Anthurium fertilizer for flowering. How to feed anthurium at home? What is the danger of improper watering

Anthurium or "male happiness" is a wonderful plant grown at home. This flower fits perfectly into any interior. Anthurium has beautiful waxy flowers and brilliant bright green leaves. In order for a flower to have an excellent appearance, it is necessary to properly care for it. Anthurium is considered an unpretentious plant, but some recommendations should be considered. An important component of care is competent watering. How to water the anthurium at home so that it has a beautiful view is collected in this article.

Watering depending on the species

It is necessary to water the plant at home correctly, especially during the active period of growth (in spring and autumn). It is during these seasons that anthurium needs more moisture. But only, it is recommended to organize a competent watering regime, so as not to flood the handsome home. Otherwise, it can lead to rotting of the root system. To prevent excessive moisture, reduce the frequency of watering.

Professionals advise using drainage in a flowerpot to quickly get rid of excess moisture.

A species such as Climbing Anthurium should be watered evenly all year round, and it also needs to be sprayed from time to time with a spray bottle. Anthurium Scherzer should be watered abundantly in the warm season. In winter, watering should be kept to a minimum. Anthurium Crystal should be moistened gently throughout the year. The plant responds positively to moist air.

Watering rules

Flower growers recommend watering the indoor flower in the morning to reduce the risk of moisture stagnation. Because if you moisten the plant in the evening, then there is a high probability of stagnation of water in the pot. To test the soil for moisture, you can put your finger in the soil for a few centimeters, if the soil is wet, therefore, it is not worth watering.

To determine how often to water "male happiness", it is necessary to take into account the air temperature in the room and lighting. In a warm room and in good light, the flower needs increased moisture.

Before you moisten the soil, you need to consider the age of the anthurium and how many leaves are on the plant. Young specimens should be watered frequently, as they require constantly moist soil.

Just do not overdo it, the soil should be slightly moist. When the plant grows a little, it should be watered after the topsoil has dried. Also, if the plant does not have a large number of leaves, then it needs less water. Larger root systems require more water.

Adjusting the amount of water

When watering, you must take into account the pot in which the plant is located, as well as know the quality of the drainage. If the anthurium is contained in a plastic container, where there is excellent drainage, then less water will be required for it. A flower in a pottery needs more moisture, because the clay absorbs moisture quite well.

Indoor anthurium must be watered abundantly during an intensive period of growth. During hibernation, much less water is needed. The plant should be watered until water appears in the pan. After 30 minutes, you should get rid of all the liquid from the pan to prevent rotting of the roots. Experts agree that epiphytic flowers, in which the roots protrude outwards. It is often necessary to spray the root system of such plants. You also need to know that these varieties are extremely demanding on an increased level of humidity.

How to properly water?

If you prefer to use the bottom method of watering a flower, through a tray, then it is best to combine it with the top method. This is required because drainage does not always allow water to reach the topsoil.

For irrigation, soft and settled water is required. To make the water softer, you need to use citric acid or lemon juice.

With insufficient watering, the development of anthurium slows down and its leaves fall.

The lower leaves dry up and then curl up. They begin to turn yellow and brown spots appear on the tips. The flowers begin to wither very quickly.

Excess moisture can also be quite simply determined for several reasons:

  1. The appearance of plaque on the petals.
  2. The root system becomes dehydrated and a brown tint appears.
  3. You can smell an unpleasant smell coming from the ground.
  4. Soft rotted areas appear on the flower.
  5. In addition, excessive moisture leads to slow flower growth.

Care

For abundant flowering, it is necessary to properly care for anthurium at home. Anthurium prefers bright light, only the plant pot must be removed from direct sunlight. In winter, for abundant flowering, it is optimal to create additional lighting. It is best to put a pot with anthurium on the western window.

In spring and summer, the plant should be fed once every two weeks. Fertilizers for aroids are well suited for this. It is also recommended to sometimes make foliar top dressing at the same time as watering.

In different types and varieties of anthurium, the shapes and sizes of the bedspread and cob are different. The cob can be longer or shorter than the bedspread, straight or spirally curled.

Anthurium cannot be called a very capricious plant, but just like Tradescantia grass, it will not grow and bloom. It needs a special approach - special soil, moderate watering, good lighting.

What to plant anthurium

One of the most important conditions for the successful cultivation of anthuriums is the correct choice of substrate. It should hold the plant well, retain moisture and nutrients, dry easily and allow air to pass through. At the same time, it should not quickly decompose, cake and compact.

Soil for anthurium:

1. Mix acidic soil like Azalea with peat, expanded clay, sphagnum, pine bark. The finished substrate must be loose, breathable, airy, and at the same time moisture-intensive. In such a substrate, anthurium feels great.
If one is not available, then the substrate is "begonia" + sphagnum + perlite. You can also add charcoal to this.

2. Most guidelines recommend growing anthuriums in a substrate composed of 1 part coarse soddy soil, 1 part coarse sand and 2-3 parts leaf humus with the addition of pieces of charcoal. However, such a substrate is far from optimal and requires annual replacement.

A good substrate is pine bark with a piece size of 2 to 5 cm, but it is applicable mainly in greenhouse culture, subject to regular top dressing. The best results are obtained by a substrate composed of 2 parts pumice (pieces 1 to 3 cm in size), 2 parts pine bark (pieces 2 to 5 cm in size), 1 part coarse fibrous peat and 1 part rotted horse manure. Such a substrate is well aerated, sufficiently moisture-absorbing and retains nutrients well. For young plants, smaller fractions of its components are used. Good results can also be obtained when using a substrate composed of equal parts of large expanded clay (2-3 cm in diameter), coarse peat and pine bark (2-3 cm fractions). Some growers use glass wool or slag wool, crushed coconut shells, charcoal, and even broken bricks to grow anthuriums.

3) Landing in clean moss

4) Transplanted into a substrate for bromeliads and orchids (or 1 part leaf, 1 part coniferous, 1 part peat land and 0.5 parts sand

For Anthurium, I make up the earth myself.
I take soil for violets, or you can use other soil for indoor flowers or aroids, add a little perlite + vermiculite + pine bark + moss + sunflower seed husks.
I change as needed. I take the pot not quite wide, but not deep, 2-3 cm more than the previous one.

Anthurium lighting

Anthurium quickly adapts to indoor conditions, does not like direct sunlight at noon, but requires a lot of light, and morning or evening sun is welcome.
I also met such information in the literature: Anthuriums are shade-tolerant and can be content with rather meager light conditions.

Growing Anthuriums for more than one year, I can say that they can be content with meager light conditions, but then you will get an unattractive appearance and will not see flowers. The cuttings become very long, stick out in all directions like sticks, the leaves are small, and the flowers are even smaller, if at all.
For Anthurium, any direction of windows is suitable except for the south, of course, you need to take into account the height of the floor, but if you really want to grow Anthurium on the south window, then you need to put it next to the window about 30-50 cm or on the windowsill, but then the window needs to be darkened.

If you have, on the contrary, northern windows, or there is shading from the street, then in winter the anthurium will be dark, and at high temperatures, this leads to the degeneration of the plant, the loss of a decorative appearance. Therefore, with such windows, from September to March, you need to turn on fluorescent lighting.

Watering

Watering during the period of active growth is moderate, but regular, with soft water, that is, as the top layer dries. I water and spray with boiled water, sometimes I take a shower.
There is an opinion - the soil should be constantly wet.
The most common mistake is overmoistening the substrate; in the damp substrate, the roots of Anthurium quickly rot, which can lead to the death of plants. Stagnation of water in the pan is unacceptable, it must be drained immediately after watering. Golden rule: it's better to overfill rather than overfill. Worst of all, mushroom mosquitoes start up in pots from constant dampness (whose larvae gnaw at the roots), pathogenic fungi and bacteria develop, and various spots bloom on the plant.

Air humidity

Anthurium grows well and blooms at high humidity.
It is recommended to spray regularly (morning and evening) with water, because. Anthuriums need very humid air. You can increase the humidity of the air by spreading a layer of sphagnum moss around the leaves, but make sure that it does not create increased dampness of the earth and does not accumulate moisture on the stems. When spraying, use only soft boiled water, otherwise white stains remain on the leaves.

Anthurium fertilizer

From March to August, feed the plant with fertilizer once every two weeks. At the beginning of the growing season, the anthurium is fertilized with a weak solution for decorative leafy plants, after 2-3 top dressings, fertilizers can be applied for decorative flowering plants (fertik-lux, agricola, uniflor-buton, pocon for flowering, etc.). Calculate the dose of fertilizer 2 times less than the recommended one.

Reproduction of anthurium

By dividing adult specimens or separating rooted side shoots. To do this, the bush taken out of the pot must be carefully cut with a knife, cut off the necessary part with a piece of rhizome. Try not to disturb the bulk of the roots. Sprinkle all large sections with crushed coal or sulfur (sold in pet supplies) to close the gate for infection. Planted parts in the first week to water carefully. Try not to divide the bushes and transplant on the hottest summer days.

Seed propagation is also possible. After cross-pollination (for this you must have two simultaneously flowering plants), the seeds ripen within 8 weeks, after which they must be planted immediately, as they quickly lose their viability. The soil is light from a mixture of vermiculite and peat in equal parts. Vermiculite can be replaced with coarse sand. The soil can be covered with a thin layer of sphagnum moss, and seeds can be sown in it. From above, evenly moisten from a spray bottle, cover with a film. Ventilate regularly to prevent mold build-up on the ground.

Pests and diseases of anthurium

Usually, anthuriums get sick a little and are little susceptible to pest damage. Most often these are scale insects and mealybugs. Sometimes ticks. Scale insects are especially dangerous, which multiply very quickly and require serious efforts to destroy them. Ticks are fought with means called acaricides (Apollo, Vermitek, Nissoran, etc.). With scale insects, mealybugs and other pests, including soil ones, the easiest way to deal with systemic insecticides is actara or confidor. Visible pests should be removed with a cotton swab or cotton swab dipped in alcohol.

Also, plants suffer greatly from excessive watering and poor drainage, leading to rotting of the root system. Root and stem rot caused by waterlogging of the substrate and low temperatures, as well as anthracnose. With anthracnose, the leaf blades begin to dry out from the edges, and with a strong lesion, the plants become exhausted and die. The fight against this disease requires perseverance, and it must be started at the first signs. In large collections, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments with fungicides, preferably systemic (foundazol).

Frequently Asked Questions about Anthurium

1. What should I pay attention to when growing Anthurium?

Answer: Anthuriums are kept at a temperature of at least 18 degrees in conditions of high humidity (daily spraying is necessary). Photophilous. The temperature of the soil cannot be lower than the ambient temperature, so it is better to use not ceramic, but plastic pots. Anthurium consumes a lot of water, so the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Anthurium Andre tolerates the sun better than Scherzer's anthurium, but it is better to darken it, it feels fine in bright light, but without the sun too, and it is better in a humid atmosphere. When spraying, try not to get large drops of water on the flowers - ugly spots will remain.

Such spots appear from systematic overflow, and very often are a sign of infection.

2. How to divide anthurium?

Answer: Be very careful! When dividing, the roots must be carefully untangled or cut with a knife. You can shed a little epin or root.

3. The plant requires repotting, but it is recommended to repot only in spring, what should I do?

Answer: The best thing to do now is transfer to a slightly larger pot than before, and carefully change the topsoil without exposing the roots, if possible. Good drainage and very loose soil is required. If there are aerial roots, lightly sprinkle them with the same soil or cover them with damp moss.

4. Yellow spots appeared on the leaves on Anthurium. Why does this happen, from hard water or from overfeeding with fertilizers?

Answer: If the spots are large - evenly over the entire surface of the leaf, and the leaves themselves are either smaller than the previous ones, or larger - then these are clear signs of an unbalanced fertilizer. If the spots are small and visible through the light, then it may be a spider mite.

5. Is it possible to transplant flowering anthurium?

Answer: Blooming flowers can not be transplanted, but only transshipped, i.e. without damaging the earthy coma, especially if the pot is small. And put the flower in a bright place.

6. How roots can be deepened during transplantation

Answer: They can and should be buried during transplantation, well, of course, you should not be zealous. Roots should definitely be covered. If you can’t deepen it, cover them with at least sphagnum. In anthuriums, even aerial roots are recommended to be wrapped in wet sphagnum ...

7. Anthurium does not bloom!

Answer: The path to success for anthuriums is this: in order for it to bloom, it must be at a temperature of at least 18 degrees around the clock, does not like direct sunlight, diffused light is needed. Watering is moderate, he really does not like drafts. Its pot must be slightly larger than its root system, otherwise it will not bloom! And, of course, a light fertilizer once a week.

One of the methods of decorating a house is the presence of indoor plants, including exclusive flowers.

A striking representative of the exclusive in the house is anthurium with its spectacular appearance and fragrant smell. If you were presented with or you independently purchased an anthurium, home care should be special, since its natural habitat is the tropics. Growing anthurium at home is not an easy task, but by following the basic rules, you can achieve results.

Short description

In the people, anthurium is called "male happiness." The reason why such a name appeared was the shape of the anthurium flower - a protruding large cob surrounded by a bright petal. This form evokes in people associations with one distinctive feature of the structure of the male body. But the imagination of the people did not stop there; anthurium is constantly acquiring new nicknames: “flamingo flower”, “tail flower”, “artist's palette”, etc.

It is interesting not only how anthurium blooms. In addition to the original flowers, it has colorful leaves: large plates of rich green in the form of a heart or an arrow. The smell of anthurium varies from fetid to fragrant, depending on its type and variety. Anthurium in an apartment or house grows up to 40 or even 70 cm in height.

When purchasing this spectacular flower, one must not forget about precautions: since the plant is poisonous, pets and small children must be protected from its poison.

Competent care

Anthurium can be provided with conditions as close to natural as possible, even in a typical apartment or private house.

Temperature regime

Anthurium needs warmth without drafts for life. For a comfortable existence, he needs a temperature in the region of 16-30 ° C, and in the spring and summer, the room should be above 20 °, and in cold weather - 16-18 °. Anthurium blooms at temperatures above average, so if you need its early flowering, you need to provide it with this increase in temperature.

Watering

Abundant watering of anthurium is contraindicated. It is better to water the anthurium with settled water at room temperature once every 3-4 days. Before watering, it is worth checking the soil moisture - sometimes it is better to dry the flower than to fill it. After watering in a pot or in a pan, there should be no water left.

Air humidity

“Male happiness” needs high humidity (above 80%), which is difficult to create at home without special devices. The main helpers here are a humidifier, a regular “shower” from a spray bottle and timely rubbing of the leaves. You can cover the upper roots, trunk and stems with sphagnum so that they retain moisture. The best option would be to use dishes with water in the immediate vicinity of the flowerpot: this is how the effect of water evaporation is most similar to the conditions of a tropical forest.

Lighting

Anthurium, like many representatives of the tropics, is a light-loving plant, but direct exposure to the sun's rays is contraindicated for it. The presence of soft, diffused light is necessary, so the pot is placed on the windowsills of windows facing the northwest or east. In the cold winter, "male happiness" especially needs light, but should not be exposed to directional sunlight. Incorrectly chosen lighting can be the reason why the leaves of the plant dry.

Soil selection

Anthurium requires slightly acidic soil (pH level is 5.5-6.5). There are several options for preparing a suitable soil:

  • a mixture of sand, peat, unsifted leafy soil and humus in a ratio of 0.5: 1: 1: 2 (finely chopped foam, charcoal or pieces of broken brick are used for optimal water and air permeability),
  • soil from soddy soil, sphagnum and peat in a ratio of 1: 1: 2 (add foam, perlite or coarse sand),
  • purchased soil and pine bark, mixed equally (usually such a mixture is used for orchids), an additional ingredient is moss.

top dressing

For better growth and development of anthurium during the period of growth and flowering, it is worth feeding it every 2-3 weeks. When top dressing, organic and mineral fertilizers are used in turn, only you need not to overdo it by using mineral salts or lime.

Pot selection

Capacity for any flowers must match their size. When a flower grows out of a small pot, a transplant is necessary. If a small plant is in a large pot, it will most likely be flooded. A giant, placed in a small dish, will not bloom and will cease to develop. The best option is flat and wide plastic flowerpots with several holes for drainage. In order for the roots to "breathe", it is advisable to make holes in the side parts of the pot at the time when the transplant is carried out.

Transplant and reproduction

At a young age, the anthurium needs a regular transplant, and at first you will have to deal with the relocation of the flower annually, and then only once every 3-4 years, and each time the plant will need to be settled deeper and deeper. Anthurium transplantation is possible even when it blooms. Since it has very fragile roots, stems and leaves, the transplant should be as gentle as possible.

When transplanting, it is especially important to monitor the safety of the roots. If they are damaged, they should be sprinkled with activated charcoal to disinfect them.

When the transplant is completed, it is better not to water the anthurium for some time (covered with polyethylene to create the effect of a greenhouse) or water it quite a bit.

Reproduction of anthurium at home involves several options:

One of the options is used when a transplant is carried out. Anthurium is taken out of the pot, separating the side shoots from the main one and carefully unraveling the roots so as not to damage the root system.

Another option - propagation by seeds - is a very laborious, lengthy and not always effective process:

  • first, it is necessary to carry out artificial pollination, for which pollen is transferred from flower to flower with an ordinary brush,
  • when the fruits-berries ripen (about a year later), they must be collected,
    then you need to remove the seeds from the berries and rinse them under running water,
  • then the seeds must be placed in potassium permanganate for several hours to prevent mold,
  • for germination, the seeds are placed on wet foam rubber, which is then placed in a small container and covered with polyethylene,
  • germinated seeds will be planted in the ground and swooped several times,
  • when the seedling grows to 7 cm, it can already be planted in a pot with suitable soil.

Possible problems

Although for the happiness of "male happiness" you need to try, illness is a rarity for him. Some mistakes in care can be the reason why the plant dies, but anthurium has practically no diseases as such. Individual phenomena are the consequences of certain errors in cultivation:

  • the leaves are covered with small black dots or spots - the anthurium is cold,
  • spots appear on the petal - water accidentally got on it,
  • the edges of the leaves have turned black - the soil is not suitable (an urgent transplant is needed),
  • rotten roots and the base of the leaves are visible - the plant is watered excessively,
  • leaves dry and turn yellow - wrong light (leaves dry with any mistake: both from the direct influence of the sun and from lack of light),
  • an adult plant does not bloom for a long time - the pot is incorrectly selected (a transplant into a flowerpot is required that is suitable in size).

Diseases can be associated with the activity of pests: scale insects, mealybugs, aphids, spider mites. To protect the anthurium from attack, it is necessary to regularly wipe its stems and leaves with water.

From the outside, caring for an anthurium seems very difficult, but it will not be difficult for responsible housewives to grow a healthy plant at home that will become a real decoration of the house.

  • household humidifiers;

  • leaf ground;
  • sand;

  • cut off damaged roots;

Anthurium care - video

Anthurium, or as it is called in the common people “male happiness”, is one of the most common plants from the Aroid family cultivated indoors.

It is native to the tropical forests of South America.

Among more than 800 plant species of this family, there are both epiphytes and semi-epiphytes, which are quite different in appearance.

This flamingo flower gained popularity in indoor floriculture due to its unusual appearance: species diversity is represented by both decorative leafy and flowering plants.

Among flower growers, anthurium is considered a "capricious sissy": it needs careful and regular care. In order for this flamingo flower to please with its beauty, it is important to create conditions for it that are close to a tropical climate: high humidity, high air temperature and bright diffused lighting. The most suitable for growing at home are the following types:

Anthurium Andre- a flower with bright green shiny leaves. Reaches 1 m in height. The bract has a heart-shaped shape, depending on the variety it is red (Arizona), white (Chempion, Acropolis, Polaris), pink (Pink Champion), salmon (Minnesota), yellow (Casino, Marasol), green (Manaka), purple (Sensa). Inflorescences last up to 5 weeks.

Anthurium Scherzer- epiphyte with shortened stems and matte leaves, covered on both sides with black specks. The cob has a curved spiral shape. The elliptical coverlet is bent down. It is considered one of the easiest anthuriums to grow indoors.

Anthurium Crystal- decorative leafy type of anthurium. Spectacular due to the contrast created by the grid of silvery shiny veins against the background of dark green leaves, velvety to the touch.

Anthurium: home care - reproduction

At home, anthurium is propagated by seeds and vegetatively.

seed method the most labor-intensive and time-consuming, but allows you to get new plant hybrids. Seeds can be purchased from specialized garden stores or you can get your own. In the latter option, you will have to artificially pollinate anthurium flowers, transferring pollen with a cotton swab or soft brush from one cob to another. Seeds will mature 9-12 months after pollination. The degree of maturity is determined by the change in color of the berries on the cob and the bract (it turns green). They should be sown immediately after harvest, because they quickly lose their germination capacity. Pre-seed material is treated with a fungicide solution. For sowing, take shallow bowls with light soil. Landings are watered by spraying from a spray bottle. For germination, the bowls must be placed in a greenhouse or covered with glass. Shoots appear by the end of 2 weeks. In the true leaf phase, the seedlings dive into separate pots. Leafy soil with the addition of peat, charcoal, crushed pine bark (in equal proportions) is suitable as a planting soil. Seedlings are kept at high humidity and air temperature + 20-24ºС. Plants grown from seeds bloom after 2-2.5 years with small flowers and may lose varietal characteristics. Full cobs will be only for 4-5 years of life.

The easiest way to propagate anthurium is by dividing the bush, cuttings, side shoots.

split the bush most convenient when transplanting a plant. Each division must have roots and a growing point. Such plants may bloom this year.

As the bush grows older, the anthurium grows lateral offspring. They can be easily separated along with the roots from the mother liquor and immediately planted in prepared pots. If there are no roots, then the shoots are rooted in sand or perlite. The cuttings are placed in a greenhouse or covered with bags to provide high humidity.

Side shoots with roots

Some types of "male happiness" (Andre, Scherzer, leathery, etc.) can propagate by leaf, which is cut with a petiole about 3 cm long. To reduce evaporation, the leaf blade itself is twisted into a tube and fixed with an elastic band. The prepared cutting is planted in a substrate of sand and peat (1: 1) or cut sphagnum moss, moistened and covered with a jar or bag and placed in a greenhouse. The cuttings are aired daily. After the appearance of a new sprout, the seedling is transplanted into a separate pot in a month.

Transfer

Young plants are transplanted as they grow annually. Adult specimens are transshipped every three to four years. Do this during the active growing season from February to August. Anthurium does not tolerate stagnant moisture, therefore, when transplanting, a thick layer of drainage is necessary at the bottom of the planting pots. The size of the new pot should be slightly larger than the previous one. Otherwise, overmoistening and souring of the substrate is possible, which contributes to root rot. The roots of "male happiness" are quite fragile, so care must be taken when transferring the bush to a new container. Plastic pots are better suited for anthuriums - it is easier to maintain the balance of air and soil temperature in them than when using ceramic containers. A purchased flowering plant can be transplanted only after it has completely faded.

Anthurium: home care - soil, lighting, humidity, conditions for flowering

The soil

For the cultivation of anthurium, a loose, moisture-permeable aerated substrate with slightly acidic reactions (pH = 5-6) is required. At the same time, it should not cake and compact. It is made from the following components: peat, cut sphagnum moss, turf or hardwood in proportions of 2:2:1. You can add crushed pine bark, coconut fiber for looseness. Anthurium also grows well in hydroponics.

Lighting

The flamingo flower feels great in bright diffused light. The optimal placement of plants on the windowsills of the eastern and western directions. On the southern windows it is necessary to provide for shading from the direct sun.

Temperature regime

In summer, the temperature range of + 20-28ºС will be optimal for the growth of anthurium. In the autumn-winter period, the temperature is reduced to + 15-16ºС. Some hybrids (for example, Scherzer) need a cooler regime (+ 12-16ºС) with a simultaneous reduction in watering in order to lay flower buds in winter. It is important to avoid sudden changes in temperature and drafts. In order for the tropical "flamingo" to bloom earlier, from January they begin to gradually raise the temperature to + 20-25ºС.

Air humidity

Like all epiphytes, anthurium loves high humidity (up to 95%). In residential areas it is difficult to achieve such an indicator. Although the modern varieties of anthuriums Andre and Scherzer are quite resistant to the dry air of apartments, nevertheless, they must be sprayed daily with warm settled water, wipe the leaves with a damp cloth, and cover the aerial roots with sphagnum moss. At the same time, do not allow droplets of moisture to fall on the flowers, otherwise unsightly brown spots form on them. Once a month, you can give green pets a warm shower, after covering the substrate with roots with polyethylene. To increase the humidity of the air, it is recommended to place pots with plants on a pallet with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

Conditions for flowering

In favorable conditions, anthurium can bloom for almost a whole year. The lack of flowering indicates errors in care:

The rest period is not observed - for laying flower buds, anthurium needs a cool winter content at + 15-16ºС and reduced watering;

In autumn and winter, feeding should be stopped, and, starting in February, resumed.

The lack of natural lighting, especially in winter, must be filled with phytolamps;

Incorrectly selected pot size - in a large container, the plant will not bloom until the roots fill the entire earthen volume. In this case, the anthurium is transplanted into a tighter pot.

In the old substrate, the plant does not have enough nutrients to force the buds. Therefore, it must be updated annually.

Low temperatures also prevent anthurium from flowering. To remove the plant from the dormant period, it must be gradually increased to + 20ºС, starting in February.

During the flowering period, all faded inflorescences should be cut off.

Anthurium: home care - feeding and watering

Watering

Anthuriums are watered abundantly, but it is important not to flood the root system. By the next watering, the substrate should dry out by half the volume of the pot. Irrigation water is used settled during the day (and even better filtered), at room temperature. Excess moisture from the pan is drained immediately after watering. To stimulate abundant winter flowering from September, watering is reduced. At the same time, the air temperature is reduced to + 16-18ºС.

top dressing

Anthuriums are fertilized during the active growing season 1 time in 14-20 days. Due to the increased sensitivity of this Tropican to excess lime and mineral salts, fertilizers are applied at half the dose recommended on the package. As an organic fertilizer, the surface of the substrate is mulched with leaf humus or watered once a month with infusion of mullein or chicken manure (1:10). During the flowering period, phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are applied for ornamental flowering plants (Agricola series, Bona forte, Pokon, Baikal, etc.).

Anthurium: home care: why is he dying? The main problems, diseases and pests in the cultivation of anthurium

Anthurium in room conditions most often dies from improper care.

Waterlogging of the substrate and low air temperature provoke the development of various root and stem rots caused by pathogenic soil fungi. Most common anthracnose- a disease in which brown spots appear on the leaves and stems. As the process develops, the leaves turn completely brown and dry, the ground part of the plant dies off. In the initial stage of anthracnose, the infected parts of the plant are removed, and it is sprayed with a fungicide (Oxyx, Acrobat MC) according to the instructions.

Anthracnose anthurium

Another "fungal scourge" of anthurium is white rot. It is characterized by discoloration of the lower leaves with the appearance of a white coating on them. Black sclerotia of the fungus are visible on the cut of the stem. Plant infection occurs through damaged roots. The disease progresses rapidly at low air temperatures or sudden changes in temperature with high humidity. For the treatment of diseased plants, contact fungicides (Oxyhom, Bordeaux mixture) or combined action (Rovral, Fundazol, Skor, Previkur, Profit) are used.

Of the pests, frequent guests of anthurium spider mites, scale insects, thrips. To combat them, acaricides (Akarin, Sunmite, Apollo, Actellik), insecticides (Admiral, Aktara, Biotlin, Confidor Extra) are used.

If the bush began to fall sideways, the young leaves are sluggish, and the old ones are covered with black-brown spots, then this indicates an intense rotting of the root system. With a strongly launched process, it will not be possible to save the plant. If healthy tissues remain, then they are cut off, sprayed with a fungicide, wrapped in wet sphagnum and placed in a greenhouse for rooting.

Have the tips of the leaves turned brown? This suggests that the water for irrigation is saturated with hardness salts. Use filtered or boiled water.

If the lower leaves have turned brown, then this means that the plant is overfed with fertilizers. In this case, the anthurium must be transplanted into a new substrate or the old one should be washed and feeding should be stopped for a period of at least 30 days. Further fertilize with half the dose recommended on the package.

Do anthurium leaves curl? This happens if the plant is in direct sun, in a draft or low humidity.

Deformed flowers and leaves can be caused by plant damage by pests, lack of lighting, low temperature and humidity.

The appearance of small green blisters on the leaves is just a special physiological state of anthurium. This happens at high humidity and low temperatures. It is recommended to reduce watering and rearrange the plant in a warm place.

Sometimes you can notice that the anthurium is "crying" - droplets of water drip from the leaves. Do not be afraid: this natural process, characteristic of many Tropicans, is called guttation. The plant, thus, through the special water stomata of the leaves gets rid of excess moisture after abundant watering and low light.

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Anthuriums, brought to Europe back in the 19th century, only at the end of the last century attracted the close attention of lovers of indoor floriculture. Today, almost 30 species and 80 hybrid varieties of anthurium are at the disposal of everyone who is not indifferent to representatives of the tropical flora.

Among the plants grown indoors, there are not only flowering crops, but also interesting lianas, as well as decorative leafy species that attract attention not with inflorescences, but with variegated expressive foliage.

Moreover, all these dissimilar species are anthuriums that require the creation of a comfortable atmosphere and regular care. Since the growing conditions for natives of the tropics of South America are quite close, the indoor care for anthuriums has many common features.

Temperature conditions for growing anthurium

Anthuriums are considered unpretentious plants, and while maintaining comfortable conditions for them, they delight with bright elastic foliage and frequent flowering. The inhabitants of the tropics perfectly settle down on the windowsills of ordinary apartments, being content with a temperature of about 22–24 ° C. In cool periods, when the temperature background in the house drops, in the air that has cooled to 15–17 ° C. A slight decrease in temperature is possible at night, as well as in winter, if the plant falls into a period of relative dormancy.

Anthurium does not like sudden changes in temperature, drafts and cold winds.

When caring for an anthurium at home, you can reduce the risk of root rot in a plant located on a cold windowsill. To do this, the pot can be raised, or a layer of foam insulation can be made under it.

Lighting as part of the care of indoor anthurium

Growing in the shade of larger plants, anthuriums easily tolerate shade, and in bright sun they can seriously suffer. The best place for both bright flowering and deciduous forms is the east and west windows. If this is not possible, you can create the proper conditions for growing anthurium on the south window by shading the pot or moving it away from the glass deep into the room.

On warm summer days, anthuriums are useful to take out into the air, providing plants with protection from strong winds, direct sunlight and precipitation.

The poor health of the plant due to excess sun is signaled by brown drying burns on the leaf plates and the rapid drying of the soil surface.

But the lack of light is indicated by the yellowing of the foliage, its pallor and excessive elongation of the cuttings. This happens on the north side and also in winter. The organization of additional lighting not only helps to establish care for indoor anthurium, but also stimulates its flowering.

Watering anthurium at home

Novice flower growers sometimes have the erroneous opinion that tropical plants require abundant and frequent watering. And as a result of such improper care, anthuriums at home suffer from excessive soil moisture. In fact, when watering plants of the Aroid family, it is important to know when to stop.

Both excessive watering and the maintenance of green pets in a dry substrate are harmful.

At the same time, waterlogging of the soil is more dangerous, since it can cause rotting of the root system and the development of late blight. Therefore, especially in the anthurium contained in a cool room, the moisture that has drained into the pan must be removed. And between waterings, the top layer of soil should become almost dry.

On hot summer days and in a heated room, if the flower is grown under artificial lighting, indoor anthurium care should include more frequent watering and foliage treatment with a damp sponge. Such a measure will not only improve the appearance of the plant, but also make it easier to breathe.

Plants react to excessive hardness of irrigation water, as well as to excessive watering, by the appearance of black or dark brown spots on the leaf plates.

As a result of such a mistake in care, anthurium develops worse at home, and the affected foliage can no longer fully fulfill its functions. Moisture can be softened by adding a little citric acid. For irrigation use warm settled or melted water.

Air humidity for anthurium

Much more than soil moisture, high moisture content in the air is important for anthurium.

To create the necessary growing conditions for anthurium, it is necessary to take care of the humidity of the atmosphere at the level of 75–85%. For this you can use:

  • irrigation of the green part with warm water;
  • household humidifiers;
  • improvised means, including placing a pot with a plant in a pallet filled with wet gravel.

To prevent the leaves from becoming stained and blackened in a cool room, it is important to monitor their dryness. The same applies to inflorescences, often suffering from improper room care for anthurium. Water should not be allowed to enter the decorative foliage of anthuriums, which have not smooth, but matte textured leaves.

During the heating season, varieties and types of anthurium that are sensitive to dry air can be transferred closer to water sources, for example, to decorative fountains in well-lit bathrooms.

Anthurium soil requirements

In order for the anthurium to bloom, grow and bear fruit well at home, as in the photo, it needs the lightest possible structured substrate with an acidity level of pH 5.5–6.0 units. Since the roots of many Anthurium species are adapted to absorb moisture and nutrients and air and small accumulations of humus on the trunks and roots of large trees, they will not be comfortable in a dense, heavy soil mixture and may rot.

For the manufacture of soil mixture, you can use:

  • high-moor peat, cleaned of foreign inclusions;
  • leaf ground;
  • sand;
  • bark of coniferous trees, previously boiled and crushed.

Two parts of earth and peat will require one part of sand and bark. Crushed charcoal can be added to the soil, which will not only positively affect the structure of the mixture, but also serve to disinfect the soil. A good additive for epiphytic anthuriums is sphagnum moss and perlite, which loosens any ready-made soil mixture from the store.

The details of planting, watering and creating other conditions for the plant will tell a video on how to care for anthurium at home. Having basic ideas about the life of a tropical culture, and striving to regularly pay attention to your pet, you can admire indoor anthurium for a long time with a minimum of zeal.

The best containers for anthuriums that form powerful aerial roots are small plastic pots with a mandatory drainage hole. In a pot for planting a houseplant, it is very important to arrange a powerful drainage layer so that moisture does not remain in the lower part of the earthy coma, but is removed.

If anthurium is planted in an orchid mix for growing at home, the plant will need more frequent feeding, or a little decontaminated garden soil should be added to the soil.

When caring for indoor anthurium during intensive growth and flowering, it needs to be fed. The procedure is carried out twice a month, using ready-made products or alternating organic and mineral supplements. Plants that are sent to rest for the winter period are not fed at this time, and their watering is reduced. But by lengthening the daylight hours to 12-14 hours, you can get a constant flowering of anthurium. In this case, the schedule of fertilizing and watering does not change in the winter months.

Anthurium does not need frequent transplants. But when the roots completely occupy the entire volume of the pot, at home, as in the photo, the anthurium is transplanted into a larger container. To do this, the anthurium is transferred to a new pot, and the gaps on the sides are covered with a fresh substrate. Update the top layer of soil.

Most often, a healthy plant, excluding young specimens, needs a transplant after 2-3 years.

Another thing is if the anthurium shows signs of ill health. It is important here not only to transfer the earthen clod, but to clear the remnants of the soil:

  • check the status of the root system;
  • cut off damaged roots;
  • process the cuts with crushed coal.

When choosing pots, you should not give preference to too large containers. Otherwise, the anthurium, which has fallen into a large earthen ball, will not bloom until the roots have mastered the “spaces” allotted to them.

In addition, moisture not absorbed by the roots remains in the soil and more often causes the appearance of mold, the development of fungi and soil pests.

An excessively deep planting of the plant can also lead to rotting of the stem. In order for the pet to keep better in the ground, supports can be arranged for it, which are especially useful when creating growing conditions for anthurium in the form of a liana. The place where the stem comes out of the ground, if the plant rises slightly above the ground, can be sprinkled or compacted with sphagnum. In this case, wet moss provokes the development of additional roots.

When caring for indoor anthurium, it is also important to remember that plant sap can cause irritation, so it is best to carry out all manipulations with roots and leaves with gloves.

Anthurium care - video

Do you want to create an exotic corner in your apartment? Planting anthurium at home and further care for this flower will require a lot of work, but beauty will pay for all the trouble. What other houseplant blooms for 3 months and delights you with an absolutely fantastic flower shape? From the receptacle peeps out a long cob, wrapped in a fancy veil. Thanks to the work of breeders, Anthurium impresses with a variety of varieties and colors. They even managed to give the cob the shape of a loop, and around the twisted rod is a heart-shaped veil. It is best to grow tropical flowers in greenhouses, where you can create a suitable microclimate for them, or in closed arboretums.

flower reproduction

If you want to purchase a finished plant, carefully consider the selected specimen. The leaves should be without damage and stains, with a smooth shiny surface. Healthy plants should not have brown spots on the leaf covering the ears. After purchase, keep the flower on the windowsill for 2 days, where it will live permanently, and provide it with a humid atmosphere and good care. On the third day, it is imperative to plant the anthurium in fresh soil: a pot with store soil is not intended for long-term cultivation at home.

You can propagate the flower by dividing the bush. When transplanting, remove the plant from the vessel, shake off its roots from the ground. Very carefully separate the stem with part of the root system from the main plant with your hands. Do not use knives or other sharp tools for work: after cuts, the anthurium is sick for a long time and may die. Before planting a new flower, dip its underground part in a growth stimulator.

You can cut off the upper part of the shoot with aerial roots and grow a new flower from it. This technique is often used at home, when the plant is many years old and its leaves and flowers, despite good care, become small. If the roots are sufficiently developed, you can immediately plant the flower in a pot of earth, and if they are just about to hatch, put the shoot in warm water for germination. The temperature of the liquid should not be higher than 20⁰, otherwise the lower part will begin to rot. You can not use a jar of water, but wrap the lower part of the stem with wet moss in advance. When you see the root processes breaking through, cut off the stalk, sprinkle the wound with crushed coal and plant it in the ground.

If you wish, you can try to get and germinate the seeds. It will be necessary to pollinate the flower artificially, with a brush, then wait for the fruit to appear and collect the grains. The seed is kept for 2 hours in a pale pink solution of potassium permanganate, and then sown in the ground. Shoots will have to wait about 2 months, and flowers - 4 years.

Anthurium has poisonous juice that irritates the skin and mucous membranes. Wear gloves when handling the flower and avoid touching your eyes and lips until you wash your hands.


Take a low wide pot and fill it 1/3 with drainage material. Place the anthurium roots on top and start filling the vessel with soil. The roots of the plant are very fragile, it is necessary to compact the earth carefully. Sprinkle a small layer, moisten and shake lightly so that there are no voids. The soil should be loose, well permeable to air and moisture, with an acidity (Рн) of 5.5 to 6.5.

It is better to purchase a special mixture for anthuriums or orchids in flower shops, but you can mix:

  • humus - 4 parts;
  • peat - 2 parts;
  • leaf ground - 2 parts;
  • sand - 1 part.

Add crushed charcoal, fragments of cones, moss to the mixture - up to 15% of the volume. After planting, the flower should be watered abundantly and after 15 minutes, drain the excess liquid from the pan. Spray the leaves with warm water and keep the plant in the shade for a few days. Until the flower takes root, provide it with proper care at home and spray more often.

It is better to grow anthurium in plastic flower pots. This material holds heat well, in it the soil remains warm at night for a long time, and during the day it does not heat up much.

Conditions for keeping anthurium

The southern guest is very demanding on the conditions of his residence, but he will thank for the caring care with an unusual flowering. The plant needs good lighting, but the hot sun is contraindicated. If in the middle of the day the rays hit the window, shade the flower from burns. In the winter months at home, it is desirable to highlight the plants with lamps with a predominance of blue and red spectrum. In summer, bushes develop well at temperatures from 20⁰ to 25⁰, in winter cooler air is needed: 16-18⁰.

Anthurium needs high humidity. If your apartment is very dry, make life easier for both people and plants - install a humidifier. You can put the pot next to a bowl filled with sea pebbles and keep the pebbles constantly wet, or overlay the surface of the soil with moss, which must be sprayed with a spray bottle as it dries.

In summer, make sure that the soil in the pot does not dry out, water with settled soft water. In winter, before watering, the topsoil should dry to a depth of about 1 cm. The plant loves to be sprayed. Hard tap water is not suitable for this procedure, add a drop of vinegar to the liquid, wait a few minutes for the reaction to take place, and pour only the upper part without sediment into the sprayer. Spray should only fall on the leaves, but not on the buds and flowers, on which stains appear from drops of liquid. Give the plant a boost in early spring by watering it once with water at around 45⁰. Such a procedure at home activates the development after winter dormancy, and the anthurium will bloom more magnificently.

Proper care includes feeding. Do not let your pet overeat, excess nutrients are harmful to him. It is especially dangerous to overdo it with mineral fertilizers. Use a special top dressing for anthurium and strictly follow the dosage indicated in the instructions. You need to feed at home every 15 days, and once a month spray the leaves with liquid fertilizer.

Anthurium should be transplanted at least once every 2 years. If you are not going to separate part of the flower, take a pot 3-5 cm wider and 3 cm deeper than the previous one. From time to time, look at the drainage holes: if roots appear from there, transplant, even if the time has not come. Take out the plant, carefully shake off the roots from the old soil, divide the bush if necessary. Then proceed in the same way as when landing. Be attentive to your pet for several days, proper care at home will help him quickly settle down in a new place.

What is the exotic guest dissatisfied with?

The flower is very capricious, but he himself will tell you what he does not like. Often the cause of problems is improper care. Look closely at all the changes in the appearance of the plant, and you will understand where you made mistakes. Anthurium loves moist air, but not waterlogged soil. If you notice black dots on the leaves, reduce watering and make sure that there is no water in the pan. If the blackening grows, the roots are affected by gray rot. Remove the plant from the soil, inspect the root system and remove rotting shoots. Plant a flower in new soil and spill with a solution of light pink potassium permanganate.

What else can a plant living at home complain about?

  • The leaves curl, but do not change color - there is not enough air humidity, spray the flower more often.
  • The leaves curl up and light spots appear on them - a sunburn. Shade the anthurium or move it to another place.
  • The leaves sag, the tips turn yellow or turn brown - the pot is in a draft, the room is cold or there are sudden changes in temperature. Create a comfortable environment for the plant.
  • The leaves become small, turn yellow, the bush does not bloom well - there is not enough nutrition, you need to transplant the flower into fresh soil.
  • Lush greenery, but the plant does not bloom - too nutritious soil, transplant into a pot with less fertile soil and stop feeding for a month.

Anthuriums can be attacked by pests:

  • scab;
  • spider mite;
  • mealybug.

Conclusion

Caring for anthurium at home takes time and effort. If you often leave for several days, forget to water and feed your green pets, it is better to plant more hardy and unpretentious plants on the windowsill. The main beauty of a tropical guest appears during flowering, create the right conditions for him, so as not to be disappointed at the sight of a stunted rod with a spotted bedspread.

It is best to grow anthurium in greenhouses. If this is not possible, purchase a room arboretum. You can keep the flower at home on the windowsill, but then you need to constantly monitor the temperature, humidity and illumination of the room. The overseas guest wants to show you all his splendor, help him get used to the new conditions.

Anthuriums are a numerous genus of plants of tropical origin, cultivated indoors since the second half of the last century. Among flower lovers, it is extremely popular due to its beautiful foliage, spectacular flowering and ease of care.

Species and varieties

Of the 900 species of plants of the genus Anthurium, 3 are cultivated under artificial conditions: Andre's anthurium, Scherzer's anthurium and Crystal anthurium.

Anthurium Andre

It is characterized by a shortened trunk, to which, with the help of long (up to 35 cm) and curved cuttings, large (25-30 cm with a width of 8 to 13 cm) oval-lanceolate leaves are attached. When flowering, it forms an inflorescence - an ear up to 10 cm long of yellow hues, surrounded by a bract of red, pink, salmon or white tones.

The species is the ancestor of dozens of varieties that differ in the color of the bract. On the basis of this sign, they are usually combined into groups. In room conditions, white and red varieties are most often grown.

  • Among the white varieties, White Champion, White Champion, Sumi and the white-pink variety Princess Amalia Elegance are popular.
  • From the group of reds - Dakota, Sierra Magic and Turenza.

Anthurium Scherzer

It stands out among its relatives with a spirally twisted cob, surrounded by a large red-orange bract and leaves on long (6-25 cm) cylindrical petioles.

Leaf blades are elongated (linear or lanceolate), pointed, with a blunt or wedge-shaped base, painted in dark shades of green and pubescent. The top side is glossy, the bottom is matte.

Popular varieties:

  • Lacetti with salmon shades bedspread;
  • Grafitti with a light, red-speckled bract;
  • Hawaii, the bedspread of which is painted in 2 or 3 colors;
  • Alexia Blue with a bract of gentle, sky-blue tones.

Anthurium Crystal

Valued for the beauty of long-stalked oval leaves of dark green color with light veins. The spadix is ​​greenish-yellow.

Varieties grown indoors:

  • Hooker, with large green, with small black spots, leaves and purple or dirty purple flowers.
  • Stately, with beautiful dark green velvety and textured foliage laced with olive veins.
  • Climbing, with creeping or clinging shoots bearing oval-elongated leathery leaves. The decorativeness of this variety is provided by attractive-looking fruits - berries in shades of orange, red, purple and white.

Anthurium flower - growing features

The homeland of Anthurium is the tropical forests of the American continent, where there is a lot of light, warm and humid. Therefore, the flower needs conditions that are as close to natural as possible. This is the key to his comfortable existence in the room.

Most artificially grown species slow down the vegetation in autumn and rest in winter, needing coolness and short daylight hours.

Anthurium care at home

The flower is easy to grow.

Care for him consists in watering, top dressing and infrequent transplantation.

Lighting, temperature control

Anthuriums love bright diffused light. In direct sunlight, its flowers and leaves burn out. The lack of light leads to excessive stretching and exposure of the shoots.

In addition to good lighting, the plant needs warm air. The flower is comfortable at room temperatures from 22 to 25 ° C. Slight (17-20 °C) coolness at night is allowed.

The flower does not tolerate stagnant air and drafts.

Soil Requirements

For growing anthurium, a nutritious, light, loose and moisture-intensive substrate with a neutral environment (5.5-6.0) is suitable. It can be based on purchased soil for azaleas with the addition of broken brick or perlite. The soil mixture can be prepared independently.

There are several options for its composition:

  • peeled high-moor peat, leafy soil, sand, crushed and pre-steamed bark of coniferous trees, crushed charcoal (2: 2: 1: 0.5: 0.5);
  • rotted horse manure, fibrous peat, pine bark, fine pumice (1:1:1:1);
  • expanded clay, fibrous peat, pine bark (1:1:1);
  • peat, finely chopped sphagnum, sod land (2:2:1);
  • peat, coconut fiber, pine bark, charcoal, chopped sphagnum moss (1:1:1:0.5:1).

Before use, in order to avoid root infections and damage, the substrate is disinfected.

Watering and humidity

Anthurium equally poorly tolerates a lack and excess of moisture, so a properly selected irrigation regime is important for it.

  • In the heat of summer and winter in a heated room, the flower is often watered. The frequency of moistening is determined by the drying of the topsoil.
  • In winter, with an artificial lengthening of daylight hours and keeping the flower warm, the moisture regime is not changed.
  • In preparation for rest (autumn), watering is gradually reduced, reducing to a minimum by winter (1 time per month).

Humidification is carried out with warm (2-3 degrees higher than the ambient temperature) settled or pre-boiled water, under the roots.

Top dressing and fertilizer

During active growth and flowering (spring and autumn), the anthurium is fed 2 times a month, alternating the use of organic and mineral fertilizers. As mineral additives, special products for orchids are used.

Anthurium responds well to weekly foliar feeding with any complex fertilizer.

Anthurium transplant

Anthurium needs transplants, the frequency of which is determined by its age:

  • Young (up to 4 years old) forms grow rapidly and therefore need an annual transplant, which includes replacing the container with a slightly larger one.
  • Adult specimens are transplanted 1 time in 2-3 years.

The grounds for transplanting an adult flower are:

  • complete filling of the pot space with roots;
  • acidification of the soil;
  • diseases of the root system.

In most cases, anthurium transplantation is carried out by transshipment. The exception is plants with diseased roots.

Before the procedure, the flower is watered abundantly. The earth ball should be completely saturated with moisture.

After that:

  • a layer of drainage is laid at the bottom of the tank;
  • about a third of the volume of the pot is covered with soil;
  • an earthen clod with a plant is installed in the center of the container, the voids are filled with the remaining substrate.

The transplanted anthurium is placed in the shade for 3-4 days.

Transplantation of diseased plants is carried out after the roots are previously released from the ground, they are inspected and unhealthy areas are removed.

For growing anthurium, plastic or glass wide, shallow containers are used.

It is better not to use ceramic pots: the roots of anthurium grow into their surface.

rest period

From the end of autumn and all winter, the anthurium rests.

At this time, there is active work at the cellular level. The plant forms flower buds. The decorative effect of future flowering depends on their quantity and quality. That is why it is so important to provide such a period for this flower.

For laying flower buds, coolness and short daylight hours are needed.

At room content, these conditions are created artificially:

  • in autumn, the flower is transferred to a cooler place;
  • gradually reduce the intensity of watering;
  • stop feeding.

Reproduction of anthurium

The plant under discussion among flower growers is also known under the name "male happiness". And you always want more happiness! Anthurium reproduces by seeds and vegetatively.

Growing from seeds is difficult, since planting material is very rare for sale. Self-obtaining differs in duration and does not guarantee germination. Therefore, anthurium is extremely rarely propagated by seeds - only to obtain new hybrids.

Vegetative propagation is easier and faster. It allows you to get new plants with the preservation of all the signs of the mother form.

It is carried out using:

  • cuttings;
  • basal shoots;
  • layering;
  • dividing the bush.

cuttings

The most common way is to grow anthurium from their apical and stem cuttings. Their preparation is carried out in spring and summer, cutting off side shoots.

  • Tops of shoots up to 10 cm long with 1-2 pairs of leaves are used as apical cuttings. The rest of the branch is freed from foliage and divided into parts of 5-8 cm. These are stem cuttings.
  • Apical cuttings are rooted in settled water at room temperature or a substrate consisting of perlite and clean sand, covering the containers with a transparent airtight material.
  • Stem - in wet sand, perlite or moss, covering containers with glass or film.
  • For the growth of roots, the cuttings need heat (from 20 ° C) and light. Landings are aired daily. The soil is moistened as it dries.

Under these conditions, the roots form after 3 weeks. After the leaves appear, young plants are transplanted into separate containers and cared for as adults.

In the upper part of the shoots of some types of anthurium, aerial roots form. Their presence greatly simplifies the procedure. Such a cutting is planted immediately with a soil mixture.

Reproduction by root shoots

An adult plant actively builds up lateral shoots, often extending immediately from the rhizome. This is the root shoot. In spring or summer, it can be carefully separated and planted in separate containers filled with substrate.

Layering or side shoots

In comparison with the previous options, a less laborious, but longer method of obtaining new plants.

To carry it out, part of the anthurium shoot is freed from leaves and covered with wet sphagnum, covered with plastic wrap on top.

Within 3-4 months, roots form under a layer of moss. The escape site is separated and planted in an individual pot.

The division of the bush

Adult and strongly overgrown bushes are subject to division. It is carried out from the second half of February to May, often combined with a transplant. The method is also good as a rejuvenating procedure.

If at this time the anthurium blooms, then the flower stalks are cut out, which will significantly reduce the loss of strength and speed up the adaptation of the plant.

To carry out the manipulation, several sequential actions are performed:

  1. A plentifully watered flower is removed from the container;
  2. The roots are freed from the ground, straightened, untwisted and inspected. All diseased and questionable areas are excised. Sections are disinfected with crushed coal.
  3. With a sharp tool, the rhizome is divided into several (from 2 to 5) parts that have roots. Each planted in a separate container.

Pests

Anthurium, like other houseplants, is susceptible to pest attacks. The most dangerous are rapidly breeding sucking insects: aphids, scale insects, spider mites and mealybugs.

Pests settle on the surface of leaves and shoots, feed on the juices of the plant, causing it to turn yellow and dry.

Insects are washed off with soapy water. Processing is carried out several times. In case of low efficiency, insecticides are used.

Possible diseases

With gross and prolonged violations of the conditions of detention and improper care, the anthurium weakens and often gets sick. There are quite a few diseases to which it is susceptible, but this is not a reason to refuse to grow or treat it.

  • Anthracnose (fungal infection): accompanied by the appearance of red or brown spots on the leaves and blackening of their tops. Leaves with signs of disease are removed. The plant is washed under running water and treated with any fungicide. In the absence of positive results within a week, the flower is destroyed. The pot is disinfected.
  • Gray rot affects the shoots, rapidly spreading to the leaves. Diseased areas are removed. The flower is treated with chemicals according to the instructions at least 3 times.
  • Root rot is manifested by discoloration and subsequent rapid wilting of the leaves. When transplanted, a light liquid (pus) is visible on diseased roots. At an early stage, this disease is quite easily treated. It is enough to reduce watering and place the flower in a warm place.
  • Brownish spots on the leaves are a sign of rust damage. Treatment consists in removing damaged leaves and repeated (after 3-4 days) application of fungicides or alcohol solutions for 2 weeks.

Why does the plant not bloom, leaves turn yellow?

It happens that anthurium refuse to bloom. The main reason for this is the lack of a rest period.

You should not think for a long time about what to do if the leaves of the anthurium turn yellow. So the flower expresses its dissatisfaction with lighting, temperature conditions, violation of the soil moisture regime or its composition.

In most cases, when problems are eliminated, the plant quickly restores its decorative effect.

In different types and varieties of anthurium, the shapes and sizes of the bedspread and cob are different. The cob can be longer or shorter than the bedspread, straight or spirally curled.

Anthurium cannot be called a very capricious plant, but just like Tradescantia grass, it will not grow and bloom. It needs a special approach - special soil, moderate watering, good lighting.

What to plant anthurium

One of the most important conditions for the successful cultivation of anthuriums is the correct choice of substrate. It should hold the plant well, retain moisture and nutrients, dry easily and allow air to pass through. At the same time, it should not quickly decompose, cake and compact.

Soil for anthurium:

1. Mix acidic soil like Azalea with peat, expanded clay, sphagnum, pine bark. The finished substrate must be loose, breathable, airy, and at the same time moisture-intensive. In such a substrate, anthurium feels great.
If there is none, then the substrate is "begonia" + sphagnum + perlite. You can also add charcoal to this.

2. Most guidelines recommend growing anthuriums in a substrate composed of 1 part coarse soddy soil, 1 part coarse sand and 2-3 parts leaf humus with the addition of pieces of charcoal. However, such a substrate is far from optimal and requires annual replacement.

A good substrate is pine bark with a piece size of 2 to 5 cm, but it is applicable mainly in greenhouse culture, subject to regular top dressing. The best results are obtained by a substrate composed of 2 parts pumice (pieces 1 to 3 cm in size), 2 parts pine bark (pieces 2 to 5 cm in size), 1 part coarse fibrous peat and 1 part rotted horse manure. Such a substrate is well aerated, sufficiently moisture-absorbing and retains nutrients well. For young plants, smaller fractions of its components are used. Good results can also be obtained when using a substrate composed of equal parts of large expanded clay (2-3 cm in diameter), coarse peat and pine bark (2-3 cm fractions). Some growers use glass wool or slag wool, crushed coconut shells, charcoal, and even broken bricks to grow anthuriums.

3) Landing in clean moss

4) Transplanted into a substrate for bromeliads and orchids (or 1 part leaf, 1 part coniferous, 1 part peat land and 0.5 parts sand

For Anthurium, I make up the earth myself.
I take soil for violets, or you can use other soil for indoor flowers or aroids, add a little perlite + vermiculite + pine bark + moss + sunflower seed husks.
I change as needed. I take the pot not quite wide, but not deep, 2-3 cm more than the previous one.

Anthurium lighting

Anthurium quickly adapts to indoor conditions, does not like direct sunlight at noon, but requires a lot of light, and morning or evening sun is welcome.
I also met such information in the literature: Anthuriums are shade-tolerant and can be content with rather meager light conditions.

Growing Anthuriums for more than one year, I can say that they can be content with meager light conditions, but then you will get an unattractive appearance and will not see flowers. The cuttings become very long, stick out in all directions like sticks, the leaves are small, and the flowers are even smaller, if at all.
For Anthurium, any direction of windows is suitable except for the south, of course, you need to take into account the height of the floor, but if you really want to grow Anthurium on the south window, then you need to put it next to the window about 30-50 cm or on the windowsill, but then the window needs to be darkened.

If you have, on the contrary, northern windows, or there is shading from the street, then in winter the anthurium will be dark, and at high temperatures, this leads to the degeneration of the plant, the loss of a decorative appearance. Therefore, with such windows, from September to March, you need to turn on fluorescent lighting.

Watering

Watering during the period of active growth is moderate, but regular, with soft water, that is, as the top layer dries. I water and spray with boiled water, sometimes I take a shower.
There is an opinion - the soil should be constantly wet.
The most common mistake is overmoistening the substrate; in the damp substrate, the roots of Anthurium quickly rot, which can lead to the death of plants. Stagnation of water in the pan is unacceptable, it must be drained immediately after watering. Golden rule: it's better to overfill rather than overfill. Worst of all, mushroom mosquitoes start up in pots from constant dampness (whose larvae gnaw at the roots), pathogenic fungi and bacteria develop, and various spots bloom on the plant.

Air humidity

Anthurium grows well and blooms at high humidity.
It is recommended to spray regularly (morning and evening) with water, because. Anthuriums need very humid air. You can increase the humidity of the air by spreading a layer of sphagnum moss around the leaves, but make sure that it does not create increased dampness of the earth and does not accumulate moisture on the stems. When spraying, use only soft boiled water, otherwise white stains remain on the leaves.

Anthurium fertilizer

From March to August, feed the plant with fertilizer once every two weeks. At the beginning of the growing season, the anthurium is fertilized with a weak solution for decorative leafy plants, after 2-3 top dressings, fertilizers can be applied for decorative flowering plants (fertik-lux, agricola, uniflor-buton, pocon for flowering, etc.). Calculate the dose of fertilizer 2 times less than the recommended one.

Reproduction of anthurium

By dividing adult specimens or separating rooted side shoots. To do this, the bush taken out of the pot must be carefully cut with a knife, cut off the necessary part with a piece of rhizome. Try not to disturb the bulk of the roots. Sprinkle all large sections with crushed coal or sulfur (sold in pet supplies) to close the gate for infection. Planted parts in the first week to water carefully. Try not to divide the bushes and transplant on the hottest summer days.

Seed propagation is also possible. After cross-pollination (for this you must have two simultaneously flowering plants), the seeds ripen within 8 weeks, after which they must be planted immediately, as they quickly lose their viability. The soil is light from a mixture of vermiculite and peat in equal parts. Vermiculite can be replaced with coarse sand. The soil can be covered with a thin layer of sphagnum moss, and seeds can be sown in it. From above, evenly moisten from a spray bottle, cover with a film. Ventilate regularly to prevent mold build-up on the ground.

Pests and diseases of anthurium

Usually, anthuriums get sick a little and are little susceptible to pest damage. Most often these are scale insects and mealybugs. Sometimes - ticks. Scale insects are especially dangerous, which multiply very quickly and require serious efforts to destroy them. Ticks are fought with means called acaricides (Apollo, Vermitek, Nissoran, etc.). With scale insects, mealybugs and other pests, including soil ones, the easiest way to deal with systemic insecticides is actara or confidor. Visible pests should be removed with a cotton swab or cotton swab dipped in alcohol.

Also, plants suffer greatly from excessive watering and poor drainage, leading to rotting of the root system. Root and stem rot caused by waterlogging of the substrate and low temperatures, as well as anthracnose. With anthracnose, the leaf blades begin to dry out from the edges, and with a strong lesion, the plants become exhausted and die. The fight against this disease requires perseverance, and it must be started at the first signs. In large collections, it is necessary to carry out preventive treatments with fungicides, preferably systemic (foundazol).

Frequently Asked Questions about Anthurium

1. What should I pay attention to when growing Anthurium?

Answer: Anthuriums are kept at a temperature of at least 18 degrees in conditions of high humidity (daily spraying is necessary). Photophilous. The temperature of the soil cannot be lower than the ambient temperature, so it is better to use not ceramic, but plastic pots. Anthurium consumes a lot of water, so the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Anthurium Andre tolerates the sun better than Scherzer's anthurium, but it is better to darken it, it feels fine in bright light, but without the sun too, and it is better in a humid atmosphere. When spraying, try not to get large drops of water on the flowers - ugly spots will remain.

Such spots appear from systematic overflow, and very often are a sign of infection.

2. How to divide anthurium?

Answer: Be very careful! When dividing, the roots must be carefully untangled or cut with a knife. You can shed a little epin or root.

3. The plant requires repotting, but it is recommended to repot only in spring, what should I do?

Answer: The best thing to do now is transfer to a slightly larger pot than before, and carefully change the topsoil without exposing the roots, if possible. Good drainage and very loose soil is required. If there are aerial roots, lightly sprinkle them with the same soil or cover them with damp moss.

4. Yellow spots appeared on the leaves on Anthurium. Why does this happen, from hard water or from overfeeding with fertilizers?

Answer: If the spots are large - evenly over the entire surface of the leaf, and the leaves themselves are either smaller than the previous ones, or larger - then these are clear signs of an unbalanced fertilizer. If the spots are small and visible through the light, then it may be a spider mite.

5. Is it possible to transplant flowering anthurium?

Answer: Blooming flowers can not be transplanted, but only transshipped, i.e. without damaging the earthy coma, especially if the pot is small. And put the flower in a bright place.

6. How roots can be deepened during transplantation

Answer: They can and should be buried during transplantation, well, of course, you should not be zealous. Roots should definitely be covered. If you can’t deepen it, cover them with at least sphagnum. In anthuriums, even aerial roots are recommended to be wrapped in wet sphagnum ...

7. Anthurium does not bloom!

Answer: The path to success for anthuriums is this: in order for it to bloom, it must be at a temperature of at least 18 degrees around the clock, does not like direct sunlight, diffused light is needed. Watering is moderate, he really does not like drafts. Its pot must be slightly larger than its root system, otherwise it will not bloom! And, of course, a light fertilizer once a week.

Anthurium is an ornamental plant native to America. It is one of the most beautiful representatives of tropical flora. Its flowering is distinguished by bright inflorescences of an exotic form.

Many flower growers complain, despite their inclinations, anthurium rarely pleases with a riot of colors of inflorescences. Window sills cannot replace high mountain rainforests. Nevertheless, guided by a few tricks when cultivating anthurium at home, you can achieve its bizarre flowering throughout the year.

Errors of flower growers when growing anthurium

Before looking for an answer to the question of how to make indoor anthurium bloom more often when grown at home, one should objectively evaluate the conditions that were created for its growth.

Anthurium will not bloom if:

  • scorching sun rays fall on its stems;
  • moderation of watering is not observed - the plant either suffers from an excess of moisture, or does not receive it;
  • for planting a plant taken waterproof soil - dense;
  • transplantation and feeding of the plant with nutrients is not performed;
  • in the room where the indoor plant grows, dry air;
  • the flower is planted in a large pot (deep and wide in diameter);
  • dried inflorescences are untimely removed;
  • the plant is infested with pests.

Any home flower requires attention, it would seem that the unpretentious anthurium is no exception. If blunders are allowed in caring for it, then you should not expect impressive lush growth and the release of inflorescences from the plant.

Basic requirements for flowering anthurium

Anthurium blooms depending on the variety in different ways. For some, the beginning of summer is acceptable, the flowering of the second falls in autumn, even varieties that bloom in winter are cultivated today. Many flower growers also note such Anthurium species that bloom year-round. Therefore, it is never too late to start stimulating the plant to release inflorescences.

Despite the state of the anthurium and its age, work begins with the correction of the mistakes made, which implies compliance with the basic requirements of the plant.

Lighting

An excellent place for the growth of anthurium is partial shade. Pots with this flower should be placed on the eastern or western windowsills, which allows the plant to provide a long daylight hours and diffuse sunlight. Under such conditions, the anthurium does not waste energy on restoring burnt stems and foliage. If we are talking about the winter growing period, then to ensure a long daylight hours, it is necessary to use fluorescent lamps.

Temperature regime

Cold and heat for anthurium are unacceptable. A favorable temperature for its cultivation and flowering is +18..+22°С. This condition is necessarily fulfilled both in the cold and in the warm months of the year.

Air conditioners are used to reduce the air temperature in the room in summer, and heating system temperature controllers are used in winter.


Watering organization:

  • Anthurium responds with abundant flowering when watered with settled water at room temperature without chlorine impurities.
  • Breaks between watering should not exceed four days in the warm season and seven days in autumn and winter.
  • The need for watering an indoor flower is determined by the degree of dryness of the top layer of the planting soil - it should not stick to the hand and should not form cracks.
  • To ensure a sufficient level of humidity in the warm season, anthurium foliage should additionally be sprayed from a spray bottle. When performing this procedure, it is necessary to ensure that water does not fall on the blooming inflorescences.

Fertilizer

Anthurium is whimsical for feeding with nutrients, due to which the inflorescences are either absent or are weak and few in number. The plant does not tolerate both their deficiency and their excess.

Therefore, you should always be guided by the following scheme:

  • fertilize only rooted samples without signs of pest damage;
  • for top dressing, you should use a complex liquid fertilizer for flowering houseplants, for example, "Agricola", "Fertika-Lux", "Ideal";
  • fertilizers should be applied to the soil no more than once a week during the active growth phase (you need to start in early March and finish at the end of August);
  • the recommended one-time dosage of fertilizers should be divided by two to three times;
  • before fertilizing, the flower is watered abundantly in order to prevent burns of the root system.

Proper landing and transplant

Often, breeding anthurium at home begins with the purchase of a plant in a flower shop. Therefore, after it blooms, it needs to be transplanted.

This is done in order to:

  • soil renewal;
  • providing the root system with optimal conditions for full development;
  • achieve more abundant long flowering.

In order for the anthurium to quickly take over, it is transplanted by the transshipment method, without injuring the root system. The plant is transferred to a more spacious shallow pot with a renewed slightly acidic substrate, consisting of peat, conifer bark, charcoal, sand, expanded clay chips in a ratio of 1/0.5/0.5/1/0.5.

Anthurium also accepts loose forest soils, turf. The lower the density of the soil, the more oxygen enters the roots of the plant, which ensures its violent growth and the formation of new inflorescences.

After replacing the purchased flower container, the anthurium is transplanted once a year for five years. Subsequently, the number of transplants is reduced to once every three years. A favorable time for transplanting a plant that has been cultivated for several years is the active growth phase from March to September inclusive.

Artificial stimulation of anthurium to bloom

If no care mistakes were made when growing a houseplant, but it still does not bloom, artificial flower stimulation should be tried. One of the experienced flower growers made a remark that the anthurium responds well to watering with moderately hot water.

The method of watering the roots with settled water (+40 .. + 50 ° С) before the start of the active growth phase (at the end of February) contributes to the so-called “shake”, which subsequently has a positive effect on the formation of inflorescences.

Also an effective method of stimulating flowering is the treatment of anthurium roots during transplantation with special herbal stimulants.

Having provided the anthurium with proper care and competent support, one can expect one hundred percent return from it in the form of exquisite budding.

Anthurium is a tropical plant with a flower in the form of an elongated cob with a bright glossy coverlet. It can have a different shape and a variety of colors.

Different types of anthuriums can be either epiphytes (growing on tree bark) or semi-epiphytes (growing next to trees in fallen bark, leaves and branches covering the soil).

There are up to several hundred species of anthurium around the world, but only three species are popular with flower growers: Anthurium Andre, Anthurium Crystal and Anthurium Scherzer.

Anthurium is popularly called "Male Happiness". According to one version, it is so named because the appearance of the plant resembles a hot, flaming heart-veil pierced by an arrow-cob.

How can you determine that an anthurium needs watering?

Anthurium really does not like when the soil and air are dry, so you need to carefully monitor the humidity level of the environment in which it lives. If the plant is an adult (3-5 years), then watering can be carried out with half dried soil. If the plant is young, then the soil should not dry out. It should be slightly damp.

The most noticeable signs of underwatering: the plant becomes somewhat faded, the leaves become sluggish, the flowers lose their brightness.

How often to water the flower "Male happiness"?


Due to its tropical origin, anthurium does not tolerate drought, but if you overdo it with watering, then the roots will simply begin to rot. In addition, overflow leads to the spread of mold.

When watering a plant, you need to rely on observations of the flower. If dryness is felt when touching the soil, then it is time to water the flower.

The temperature in the room is also important. If it is high, then you need to water more often. If the air is cooler, then accordingly, watering should be reduced.

Much also depends on the age of the anthurium. A young flower requires more moisture than an older specimen. As with many tropical flowers, the frequency of watering depends on the time of year.

Watering methods

Most often, flower growers prefer bottom watering, that is, in a pan. For anthurium, this is not the best way. Anthurium has aerial roots on the lower part of the stem. They also need to get moisture. Therefore, it is recommended to cover the base of the plant with sphagnum moss.

It retains moisture and thus nourishes these very roots. Mixed watering can also be used, that is, watering the soil directly and adding water to the pan.

Important! When watering a plant from above, you should not pour water on the leaves, and even more so the flowers. This is fraught with a deterioration in the appearance of the flower. Droplets of water, drying, leave unsightly traces.

Anthurium is very good at spraying from a spray bottle, while experts advise moistening not the flower itself, but the air around it, especially in winter.

Well, and, the last way to moisturize is to install a container with a flower on a pallet filled with expanded clay and water. Evaporating water moisturizes both the soil and the flower as a whole.

Remember! It is very useful to periodically arrange a "bath day" for the anthurium. You can wipe the leaves and flowers with a damp cloth, but after that, be sure to dry all surfaces. Otherwise, water stains will remain on the flower. Or, the anthurium "baths" in the shower. So you can wash off all the dust from it. After that, the procedure for drying the surfaces of the leaves.

What is season orientation?

Winter

As a rule, flowers need to be watered much less often in winter. Anthurium is no exception to this rule. Watering is carried out no more than once a week. The main condition for wintering is to monitor the temperature. A tropical handsome man simply cannot withstand temperatures below 10-12 degrees, and sub-zero temperatures are out of the question.

Attention! Draft is the worst enemy of anthurium. In no case should you keep the flower in actively ventilated rooms.

Summer


Anthurium is a very thermophilic flower, and therefore summer is the most fertile time for it.

You can water it more often - up to 2-3 times a week, and 20-30 minutes after watering, you need to pour out excess water., which remains in the tray otherwise root rot cannot be avoided.

Gently spraying the air frequently will be very helpful.

Spring and Autumn

In spring and autumn, you need to carefully monitor the absence of drafts, good lighting and water the flower as needed. If the anthurium is actively growing or has begun to bloom, you need a little more water.

What water is needed for irrigation?

Anthurium is very sensitive to water. More specifically, her temperature. Watering it with cold water is strictly contraindicated. Warm water or water at room temperature is ideal. You can not water the flower with tap water - this will negatively affect its health and appearance. Hard water for a flower is also unacceptable.

Additional Information! It is best to fill bottles with water and leave them at room temperature. It is best to use this water after 3-4 days.

Diseases caused by improper watering

As mentioned above, anthurium does not like water overflow. From this, the root system begins to rot, and with it all the other parts of the flower. Leaves suffer the most in anthurium, as they make up the bulk of the flower.


What is the danger of improper watering?

Possible mistakes in caring for a flower, leading to a deterioration in appearance, and after the death of the plant:

  • Lack of measure in watering a flower;
  • The location of the anthurium in the draft;
  • Direct scorching sunlight;
  • Watering the flower with hard cold water;
  • Dry air and soil;
  • Overfeeding or underfeeding fertilizers.

FAQ

What insects can infect anthurium?

There are several such insects: spider mites, aphids, thrips, root nematodes, scale insects. They suck out all the moisture from the plant and prevent the full growth and development of the flower.

How to propagate anthurium?


It can be propagated by seeds, but this is a rather laborious and long process. During flowering, the anthurium cob must be brushed to pollinate it.

Cross-pollination of two or more plants in close proximity is also acceptable. Within 9-10 months, berries will appear and ripen on the cob. They contain the seeds.

You can propagate during transplantation, carefully separating the side and smaller bushes from the main flower. Later, these bushes can be planted in a separate container.
As mentioned above, there are aerial roots on the anthurium trunk. Separation of a stem fragment with such roots and at least one leaf will make it possible to obtain a new plant.

How and what to feed anthurium?

Anthurium is usually enough to feed once every 3-4 weeks. In summer, during intensive growth and flowering, this frequency is ideal. In winter, during the period of rest and rest, it is better not to feed the anthurium.

The exception is flowering in winter. In this case, top dressing is necessary. Anthurium is fed with fertilizers for flowering plants, or with mullein infusion. Not bad effect on him and the infusion of chicken manure.

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