Corn snake or red rat snake. Corn Snake (Pantherophis guttatus) Captive feeding

Climbing snake or white rat snake. In fact, this is one of the rare species of snakes with white skin, but not red eyes, but blue. The snake reaches a length of almost 1.8 m. The eyes are quite large. This "leucistic" variant is captive bred and does not occur naturally.

Often, when breeding, a leucistic pair can produce offspring of a different color.

This subspecies lives in North America from southern Canada to the southern United States. Poloz prefers humid places, for example, in arid regions - river valleys, ravines, in humid areas - broad-leaved forests, shrubs, wastelands. Sometimes it can be found near cities.

The rat snake feeds

rodents, birds and their eggs, lizards, frogs. In captivity, it is fed once a week with appropriately sized mice.




reproduction

During the breeding season, the female lays 12 to 20 eggs. Young serpents are born after approximately 65-70 days at an incubation temperature of 27-29°C.

In captivity, white Texas snakes are kept in a horizontal type terrarium. The minimum size of a terrarium for one snake is 70x40x60 cm (excluding the height of the lamp). The temperature is maintained using a thermal cord or thermal mat. In a warm corner during the day - up to 30-32 ° C, at night - 23-25 ​​° C. You can keep snakes one at a time or in a group of 1 male and 1-2 females. The terrarium should be regularly sprayed, maintaining humidity. In the corner of the terrarium should be bathing with fresh water. As soil in the terrarium, you can use wood chips or coconut chips, mulch.


The snakes are not poisonous, but are quite aggressive, especially during molting. She shows her aggressiveness to a greater extent at the moment when she foresees danger and is cornered.

Lifespan

Life span up to 17 years.


Cage kids. B. 184. Ross Allen's rat snake.

Original taken from in Cage Kids. B. 184. Ross Allen's rat snake.


Rat snake by Ross Allen lat. Pantherophis obsoletus rossalleni)
It is found only in the very south of Florida, in particular in the Everglades National Park.


The total length ranges from 1.2 to 1.8 m.
Young animals are gray in color, the body is dotted with brown spots. As they grow, the body becomes orange-yellow, some individuals have a reddish tint. The spots practically disappear, but remain slightly visible in the dark shades of the background; sometimes they show no more than two faint lines on either side of the spine.

These snakes love broad-leaved forests, shrubs, clearings, wastelands, mountain forests with scree. In the south, in arid regions, river valleys, ravines and canyons serve as habitats.

They are active during the day, and in warmer months - at night. In fact, they simply follow the habits of their prey. They feed on rodents, small birds and their eggs.

This is an oviparous snake. Mating takes place in the spring, from March to May, laying takes place between May and July. The female lays 12-20 eggs. Young snakes appear after 65-70 days.
This snake is very attractive in its color.

All pictures were taken by me at the Moscow Zoo.

The maize snake is the main name of a non-venomous snake from the family of already-shaped, belonging to the genus Pantherophis. Also, this type of snake is known as the red rat snake. This second name of the snake is due to the characteristic appearance. In addition, in private collections kept by exotic lovers, this reptile is often called the gutata or spotted climbing snake.

Appearance, description of the snake

The reptile grows up to two meters, but in most cases, the average size of an adult does not exceed one and a half meters. To date, many varieties or so-called color variations of the red rat snake are known, but the main coloration of the maize snake is represented by an orange background and black stripes that surround red spots. The belly is characterized by the presence of a reticulated whitish-black pattern..

Corn snake in the wild

As a rule, snakes are earth dwellers and move along its surface, but some individuals are also very active on trees and shrubs.

It is interesting! The main version that the second name of the snake was received by the reptile due to its frequent habitation in corn fields and near granaries, where the snake preys on mice and rats, is often disputed by another, no less interesting assumption. It is believed that the pattern on the belly of the maize snake strongly resembles grains on the cob of corn.

Range and habitats

Under natural conditions, the maize or spotted climbing snake is found, as a rule, in deciduous forests, as well as on barren soils and near rocky slopes. A very large population lives near farms in almost the entire territory of America, as well as in the Mexican provinces and the Cayman Islands.

Lifestyle of a rat snake

In natural habitats, the reptile lives on the ground for about four months, and then quite often climbs trees or shrubs, rocky ledges and any other hills. For adults, a semi-arboreal lifestyle is characteristic..

Maize snake morphs

The red rat snake is an understandable second name for the snake, which is distinguished not only by unpretentiousness, but also by a variety of colors. Most popular morphs:

Morph "Amelanism"- individuals with a complete absence of black pigment, pink or red eyes and whitish-pink or red coloration;

Morph "Hypomelanism"- individuals with brown, grayish or light brown ventral scales;

Morph "Anerythrysm"- individuals with a complete absence of red pigment, light gray color and a small amount of yellow on the neck and lower abdomen;

Morph "Charcoal"- individuals with a predominant color in the form of neutral gray and brownish shades, as well as with an almost complete absence of yellow pigment;

Morph "Caramel"- individuals with a mutation that suppresses the red pigment and replaces it with yellow shades in coloration;

Morph "Lava"- individuals with a predominantly black pigment, giving an almost uniform dark coloration with small blackish blotches.

The Lavender morph is one of the most interesting mutations, characterized by an almost complete absence of melanin. As a result, the color of the snake can vary from soft lavender to pink and coffee shades.

Food and mining

Under natural conditions, the main activity of maize snakes occurs in the evening and before dawn, when the reptile sees its prey best. Mice and medium-sized rats, bats, as well as small birds and their chicks or eggs become food for the snake.

The main enemies of the snake

The corn snake or red rat snake can be threatened by many large birds, including storks, heron, secretary bird, kite, hawk and eagle. Of the mammals, the greatest danger is represented by jaguars, wild boars, crocodiles, leopards and mongooses.

Keeping maize snake at home

Terrarium device for a snake

Terrariums for the maize snake are selected according to the size and age of the reptile. For newly born snakes and young individuals, you will need a “dwelling”, the volume of which is approximately 40-50 liters. An older and fully formed maize snake should be settled in a terrarium, the volume of which cannot be less than 70-100 liters with dimensions of 70x40x40 cm.

Pine shavings should be used as the main substrate, as well as crushed tree bark, clean gravel or paper. Astroturf artificial turf has proven itself well. Fluorescent lamps are recommended for daylight illumination.

It is also very important to equip the terrarium with a warm corner with a temperature regime of 28-30 ° C and a cold corner with a temperature of 24-26 ° C. At night, the temperature should be at the level of 21-23°C. To maintain humidity in the terrarium, frequent spraying with warm water from a spray bottle is carried out. Inside the terrarium, there should be a fairly large and very stable drinker, as well as a few clean snags and relatively large roots.

Diet, basic diet

Feeding an adult maize snake should be done weekly.. For this purpose, small rodents are used, as well as day old chickens. In order not to injure the snake, it is best to use food that is not live, but frozen and then thawed to room temperature. Along with the food, the red rat snake should be given various vitamin and mineral supplements. Drinking water should be regularly replaced with fresh water.

Precautionary measures

Many reptile lovers are concerned about the questions: is the maize snake poisonous or not, and what side effects can be observed in case of a bite. It should be noted that the snakes of this species are completely non-venomous, therefore they are not capable of harming humans and domestic animals with their bite.

Important! The maize snake can easily be confused with the highly venomous copperhead muzzle, and the main differences are the narrower head, lighter coloration, and the presence of square-shaped spots.

Corn snake health

The result of active inbreeding was the emergence of health problems in most snakes born in captivity, which are manifested in food refusal, sudden and unreasonable death, and a sharp decrease in life expectancy.

Individuals that rub their bodies too often against the lid of the terrarium, as a rule, form abrasions, which must be treated with special antiseptics or antibiotic-based ointments. When properly kept in captivity, life expectancy exceeds ten years..

Breeding a snake at home

For the purpose of home breeding, three-year-old females and two-year-old males can be used. The female should be about a meter long and weigh at least a third of a kilogram. The stimulation of the process is carried out with the help of artificial hibernation, in which the reptile must stay for at least two months. During this period, the temperature in the terrarium is 13°C.

After wintering, around February or March, mating takes place. The gestation period lasts a little over a month, after which it is required to place a special nest box with wet vermiculite in the terrarium. The female lays ten to fifteen eggs. The clutch is carefully removed, and the eggs are grown in an incubator for a couple of months at a constant temperature of 26-29°C.

It is interesting! Newborn snakes have a special tooth with which they are able to get out of the egg on their own.

If the maize snake that was born refuses to eat on its own, then it is necessary to force-feed the reptile. It is important to remember that there is a fairly high mortality rate among newborn red rat snakes.

If the lover of exotic reptiles is interested in the red rat snake, then it is not difficult to buy it at present. Unpretentiousness has made the maize snake very common, so many private breeders are engaged in captive cultivation and sale.

Where to buy a snake, what to look for

corn snake price

Popular in our country, the red rat snake, the price of which often varies depending on color and age, is sold by both private breeders and many zoo nurseries specializing in reptiles. The price is affected by the class to which the skid belongs:

  • S, juvenile;
  • M - teenager;
  • L - from semi-adult to sexually mature;
  • XL - adult, large and sexually mature individual;
  • XXL is a very large individual.

The average price of an adult is five thousand rubles. It is best to purchase a reptile kit that includes a terrarium and basic keeping equipment. The cost of such a kit, as a rule, does not exceed 8-9 thousand rubles.

Country of Origin: USA

Size: up to 2 m

Lifespan: up to 17 years

Photo: VK.COM

Exterior

The rat or marsh snake belongs to the family of already-shaped. It is a slender and fairly long snake. Its body is bright orange or yellow-orange, covered with keeled scales. There are 4 dark stripes along the body. Young snakes are not as bright as adults and have gray spots on their backs. As it grows older and develops its orange color, individuals gradually disappear within 1-2 years. The head of the rat snake is flat and resembles the tip of a spear.

Story

The homeland of the Rat Snake is the USA, it lives in the south of Florida. It inhabits wet prairies with trees and shrubs, subtropical forests and reed beds.

Character

Rat snakes are not poisonous, but quite aggressive. They show aggression when they feel threatened or cornered. Then the snake can bite the owner. Such bites are quite painful and the wound can bleed for a long time. Rat snakes belong to the genus of climbing snakes, therefore they climb trees perfectly and can crawl even on a vertical surface. These snakes are active during the day and at night. In winter, they, like many other cold-blooded animals, hibernate.

Rat snakes are kept in a horizontal type terrarium. For one snake, the terrarium must be no less than 73x40x60, excluding the height of the lamp. To maintain the temperature in the terrarium, you need to place a thermal cord or thermal mat. The optimum temperature during the day is 24 -28 degrees, at night - 18 - 20. In a warm corner, the temperature should be 30 - 32 degrees during the day and 23 - 25 degrees at night. Lighting in the terrarium must be provided in such a way that the daylight hours are 9 - 11 hours. Humidity must be maintained at 75%. The soil in the terrarium is made two-layer. Forest land is usually placed down (it can be mixed with sand or small pebbles). Fallen leaves, moss or pieces of bark are placed on top. You can also use a special mixture for orchids, which contains crushed bark of conifers. Driftwood, medium-sized stones, peeled knotted roots, inverted shards of flower pots, and other similar items are suitable as shelters. Shelters should be located not only on the ground, but also on the branches, which must be placed in the terrarium and well fixed. Snakes need to be provided with conditions so that they can climb. It is also necessary to install a spacious drinker. They feed rat snakes with rodents (mice, rats, hamsters), chickens or quails. It is recommended to feed adults, sexually mature snakes once a week, young ones can be a little more often. In preparation for wintering, it is necessary to gradually reduce the number of meals. During the winter itself, the snake does not need food. Also, in preparation for wintering, you need to gradually reduce the temperature in the terrarium and reduce daylight hours. You can keep rat snakes both singly and in a group.

Corn snake (Pantherophis guttatus)

Corn snake (Pantherophis guttatus)

Article author: Ilya Drozdov

maize snake, spotted climbing snake, red rat snake, corn snake - all these are different names for the same type of snake, the most popular among exotic lovers. Elaphe guttata earlier, now, thanks to the efforts of tireless taxonomists - Pantherophis guttatus.
Two subspecies have been identified, and, one former subspecies, today a separate species that has eaten into the minds and settled as the same maize snake, therefore, we will include it in this description of the species.
Nominative subspecies ( Pantherophis guttatus guttatus).
USA: New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Delaware, Maryland, Virginia, West Virginia, Kentucky, Tennessee, North and South Carolina, Georgia, Florida, Alabama, Mississippi, Louisiana. Central Louisiana, South Arkansas, and East Texas have intergrading populations with subspecies P.emoryi where hybrids are possible.


Corn snake pink ( Pantherophis guttatus rosacea).
USA: Florida Keys, Florida.


Emory maize snake, gray maize snake ( Pantherophis emoryi).
USA: Illinois, Missouri, Nebraska, Kansas, Arkansas, Oklahoma, Texas, Colorado, Utah, New Mexico. Mexico: northeast in 9 states.


Fact: the number of this species in nature is less than the number in terrarium conditions.

Appearance.

It is believed that the maize snake does not have a juvenile (childish) color. However, this is not always the case. The pattern does not change dramatically with age, or even remains exactly the same, but the color sometimes changes beyond recognition.
Newborn corn snake:





The color is very variable, moreover, it is the most diverse species in terms of colors (if we take into account not only natural variations, but also lines fixed in captivity).


Of course, every slightest difference can be recorded in a separate form, which is what the residents of abroad do, thanks to which the morph is already more than 100.
But, you can do without such absurdity and focus on more remarkable differences.

Let's start with the type of drawing.
It happens:
1. Typical

2 Motley
The spots on the sides of the body merge, forming two longitudinal stripes running along the sides of the spine, connected by transverse bridges. A kind of staircase pattern arises, the features of which (the width of the stripes, lintels) can vary.


3. Striped (Stripe)
There are no transverse bridges, so that a continuous light strip runs along the ridge, bounded on the sides by dark ones.




4. Banded
Transverse spots extend to the sides of the body, so that a cross-striped color is obtained with alternating dark and light stripes.


5. Zigzag
In various color variations, there are individuals with a zigzag pattern on the back. Similar to the Aztec (aztec).






There are also individuals with such a weak pattern that they are almost the same color.

More on color differences.

Albino (Albino).


Amelanist.
Without black in color. The main colors are white or flesh. Larger light red spots alternate with areas of dark yellow or orange. The eyes are always red.


Anerythristic.
And they have the opposite - there are no red and yellow tones. There are two types of "anerythristic" mutation. With type A, yellow spots in color are preserved, with type B, they are absent. .


We will stop at this, because you can continue endlessly, but why, if you can just open the Internet and see everything?

Hybridization

Corn snakes cross both with rat snakes (Pantherophis alleghaniensis rossalleni, P. a. quadrivittata, P. a. deckerti, P. obsoletus lindheimeri, P. o. obsoletus) and representatives of the genus Lampropeltis (L. getulus californiae, L. pyromelana, L. triangulum sinaloae, L. t. campbelli, L. t. Hondurensis and others). Moreover, cases of crossing with gopher and pine snakes (Pituophis catenifer, Pituophis melanoleucus) are known.

What is characteristic - the offspring is fertile.


Pituophis c. affinis x Elaphe guttata


E. guttata x Lampropeltis t. sinaloae

Biotope and activity.

In nature, it lives in coniferous and deciduous forests, near rivers, swamps, and is also found in canyons, caves, parks, farms, and wherever they are not found ... In other words, they are found almost everywhere.
It is not limited to the surface of the earth alone, it also climbs trees and shrubs. Activity is mostly nocturnal. Prefers to hunt on the surface of the earth.
In conditions of captivity on the hands behaves quite actively. The terrarium is also active. Again, does not refuse to climb the branches.

Dimensions.

Newborns are 20-24 cm long.
Approximate possible growth rates up to 1.5-2 years - about 4-5 cm per month.
Adults are usually 130-150 cm long. Although, there are both individual dwarfs (80 cm or less) and giants (180 cm or more).
A “pulled snake” is a snake that has been constantly underfed and does not grow to its full potential due to a lack of nutrients. However, what is interesting is that even having reached the age of two years, the maize snake (as a special case), with proper feeding, can catch up and, moreover, overtake peers.

Nutrition.

The maize snake prefers small mammals. In captivity, it consumes both small rodents and medium-sized birds with pleasure, cases of cannibalism are known (apparently, it was an accident among young animals).
Not all newborns start feeding on their own right away. So feeding young animals can be some difficulty. However, after a certain duration of a hunger strike or several forced feedings (sometimes single, in some cases multiple) they begin to eat on their own. But, fortunately, this does not happen with all babies.
Metabolism in maize snakes is characteristic of most colubrids, therefore, three days after eating, most of the result of the work of the gastrointestinal tract on KO (food object) remains at the bottom of the terrarium or in the drinker. Complete digestion of KO takes from 5 days to about a week and a half, depending on the age of the snake and the ambient temperature.
The physical growth rate of the snake depends on the frequency of feeding and the size of the KO. According to its physiological abilities, the maize snake can swallow relatively large KOs. For example, very large specimens can swallow an adult rat.
Giving any specific advice on the frequency of feeding and the size of the KO is difficult, and is it necessary? In practice, this is a purely individual matter. Who cares, who wants to achieve what ...
Well, if for approximate, possibly controversial landmarks, then:
Young, up to 6-9 months. should be fed once every 3-5 days with a small mouse (the head of a rodent is approximately equal to the head of a snake, it can be a little larger (first naked, then pubescent, runners, and finally teenagers));
Adolescents under 1.5 years of age should be fed every 7-10 days with an appropriately sized rodent (approximately a juvenile mouse);
After 1.5 years, once every 10-15 days, adult mice, 2-3 pieces.
But again, these are just generalizations. For commercial (economical) purposes, juveniles can also be fed once every 1-2 weeks with one naked fish. And especially caring lovers can also feed an adult snake every 5-7 days with large rats, several at a time. Here it is more correct not to listen to advice, but to understand on your own.
Young individuals, up to 9-12 months old, can be fed quite. Obesity threatens adults. Therefore, when the snake reaches the age of two and its almost maximum size, it is important to feed the snake measuredly.
In general, feeding maize snakes is not difficult. They are ready almost always and almost everything that they are offered. Again, exceptions are possible due to seasonal events, the health of the animal, its character or improper conditions of detention.
Live, pre-killed, defrosted KOs are suitable for food. Live ones are the best option, as the predator will be able to use his skills, and KO is still naturally steamy.
In principle, the same mouse contains a set of vitamins, calcium, but with the mutual consent of the parties (you and the snake), you can periodically add specialized vitamins, calcium powders.
The most common and frequent FB is the laboratory mouse. This is justified by its easy accessibility, ease of digestion. It is also a decent and balanced food. Rat skin is digested a little worse. The rat is considered a slightly more dietary KO. Actually, the above two types of rodents usually form the basis of the diet. Variety, if desired, can be introduced through periodic feeding, for example: chickens, quails, mastomuses, gerbils.
It is worth noting the undesirability of feeding the snake during molting.

Molt.

“Why does this worm have a cloudy color and eyes like from a horror movie?”
Moulting occurs regularly, with a frequency depending on the age of the snake. This is how the snake renews its skin.
The snake grows, the skin does not. What to do? That's right, form a new skin, remove the old one.
It all starts with a slight, slightly noticeable change in tones, then the color becomes cloudy, remains in this form for some time, then the color returns, and after a while the snake begins to actively crawl around the terrarium, trying to catch on something with the corner of its mouth that could potentially help pull it off. creep out. That is, the old skin is first removed from the corner of the mouth, then from the head, and then the “stocking”, turning inside out, peels off from the entire body.
If the snake is healthy, the humidity of the environment is normal and there are no injuries on the body, the crawl will be whole and beautiful. This is a good indicator.
In young individuals, the entire molting process can take less than a week, in adults it can last more than two weeks. Shedding frequency: almost once every two weeks in juveniles and less than once a month in adults.
The frequency of molting depends on the growth rate of the snake. The snake may shed more often due to damage to the scales, mites and other adverse influences.
At the time of molting, tactile contact with snakes should be abandoned. It is better not to disturb them at all once again, and even more so during molting.
Sometimes the crawl out turns out to be completely torn into small pieces, the snake shed with difficulty. This may be the result of a lack of vitamins or moisture (the most common causes). Humidity can be raised by daily spraying. If the skin is removed with great difficulty, you can use bathing in a cuvette or bath, or another dimensional suitable container at a temperature of about 25 gr. Within approximately 10-30 minutes.

Wintering.

The goal of any adequate terrariumist is to create the conditions necessary and sufficient for the maintenance and breeding of the species.
For the maize snake, a very strong and plastic snake, the absence of wintering is not a factor leading to irreversible consequences.
However, it is wintering that allows the body to rest, it is wintering that synchronizes snakes before mating, it is she who sometimes awakens the appetite.
This process, like winter, is long. We gradually reduce daylight hours, with a parallel decrease to room temperature (within 1.5-2 weeks). Then we either leave it to winter at room temperature (mild wintering), or transplant it into a different volume (convenient for wintering) and continue lowering the temperature to +14 ... +19 degrees. Lower, extreme temperatures are also possible, up to + 5 ... + 9 gr. The best of the indicated range for the maize snake is considered to be the temp. 14-15 gr.

.... The conclusion from wintering is a gradual increase in temperatures. Wintering can last from one to two, or even three months.
How to implement the above is the problem of each individual person who has decided on this act.
Someone finds a cool place near the window, someone in the vegetable compartment of the refrigerator, someone in modern incubators.
Usually, the snakes are placed in rag bags, supplying with moss or paper towels (for waterproofing, because the snake can defecate in the winter). Water is offered periodically. Although, some keepers leave the snakes alone and do not stick water under the nose of a sleeping snake. Others put small drinkers for the entire wintering process. Again, it's purely individual.
Content
Since the methods of verbal communication, or other method of accurate understanding with snakes are not developed, no one can tell what they want and how they want. One thing is clear - in the wild, untouched nature, they would be better off.
But, if we can’t do anything with the first, and we understand the second, but we still keep it in captivity, one way or another, motivating our actions, then we have to decide how to make the snake feel good or at least tolerable .
How many people, so many opinions. Accordingly, there are a huge number of content options. In this regard, we will not consider the minimum required dimensions of a dwelling and other controversial positions. Here are just a few recommended dry numbers.

Daytime: 26-28 background, warm-up point 30-32.
Night: 23-25 ​​(can be until 20-21).
Humidity: 50-60%.

And some possibly helpful tips.
Snakes themselves choose the conditions that are convenient for them, if given the opportunity.
So, if a temperature difference is provided in the terrarium, then the snake itself will be able to choose when to cool down, and when to get closer in the lamp (or other heating device) in order to get warm and warm up. Similarly, if you place a tray of damp moss in the terrarium, moisture will be possible, which can be very useful during molting.
The snake may refrain from excessive bathing due to unsuitable temperatures. You are unlikely to want to climb into boiling water, as well as ice water, once again.
If there is a thermal cord in the terrarium, you can put a drinking bowl on it, then the humidity will be higher, and if you don’t go overboard with the temperature, then the snake may be more comfortable bathing.
Given the plasticity of this species, it is theoretically possible to successfully keep at room humidity.
UV is not required, though not objectionable to the snake. Useful for females during pregnancy. As an alternative to UV lamps, you can take the snake out into the natural sun in the summer.
Shelters are not required, but give the snake the opportunity to habitually hide and feel at ease. Although, individuals who grew up without grottoes / shelters from childhood, do not complex at all without them.
As a substrate, you can use: bark, foliage, napkins, mulch, peat, sawdust, rug.
Branches for climbing will not interfere, if you are not stingy with the place and there is where to place them.
Breeding
Males reach sexual maturity earlier than females, usually at the age of two years, although earlier matings are known, at the age of about a year. Females mature by 2-3 years, exclusively - a little earlier.
It is not recommended to mate too young individuals. This can be bad for the health of both producers and brood, if any. Early matings often produce fat clutches.
Sexually mature individuals hibernate, feed, plant. After mating, after 1.5-2 months, females lay eggs. The masonry is removed and placed in an incubator at a temperature of 27-29°C. The number of eggs in a clutch is from 6 to 35 pieces. After 55-75 days, babies hatch from the eggs, which begin to feed after the first molt. In a terrarium, repeated clutches were achieved, but their fertility requires repeated mating; for this, males and females are additionally stimulated. In nature, repeated clutches were not observed.

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