Bough mountain. Ridge is a big bitch. Pass: Shoulder Big Bitch.2011

27.10.2019

Pass: Shoulder Big Bitch.2011

We are a very friendly and athletic family! We really love the nature of our native land and, if possible, try to get out of the house to the mountains every weekend))))!!! A fairly easy pass for children and an interesting name. And what came out of it - see below !!!

There are three versions of the origin of the oronym Suka. The interpretation is derived from the Tatar "bitch" - "plow", the Bashkir "bitch" - "hill" and the Bashkir "suuk" - "cold". The third version seems to be the most probable. A curious observation is given by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: “... Russian residents from the village of Tyulyuk call the Suka Range, motivating this by the fact that there are very uncomfortable places for walking ...” I must say that this is true. Most of the ridge is a narrow rocky ridges on which now and then you have to climb.

View of Bolshaya SukU from Katavka village. Where did our journey to the pass begin?

From the point of view of the excursion, the road leading from the village of Katavka to the village of Sibirka, through the Bolshoi Suki pass, is interesting. Few other places in the Southern Urals have such a simple road to a height of a thousand meters. This is what we need with a 6 year old child !!!

Let's start with the fact that the ascent to the pass is picturesque in itself.

The name for the Russian ear is quite euphonious, if the emphasis is correctly placed. It is placed on the last syllable. The word "suki" in Bashkir means "peak", "ridge". It is possible that the origin is also connected with the word "syuyk" or "suuk" - "cold," cold ". It’s really always not hot at the top, and in the cold season it can be completely extreme. However, there is another version of the name, from the Turkic word "su" - water, where the second syllable indicates its negation. This option also reveals the features of this corner, where during the day with fire you can not find not only a stream, but also an overflowing spring.

This ridge is perfectly visible from the M5 highway in the area where this highway approaches the town of Bakal and the suburban village of Katavka. From Katavka begins the most convenient place for the assault. A well-trodden path goes up to the mountains from the village through the spruce taiga. Soon it soars up quite steeply and takes tourists to the saddle of the Bolshaya Suka ridge, to one of its most picturesque corners, where the remnant rocks are located. Among them, one is called the Bear Stone. The view from the top is simply breathtaking. You can see the city of Bakal with its mining developments, and the Shuyda ridge, the cities of Yuryuzan and Trekhgorny are distinguishable to the side.

If you cross the saddle and continue to walk along the same road, then after descending from the ridge it will lead to the famous “Boiling Key” at the source of the Malaya Satka River, and then to the no less famous fountain at the source of the Bolshaya Kalagaza River. There is a place for picnics and overnight stays, there begins the ascent to the neighboring mountain - Uvan. This mountain is sometimes called Malaya Suka.

The Bolshaya Suka Ridge stretches from the southwest to the northeast for 27 kilometers. Its highest sections are located just from the edges, they exceed 1100 meters. The highest point is 1195 meters. Outwardly, the relief resembles an uneven sheer wall made of gray-green bricks. This is because the slopes are covered with stone rivers - kurumniks. Their boulders are densely overgrown with green lichens, almost hiding the color of the rock. The stones are usually slippery and dancing underfoot, so it is more comfortable to climb where there are thickets of mosses between the stones, as well as relatively rare trees. Lonely spruces and birches grow among stone placers. Often found and larch.

In winter, the ascent is not easy due to deep, heavy snow, which also hides the gaps between the stones. But in early winter, on rocky outcrops, you can admire numerous bizarre icicles. They were formed from the fact that the rocks continue to give off the heat accumulated over the summer. The Bolshaya Suka Ridge is one of the favorite places of the rector of the Chechen State Pedagogical University Vladimir Sydyrin, who grew up in these parts.

Ridge Bolshaya Suka map:

View in a larger map

The Bolshaya Suka Ridge runs across the Chelyabinsk region, not far from the town of Bakal, stretches from SW to NE in the upper right bank of the river. Yuryuzan, its length is about 20 km, its height is over 1000 m. The most significant peaks from north to south: m. 1102 m, m. 1139.6 m, m. 1080 m, m. m. 1130 m, m. 1105 m, m. 1168 m, m. Peski (1054 m), m. Mal. Uval (1006.7 m).

There are four versions of the origin of the oronym Suka. The interpretation is derived from the Tatar "bitch" - "plow", the Bashkir "bitch" - "hill", "pointed peak" and the Bashkir "suuk" - "cold". According to another version - from the word "sukan" - "bow". That is, Suka is an onion ridge. Indeed, a lot of wild garlic, "bear onions" grow on the Suk. Yes, and on old maps the ridge is designated precisely as Sukan.

An interesting observation is made by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: “... Russian residents from the village of Tyulyuk call the Suka Range, motivating this by the fact that there are very uncomfortable places for walking ...” I must say that this is true. Most of the ridge is a narrow rocky ridges on which now and then you have to climb.

The Bolshaya Suka Ridge is replete with rocks, cliffs, ledges and steep drops. But in its northern part there is a vast tundra mountain plateau. Almost flat, offering a beautiful panoramic view of the nearby mountains.

The ridge is interesting as a weekend object. It is convenient to combine his visit with a visit to the Fountain at the source of the Malaya Satka River, as well as the Uvan, Nurgush and Zyuratkul ridges. From the point of view of the excursion, the road leading from the village of Katavka to the village of Sibirka, through the Bolshoy Suki shoulder pass, is interesting. It is also called the Siberian Pass. Few other places in the Southern Urals have such a simple road to a height of a thousand meters, with the possible exception of the road leading to the top of Mount Dunan-Sungan. But more on that in another article. Just a couple of kilometers along the road from Katavka and a little climb from the pass along the kurums, to the right or left.

It is worth noting that if you are interested in local history and ethnography, it will be very informative to communicate with the old inhabitants of the village of Katavka. The Katavian dialect is classified by philologists as a separate dialect.

And the self-name of the Katavians is shmaty. When I have to visit Katavka, I try to communicate with local grandparents with great pleasure. You will not hear such an interesting and original speech anywhere else!

You can get to Bolshaya Suka along the federal highway M5 "Ural", turning off the highway to the village of Katavka, which is located under the very ridge. I must say that the road itself on the pass comes almost to the kurums that run down the slopes of Bolshaya Suka. It is convenient to get to the southern tip of the ridge along the road from the city of Yuryuzan to the village of Tyulyuk, having reached the clearing where the village of Petropavlovka used to be, and from it along the old logging road and along the path up.

I climbed the Bolshaya Suka Ridge once. And our way to the ridge, as I understand now, was very non-standard.
Firstly, the conductor Ivan Susanin led us. So it was written on his T-shirt and he quite seriously claimed that his name was Vanya, and his last name was Susanin, and being a guide in the Ural taiga was his vocation. I hope you understand what feelings took possession of me when I, in company with our German financial director, with my beloved nephew and a 17-year-old German boy who came to practice in Russia and for whose safety his father instructed me to personally answer, approached to the shore of the stormy Zyuratkul for some reason and saw a rusty trough, which Ivan Susanin called a motor boat. However, the motor was.
Secondly, we had to melt down to the other side of the Zyuratkul in a rusted trough (well, yes, this was a boat with a motor, according to Ivan Susanin) in two shifts of 4 people across a very turbulent lake that day. In general, at that moment the waves seemed to me like the sea.
By the way, the trip turned out to be surprisingly simple. At first we walked along a beautiful forest path, along which frogs raced with us. Then the path went uphill, but we walked along it at a quick pace, not particularly bothering. And only the last 100 meters climbed a little over the stones in the dense forest. I looked around all the time and looked for traces of Baba Yaga, she definitely had to live in this windbreak.
And then an incredible space opened up.

Big Bitch Valeria Kuznetsova

“Better mountains can only be mountains that you have not yet visited.
Old, worn out? But it's true!
Mountains take your soul, heart, liver... You can't live without another dose of mountains. Mountains ... They are somewhere "...reign in the distance and insanely beautiful in themselves ...".
But if you really want to, you can find mountains very close to home (with Ufa). Real thousand people, with mountain taiga and gray tongues of kurums crashing into the taiga. With the ruins of outcrop rocks, the smell of rhododendron and crazy views of all five corners of the world. You will say that the world has four ends. I will say that there is a fifth just in case when everything interesting does not fit in four.

Such mountains, of course, are the Bolshaya Suka Range. Rocky, pointed, all bristling with peaks. And although the emphasis in the word “Bitch” is on the last syllable, sometimes when you move along the traverse of the ridge, no, no, and another native Russian word will break out either from your chest or from under your feet. Yes, and the echo, out of habit, will resoundly answer: mother, mother, mother ...
Good on the Bitch and close. Only 200 km from October Avenue of the city of Ufa. This circumstance allows you to drive to the "real mountains" in just a day and return back. What we regularly do.
We go to Suka only twice a year, in spring and autumn. Usually in autumn, at the end of September, you always run into snow. Therefore, this year we decided to go there early and everyone is happy - we caught good weather, wonderful views. And the next lucky ones received their dose of mountains, which is so necessary for health.

For those who will have breakdowns and an urgent need for mountains in the near future, I will inform you that while the weather is quite normal, we are waiting for the following outings for one day:
September 15, South Ural Reserve, Nara Ridge
September 16, Mount Bakhmur and the closest stone river to Ufa
September 22, South Ural Reserve, Mount Bolshoi Shelom
September 23, Mount Kurtash and Blue Rocks
September 29, South Ural Reserve, Mount Dunan Suigan
September 30, Raspberry Mountain

A little bit about Big Bitch Ridge

The Bolshaya Suka ridge is located in the Chelyabinsk region, not far from the city of Bakal, it is stretched from SW to NE from the right bank of the Yuryuzan River, its length is about 20 km, most of the peaks are more than 1000 m. The highest points from north to south: m. 1102 m, m. 1139.6 m, m. 1080 m, m. 1194 m (the highest point of Bolshaya Suki), m. 1130 m, m. 1105 m, m. 1168 m, m. Peski (1054 m), m. Mal. Uval (1006.7 m).

Valery Kuznetsov:
“There are four versions of the origin of the oronym Suka.
The interpretation is derived from the Tatar "bitch" - "plow", the Bashkir "bitch" - "hill", "pointed peak" and the Bashkir "suuk" - "cold". According to another version - from the word "sukan" - "bow". That is, Suka is an onion ridge. Indeed, a lot of wild garlic, "bear onions" grow on the Suk. Yes, and on old maps the ridge is designated precisely as Sukan.
An interesting observation is made by the famous toponymist of the Urals, A.K. Matveev: “... Russian residents from the village of Tyulyuk call the Suka Range, motivating this by the fact that there are very uncomfortable places for walking ...” I must say that this is true. Most of the ridge is narrow rocky ridges, which now and then have to climb.
Throughout the Bolshaya Suka ridge there are many rocks, remnants, and ledges. In the southern part of the range there is a large tundra mountain plateau. The plateau is almost flat, offering a beautiful panoramic view of the nearby mountains.

How to get there?

To get to the Siberian Pass of the Bolshoy Suki Ridge, you need to get to the village of Katavka. The Katavka settlement was founded in 1843 by settlers from the Katav mine and the Katav-Ivanovsky plant and was first called Novo-Katavskaya. The settlement arose along with other workers' settlements near the Bakalsky mines being developed to serve them. Currently, about 250 people live in the village.
From the village of Katavka, you need to go east along a dirt road, gradually gaining height. The road is damp and seems to lie in a narrow, shady spruce and fir corridor. The trail is often crossed by clear and cold streams with spring water. When the taiga ends, you will see an open space with kurums, isolated bizarre quartzite remnants and a clearing on one of the peaks of the Bolshaya Suka ridge, which is called Lysaya. This is the Siberian Pass, located at an altitude of about 1000 m above sea level. At the pass, you can turn to the southwest along a barely noticeable path, bypassing the rocky outlier on the right along the kurums - the Devil's finger. Markings are found in places on trees. Behind the rocky remnant, gradually gaining height, you can climb towards the top of B. Suka (1194m). After climbing to the top, you can return to the road to Sibirka.
The village of Sibirka was founded in 1779. Included in the Satka urban settlement. The name is associated with the Old Siberian Highway passing nearby. According to the 2010 census, 128 people lived in the village. The village is located on the left bank of the river. Malaya Satka, 32 km from the regional center, surrounded by mountain ranges Moskal, Bolshaya Suka, Uvan. Previously, the main occupation of the inhabitants was logging and charcoal burning for the Satka iron-smelting plant. After 1941, the blast furnaces of the plant were switched to another type of fuel, charcoal burning was stopped. In 1967, a power line was laid from Bakal to the village, an eight-year school was built, which operated until 1980.
At present, the Visitor Center of the Zyuratkul National Park is located in the village. In the vicinity of the village there are 2 tourist routes: pos. Zyuratkul - Sibirka (20 km), Sibirka - B. Uvan (12 km, radial ascent). At 7 km there are attractions: "Boiling Key" and "Fountain".

Valery Kuznetsov:
“It is worth noting that if you are interested in local history and ethnography, it will be very informative to communicate with the old residents of the Katavka village. The Katavian dialect is classified by philologists as a separate dialect.
And the self-name of the Katavians is shmaty. When I have to visit Katavka, I try to communicate with local grandparents with great pleasure. You will not hear such an interesting and original speech anywhere else!”

How to get to the southern part of the Bolshaya Suka Ridge?

It is convenient to get to the southern tip of the ridge along the road from the city of Yuryuzan to the village of Tyulyuk, having reached the clearing where the village of Petropavlovka used to be, and from it along the old logging road and along the path up. However, look for a guide.

Photo by Valery Kuznetsov and Igor Akromenko from the group "Gorny Shurale".

/ Weekend Trip: Katavka-Big Bitch-Rapid

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Approximately halfway between Yuryuzan and Satka, skirting the Bolshaya Suka ridge, the M5 transural highway creeps for long kilometers to the pass. And at its highest point, the stone rivers of kurum, which flow down from the ridge through the thinning forest, almost reach the asphalt of the road. Many times passing by this place, I "licked my lips", looking at the close peaks. I thought that someday I need to stop and run upstairs, since they are very close. I thought and drove on, because the plans have always been something else. And it would have probably continued like this forever, if one day I took it and didn’t specially come to Bitch for the purpose of climbing.

Katavka - Big Bitch

The starting point of my journey was the ancient village of Katavka, founded near the ancient Kazan trail, sort of like in the time of the almighty Myasnikov and Tverdyshev, and lying at the very ridge.
An old forest road leads from the village to the pass. They used it at one time for communication with the Sibirka lying behind two passes, as well as for the removal of timber. And it is quite possible that it was part of the same legendary ancient Kazan (Kazan path), along which communication was carried out through the Big Stone in time immemorial. It hurts that the pass here is comfortable: low, smoothed. And opposite it, on Nurgush, just as good, leading further to the east.

The pass is very close. "Ran" quickly - in about an hour. The ascent ended, and the road led to an old plot - woodlands with clearings, low birches and firs. A little ahead on the right, from behind low trees, a remnant peeped out, marking the crossing point. Kurumistye peaks, the guards of the pass, parted a little and opened a passage through the ridge. Here passes the border of the forest and lifeless stone. Junipers and dwarf fir-trees clamber upwards along the stone screes. Interspersed in the redness of the mountain tundra with green spots. Crooked, squat, smoothed out by constantly blowing winds. And gray stone rivers - kurums - rush from the tops to meet them and get lost in the sea of taiga.

The road, having slightly recovered its breath, pulled the trail further, towards the emerging slope to the east, descending into the Yamki tract - a hollow between Suka and Uvan. Here the distant Zyuratkul ridge was clearly visible with a characteristic white mark on one of the hills.
For some time he stood, peering into the distance, then stepped aside and, making his way through the thickets of undergrowth, past the pass remnant, came to the edge of the ridge drop. From here, the entire eastern panorama of the mountains was already open - the bulk of the nearby Uvan and Nurgush. However, I wasn't going there today. My goal was the hilly height dominating to the right of the pass, where I planned to find a place convenient for lodging for the night.

I regretted leaving the road. Now I had to make my way through the windbreaks and kurums up, past the rocky remnants, now and then sliding off the moss-covered stones. The trails here, if they met, then all with traces of claws. And, as is customary according to the strange law of animal stitches, they disappeared as suddenly as they appeared. But to go for a while helped.

The views in the meantime were amazing. In the golden evening light, with each gained meter of height, the mountains approached. Uvan's hump is already very close. Down there, under it, the sources of Malaya Satka were hidden. From a height it was also clearly visible how my road, drawn by an arrow along the clearing, went to Moskal and the Olympic cordon invisible from here - the center of all the local paths. I must say that Bolshaya Suka, being the northern continuation of the powerful Zigalga ridge, is located in the very center of the Southern Urals. Its name comes from the Bashkir "suuk", that is, "cold", and not what many thought. Although, as the authoritative Ural toponymist Alexander Matveev writes, the local population emphasizes just the first syllable, citing the fact that it is very difficult to move along the ridge. Here I completely agree with them.

Scrambling from remnant to remnant, I crawl out onto another stone platform. Here it is, in full view, Big Nurgush - the highest point of the Chelyabinsk region. A huge plateau with an area of tens of square kilometers adjoins the stone peak on the left. This place is not as often visited by tourists as Big Iremel, and many rare plants have been preserved on the tundra plateau, including the golden root. Through the saddle between the Nurgush stepson Lukash and Bolshoi Nurgush himself, the old Thieves' trail passes, along which horse thieves were taken from the Satka plant to the Bashkir Trans-Urals of horses. It was believed that if you walk along this path, then one day you yourself will become a thief. This is just one of the many legends and tales that the Satka district is very rich in. However, like the entire mining Urals.

On one of the climbs, he left his backpack and rushed up lightly - to catch the sunset light in order to have time to photograph something else behind the setting sun. And here it is, the sun, imperceptibly, imperceptibly, but it seems to be quite noticeable and quickly rolled up to the edge of a distant ridge. And I sat down on the edge of the cliff, suddenly realizing that my feet did not go to the top, although there was very little left of it. But I can't bring myself to do it. I need to go back for a backpack, and then crawl up again. But that's not the point at all. I sat in silence on the cliff. Somewhere far below, the track rumbled. And I felt good and calm. But the sunset light began to play its usual trick on me. I will be understood by those who remained alone in the evening far from human habitation. In the evening twilight, during sunset, a wave of anxiety and loneliness rolls in, which you just need to wait out. Survive this hour and a half, because when the sun goes down and night comes, the wave will subside. But at this very time you are ready to drop everything and run back to the people without looking back. For because the feeling that surrounds you is ancient, at this time instincts turn on, saying very clearly: “Now the night will come, and if you are left alone, then you are unlikely to live until morning.” And it cannot be knocked out or etched with anything.
I returned to my backpack. He sat still, thought, but, once again realizing that his legs did not go up and there was nothing to be done about it, and having come up with several well-reasoned reasons, he began to move down in the ensuing darkness.

Downward movement is always some kind of sadness. The sadness of parting with the mountain. Already descending from the pass, I turned around and saw how the first brightest star had risen above the peak I had left. Big, warm, fluffy. Silent peak, silent star and its bright magical light, flying through, God knows what space and time! In my head flashed: "Heavenly nail." So like the Arabs called Sirius. And the feeling of pity at the same time appeared too. Pity that I did not find the strength to stay and left, leaving behind a fairy tale and the view of silent ridges.
On the way back, I didn’t turn on the flashlight for a long time, and as a result, I went to the wrong place: to abandoned hayfields, swamps, and went out to the outskirts of Katavka from a completely different side, when night had already fallen.