Incubator ventilation: how it affects the hatching of chicks, how to do it yourself. What should be the ventilation during incubation? Where in the incubator is warmer than air

To breed chickens at home, you will need to either buy an industrial apparatus or make an incubator with your own hands. The second option is convenient in that it is possible to assemble a device of the required size, and for the required number of eggs. In addition, cheap materials such as foam or plywood are used to create it. All egg turning and temperature adjustment work can be fully automated.

What you need to create a homemade incubator

The basis of any type of apparatus for breeding chicks is the body. It must keep the heat inside well so that the temperature of the eggs does not change dramatically. Since due to significant jumps, the likelihood of a healthy brood is noticeably reduced. You can make a home incubator case from a frame and plywood, polystyrene foam, a TV or refrigerator case. Eggs are laid in wooden or plastic trays, with a bottom made of slats or mesh. There are automatic trays with motors that turn the eggs themselves. Or rather, they deflect them to the side after the time indicated on the timer.

To heat the air in a do-it-yourself incubator, incandescent lamps are most often used, with a power of 25 to 100 W, depending on the size of the device. Temperature control is carried out using an ordinary thermometer or an electronic thermostat with a sensor. To avoid stagnation of air in the incubator, natural or forced ventilation is required. If the device is small, then it is enough just to make holes near the bottom and on the lid. For a do-it-yourself incubator made from a refrigerator, you will need to install fans, both above and below. This is the only way to ensure the necessary air movement, as well as an even distribution of heat.

So that the incubation process is not disturbed, you need to correctly calculate the number of trays. The distance between the incandescent lamps and the tray must be at least 15 cm.

The same distance must be left between the other trays in the do-it-yourself incubator so that the air movement is free. Also, at least 4-5 cm should remain between them and the walls.

Ventilation holes are made from 12 to 20 mm in size, in the upper and lower parts of the incubator.

Before laying eggs, be sure to check that the fans are correctly positioned and that the lamps have enough power to evenly heat the incubator. This value should not exceed ±0.5°C in each corner of the machine after it has fully warmed up.

How to make a do-it-yourself foam incubator

Expanded polystyrene is one of the most popular materials for creating an incubator. It is not only affordable, but has excellent thermal insulation properties and low weight. For the manufacture will need the following materials:

• foam sheets 2 pcs. with a thickness of 50 mm;
• adhesive tape, glue;
• incandescent lamps 4 pcs. 25 W and cartridges for them;
• fan (the one used to cool the computer is also suitable);
• thermostat;
• trays for eggs and 1 for water.

Before you start assembling an incubator with your own hands, you should draw up detailed drawings with dimensions.

Step-by-step instruction:

1 - water tank; 2 - viewing window; 3 - tray; 4 - thermostat; 5 - temperature controller sensor.

1. If desired or necessary, a fan is installed, but in such a way that the air flow hits the light bulbs, and not the eggs. Otherwise, they may dry out.

The heat inside the incubator, assembled from polystyrene with your own hands, will be retained even better if all the walls, bottom and ceiling are pasted over with foil insulation.

Incubators with automatic or manual egg turning

For the process to be successful, the eggs must be constantly turned 180 °. But doing it manually takes a lot of time. For this purpose, flip mechanisms are used.

There are several types of these devices:

• mobile grid;
• roller rotation;
• tray tilt 45°.

The first option is most often used in small incubators, for example, foam ones. The principle of operation is as follows: the grid slowly moves from one side to the other, as a result, the eggs lying in its cells turn over. This process can be automated or done manually. To do this, it is enough to attach a piece of wire to the grid and bring it out. The disadvantage of such a mechanism is that the egg can simply drag through and not roll over. Roller rotation is less commonly used in homemade incubators with automatic egg turning, as it requires a lot of round parts and bushings to create it. The device works with the help of rollers covered with a mesh (mosquito).

So that the eggs do not roll, they are in the cells of a wooden lattice. When the tape starts to move, all the eggs turn over.

A swivel mechanism that tilts the trays is used in larger incubators, such as those made from a refrigerator. In addition, this method performs its task better than others, since in any case each egg leans. There are automatic egg turning trays. They come with a motor and a power supply. There are several smaller ones in one tray. Each rotates separately after a user-set time.

How to make a device for hatching chicks from a refrigerator or plywood

Before you start making an incubator with your own hands, you need to draw up a drawing and a diagram for connecting all the elements. All shelves are pulled out of the refrigerator, including the freezer.

Step-by-step instruction:

1. In the ceiling, holes are drilled from the inside for incandescent lamps and one through for ventilation.
2. It is recommended to finish the walls of a home-made incubator from the refrigerator with sheets of expanded polystyrene, then it will retain heat longer.
3. Old racks for shelves can be converted into trays or put new ones on them.
4. A thermostat is mounted on top of the outside of the refrigerator, and the sensor is installed inside.
5. Closer to the bottom, at least 3 holes are drilled for air ventilation, 1.5x1.5 cm in size.
6. For better circulation, you can install 1 or 2 fans on top near the lamps and the same number below on the floor.

To make it easier to monitor the temperature and eggs, it is necessary to cut a hole in the door for a viewing window. It is closed with glass or transparent plastic, the slots are carefully smeared, for example, with a sealant.

The video shows a do-it-yourself incubator made from a refrigerator.

If there is no refrigerator, then the frame is made of wooden beams, and the walls are made of plywood. Moreover, they should be two-layer, and a heater is laid between them. Bulb holders are attached to the ceiling, bars are mounted in the middle of the two walls for installing the tray. At the bottom, another additional bulb is placed for better evaporation of water. The distance between it and the tray should be at least 15-17 cm. A viewing window with a sliding glass for ventilation is made in the lid. Closer to the floor, holes are drilled along the long walls for air circulation.

By the same principle, incubators are often made from TV cases for a small number of eggs. The process of turning eggs in them is most often carried out manually, as it takes a little time. Trays can be made from rounded rails. Such an incubator does not need fans, since ventilation occurs every time the lid is opened to turn the eggs.

At the bottom of any incubator, a container of water is placed to create the optimal level of humidity required for the eggs.

To hatch a very small batch of chicks (10 chicks), 2 inverted basins can be used. To do this, one of them is turned over to the second one and fastened with a furniture canopy from one edge. The main thing is that they cannot move out of each other. A lamp holder is attached to the ceiling from the inside. Sand is poured at the bottom, which is covered with foil and hay. The foil should have many holes with a diameter of 3 mm in order for moisture to pass through it. To adjust the temperature, a bar with steps is used, which is inserted between the basins.

In order for the hatching of chicks in any incubator to occur at the same time, the eggs must be of the same size, and uniform heating of the entire space of the apparatus is also necessary.

Two-chamber homemade incubator - video

Poultry farmers need to be aware of the specifics of growing eggs in an incubator. Of great importance is the temperature regime set in the device.

An important condition for the effective development of embryos is the organization of ventilation in the incubator. After all, the health of embryos depends not only on temperature, but also on humidity, a uniform supply of oxygen and the processing of carbon dioxide. When installing ventilation, these problems are solved, and farmers get healthy chicks without deviations and diseases.

High-quality ventilation in the incubator removes carbon dioxide from the chambers in time. At the same time, clean air is supplied, thanks to which the embryos of future chicks receive the necessary dose of oxygen. If you do not take care of installing a ventilation system, harmful air saturated with carbon dioxide is very quickly concentrated inside the incubator. As a result, the embryos will die, or the offspring will hatch to a greater extent with serious violations. Such birds will have to be culled. Farmers will lose valuable time and a new incubation will need to be started.

Calculation of ventilation depending on the age of the embryos

Ventilation parameters are calculated based on the age of the embryos. It is impossible to establish a certain regime once and apply it throughout the entire period of incubation of eggs.

Embryo development stages:

• The sixth day is a small absorption of oxygen, a large intake of air is not required. As a rule, it is on the sixth day that future chicks begin to breathe on their own.
• Sixteenth day - each egg should receive 2.5 liters of oxygen per day, as the need for air increases dramatically.
• The last days of incubation are 8 liters of clean air in 24 hours, because the chicks are almost mature.

In home gardens, the use of large industrial incubators may not be practical due to their large capacity. To grow a small number of poultry, compact devices are needed, which you can do with your own hands, using available tools and materials.

We will give several ways to make incubators. However, even a homemade device must meet certain requirements, which you will learn about from this article.

How to make your own egg incubator

Breeding poultry is a fairly profitable occupation, but for the uninterrupted production of productive young animals, you need to buy or make a device with your own hands in which young animals will be bred.

How to make an incubator for chicken eggs or quails with your own hands, using improvised materials, you will learn from the sections below.

What to pay attention to

For the full breeding of young birds, certain recommendations and requirements regarding the use of the device and its manufacture should be followed:

• The temperature regime at a distance of two centimeters from the eggs should not exceed 38.6 degrees, and the minimum temperature is 37.3 degrees;
• Only fresh eggs are suitable for incubation, which should not be stored for more than ten days;
• In the chamber it is necessary to maintain an optimal level of humidity. Before pipping, it is 40-60%, and after the beginning of pipping - 80%. Humidity levels must be reduced before chicks are taken.

The breeding of young poultry also depends on the location of the eggs. They need to be placed vertically (sharp end down) or horizontally. If they are located vertically, they should be tilted to the right or left by 45 degrees (when laying goose or duck eggs, the degree of inclination is up to 90 degrees).

If the eggs are placed horizontally, they must be turned at least three times a day by 180 degrees. However, it is best to carry out a coup every hour. A few days before pecking, the turns are stopped.

Rules

If you are interested in how to make a homemade incubator, you should know that this device is made according to certain rules.

To make you will need:

1. Housing made of material, well retaining heat (wood or foam). This is necessary so that the temperature inside the device does not change during the hatching process. You can use an old refrigerator, microwave or even a TV as a case.
2. For heating they use ordinary lamps (from 25 to 100 W, depending on the size of the camera), and to control the temperature, they put an ordinary thermometer inside the device.
3. To keep fresh air inside need to provide ventilation. For small appliances, it is enough to drill holes in the side walls and bottom, and for large incubators (for example, made from a refrigerator), several fans are installed (under and above the grate for).

Figure 1. Common types of incubators: 1 - with automatic rotation, 2 - mini-incubator, 3 - industrial model

Trays or grills can be bought or made from metal mesh. It is important that there is space between the trays for free air circulation.

Peculiarities

The incubator must be well ventilated. Preference should be given to forced ventilation, as the constant movement of air will maintain the required temperature and humidity inside.

Figure 1 shows the main types of incubators that can be used to breed young birds in a household plot.

How to auto-rotate eggs in an incubator

Models without manual turning are not very convenient, since a person needs to constantly monitor the process of hatching and manually turn all the eggs. It is much easier to immediately make a homemade incubator with auto-rotation (Figure 2).

Instruction

There are several options for arranging auto-rotate. For small appliances, you can simply equip a mobile grid, which is driven by a small roller. As a result, the eggs move slowly and gradually turn over.

Note: The disadvantage of this method is that you still have to control the coup, since the eggs can simply budge, but not roll over.

Roller rotation is considered more modern, for the arrangement of which special rotating rollers are installed under the grate. To prevent damage to the shell, all rollers are covered with a mosquito net. However, this method also has a significant drawback: for the manufacture of an auto-rotate system, you will have to take up free space in the chamber by installing rollers.

Figure 2. Scheme of automatic egg turning

The best method is considered to be a flip, in which the entire tray immediately tilts 45 degrees. The rotation is activated by a special mechanism located outside, and all eggs are guaranteed to warm up.

How to properly lay eggs in an incubator

The incubation of poultry should be carried out taking into account certain features and maintain the optimal mode of breeding young animals. The table in Figure 3 shows the basic requirements for breeding chickens, ducks and geese.

First of all, you should maintain the correct temperature (minimum 37.5 - maximum 37.8 degrees). It is also necessary to regularly check the humidity, determining it by the difference in temperatures on the “wet” and “dry” thermometers. If the "wet" thermometer shows a temperature of up to 29 degrees, then the humidity is about 60 percent.

Figure 3. Optimal incubation modes

The breeding regimen must also meet the following requirements:

• Turning must be done at least 8 times a day;
• When hatching young geese and ducks, the eggs must be periodically cooled in a combined way: the first half of their incubation is cooled with air for half an hour, and then irrigated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate;
• During the hatching of young animals, the air temperature on a “dry” thermometer should not exceed 34 degrees, and humidity should not exceed 78-90 degrees.

It is important that insufficient warming, regardless of the stage, can slow down the growth and development of embryos, since chicks absorb and use protein worse. As a result of insufficient warming, most chicks die before hatching, and the surviving chicks hatch later, their umbilical cord does not heal and their stomach grows.

Underheating, depending on the stage, may cause some disturbances. In the first stage they include:

• The intestines are filled with fluid with blood;
• The kidneys are enlarged and the liver is unevenly stained;
• Edema appears on the neck.

During the second stage, underheating can provoke:

• swelling of the umbilical ring;
• The intestines are filled with bile;
• Enlargement of the heart when underheated in the last few days of incubation.

Overheating can cause external deformities (eyes, jaws and head) and hatching starts prematurely. If the temperature regime has been elevated in the last few days, the internal organs (heart, liver and stomach) of the chicks may be deformed and the walls of the abdominal cavity will not grow together.

Strong and short-term overheating can cause the embryo to dry up to the inside of the shell, swelling and hemorrhage appear on the skin of the chick, and the embryo itself is located with its head in the yolk, which is not normal.

Figure 4. Normal development of the embryo (left) and possible defects in violation of the humidity regime (right)

Prolonged exposure to high temperatures in the second half of incubation leads to early movement of the embryo in the air chamber, and unused protein can be seen under the shell. In addition, there are many chicks in the brood that hatched the shell, but died without drawing in the yolk.

Violations of the humidity regime can also provoke serious violations.(picture 4):

• High humidity causes delayed development of embryos, embryos do not use protein well and often die in the middle and end of incubation;
• If the humidity was increased at the time of pecking, the beak may begin to stick to the shell in the chicks, a goiter develops, and an excess of fluid is observed in the intestines and stomach. Swelling and hemorrhage may develop on the neck;
• Increased humidity often causes late hatching and hatching of sluggish young with bloated belly and too light down;
• If the humidity was low, pipping starts in the middle part, and the shells are dry and too strong;
• With low humidity, small and dry young hatch.

It is especially important to maintain optimal humidity (80-82%) during the pipping period. It should be noted that during all periods of breeding, one should strive to maintain such a temperature and humidity regime that exists during natural incubation.

Figure 5. Possible defects during transillumination with an ovoscope

The duration of incubation depends on the type of poultry. For example, for chickens of meat breeds, it is 21 days and 8 hours. If the normal mode was maintained, the beginning of pecking begins on the 19th day and 12 hours after laying, the chicks begin to hatch already on the 20th day, and after another 12 hours most of the young appear. During incubation, it is necessary to periodically check with an ovoscope in order to detect damage in time (Figure 5).

What is needed for this

To properly lay eggs, you need to warm up the device in advance and prepare the eggs.

For breeding young animals of any poultry, only eggs that have been stored for no longer than a week in a dark room with good ventilation at room temperature are suitable. Before laying, they must be translucent with an ovoscope and specimens are selected without damage, cracks and growths on the shell.

Peculiarities

Only eggs of the correct shape and with a characteristic shell color for a certain type of bird can be laid in the incubator.

In addition, you need to choose the right lattice that will match the size of the eggs. For example, quails require a smaller grill, and turkeys require a larger one. It is also necessary to familiarize yourself in advance with the temperature and humidity regime of incubation for each type of bird.

How to make a homemade incubator from the refrigerator

Very often, home incubators are made from old refrigerators, since the body of this household appliance is quite roomy and allows you to simultaneously hatch large batches of young birds.

You can see how to make an incubator out of the refrigerator with your own hands with detailed instructions in the video.

Instruction

Before starting manufacturing, you need to draw up a drawing and a plan for attaching all the necessary elements. You also need to wash the case and pull out all the shelves and the freezer from it.

The procedure for making an incubator from an old refrigerator includes the following steps(picture 6):

• Several holes are drilled in the ceiling for mounting lamps and arranging ventilation;
• The inner part of the walls is trimmed with thin sheets of foam to keep the heat inside the device longer;
• Trays or lattices are installed on the shelves;
• A temperature sensor is placed inside, and the thermostat is brought out;
• Several ventilation holes are drilled in the lower part of the side walls, and in order to provide a higher level of air flow, fans are installed above and below.

Figure 6. Scheme for manufacturing a household incubator from an old refrigerator

It is also desirable to cut a small viewing window in the door so that it is more convenient to observe the incubation process without opening the door.

How to make a foam incubator step by step

The body of a home-made device can be made from an old TV box or a foam box, reinforcing it with a frame of wooden slats. In the frame you need to fix four porcelain lampholders. Light bulbs for heating are screwed into three cartridges, and the fourth bulb is used to heat water in the bath. The power of all light bulbs should not exceed 25 watts. Examples and drawings for making simple models are shown in Figure 7.

Note: The middle lamp is often turned on only at a certain time: from 17 to 23-00. A bath of water to maintain humidity can also be made from improvised materials. For example, using a jar of herring, cutting off part of the lid from it. From such a container, water will evaporate better, and the lid will prevent local overheating.

A grate is installed inside a homemade incubator. The surface of the eggs on the grill must be at least 17 centimeters from the light bulb, and for eggs under the grill, at least 15 centimeters.

To measure the temperature inside the chamber, a conventional thermometer is used. To make it convenient to use the device, its front wall must be made removable and covered with cardboard or other dense material. Screws are used for fastening. Such a removable wall allows you to put trays inside the incubator, put a bath and change the water in it, as well as carry out all other manipulations.

Figure 7. Schemes for the manufacture of simple incubators from a refrigerator and a box

In the lid you need to make a window that will serve for ventilation and temperature control. The window is 12 centimeters long and 8 centimeters wide. It is better to cover it with glass, leaving a small gap in width.

For additional ventilation, three small square holes should also be made along the long wall near the floor (each side is 1.5 centimeters). They must be kept open at all times for a constant supply of fresh air.

How to make a microwave incubator

A microwave incubator is made according to the same principle as a refrigerator device. But it should be borne in mind that many eggs will not fit in such a device, so at home it is used mainly for breeding quails.

When making an incubator from a microwave oven, you need to consider some features(picture 8):

• Outside, the case must be sheathed with thin sheets of foam to stabilize the temperature inside;
• Ventilation holes are left in the upper part, and the door is not insulated and sealed for additional fresh air;
• A tray is installed inside, but since there is not enough space in the chamber for cans of water, a container of moisturizing liquid is placed directly under the tray.

Figure 8. How to make a do-it-yourself microwave incubator

It is also necessary to provide protection against overheating by installing barriers on incandescent lamps.

How to make ventilation in the incubator with your own hands

A homemade incubator also does not provide a special egg cooling system, as they are cooled for several minutes during the turning process. During the entire incubation, the temperature should be maintained at 39 degrees.

For ease of use, legs can be attached to the device. And since this equipment is very compact, and the incubation process is not accompanied by the release of unpleasant odors, it is possible to hatch young poultry even in a city apartment (Figure 9). The procedure for making a simple homemade incubator is shown in the video.

How to make a humidifier in an incubator

For normal operation of a home-made incubator, half a glass of water per day should be poured into the bath. If you want to increase the level of humidity, you can put a rag in the bath, which is washed every two days.

For laying eggs, special slats are placed with gaps between them. Reiki should be made rounded on the sides. To make it easier to carry out the coup, you need to leave free space in the tray corresponding to one egg.

Note: Eggs in a homemade incubator are turned by hand 180 degrees. It is better if the coup is carried out up to 6 times a day with an equal time interval (after 2-4 hours).

Figure 9. Drawings for making simple do-it-yourself incubators

To maintain humidity, no devices are provided in a home-made incubator, and this mode is maintained approximately. To evaporate the liquid, it is recommended to install light bulbs of 25 or 15 watts. Before pecking, the evaporator is not turned on, and if it is turned off too early, then the eggs will have too hard a shell that the chicks will not be able to break.

Tretyakova studied the composition of the air in the incubators and found that ammonia appears there only at the moment of pecking and hatching of the chickens and, therefore, ventilation should be increased at this time.

The author did not find hydrogen sulfide in the incubators and considers its high solubility in water to be the reason for this. Carbon dioxide, according to the author, does not exceed 0.55% under normal conditions. Usually (with average ventilation) the content of CO 2 is 0.3-0.4%, and this concentration of carbon dioxide is harmless. The author conducted an experiment with the absorption of carbon dioxide in an incubator, which did not give an increase in hatchability, and therefore, in her opinion, there is no point in doing this.

In our work, we have shown that in the last days of incubation, gas exchange increases significantly. This puts the issue of ventilation of incubators in the days before hatching (a difficult period of transition to completely different living conditions) in the first place in providing the necessary conditions for the normal development of the embryo.

Unfortunately, the latest incubation manual underestimates the importance of gas composition for normal embryonic development and considers air changes in the incubator only in terms of water consumption to maintain the required humidity.

Due to the fact that the oxygen content under normal conditions changes relatively little (from 20.7% to 19.5%, i.e., by 5-7% of the initial value), calculations for air exchange in the incubator are made in relation to maintaining the required concentration of carbon dioxide. Pritzker and Tretyakov give the following calculation of the exchange of air in the incubator per hour, so that the concentration of carbon dioxide does not exceed the norm (0.3%).

In the "Rekord" incubator, which is currently the most common in the USSR, there are about 1.5 thousand eggs per 1 m 3, and therefore multiple air exchange is necessary here.

Unfortunately, in the literature on incubation, we often meet with another value that characterizes ventilation, with the speed of air movement. However, this value does not reflect a certain exchange of air in incubators of different systems, since the latter also depends on a number of other conditions (width and length of the outlet ventilation pipe, etc.).

Wilgus and Sadler measured the air speed in an artificially ventilated incubator at different levels and found very large differences in it - from 9-15 to 75 m per 1 min. in the incubation part of the incubator and from 5-7 to 35-45 m in its hatching part. The authors emphasize that such large variations do not contribute to high hatchability. In addition, according to the observations of the authors, the direction of the ventilation flow is also important, and the best results are obtained by ventilation through the eggs, from the bottom up.

Hemp attaches great importance to ventilation when incubating eggs after the 15th day. On a large material, he showed that at high temperature (39.8-39.2 ° between the trays) and average humidity (55.4-52.0%) in the group with low air speed (0.5 m/s), 42.4% of chickens were hatched, and in the group at high speed (1.95 m/s) - 96.8%; at approximately the same temperature, but high humidity (78-74%) in the group with low air velocity - 72.5% of chickens, and in the group with high air velocity - 98.9%. However, it follows from the author's data that at low temperatures (37–37.8° between trays) the air velocity plays a much smaller role. An increase in air velocity at the same time gave in one experiment an increase in hatchability by 3%, and in another - only by 0.3%. The author also cites an interesting observation when, due to insufficient air exchange, hydrogen sulfide was detected in the incubator, which greatly reduced the hatchability of chickens. In conclusion, the author recommends that at a temperature in the incubator of 37.8-38.0° (and between trays 38.0-38.5°) and a humidity of 68% and 54%, alternating for 2 days, set the air speed in the incubator to 1.5 m/s, which will lead to a speed between trays only 0.3-0.5 m/sec. The author emphasizes further that, in addition to the indicated speed of air movement, a good exchange of air in the incubator must be ensured.

Brazhnikova confirmed the data of other researchers on a more complete use of yolk fat by duck embryos (by the end of incubation, only 12.4% of the yolk remains and is drawn in in the duck embryo, and 50% in the chicken embryo) and, in connection with this, their more intense respiration in the last days of incubation. Considering the allowable CO 2 concentration in the incubator to be 0.5%, the author concludes that at the beginning of incubation, the ventilation of duck eggs may even be somewhat lower than that of chicken eggs, but from the 22nd day until the end of the hatching of ducklings, it should be almost doubled compared to ventilation, used in the incubation of chicken eggs.

Soroka investigated the importance of ventilation for the development of duck embryos in the second half of incubation and came to the conclusion that it is necessary to set an air speed of 1.0-1.2 m/s in an artificially ventilated incubator. and sparse laying of eggs in the incubation column (through one free tier). Under these conditions, 83.3% of ducklings hatched. However, an even greater increase in air velocity (1.8-2.0 m/sec.) gave a further increase in the hatchability of ducklings - 85.5%.

In a detailed survey of the Universal-45 incubator, conducted by Orlov, much attention was paid to ventilation. The author found that: a) the air speed in this incubator is 4 times higher than in the Record incubator, and is equal to an average of 77 m/sec. (from 13 to 176 m/sec.), and in the hatcher - from 30 to 52 m/sec. "Record"), and in the hatcher - 17 times per hour; c) due to good air exchange in the Universal-45 incubator, a relatively low carbon dioxide content is ensured: 0.1 - 0.17% in incubators and 0.21-0.25% - in hatchers; d) as a result, when incubating many thousands of eggs, a higher hatchability was obtained than in the Record incubator: chickens - by 2.0-3.5% and ducklings - by 3.4-11.4%. In the incubator "Universal-45" this season, the hatchability of chickens was 88.3-90.7%, ducklings - 67.6-86.5%. The increase in ventilation had a particularly favorable effect on the hatchability of ducklings.

Having established a weaker development of the circulatory system in goose embryos compared to chicken embryos, Bordzivilovskaya suggests that in the process of evolution they were in better aeration conditions, and considers it necessary to pay special attention to sufficient air exchange in incubators when incubating goose eggs. This conclusion is confirmed by a study by Bykhovets, who showed that gas exchange in goose embryos proceeds much more intensively than in chicken ones, since the weight of a goose egg is only 3 times more than a chicken one, and the release of carbon dioxide by one egg is 4 times more. Based on his observations, the author developed ventilation standards for the incubation of goose eggs in the Record-39 incubator. Approximately 11 incubator air changes per hour are required for normal gas exchange of all goose embryos in the incubator. In connection with the 8-fold air exchange actually available in the incubator with a modern design, the author considers it necessary to increase the air exchange in it by 25%.

To elucidate the role of each of the incubation factors, including ventilation, in the incubation of eggs of non-domesticated birds (pheasants and quails), Romanov conducted numerous experiments on a large material (about 9500 eggs). The author notes that the eggs of wild birds are especially sensitive to changes in ventilation, and each species has its own specific optimal conditions. So, for the incubation of pheasant eggs in the first 16 days, ventilation with an air speed of 20 m per 1 minute is most favorable, and in the last 8 days - natural ventilation (significantly slower air speed); quail eggs can be incubated all the time in an artificially ventilated incubator.

A few words should be added about the indirect meaning of ventilation. Haskin has shown that ventilation during industrial incubation plays a major role in the heat exchange of eggs at the end of the incubation period, allowing excess heat to be released. The author calculated that only 10% of heat transfer at this time is carried out by evaporation, and heat transfer by radiation, which for a single egg is 43% of the total heat transfer, for each egg from a batch in large incubators is reduced by half due to a decrease in the free surface in contact with the air of the incubator (at dense laying of eggs in trays in a vertical position), and therefore, the role of heat transfer by convection increases significantly. Therefore, it is necessary to increase the speed of air movement in the incubator, especially in the layer of air boundary with the eggs (usually not exceeding 0.09-0.1 m/s here), in order to avoid overheating of the eggs in the second half of the incubation period.

In conclusion, it should be said that the ventilation of incubators, which promotes good gas exchange of embryos, plays no less a role in the normal course of growth and development of embryos than temperature and humidity, especially in the last days of incubation, when this factor becomes perhaps the most important. Particular attention must be paid to ventilation when incubating duck and goose eggs, as well as eggs of game birds (pheasants, quails, etc.).

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As soon as the laying hen lays the egg, it begins to exchange air with the environment. And the older it is, the more actively the embryo consumes oxygen. Therefore, good ventilation of the incubator plays an important role in breeding chickens. Moreover, the more eggs are hatched at the same time, the more attention should be paid to it.

Why ventilation is needed

Is ventilation necessary in incubators and why is it important? There are three factors that are affected by the correct organization of air exchange:

• Fresh air supply.
• Removal of carbon dioxide.
• Uniform heating of eggs.
• Humidity level regulation.

If we compare two incubators, one of which is ventilated naturally - using holes in the body and the second with forced ventilation, then:

• In a device with natural ventilation, the temperature difference between the top and bottom of the egg can reach 4 degrees. And this negatively affects the development of the embryo.
• Overheating and stagnation of air is observed in the intervals between the eggs in the tray.
• In incubators with forced ventilation, it is easier to maintain the required level of humidity.
• If air exchange is weak, the embryos experience a lack of oxygen, as a result, suffocation appears.

Homemade ventilation

Why do eggs need fresh air?

• Day 5-6 - the embryo begins to breathe every day, increasing oxygen consumption and CO2 release.
• from the 16th day - the embryo needs 2.5 liters of air.
• from day 19 - 8 liters of fresh air are needed for each egg.

Thus, without a well-thought-out ventilation system, it will not be possible to achieve high productivity rates. In addition, fresh air and uniform heating of the eggs allow you to get a healthy brood.

Ventilation features

Like other parameters that affect the creation of an optimal microclimate in an incubator, ventilation has its own nuances.

Ventilation instruction:

• In the first three days, ventilation in the incubator does not turn on. This is done to maintain a uniform temperature in the chamber. And since the embryo has not yet begun to breathe, it is simply not needed. Also during this period, you need to keep the humidity at 70%. At the same time, it is important not to allow an excessive increase in humidity or temperature.
• From 3-4 days, ventilation starts in the minimum mode. Humidity is gradually reduced to 50%.
• Starting from the 5th day, ventilation gradually increases, and on the 18th day it should work at full capacity. At the same time, from the 15th day, the incubator must be ventilated by opening it for 15-20 minutes twice a day.

Thus, ventilation of the chamber starts from the minimum level, gradually increasing it. A large influx of fresh air is especially necessary for the chicks in the last days, because. they switch to pulmonary respiration.

Another factor to consider is the temperature and humidity of the room where the incubator is located. For example, on hot days in summer, overheating of eggs is possible due to hot air entering the chamber. You also need to monitor the humidity - in the last days before hatching, it should reach 80% with continuous ventilation. In rooms with dry air, this will be more difficult to achieve. The air itself must be clean and fresh.

Types of ventilation

Ventilation of incubators can be implemented in three ways.

1. Natural. Holes are made in the body for air exchange. This method is used in the simplest incubators. Of the benefits - low cost and lack of additional equipment. Of the minuses - there is no way to provide uniform heating and quickly regulate humidity, a weak influx of fresh air. It is highly discouraged to use only natural ventilation - it is difficult to obtain high hatchability.
2. Periodic. The fan in the incubator turns on once a day and renews the air. The rest of the time, the device is ventilated through the holes.
3. Constant. In this case, the fan runs constantly. And the change of air occurs gradually through the holes in the walls of the chamber. A big plus of this method is to ensure uniform heating of the eggs.

periodic

To change the air inside the incubator, many models are equipped with a periodic ventilation system. If it is not there, the incubator will have to be ventilated manually, or retrofitted with a special controller that will automate this process.

The scheme of such ventilation is as follows:

• The heater turns off.
• The fan turns on for 15-20 minutes.
• When the egg temperature drops to 32-33 degrees, it turns off and the heater turns on.

Usually, this procedure is done 1 time per day, and in the last days - 2 times.

Constant

This type of ventilation provides a constant movement of air inside the incubator.

Permanent ventilation scheme

Ventilation scheme:

• The fan in the incubator can be located either at the top, in the center of the chamber, or on the side. When it is located at the top, air is forced onto it and partially goes out through the holes in the body located above the blades.
• Further, it moves along the channels located along the walls, sucking in fresh air through the holes.
• Reaching the bottom of the incubator, it is saturated with moisture from the water containers and again goes up through the egg trays.
• Air again enters the fan and the process repeats.

Ideally, a modern incubator should combine all three types of ventilation and work in automatic mode. This provides:

• Uniform heating of eggs.
• Fresh air inside the chamber.
• Humidity regulation.

Those. Ventilation in an incubator has a huge impact on hatchability and the health of future chicks.

Ventilation equipment

For air exchange in the incubator, you need to purchase a fan. For a small camera, you can limit yourself to a regular cooler for the system unit.

The main characteristics of coolers:

• Diameter. It happens from 80 to 400 mm.
• Performance. From 40 to 200 cubic meters per hour. It is selected based on the size of the incubator. It makes no sense to buy a powerful fan for a small camera.
• Food. To connect the fan of the household network, you need 220 volts. Some models consume 12 or 24 volts - they will require a power supply.

Types of fans

Several types of fans can be installed in incubators:

• Axial. The simplest and most common type. The blades rotate around an axis located in the center of the body. For example, a computer cooler is an axial fan.
• Centrifugal. Popularly called "snail". It has an inlet and an outlet. Inside the housing is a spiral-shaped rotor. Compared to axial, it can provide more performance with smaller dimensions and less noise.
• Tangential fan. It has a long body along which the blades are located. Provides a wide jet of airflow. Works quietly. Outperforms centrifugal and axial fans in terms of efficiency, but it also costs more.

The need for fans in homemade incubators

Natural ventilation is simply not enough to create an optimal microclimate inside the incubator. In addition, there is no way to quickly adjust the temperature and humidity. Therefore, a fan is needed, if it is not there, you will have to open the chamber every time, which is not advisable to do too often.

For a homemade device, it is easiest to use coolers from system units.

How to make ventilation in the incubator from the refrigerator

There are several options.

Option number 1.

• The side walls and ceiling of the refrigerator are sheathed with moisture-resistant plywood or plastic. At a distance of 7-10 cm from the bottom, wide holes are made for air to escape.
• A wide opening is made in the ceiling lining for the fan. In the refrigerator itself, 2-3 holes are drilled above the fan to remove air. For fresh air intake - holes are made on the sides of the refrigerator.
• The fan is fixed on the ceiling of the refrigerator at a distance of 2-3 cm from the surface. For this fit any lining.
• The best way to connect a fan is to use a regulated power supply. By changing the voltage power, the speed will change.

Thus, constant ventilation can be made in the incubator from the refrigerator.

Method number 2.

You will need two fans and a round pipe:

• Holes are made along one wall of the pipe.
• The pipe is installed between the walls of the refrigerator above the tray with water, holes down. The distance between the pipe and the container is 3-5 cm.
• On the side where the fan will be, a hole is made. It is necessary to provide a hatch that will regulate the air supply.
• The second cooler is installed directly above the water tank - its function is to quickly increase the humidity in the incubator.

How to connect a fan

The most affordable fans are coolers from computer system units. Their only negative is the consumed voltage of 12 volts.

There are several options for connecting them:

• Old mobile charger.
• Special adapter with voltage regulation.
• Power supply from the computer - you can connect lighting to it.

How to make ventilation in a foam incubator

Since foam devices are usually small in size, one fan is installed in the incubator. Attaching it is very easy.

It is located in the center, on the top cover. For good air exchange in the chamber, it is necessary to place substrates 2-3 cm thick between the case and the cooler.

Ventilation in a foam incubator

It is important to make sure that the fan blows air on itself and not on the eggs. You will also need to make an additional hole above it to vent air.

In addition, you can position the fan at a right angle to the case - it does not matter. It is best to take an adjustable power supply - it is much easier to configure the optimal mode of operation.

Thus, there is nothing complicated in the implementation of forced air exchange. It will take a minimum investment and a little time. But the eggs will appreciate it and will please with high hatchability.

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