"Family", muses and beauty. What you need to know about Ricardo Tisci's first collection for Burberry I live more for music than for fashion. Art and music leave the most vivid impressions in life, and it does not matter at all what your social status is, and
The news of the new appointment at Burberry shocked the fashion community and excited all his sympathizers. Such a move was not expected from the management of the brand. Riccardo Tisci, former creative director of Givenchy, a lover of decadent luxury, eccentric retro-futurism and dark sensuality and Burberry, a brand that is used to be associated with minimalist classics or, more recently, with democratic and relaxed athleisure. What can this "hot" Italian bring to a brand with a "cold" and "functional" British aesthetic? If you think about it, not so much. It is worth digging a little deeper, as it becomes clear: the appointment of Ricardo Tisci to this position is quite natural.
Englishman Christopher Bailey, who announced his departure from Burberry in October 2017, has been in office for 16 years. He is considered (and rightfully so!) the person who breathed new life into the brand. Under him, the revenue beat all conceivable and unthinkable forecasts, and the brand, which back in the 90s had an image of a conservative and focused mainly on middle-aged and older people, noticeably rejuvenated. First of all, thanks to the course towards digitalization - Bailey, a talented visionary, was one of the first to take it, a few years before the era of the social media craze. In particular, back in the 2000s, Bailey launched The Art Of Trench project, a site about the history of the legendary trench coat, where anyone could upload their photo in the iconic Burberry raincoat. This was in 2009 and there was a whole year before the advent of Instagram.
Among other "digital" achievements of the Briton are online broadcasts of shows, during which anyone could buy the thing they liked; cooperation with Snapchat, Google and Apple Music and a serious "modernization" of branded boutiques - for example, there are now screens that display all the information about the things presented in the store.
In addition, Bailey rejuvenated Burberry advertising campaigns. In his era, millennial idols and then Generation Z began shooting for the fashion house and its beauty division: Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Cara Delevingne, Adwoa Aboah, Jude Law's daughter Iris and Pierce Brosnan's son Dylan.
Gradually, although not immediately, Burberry clothes also began to “modernize”. If, for example, in the SS2014 season, Bailey focuses on conventional femininity, graphic cut and minimalistic, though not boring, classics, then already in the SS2017 collection, a movement towards fashionable asexual androgyny is noticeable, the creative director’s craving for an asymmetric cut in the spirit of deconstructivism.
Further more. In the summer of 2017, the brand launched a collaboration with Gosha Rubchinsky, a designer whose name in the name of a brand or collection today adds a hundred points to relevance. Sportswear with the legendary Burberry plaid appeared at Rubchinsky twice - in the SS18 and FW18-19 seasons. Thus, Bailey not only once again proved his ability to “keep his nose to the wind”, but also ironically beat one of the stereotypes associated with Burberry: in his native Britain, things from this brand are often associated with the style of “chavs”, rude guys from the outskirts, the nearest relatives of our "gopniks". Around the 80s, these "brave" guys were actively wearing baseball caps and t-shirts in the same check - often fake, but who cares? By allowing Gaucher, the gop style's main apologist, to combine these things with his aesthetic, Bailey returned them to fashionable "legitimacy".
The designer himself, around the same time, also began to gravitate toward the trendy athleisure style. No more tight skirts and "office" knitted dresses. Their place was taken by windbreakers, wide sports trousers, oversized coats (but, of course, plaid!) and stretched, “aged” cardigans.
Bailey dedicated his latest collection for Burberry (SS18) to LGBT youth and his own youth, which fell on the 80s and 90s - decades that, by no coincidence, modern designers are quoting more and more often. Models walked the runway in puffy vests, long sleeves and rainbow-print ponchos. In addition, the collection contains things in acid shades, as if painted with graffiti, and “wild” looks, made up, for example, of oversized sweaters and tiered long skirts.
In a word, Bailey managed to make the brand entrusted to him in a good way crazy, reckless and, as a result, really fashionable, and not just by the fact of belonging to the fashion industry. The appointment of Ricardo Tisci in light of this is a quite reasonable step, perfectly fitting into the strategy to rejuvenate yesterday's “brand for respectable pensioners”.
Italian Tishi has been in the fashion industry for almost 30 years. In the 90s and the first half of the 2000s, he collaborated with Missoni, Antonio Berardi, Puma, and also worked on his own brand of the same name. But only after coming to the post of creative director of Givenchy in 2005, the young designer became truly famous. According to rumors (which are most likely true) at an interview with the bosses of the fashion house, he was the only candidate who did not mention the name of Audrey Hepburn, with whom, first of all, the style of classic Givenchy is associated. And that is why the leadership opted for a candidate unknown to anyone in those years. The Parisian fashion house was in desperate need of a man who could make his clothes desirable for the younger generation - just like the old British brand Burberry needed in 2001.
Quiet lived up to expectations. He, like Bailey, managed to completely modernize the brand under his control. Some even think it's too much. So, Hubert de Givenchy himself said in an interview with the online publication Women's Wear Daily that Ricardo's works for Givenchy "do not feel the spirit of the house." The Italian retorted, answering that he, like the legendary founder, has “his own Audreys” - model Mariacarla Boscono, artist and performanceist Marina Abramovic, transgender model Lea T. and rock diva Courtney Love. This is not the whole list of Tisha's muses. Ciara, Rihanna, Beyoncé and Kim Kardashian became Givenchy's friends during his time at the helm. The latter even married Kanye West (another great friend of the brand) in a Givenchy dress by Ricardo Tisci.
“Kim for me is the epitome of a modern woman,” says the designer. She is the epitome of today's society. If someone doesn't like it, that's their problem."
But, of course, it's not just about the ability to gather a pool of "your" people around you. Givenchy clothes also became different with the advent of Tisha. For 12 years of work in the fashion house, he managed to establish himself as a lover of solemn, but not gloomy "Gothic", baroque redundant finishes, black color and architectural cut.
The Italian loves experiments bordering on outrageous. He released models in masks and with pierced makeup on the catwalk, created fantastic avant-garde headdresses and costumes similar to Martian vestments.
It is unlikely that the modest Audrey would have dared to try on any of this, but the new generation of fashionistas undoubtedly liked this aesthetic. The brand's revenue increased exponentially, and the FW15 collection was almost completely sold out in the first few days after the start of sales. The brand was also loved by top stars like Madonna and Julia Roberts. In 2012, Tisci canceled couture shows, saying they were out of date and inappropriate, and that he prefers to show haute couture on the stars who wear them on the red carpet. True, in 2016 the couture line resumed: Tisci combined the show with the men's show and released a lookbook. And then he invited industry professionals and clients to the atelier so that they could see with their own eyes how made-to-measure outfits are created.
Sensitive, emotional Tisci called the inner circle of employees, models and friends of the house nothing more than a family - and this was completely sincere and serious. The family also became new faces that he discovered, and celebrities for whom he sewed dresses and stage costumes. Even couture shows were quickly abandoned by the designer in favor of more intimate presentations, where he himself interacted with clients: “I dress the ones I like,” he told The New York Times. Tisci has always loved "women of color" - long before brands begin to fall for insufficient racial diversity at shows, he released young Joan Smalls (whose relatives he even went to Puerto Rico to meet) and Lakshmi Menon, and in 2010 was the first designer to invite a Brazilian transgender model, Leia T, to star in a campaign. For all her popularity, Tisci always carried the idea of unconventional beauty, his heroine was never someone who could be called, for example, “pretty”. He released models on the catwalk with faces covered with rhinestones or black patterns, or even plates imitating mustaches and beards. Among the faces of the brand were the singers Beyoncé and Erica Badu, and among the most unexpected heroines of the campaigns - Julia Roberts and Donatella Versace, a close friend of the designer and, according to rumors, his next employer.Tisci's approach to women's dress is unique: while the amount of decorativeness and intricate cuts can be pushed to the limit, his outfits are always surprisingly cohesive and flattering to the female figure (surprisingly, almost any) - many critics suggest that such coverage originates from the designer's nepotism and from the fact that he grew up surrounded by nine women of different ages. This talent, the mastery of styling, lush romance, famous friends (who are friends, of course, with Tisci, and not with Givenchy and will follow him further) and the fact that he is, after all, Italian - all this today looks just like ready gift set for Versace. Moreover - let's make a bold assumption - it is likely that Donatella herself is already very, very tired.
It is interesting that when Tisci was offered to manage the men's collection as well (this was in 2008, and for several years before that, the Givenchy men's collection had been assembled by the existing team), Ricardo hesitated. At the same time, he quickly became one of the most influential men's designers. He managed not only to rethink the elegance of suits (which began to regularly hit the red carpet along with dresses), but also to make convincing luxury streetwear: sweatshirts with prints, bright graphic sweaters, T-shirts, sneakers - the designer himself prefers street style in life, and, perhaps, , which is why his works are so organic. As a result, on the male field, he managed to create an aesthetic no less striking than on the female one - and attract a separate army of fans, from the famous (with a spread from Jared Leto to Jay Z and Kanye) to teenagers who saved up for printed slip-ons or for the NikeLab x collaboration. Riccardo Tisci.
Riccardo Tisci (Riccardo Tisci)- a famous designer from Italy, who holds the position of creative director of the famous Fashion House in France.
Brief biography of the designer Riccardo Tisci (Riccardo Tisci)
The future designer was born in Italy, in the town of Taranto. There were many children in his family - 8 girls and 1 boy, Ricardo. Their dad died early when the boy was only 4 years old. Ricardo's mother raised the children alone. These were difficult times for their large family, they lived very poorly, they had to eat once a whole day. Because of this, the mother was once almost deprived of parental rights. Ricardo had to wear out the clothes his sisters wore. But Elmerida - the mother of the designer - must be given credit, as she always tried to come up with some kind of entertainment for the children, compensating for the lack of money for school trips and other travels. Ricardo had the greatest wealth - the love of nine of his dearest women, who took care of him and shrouded him in attention.
But you can’t bury talent anywhere, nature endowed Ricardo with the ability to draw. In addition, the designer had a deep versatile inner world, because he grew up on fairy tales, legends and myths of his people. All this gave rise to a huge number of original and unusual images in his head.
In the 90s, Ricardo Tisci was lucky enough to win an internship at the company faro located in the town of Como. Then the designer worked in such firms as Paloma Picasso and . At the age of 17, the young man went to study in the capital of Great Britain, where he graduated from the prestigious Central Saint Martins Academy. Later, in his interviews, the designer recalled how he had to survive in London. And in general, he got into this educational institution quite by accident, having seen an advertisement in one of the free newspapers about enrolling in this college during a trip to the subway. Ricardo clung to this announcement as the last hope of realizing his old dream. The young man easily and very successfully passed the entrance exams, and was also awarded a state grant, which made it possible to complete a course of study for three years.
In 1999, designer Tishi graduated from this educational institution. Ricardo's mother was also invited to the graduation show, who left Italy for the first time and flew by plane. Since that time, my mother has been present at every show of her talented son. This performance was widely covered in the British fashion edition of Vogue for 12 pages. Each product of the collection was made by the hands of the designer, as well as his sisters and mother. I must say that this debut collection immediately had famous customers - Björk and Janet Jackson.
After showing the first collection, the designer was forced to return to Italy, where he collaborated with brands such as Ruffo Research and . While working at Ruffo Research, the designer's debut show was canceled in just a few weeks, as the company's owners announced a business reform. After such events, Ricardo left for India in search of himself, his vocation. In 2004, the young man returned to Milan, where he demonstrated his work to a well-known model Maria Carle Boscono. It was this woman who began to persuade the designer to show the collection, for this she even asked her model friends to take part in the show for free. This is how the world fashion society saw the first Riccardo Tisci collection for the Fall/Winter 2005-2006 season. A year later, the designer was offered the position of creative director at Givenchy, a well-known company, to which, of course, he agreed.
But for Ricardo, this work, the contract was not at all to improve his financial situation. He gave himself completely to her, spent a lot of time studying the archives of the Fashion House in order to develop his own unique style. His working day in the office began at 6 am, together with the cleaners, and ended well after midnight. One fine day, the owner and founder of the company found out about such a crazy rhythm Ricardo Hubert Givenchy and invited the designer to have breakfast in his mansion.
Thanks to Tisha, the Givenchy brand was again talked about, laudatory reviews from fashion critics rained down, respect and financial stability returned. Ricardo's Haute Couture collections were very popular. Madonna and the Jordanian Queen Rania became his clients. For Madonna, the designer was engaged not only in tailoring casual clothes, but also clothes for tours. And the designer completely changed the wardrobe of Queen Rania.
Since 2008, Ricardo Tisci has been creating clothes and accessories for the strong half of humanity, as well as the release of perfumes. In 2009, he decided to create an affordable clothing line called Givenchy Redux.
In 2011, in collaboration with the brand, an exclusive limited model of sneakers was released. In 2014, Ricardo signed a contract with the famous company for which he created a line of sneakers. Nike R.T.
To date, Ricardo Tisci is the title of one of the world's most famous designers. But fame, a large flow of money, success did not change his crazy craving for his favorite business. He still adores his homeland Italy, his sisters and mother. Often in his interviews, the designer calls himself a child who does not want to become an adult at all.
Video of the collaboration between the designer and Nike - an overview of the sneaker model:
Where to buy men's, women's clothing, shoes, accessories, perfumes by designer Riccardo Tisci (Riccardo Tisci), store addresses in Ukraine:
Designer's products can be purchased at Givenchy branded stores, as well as Nike. The addresses of branded stores of these companies in our country can be found on the official websites.
Designer Riccardo Tisci does not yet have an official website.
Riccardo Tisci is an Italian fashion designer who, since 2005, has been the head of the famous French house Givenchy. Among his close friends: Beyonce (Beyonce), Lady Gaga (Lady Gaga), Kanye West (Kanye West), Madonna (Madonna) and Courtney Love (Courtney Love). In the list of his muses: artist Marina Abramovic (Marina Abramovic) and top model Mariacarla Boscono (Mariacarla Boscono). Behind him are dozens of successful collections and several high-profile collaborations. Other interesting facts about Riccardo - in our review.
- Riccardo Tisci was born in 1974 in the Italian city of Taranto, which was founded by the inhabitants of Sparta as a city-state in the distant 706 BC. This area is known for numerous myths about mermaids and other fabulous and mystical characters. These mysterious motifs often form the basis of most of the designer's collections for Givenchy.
- In 1990, Riccardo won an internship with the textile company Faro in Como, which landed him a job at Missoni and Paloma Picasso, designing ornaments and designs for these renowned brands.
I live more for music than for the fashion world. Art and music leave the most vivid impressions in life, and it does not matter at all what your social status is and who you are. This is pure creativity.
- Riccardo got into the prestigious Central Saint Martins College of Art and Design Academy thanks to his mentor, designer Antonio Berardi. The young fashion designer managed to successfully pass the entrance exams, but he did not have money to visit the Academy. Willy Walters, director of the fashion course, insisted that the young man should not give up trying to start studying and apply to the state for a scholarship. Tisci subsequently won a grant that gave him a pass to the second year of a three-year study program at Central Saint Martins.
- On February 28, 2005, the entire fashion world was shocked by the unexpected news about the appointment of a young designer to the post of creative director of the French Givenchy House. Incredibly, Tisci was willing to turn down the offer as he wanted to focus entirely on his own brand and its development. Only because of the lack of money and the threat of selling the house to his mother, the fashion designer decided to take the proposed position.
Yes, I love goth. But I also love rave, and dancing until you drop. I understand Gothic not as depression, but as a gloomy beauty. I love the night. Because at night you can do cool things, like sex. Or go to parties, meet people there. Night is the time of sleep and the time of dreams.
- After showing Tisha's first collection for Givenchy Haute Couture, Queen Rania of Jordan called the office of the fashion house with a request to create a whole wardrobe for her. When the designer flew to London, the Queen greeted him fully dressed in Ricardo Tisci.
- A few months ago, Ricardo Tisci
The most anticipated debut of the coming month is, of course, the Riccardo Tisci collection for Burberry. For the designer, this is the first collection in the last 12 years that he does not create for Givenchy. And for Burberry, this is the first collection in 17 years that isn't designed by Christopher Bailey.
From the September show Riccardo Tisci expect nothing more than a sensation. First, because Tisci's appointment at Burberry is linked to an ambitious plan to radically revamp the brand, previously proposed by Marco Gobetti, the chief executive. Secondly, because Tisci has already managed to take several unexpected and decisive steps over the past few months: he changed the prim logo of the British brand to a bright one, announced the collaboration between Burberry and the queen of British punk Vivienne Westwood ... So, Tisci's first collection should be clear make it clear that the era of Christopher Bailey is over, and the new Burberry has nothing to do with it.
It is not the first time that Riccardo Tisci undertakes a radical redesign of the brand. In the 2000s, he reshaped the image of Givenchy, turning the French fashion house, famous for its couture collections, into a trendy and dynamic brand. We have to admit, however, that the situation with Burberry is quite different. As creative director, Tisci was replaced by Christopher Bailey, who, like himself, is an innovator, international media darling and celebrity whose departure is still a source of regret for many. Burberry, moreover, has always been a brand much more democratic and less niche than Givenchy, and over the years of its existence has become a popular symbol of British identity around the world. That is why the question is so acute whether the Italian Tisci, who has worked most of his life in Paris, will be able to win the favor of the brand's customers.
Marco Gobetti, who joined the company a year ago, aims to transform the brand from relatively democratic to exclusive. Gobetti plans to diversify Burberry products, launch new lines of accessories, and make extensive use of expensive materials (leather, for example). Not surprisingly, it was Riccardo Tisci who was invited to the post of creative director, with whom Gobetti, by the way, had already worked once: at Givenchy about ten years ago. Tisci, with his many years of experience in haute couture, knows how to create an aura of exclusivity and luxury like no one else: Riccardo Tisci's clothes at Givenchy unconditionally gained a reputation as a status symbol, and in just the first few years of his work at Givenchy, the number of couture collection clients increased from 5 to 29.
While Tisci has had a dazzling career in haute couture, his own background is humble: born in southern Italy to a working-class family. His father died when Riccardo was four years old, and nine children (the designer has eight sisters) were raised by their mother alone. Tisha had to work from the age of nine to pay for school, and instead of spending time with his peers, in his free time he was more willing to draw. As the designer admits, only after moving to London did he feel truly himself.
Tisci came to London when he was 17 years old, having received a scholarship from the College of St. Martin. London in the 1990s seemed to Tisci insanely exciting. He was fascinated by nightclubs, eccentric party-goers (he even saw the legendary Lee Bowery at one of them), and the extravagant shows of Alexander McQueen and John Galiano, which Tisci managed to infiltrate most of the time without an invitation. If in Italy Tisci worked part-time by distributing flyers of clubs, then in London he became a partygoer. He designed the outfits himself, altering things found in second-hand stores, and his most grandiose acquisition during his student years was a pair of Nike sneakers. Ironically, in the 2010s, he partnered with Nike to redesign the same Air Max 97s he once loved.
St. Martin's Tisci graduated brilliantly, and his graduate collection, inspired by the work of Fellini and Pasolini (and sewn by the designer's sisters), was, according to reviews, excellent. After graduating from the university, Tisci returned to Italy, where he worked with several brands. In 2004, after a long trip to India, he launched his own eponymous label, the very first collection of which attracted the management of Givenchy.
The French brand was just then looking for a replacement for Julian McDonald, the British designer who served as creative director after Alexander McQueen and John Galliano. Givenchy was not in the best position: sales remained low, and style rather inconsistent. But Tisha's debut collection - eclectic, original and modern - interested people from LVMH. Tisci's work for his independent brand, which the designer showed in an abandoned Milanese factory, combined elements of gothic and allusions to the work of Martin Margiela - the same mixture of romanticism and ironic refinement for which he is so appreciated today.
Ricardo Tisci, 2005
Surprisingly, Tisci was initially reluctant to accept the LVMH offer. He changed his mind because of the difficult financial situation in which his family was. “I didn’t want to agree at all,” the designer told Vogue magazine. I was about to decline their offer. But a week before the meeting with Givenchy, my mother called me and said: “I think I will sell our house, it’s hard for your sisters, they have children, they need money. And I'm moving to a nursing home." When I heard this, I felt like a complete failure ... And then I went to an interview in Paris, where they showed me a contract with an insane number of zeros ... It was a real divine salvation.
Over the first few seasons at Givenchy, Tisci managed to develop a recognizable style that clearly showed the influence of the goth subculture and Catholicism, techno and street fashion. In 2008, Tisci was entrusted with work on Givenchy men's collections. They were influenced by street style and, as critic Tim Blanks noted, "church austerity." Tisci, an Italian from the south, has always had a dramatic streak, and his screenings are sometimes theatrical, such as the September 11, 2015, New York screening at sunset to the sound of Ave Maria. It was directed by artist Marina Abramovic, a longtime friend and admirer of Tisha.
Riccardo Tisci after Givenchy Spring/Summer 2008 show.
An army of stellar fans appeared at Givenchy already in the late 2000s, among them was Kanye West, who was gaining popularity. By the way, it is Riccardo Tisci who is largely responsible for the emergence of a new style icon - Kim Kardashian, whom, despite the general skepticism in the fashion industry, he began to dress in the early 2010s at the request of West.
Tisci, with his talent for unexpected combinations - low and high, casual and strict - also became one of those who introduced the trend to sports style (remember his reverent attitude to Nike sneakers!). However, one of the most memorable designs by Riccardo Tisci during his collaboration with Givenchy remains a sweatshirt with a Rottweiler print - it seems that all stylish men managed to flaunt in such. We can confidently say that the retinue of famous fans will remain faithful to Tisha now: at least judging by the fact that Beyoncé recently wore his Burberry jumpsuit to her concert.