Japanese pygmy mouse: selection, feeding. Japanese dancing mice Japanese mice content

Synonyms and names in other languages

Japanese pygmy mouse.

Classification

Class: Mammalia (Mammals)

Subclass: Theria (live-bearing mammals, real animals)

Infraclass: Placentalia (Placental, higher beasts)

Superorder/Superorder: Glires (Rodentiformes)

Squad/Order: Rodentia (Rodents)

Suborder/Suborder: Myomorpha (Mouse)

Superfamily: Muroidea (Mouse)

Family: Muridae (Mouse)

Subfamily: Murinae (Mice and rats)

Genus: Mus (Mice)

View: Mus minutoides Smith (Japanese mouse)

Japanese pygmy mice are native to Southeast Asia and Japan, where they were domesticated and used in laboratories.

Appearance

body length 2 - 4 cm.

The weight 6 -6.5 grams.

Frame long and thin with a well arched loin.

Head elongated, not too tapering towards the nose, with a clear Roman profile.

Ears are at a great distance from each other, small, thin (almost transparent).

Tail round in cross section, without creases and seals, gradually tapering from the back to the tip.

Eyes large and clear, black.

coat color bicolor, black and white. There are brown and white Japanese mice, but they are not in Russia.

wool type- smooth-haired.

The mouse should be flexible, of a good size, not too clumsy, not too fat or thin. The coat should be smooth and shiny, without bald patches.

Character

Active, friendly, good contact with a person.

They get along well with a group of females, males are kept strictly one by one.

Sawdust can be used as filler, but wood or corn filler is better. In the cage you need to put one or more houses, a wheel, ladders and climbing frames for the entertainment of mice. You can put hay or paper napkins - the mice will use them to build a nest.

Temperature in the room where the mice live should be maintained at a level of 20-24 ° C.

Air humidity be 50-60%, without sharp fluctuations.

Mice require a carrier to be transported.

Lifespan mouse is 2 years old.

Feeding

Mice are granivorous rodents and the grain mixture for them should include components such as wheat, oats, barley, millet, corn, peas, sunflower (black and striped seeds), nuts, dried fruits and dried berries, herbal granules, gammarus, dog food, seeds watermelon and melon, pumpkin seeds, chopped nuts (walnuts, peanuts, hazelnuts), dried carrots, dry dog ​​food, fruit tree branches.

The result is approximately the following set of nutrients: proteins 14.1%, fats 9.8%, fiber 8.9%, phosphorus 0.4%, calcium 0.9%.

Well-washed raisins and chopped dried fruits, raw sesame seeds, pumpkin seeds, barley flakes, various vitamin supplements and vitamins for small rodents can be added to the grain mixture. You can also add baby food to the diet of mice.

On sale you can find good full-fledged imported food for mice.

As additives, you can give mice boiled chicken, quail eggs, gammarus. From the greens, mice are given cilantro, parsley, and lettuce. Vegetables and fruits - boiled and raw pumpkin, apples, boiled and raw carrots, boiled beets, bell peppers, cucumber, zucchini, pear, apricot, peach, melon, eggplant, grapes, banana, cauliflower, Jerusalem artichoke, broccoli. Do not give the mouse cabbage and potatoes, do not give large quantities of tomatoes and beets, and most importantly - no citrus and exotic fruits. From berries, mice can be given currants, raspberries, strawberries.

Be sure to put mineral and salt stones in the cage.

You can cook mash for mice from grated carrots, chopped boiled eggs, crackers and dried gammarus.

There should be a drinker in the cage, preferably a nipple, the water should always be clean and fresh.

It is better to have two bowls in the cage - for grain mixture and for other feeds.

Peculiarities

Males are aggressive towards each other, they can be kept strictly one by one.

It is impossible to plant Japanese mice with house mice, brownies can kill smaller and weaker Japanese.

There may be Japanese mice called Japanese dancing mice - this is not a breed, these are sick mice, with damage to the vestibular apparatus, so they move in a circle. You shouldn't buy them.

Ticks are often found - they can be seen in the wool, if you look closely, in case of damage by ticks, mice actively itch. Getting rid of ticks is easy - just drop a drop of anti-tick preparation for cats on a cotton swab and blot the hair on the withers of the mouse with the wand.

Japanese mice are prone to colds, they are treated with draft prevention, the antibiotic baytril, and children's cough mixtures. Colds are manifested by expiration from the nose and coughing, sneezing.

Mycoplasmosis has symptoms similar to colds, it is diagnosed by laboratory tests and treated with antibiotics.

Breeding

Japanese mice reach sexual maturity at 1 - 1.5 months (females mature earlier than males by an average of a week), but it is highly not recommended to breed them at this age, because the body of the mouse is not yet strong, and the offspring can be born weak and sick, and vice versa - too old mouse can also give sick offspring.

For mating, a couple is seated, after mating they are seated again.

The optimal age for mating females is 3 months, matings are allowed in the range from 3 to 8 months (and only in healthy strong mice - up to a year), but the first mating should be up to 5 months, that is, childbirth is approximately up to 6 months.

It is believed that males can begin to knit with the achievement of sexual maturity. The upper limit is approximately the same as that of females - up to a year. The interval between matings should be 2-3 months so that the female can restore strength and health. If you knit a female several times in a row, then each subsequent generation will be weaker and sicker.

Pregnancy in these mice lasts approximately three weeks. The duration depends, as a rule, on the size of the expected offspring, in a litter from 1 to 7 mice. During pregnancy, as well as after childbirth during the feeding period, it is necessary to give the female more protein and food containing vitamins. Before giving birth, the female builds a nest for herself, where the birth process takes place.

Mice are born hairless and blind. On the 7th-9th day, hair begins to appear in the mice. At 13-15 days, the eyes open and then the so-called "flea" age (jumpers) begins. At this time, the babies are very active and jumpy, their hind limbs are noticeably developed, disproportionately large compared to those in adult mice. After 4 - 5 weeks, the mice become independent and they are separated from their mother and seated according to gender.

Anyone who decides to get a Japanese mouse inevitably asks the question: how many animals to buy? What do you prefer - a heterosexual or same-sex couple?
There are several options.
1. Two females + one male. In this case, you will enjoy the most real family idyll. This is the most natural option: zoologists say that it is precisely such mouse families that are most often found in nature.
2. Female + male. Also a good option. Complete family.
3. Two females. It is known that several females can be kept in one terrarium at the same time and there will be no strife between them.
4. One male. Two males will not get along together: sooner or later the moment will come when they will start to fight for the territory. But a lonely male, deprived of the attention of relatives, will strive to communicate with you. You will probably easily tame it (how to tame a Japanese mouse - see below, in the "Entertainment" section). Having one male is a good choice for those who want not only to watch their pet from the side, but to communicate and play with him. In general, I personally prefer to communicate with males: females sometimes behave unpredictably. Males are more adequate; they will much better learn the rules of the games that you come up with for them.

What will your mice need? Home, food and entertainment.

Japanese mice are best kept in a plastic aquaterrarium, as these animals are afraid of drafts. For a couple of mice, a regular 41x32x22 terrarium is more than enough. Such terrariums are also sold at the Bird Market (always) and in pet stores (sometimes). By the way, turtles are kept in the same terrariums, so if you didn’t find what you were looking for in the “goods for rodents” section, look in the section for amphibians.
It's great if there is a lattice on the lid of the terrarium - mice love to climb on it. But plastic palms, which are sometimes found in such terrariums, should be thrown away immediately - they have too sharp leaves that are easy to get hurt. After all, no mouse can resist the temptation to quickly climb a palm tree, especially if another mouse is already sitting there.
It's great if the terrarium already has a running wheel. It does not matter if it is not there - such wheels can be bought separately.
We will talk more about drinkers below, in the "Food" section.

At the bottom of the terrarium, you need to pour sawdust (middle fraction). You can change them every two or three days, or once a week - it is with such a frequency that you need to arrange a general cleaning. More about her below.
In the meantime, let's take care, in fact, of the house, the shelter where the mice will make a nest.
Such a shelter can be a half of a coconut shell, a broken flower pot, etc. Pet stores sell ready-made ceramic and wooden houses. By the way, mice do not like it when light enters their house, and they carefully close up too large cracks or entrances with rags and other improvised material. Cut shreds, tear pieces of toilet paper (but not cotton wool - it sticks to the skin) and scatter all this stuff around the terrarium - the mice themselves will find how to attach it to their household. Watching this process is a separate pleasure.
Where to put the terrarium? Just not at the window! Mice do not like cold, heat, drafts, bright light. They get cold easily and overheat. Therefore, the place for the terrarium should not be too lit; it shouldn't be too warm or too cold here. Never leave your terrarium by an open window in winter. The optimal temperature for mice is 20-22 degrees.

About general cleaning. Throw away all the tenants, giving each a present - a seed or a piece of banana chip, so that the expulsion is not so hard to endure. Wash the terrarium with a soft sponge and laundry soap. Dry the terrarium thoroughly. It must be absolutely dry. Pour sawdust and shreds, fresh food, rinse the drinker and pour fresh water into it, put a house. Now you can invite its inhabitants.

Mice have a very intensive metabolism, so they need to be constantly fed. However, do not overfeed the animals. One Japanese mouse eats a little less than a teaspoon of food daily. Moreover, if your mouse meticulously chooses grains of one type, rejecting others, you should not indulge her, all the time adding exactly those grains that she liked. Wait until the feeder is almost empty, and only then add a new portion of food.
The mice are fed once a day.

The main diet of Japanese mice, like any other mice, is whole grains. It is also useful in that it allows you to grind teeth, and this is vital for rodents. Mixtures of corn, oats, millet, sorghum, pumpkin seeds and sunflower seeds are excellent. All these grains can be bought at the Bird Market - in a mixture or separately.

ATTENTION! Such grain must be washed - in storage it is sprayed with poison. One unwashed grain can be fatal. A fairly convenient way is to throw a handful of grains into a bowl of water for a few minutes, and then rinse well under running water using a regular sieve. After that, it is worth spreading the grain on a pallet or plates so that it dries thoroughly.
Just like humans, mice need vegetables, fruits, and herbs. Rodents eat beets, carrots, apples, zucchini, lettuce, cilantro, green and onions, parsley, ordinary green grass (wheatgrass), leaves and shoots of burdock, leaves of dandelions, plantain, yarrow, goutweed, etc. The exception is white cabbage, which is believed to cause fermentation in the stomach and intestines.

As for food sold in stores, the mice clearly prefer mixtures of whole grains (corn + oats + millet + sunflower, etc.); nevertheless, ready-made feeds have two significant advantages - firstly, they do not need to be washed and dried, and secondly, they already contain pieces of dried vegetables, fruits and herbs. Therefore, in principle, you can only feed mice with store-bought food. And even better - combine ready-made and home-made feed.

Mineral stone is an important addition to your diet as it provides your mouse with calcium and phosphorus and also gives it the ability to grind down its teeth.
The rodent's incisors grow throughout its life, and if for some reason it cannot grind them down, it will die. The loss of an incisor is just as dangerous: the remaining tooth grows ugly and sometimes even grows into the brain. Therefore, it is better not to put too hard objects in the terrarium - curious mice first try everything on the tooth.
Mineral stones are also sold in pet stores and in the Bird Market.

Mice can be fed with ordinary unboiled tap water. The main thing is that this water should stand for some time in an open container. It is quite enough to leave a three-liter jar of water for a day: during this time, all the chlorine will leave it.
How to feed mice? In principle, you can put a high ceramic bowl of water in the terrarium, but playful animals always drop all kinds of garbage into the water and dip their tails into it. It is most convenient to use an automatic drinker. This is a bottle from which a tube comes out with a metal ball at the end. The mouse licks the ball, which, due to the force of surface tension, is constantly wetted with water.
It is better not to buy drinkers with a plastic sleeve inside - the ball often dries up in them.
The drinker is hung outside or inside the terrarium (which is less convenient, since the mice strive to swing on the drinker). By the way, in terrariums with a lattice cover there is a special hole in order to hang a drinking bowl from the outside, and an adult medium-sized mouse is quite capable of squeezing into it! Be vigilant when removing the drinker - never forget to plug the gap that has opened in the wall of the terrarium.
And one more thing: always fill the drinker to the end!
It is advisable to change the water in the drinker every three days. From time to time it is necessary to rinse the drinker so that blue-green algae do not start on its walls.

As for vitamins: if you give your pets a varied and balanced diet and they look healthy and playful, then no vitamin supplements are required. Moreover, the combination of enriched imported feed and vitamin solution (provided that this is the entire diet of your mice) can only hurt - lead to hypervitaminosis. But if you notice that the skin of your mouse has lost its smoothness, the eyes have lost their shine, etc., it makes sense to add a few drops of a vitamin solution to the water for a while.

PREGNANCY, BIRTH, FEEDING

Pregnancy in Japanese mice lasts 20 days, and the same amount of time is required for the babies to reach adulthood. There are up to 7 cubs in a litter.

How to take care of mother and babies?

Give your mother more fresh food - fruits, vegetables, low-fat cottage cheese, put a mineral stone in the terrarium. But most importantly - do not disturb the mother and children: in no case do not touch the nest (house) all 20 days after birth! Firstly, in order not to kill the cubs - disturbed parents can devour them, and secondly, so as not to infect (the babies have not yet formed a stable immunity). Sawdust in the terrarium itself can be changed.
Sometimes mice eat their first litter, but nothing can be done about it. If this happens, then in the house, and you will not see it. But the second and third time everything goes like clockwork: they give birth normally and feed. True, our mice have always fed their children, including firstborns.
You can take a mouse that is already in the process of being demolished, but only a couple of days before and after giving birth, the mouse becomes quite nervous, so maybe it’s not worth the risk.

Should I put my father away?

The male pursues the female both shortly before giving birth, and in the process, and even a day or two later. It is necessary to watch the parents: if it comes to serious fights, then, of course, the guy should be put in the "father".
Experienced people said that the Japanese were not sent off. We have tried both options. When the male was removed, the female rested for some time from pestering, but then she did not recognize her husband, and she had to get used to him again; the guy also had problems with his father's instinct. When the male was not removed, he tried to take possession of the mother right on the babies. But on the second day after the birth, he cooled down and began to caress the children (in a good way). And in some cases, the children were strangers, from another father ...
We were all afraid that this struggle would cripple the children, but somehow we managed so far! So it seems to me that we need to monitor the situation, and if everything is more or less normal, then there is no need to put the male away.

ENTERTAINMENT

Japanese mice are very temperamental and cheerful animals. They always find something to do - they fall from somewhere, try to squeeze into some gap, climb somewhere, make something, or just jump happily.
There are many ways to amuse restless animals: hang ropes or rope ladders, put a running wheel, put an intricately shaped snag. A terrarium with a slatted lid gives you another way to have fun: you can walk upside down on the slatted terrarium!

By the way, mice are distinguished by amazing jumping ability. Young Japanese mice are able to jump up, turning over in the air, for example, to grab their paws and tail on the bars "on the ceiling" of their terrarium.
The fact that mice are excellent jumpers should always be remembered, even if you are dealing with a tame animal that climbed into your palm. And if the mouse is not yet manual, keep in mind: you can only take it by the tail and nothing else!

How to tame a Japanese mouse

If you decide to tame your mice, be patient. It has been experimentally proven that when an animal tries to solve a difficult or unusual problem, it experiences a state similar to neurosis. Make it a rule never to force the will of the animal without good reason. If you show enough patience, attentiveness and respect for the will of your pet, he will begin to persistently seek your company, and climb onto your hand every time you lower it into the terrarium.

Tame mice gradually: before pouring the usual portion of food, offer them a seed, oatmeal or other treat. Your movements should be smooth, soft. At first, the mice will shy away from your fingers: in this case, leave the seed and remove your hand. In a few days, curiosity will surely take its toll. The main thing - do not rush.
Mice will soon get used to your hand and will begin to take food from your fingers. And one day the bravest little mouse will try to climb on your palm. Do not rush things: let him carefully examine your hand in the familiar environment of his native terrarium. Let the mouse feel that your hand is a friend.

Talk to the mouse - softly, affectionately. Tell him that you admire his courage, quick wit and beauty. According to my observations, Japanese mice perfectly feel the emotional background and always react to unfeigned admiration and affectionate words. And vice versa: if a person is nervous, inviting the animal to the palm, the latter, most likely, will ignore the invitation. And it will be right...

So, after a while you will be able to take your tame mouse out of the terrarium and play with it "in the wild".
As soon as you notice that the animal is overexcited, immediately return it to the terrarium.

When playing with a mouse, you must be extremely careful and careful: mice are very nimble animals and always strive to escape. The Japanese mouse is extremely easy to pinch or crush - many animals die due to the carelessness and awkwardness of their owners. And this circumstance is another weighty argument in favor of taming your mouse gradually. Over time, the mouse gets used to your hands, and you get used to it, to its movements and habits. You begin to feel the desires and mood of your pet better, your hands become more dexterous, and the mouse learns the rules of your joint games.

wild past
The babies are from Southeast Asia and Japan. The breed was not bred artificially, its popularity is rather a gift of fate. In the wild, they are somewhat smaller than the house mouse, much cleaner and lighter, and most importantly, they are easily tamed, peaceful and feel great in captivity. It is because of these features in Japan that these mice were used as laboratory animals. And it was there that such signs as small sizes and black and white spotted color were entrenched.
Then, sadly, the little ones gained popularity as food for small snakes.
And only much later, mice were rated as excellent pets.
A miniature mouse measuring 4-7 cm and weighing 6-6.5 g has great charm. The white fur is adorned with black spots that make the mouse look like a tiny Dalmatian. These spots in each mouse are very individual, like human fingerprints, and take their own bizarre and unique shape. It differs from an ordinary mouse in its smaller size and elongated head and unusually soft, silky fur.
"Dancing" mice were named for their mobility, jumping ability (by the way, they jump very high for their size!). "Unusual" is due to the fact that they often jump, relying on their tail. Their movements are fast and at the same time smooth, varied and even graceful. Unlike a hamster, which usually either eats or sleeps, Japanese mice are very dynamic, inquisitive and spend a significant part of their time on the move. If they do not explore for the hundredth and thousandth time the areas of their cage or do not climb its walls either up or down, then they are doing toilet, combing and smoothing their fur with their paws and washing their muzzle.

Mouse care
Any mouse is looking for a mink. This is known to everyone. Mice feel more comfortable in closed spaces. This should not be forgotten, and you should take care of the “roof over your head” for your pet in advance.
The mouse's house should be clean, dry and warm, but not hot. You should not put it near the window or near the battery, as the mice are afraid of drafts and bright light: the animals can easily catch a cold or overheat. Never leave a mouse's house by an open window in winter! The optimal temperature for mice is 19-22 °C.
It should be noted that the mice are small, and the cage must be chosen with a very fine mesh. And if mice appear, then no smallest mesh will be an obstacle to them. Therefore, the best choice would be a plastic terrarium. Pet stores sell ready-made terrariums with a house where Japanese mice can relax - with a food bowl, a running wheel, a drinker. If you bought the terrarium empty, then you can purchase all the accessories separately. Mice are easy to care for. It is necessary to change the bedding 1-2 times a week, depending on the size of the "house" and the number of mice. Bedding materials are available from pet stores. The best of them are those made from pressed sawdust.
You can buy special toys for the mouse, but you can also make them yourself. The rope net will help the mouse to work out acrobatic stunts, keeping balance with the help of the tail. Even a cardboard tube from paper towels will come in handy. It is easy and fun to climb. Mouse wheel - an exciting simulator!

Pledge of health
Despite their miniature size, mice have excellent health and an enviable life expectancy for such babies - 2.5-3 years.
But still, the health of the pet should be given some attention. The problem for any rodent is teeth. Incisors grow throughout life. In addition, your pets need minerals.
It is recommended to put a mineral stone in the terrarium of the mouse, which contains phosphorus and calcium, and in addition, it gives her the opportunity to grind her teeth.
This breed is characterized by a hereditary pathology of the cerebellum, which is expressed in impaired coordination of movements. This does not cause torment to mice, however, if this happens, it is better not to use the animal for breeding, so as not to fix this pathology. Unfortunately, the mouse will not be able to complain to you about his illnesses. To determine the health status of an animal, you must first pay attention to its appearance. Your mouse should be plump, with sparkling eyes and a clean, smooth coat. The animal must move freely, show interest in food and the environment. If the mouse hides in a corner, closes its eyes, or moves unsteadily, this is a sign of ill health.

Character and habits
If you decide to get yourself a Japanese mouse, then you should think about how it will live and ... with whom.
The animal may well live alone, but the mouse is a social animal, and it needs communication, including with the owner. And if you decide to have two, three or more mice, then you need to take into account some biological aspects. Males are the defenders of the territory, with all the ensuing consequences: conflicts, fights, which can lead to serious injuries. So a few males will get along with difficulty. As for females, they are calmer, there should be no problems with living together, but, of course, small “squabbles” are sometimes possible. If you settle together two individuals of different sexes, then it is quite possible to prepare for the opening of a nursery or simply for the distribution of babies. In the natural environment, a triad is more common - two females and one male. This also needs to be known.
So remember: communication is very important for Japanese mice. Animals quickly get used to a person and claim his attention. It is important to understand the "peculiar" language in which mice are "explained". Through special sounds, animals can express the full range of their emotions: satisfaction, displeasure, aggression, fear, or specific territorial behavior.

Comments

It so happened that from childhood I remember how birds lived in our house. These were budgerigars, goldfinches and canaries. I especially remember the kenar Kesha, incredibly quick-witted, he lived with us for a long time and became, in fact, a full member of the family. Kesha usually woke up early and woke up the whole family with his songs. And let them tell me that his voice was too loud, even though he rather annoyed adults then, but for me waking up to the song of a canary has become synonymous with home comfort.