can do without agreement With public services, but if the construction of a large-scale structure is planned, it is better to formalize it accordingly in the BTI, otherwise the pool will not be in the certificate of ownership later. In the future, an already constructed facility may be legalized, but it is easier and cheaper to coordinate everything in advance.

If a pool with a depth of more than 2.2 m, a length of more than 4 m and a width of more than 2.2 m is being constructed, which will be equipped with a starting bollard or will be used for diving from the side, then permission of the Ministry of Emergency Situations and consumer supervision. In cases where the pool has a decent depth and is equipped diving tower, it will be necessary to approve the project in sports authorities, and entrust the construction to specialists, but it is understandable - it is impossible to build such a structure on your own. It is not difficult to build a small pool for family use on your own, and you do not need to draw up any documents.

Number 3. Preparatory work and design

The first stage on the way to the construction of a concrete pool is the creation of a project and thinking through all the technical details of the future facility. It is important to immediately determine the size and shape of the structure: these parameters directly depend on what place is allocated for the construction, and how many people will swim in the pool. For a comfortable stay, a pool 1.5 m deep and 5.5 m long is quite suitable, but in the case of arranging a jumping tower, the depth of the bowl should be at least 2.5 m. Do not forget to consider that there should be room around the pool for normal access to him or for arrangement. In addition, it is necessary to provide a place for installing all the necessary equipment.

It is not recommended to place the pool too close to the pool so that the shade does not interfere with the natural heating of the water. Under the crowns of trees, the structure should also not be erected in order to facilitate future maintenance of the pool.

To create the correct pool project it is necessary to know the features of soils, the level of groundwater, and also take into account the load on the walls and bottom of the pool, which determines their thickness. It is worth taking into account the proximity of finding neighboring ones, as well as the depth of underground utilities, the distance to the points of supply and discharge of water, and many other points. If you plan to build a more or less large pool, it is better to consult with specialists or even order the design of the future pool from them.

At the preparatory stage it is advisable to decide on the budget, choose the facing material for the walls, and also think about purchasing a filtration system, an electric heater, a chlorine generator, arranging stairs, a canopy and lighting. Also at this stage, consider water exchange system, which can be:

No. 5. Arrangement of a sand cushion and waterproofing

The gravel-sand cushion provides uniform load distribution and high-quality concrete pouring. To create a reliable foundation under the concrete bowl of the pool, first pour layer of sand 20-25 cm thick, and preferably all 30 cm, and carefully compact it. Then they pour rubble layer with a thickness of 10-20 cm and a fraction size of 20 * 40 mm, it is also carefully rammed. Important when backfilling and tamping do not break the bottom angle. If desired, between a layer of sand and can be used, which will serve to further strengthen the structure.

Next stage - creating a concrete base. To do this, use ready-made concrete, which is delivered to the site by a special mixer, or home-made. Since it will take a lot, it is better to use. For footing, you can use. You can independently prepare a suitable concrete composition at the rate of 325 kg, 625 kg of sand, 1250 kg of crushed stone and 170 liters of water per 1 m 3. Thickness - 10-15 cm, and the concrete base should be 2-5 cm larger from each edge of the future concrete bowl. If the level of the concrete base is below the groundwater level, then you will have to additionally equip drainage, for which a trench 25-50 cm wide is dug around the perimeter and covered with coarse gravel.

On top of the concrete arrange a layer waterproofing, for which it is suitable (lay with an overlap of 15-20 cm), bitumen, or PVC membrane. should go 25-30 cm onto the walls. A cement-sand screed is laid on top of the waterproofing.

No. 6. Reinforcement and arrangement of formwork

In fact, the construction of a concrete pool basin is the creation of a typical reinforced concrete structure, consisting of reinforcing metal and concrete. For reinforcement choose ribbed steel bar with a section of 8-14 mm, to form an oval bowl, you can use a rod with a diameter of 10 mm, which is sold in coils and has no length limit. A mesh of reinforcement is equipped with cells of 20 * 20 cm. Reinforcement is carried out in two tiers, it is desirable to put fragments under the bars of the bottom of the bowl so that when pouring concrete they remain in the thickness of the solution. Do not forget to make rebar releases for attaching the wall frame.

Reinforcing frame of walls constructed in exactly the same way as the bottom. When assembling the frame, it is important not to forget to leave windows for placing embedded parts of pool equipment. To fill the walls you need formwork, defining the shape of the bowl. It is most convenient to make moisture resistant or laminated plywood- the material bends well and will allow you to create any shape of the pool. An alternative is a unified metal formwork. Between themselves, the individual elements of the formwork are connected with screws, metal corners or. The internal struts and external supports are fastened carefully, since the weight of the concrete is significant, the distance between them is about 50 cm.

No. 7. Features of pouring concrete

Since water will constantly affect the bowl of a concrete pool, the choice of concrete is especially carefully approached. He must withstand exposure to water, be frost-resistant and very durable. Suitable concrete grade B25 and higher in strength, W6 and higher in water resistance and F100-150 in frost resistance.

Concreting of the pool bowl is carried out in one of the following ways:

• continuous pouring;
• casting in two stages.

Continuous Fill allows you to get a monolithic bowl - this is a big plus. But to implement the idea, you will need the coordinated work of several pieces of equipment, including a concrete mixer truck and a concrete pump truck.

Most commonly used pouring concrete in two stages: first make the bottom, then the walls of the bowl. Most dangerous place in this case, a junction through which water can flow. To avoid such consequences, a self-expanding cord with a cross section of 2.5-3.5 cm is used. When immersed in water, such a cord increases significantly in volume and closes all the cracks. During the hardening of concrete, it is better to periodically moisten it with water.

Do not forget that for embedded elements it is necessary to equip windows and make formwork. The entrance and other elements are attached to the frame with wires, otherwise they can be shifted when pouring concrete. If the project involves the arrangement of a smooth entry into the water in the form steps, then they proceed to their arrangement after the concrete thicket is ready. The principle is the same: installation of plywood formwork and.

No. 8. Leveling and waterproofing

After the concrete has hardened, it is possible to remove the formwork and carry out ironing with cement milk, for which 3-4 handfuls of cement are dissolved in a bucket of water. The solution is constantly shaken and applied to the surface with a plaster brush. Irregularities must be leveled using, which is carried out in one of the following ways:

• grid plaster. In this case, it uses a conventional sand-cement, which, in order to provide better adhesion and strength to a pre-attached steel plaster mesh;
• applying plaster to glue. The method involves the treatment of the concrete surface with special impregnations with deep penetration. Due to the components that are part of their composition, adhesion to the applied layer of plaster, which includes an adhesive polymer, increases.

After plastering is carried out grinding and cleaning. Then it executes waterproofing what can be used for:

• acrylic and epoxy resins, which after application during solidification form a continuous polymer film;
• penetrating waterproofing. Such products are distinguished by the presence in the composition of active chemical components that penetrate into the mass of concrete, react with calcium hydroxide, forming insoluble compounds based on it. They fill capillaries and all microcracks up to 0.4 mm in size;
• two-component cement-polymer compositions used for waterproofing large pools. They include cement and elasticizers, so even cracks up to 1 mm can be isolated with their help;
• sealing tapes can be used to seal the joints of walls and bottom.

When performing waterproofing, special attention is paid to the junction of the walls and the bottom, the seams that appeared during the pouring of concrete, recesses, cracks and places where communications enter. The choice of waterproofing method largely depends on the final finishing material: it must be ideal for tiles and mosaics, and when using PVC film, all waterproofing work is reduced to a minimum.

No. 9. Pool of concrete rings and blocks

To simplify their lives, many summer residents go to tricks. Not wanting to deal with formwork and concrete mortar, some use precast concrete blocks. In this case, the installation process is reduced to pouring a flat base and mounting the walls of the blocks. They are fastened with mortar, and every third row is reinforced with a mesh. After all this, it remains to carry out waterproofing and finishing.

Another option is to use ready-made, designed for arranging wells or sewers. It is mounted on a layer of cement mortar, then, as usual: waterproofing and finishing.

No. 10. Pool wall decoration

Tiles are laid for special adhesives. If the bottom and walls are decorated with the same tiles, then you can start finishing from the bottom. When the drain is on one side, the tiles can be laid in rows, taking into account the angle of inclination. If the drain is located in the center of the bowl, then the installation is carried out at the corners of the triangle. To do this, first determine the lines leading from the corners of the pool to the opposite corners of the drain hole. The bottom will turn out to be divided into four conditional triangles, along which the tiles are installed in order to better take into account the slope. Tiles begin to be laid from the wall row, then the beacon row is laid perpendicular to it, and then they proceed to the installation of horizontal rows.

On the pool walls tiles, checking the level and making the same seams. Tiles are laid in horizontal rows, and if symmetry is especially important, then they start from the middle of the row. The only difference is that the seams must be made thicker so that the water pressure does not cause cracks on the tile. The seams are treated with frost-resistant and moisture-resistant.

Mosaic finish

Installing a mosaic is a lot like installing tiles. It's wear resistant durable material, characterized by excellent appearance. The best choice –glass mosaic, which absolutely does not absorb moisture and is distinguished by record durability, however, such material is not cheap. A more affordable solution is ceramic mosaic. With the help of mosaics, you can create interesting ornaments, lay out panels, and some combine tiles with mosaics to reduce the cost.

The thickness of the film, as a rule, reaches 1-1.5 mm, it consists of 4 layers, one of which must be a durable synthetic material, such as polyester or Kevlar. At the moment, for the arrangement of pools, the following types of films are used:

It is important to use under the film. The material itself is mounted with an overlap, fixed by hot welding, the seams are sealed with hot PVC. This is followed by stretching the coating along the walls of the bowl and welding it to a pre-mounted mounting strip. The final stage is the welding of the film in the inner corners of the pool. Everything is clearly described in sight.

No. 11. What else to consider?

Consider the need canopy: it will not only protect the pool from some pollution, but also allow you to keep the warmth of the water. You can choose a ready-made folding canopy - these are not very expensive designs that are difficult to create on your own. An alternative is the construction of a metal frame and installation, in the end you get something like.

After the erection of the concrete bowl and its cladding, all necessary equipment for filtering and heating water. The hydraulic arrangement of the pool is similar to, but the drain is somewhat different. It is equipped with a damper and a multi-turn shut-off valve: when water is released, it will first be necessary to move the damper, and then open the valve, the siphon on the drain is not equipped, the outlet pipe must be at least 60 mm in diameter. As for water heating, they usually use a boiler, sometimes to save money - special for swimming pools. Also think about the pool.